Disclaimer: I (CoolAid) as well as LS2GTO.com (AutoForums) will NOT be held responsible for nor claim responsibility for damage to a vehicle or loss of any warranty coverage from members or guests that use this GUIDE. Use this How To as a guide and reference ONLY. Do not directly copy numbers or values into your tune from this write-up without knowing what you are changing first! That being said, every vehicle is different. As such, every driver is also different. Expectations of drivability or performance will VARY so once again, use this write-up as a GUIDE and adjust your tables and tune to suit YOU and your goals/expectations.
The software I will use in this write-up is HP Tuners. Excellent product and resident board sponsor (http://www.hptuners.com). I'll be using 2.23 BETA for this write up which isn't generally available for the mass public yet.
The current stable release listed on the site is 2.22, so you may see some tables or variables in my pics that don't completely match up with yours if you using 2.22. The general idea remains the same, however. TCC apply/release speed is TCC apply/release speed across all platforms so this guide can be used to help with EFI Live as well. The tunes I will be comparing in this guide are my bone stock 2006 A4 file and my current modified file.
My trans specs:
-4L65E fully built by Top Gear Motorsports.
-Stall: 4,200 billet 254mm (9 3/4'') single disk built by Circle D Specialties.
A little info to set the pace of this thread: My car is not a DD. I am going to use my tune/car as a reference in this thread and you may see some settings that are too harsh for a DD or "occasional" fun car. With me performance and reliability come first, ride/shift comfort is a very distant afterthought. That's what crappy beaters with good MPG are for. Anyway, let's continue.
First and foremost:
SAVE A COPY OF YOUR STOCK/CURRENT TUNE! Let's make sure we have a backup tune if need be. I recommend emailing it to yourself just in case your laptop's hard drive crashes so you'll be able to access the file. I email all-important tunes to my various emails for backup. The files are small and it's easy and free insurance. Always name your tunes something different so you can differentiate them. I also like to create text files containing any changes I've made to the tunes naming the text file the same as the tune. I.E. Stock1.0.hpt for the tune and Stock1.0.txt for the notepad txt file that you mark down what you've changed. HPT has a history, but nothing is more detailed than your own personal account of things.
Speedometer Check:
In this section, we make sure the speedo is in check. Most of the trans settings rely on MPH input in order to function so we need to make sure your current rear tire height is on par with reality. First, go to your tire manufactures website and notate the exact height of the tire you use. For me, this is a Nitto 555R 275/45/17 DR that is 25.63''. So we need to click the "Speedo" button on the toolbar and enter the correct tire size into the box, the correct rear-end gear ratio into the box (stock is 3.46), and click "Commit". This will help to dial in your speed correctly so that your MPH values reflect real-world numbers.
Shift Point Tuning:
In this section, we will deal with shift point tuning. This can be very hit-and-miss. Just because you set a certain value does not guarantee that the trans will shift at those EXACT values. It usually varies by a hundred or so RPM and an MPH or two. The goal here is trial and error (without going to jail trying to dial it in!). Set it, test it. If it's fine then great. If not, adjust accordingly to your taste.
First off the A4 needs to satisfy TWO variables before the shift is made. 1) RPM 2) MPH. Let's say you have a 1>2 (meaning 1st to 2nd gear shift) set at 6,400 RPM and 40MPH. When the engine gets to 6,400 RPM then trans will generally wait until it hits 40MPH before commanding the shift and vice versa. You'll want to give yourself a smidgen of room here since it takes time for solenoids to activate, springs to move, fluid to flow...etc.
If you want out at 6,500 at 40MPH try setting it at 6,350 and 37MPH, it might just bang out right where you need it. If not, readjust. A common mistake people make in this area is just addressing the WOT shift points.
It is important to increase/decrease the part throttle values by the same % as the WOT values.
Computers can be finicky and if everything isn't set up right you may just find yourself banging the limiter searching for that perfect shift and all the while the problem is in the part throttle tables.
Something to use that usually gives good luck in predicting where to set shift RPM so it correlates with MPH is the VCM scanner. First, do a few log runs with the car with the VCM Scanner. Full pulls into 3rd (don't go to jail! legal areas only! Mexico seems to be a nice place to get away with this stuff ㊙ ). Note where your trans is shifting out at: (This pic is from a modified tune with built trans and DRs, not stock)
There you see in first gear I'm recording 6,300~ish RPM at 42~ish MPH. If you have to, hold a gear up to your target RPM so it records the MPH at that speed. I.E. If you want to check MPH at 6,500 and you have a tune that shifts you out at 6,200 and you leave it in D, it will punch out before you get to your target. Adjust your engine side rev limiter accordingly and hold a gear out manually if you have to.
Now let's apply our new found info to the tune. Click on the "Trans" tab on the toolbar and under the "Auto Shift Speed" tab find "Full Throttle Shift Speed Normal" and click the "Normal" tab and you'll see something like this (stock file in this pic):
I like to set the MPH low, and let the RPM be the trigger spot for the shift and you'll see this in my tune. Meaning, I like to get the MPH variable satisfied so that the TCM just waits for the RPM to hit and then bang (remember, 2 variables are needed, RPM and MPH) A good 4-5 or so below actual MPH is a good buffer for MPH variables. Don't set it too far off though. If it's too far off it may miss the shift, i.e., if you have the MPH set at 70 and the shift should occur at 86 it's too much of a discrepancy for the TCM to decipher. Try to keep it close to +/- 4 or 5MPH max.
Remember it probably won't hit the dead nuts spot on either RPM or MPH due to the things I mentioned before (internal part actuation...etc). Now, let's change that variable to reflect what we need. We will need to do this in "Normal" and "Performance" or "Pattern B" (if using 2.23 Beta).
Here you see I've adjusted the MPH UP 1MPH in 1st (didn't need much) and 9MPH in the second and so on. You can either highlight the box you want to change and enter the number in the box in the upper corner of the window and hit the = button or just type the number into the variable box once selected.
Also, we need to adjust the downshift MPH by the same percentage that we adjusted the upshift MPH. Although, the upshift MPH has to remain higher than the downshift MPH. You'll see how I modified those variables as well. Notice I added about 2-3MPH to each upshift point except for the 3>2 downshift. This is where further custom tweaking comes in.
For me, I don't want my trans downshifting into 2nd gear at 79 MPH if I go WOT or manually pull down because I feel it is too close to the shift-out point and doesn't want the engine screaming for a second before it shifts. It generally feels like it's holding back and slower when the downshift is really close to where the upshift is. I'd rather just stay in the gear I'm in (this case 3rd) and continue to climb. Adjust to your tastes.
Now we need to go into "Part Throttle Shift Normal" to adjust a few things:
Now we need to copy over the 100 (WOT) values from the Full Throttle Shift Speed area to the Part Throttle Shift Normal. In my readings, this isn't 100% mandatory, but many good tuners like to make them match up so the TCM doesn't have any variance issues and I like to follow suit with that idea so here goes:
Now that we have that squared away it's time to tackle RPM. This one is pretty straightforward forward and if you've set up your MPH correctly and have given it a 4-5MPH buffer before actual you should be able to get your RPMs to hit pretty close. If not, like anything else, adjust accordingly. Let's start off by opening the "Full Throttle Shift RPM Normal", "Normal" tab, and the "Performance" or "Pattern B" (if using 2.23 Beta) tab as well:
Now adjust the values to your liking:
Now I usually punch out first at around 6,300 and 2nd and 3rd at around 6,450-6,500. This is where that variance stuff comes in. Since I know I'll have a small bit of time before the actual shift, since I want the 2nd and 3rd out at 6,500 I've set them to punch in the tune at 6,300. This mixed with my MPH settings has worked for me. You will need to test and tune them to your flavor. That pretty much wraps it up as far as shift point tuning. If I've left anything out of this section feel free to comment and I will add it in.
Shift Pressures:
As far as shift pressures go I leave them at stock levels and so do many of the major builders/tuners out there. The stock levels in the GTO are max @ 90psi and are plenty fine for quick shifts.
The correct way to increase shift pressures is mechanical with a shift kit. The kit will include pieces that are built to handle the increased pressure such as different springs and metal parts that replace plastic parts I.E. the boost valve. Beyond this people who boost up the pressure through the tune are risking mechanical failure for no great reason. If torque management is gone 90psi is plenty of pressure even in a stock trans to make a quick shift.
Remember it's not about how HARD the trans shifts, it's about how QUICK it does it.
That old-school nonsense about a trans that slams the tires in every gear and hits hard on shifts is just that. Nonsense. My trans is very smooth and while it definitely hits and lets you know it's there, its emphasis is on speed rather than force.
The software I will use in this write-up is HP Tuners. Excellent product and resident board sponsor (http://www.hptuners.com). I'll be using 2.23 BETA for this write up which isn't generally available for the mass public yet.
The current stable release listed on the site is 2.22, so you may see some tables or variables in my pics that don't completely match up with yours if you using 2.22. The general idea remains the same, however. TCC apply/release speed is TCC apply/release speed across all platforms so this guide can be used to help with EFI Live as well. The tunes I will be comparing in this guide are my bone stock 2006 A4 file and my current modified file.
My trans specs:
-4L65E fully built by Top Gear Motorsports.
-Stall: 4,200 billet 254mm (9 3/4'') single disk built by Circle D Specialties.
A little info to set the pace of this thread: My car is not a DD. I am going to use my tune/car as a reference in this thread and you may see some settings that are too harsh for a DD or "occasional" fun car. With me performance and reliability come first, ride/shift comfort is a very distant afterthought. That's what crappy beaters with good MPG are for. Anyway, let's continue.
First and foremost:
SAVE A COPY OF YOUR STOCK/CURRENT TUNE! Let's make sure we have a backup tune if need be. I recommend emailing it to yourself just in case your laptop's hard drive crashes so you'll be able to access the file. I email all-important tunes to my various emails for backup. The files are small and it's easy and free insurance. Always name your tunes something different so you can differentiate them. I also like to create text files containing any changes I've made to the tunes naming the text file the same as the tune. I.E. Stock1.0.hpt for the tune and Stock1.0.txt for the notepad txt file that you mark down what you've changed. HPT has a history, but nothing is more detailed than your own personal account of things.
Speedometer Check:
In this section, we make sure the speedo is in check. Most of the trans settings rely on MPH input in order to function so we need to make sure your current rear tire height is on par with reality. First, go to your tire manufactures website and notate the exact height of the tire you use. For me, this is a Nitto 555R 275/45/17 DR that is 25.63''. So we need to click the "Speedo" button on the toolbar and enter the correct tire size into the box, the correct rear-end gear ratio into the box (stock is 3.46), and click "Commit". This will help to dial in your speed correctly so that your MPH values reflect real-world numbers.
Shift Point Tuning:
In this section, we will deal with shift point tuning. This can be very hit-and-miss. Just because you set a certain value does not guarantee that the trans will shift at those EXACT values. It usually varies by a hundred or so RPM and an MPH or two. The goal here is trial and error (without going to jail trying to dial it in!). Set it, test it. If it's fine then great. If not, adjust accordingly to your taste.
First off the A4 needs to satisfy TWO variables before the shift is made. 1) RPM 2) MPH. Let's say you have a 1>2 (meaning 1st to 2nd gear shift) set at 6,400 RPM and 40MPH. When the engine gets to 6,400 RPM then trans will generally wait until it hits 40MPH before commanding the shift and vice versa. You'll want to give yourself a smidgen of room here since it takes time for solenoids to activate, springs to move, fluid to flow...etc.
If you want out at 6,500 at 40MPH try setting it at 6,350 and 37MPH, it might just bang out right where you need it. If not, readjust. A common mistake people make in this area is just addressing the WOT shift points.
It is important to increase/decrease the part throttle values by the same % as the WOT values.
Computers can be finicky and if everything isn't set up right you may just find yourself banging the limiter searching for that perfect shift and all the while the problem is in the part throttle tables.
Something to use that usually gives good luck in predicting where to set shift RPM so it correlates with MPH is the VCM scanner. First, do a few log runs with the car with the VCM Scanner. Full pulls into 3rd (don't go to jail! legal areas only! Mexico seems to be a nice place to get away with this stuff ㊙ ). Note where your trans is shifting out at: (This pic is from a modified tune with built trans and DRs, not stock)
There you see in first gear I'm recording 6,300~ish RPM at 42~ish MPH. If you have to, hold a gear up to your target RPM so it records the MPH at that speed. I.E. If you want to check MPH at 6,500 and you have a tune that shifts you out at 6,200 and you leave it in D, it will punch out before you get to your target. Adjust your engine side rev limiter accordingly and hold a gear out manually if you have to.
Now let's apply our new found info to the tune. Click on the "Trans" tab on the toolbar and under the "Auto Shift Speed" tab find "Full Throttle Shift Speed Normal" and click the "Normal" tab and you'll see something like this (stock file in this pic):
I like to set the MPH low, and let the RPM be the trigger spot for the shift and you'll see this in my tune. Meaning, I like to get the MPH variable satisfied so that the TCM just waits for the RPM to hit and then bang (remember, 2 variables are needed, RPM and MPH) A good 4-5 or so below actual MPH is a good buffer for MPH variables. Don't set it too far off though. If it's too far off it may miss the shift, i.e., if you have the MPH set at 70 and the shift should occur at 86 it's too much of a discrepancy for the TCM to decipher. Try to keep it close to +/- 4 or 5MPH max.
Remember it probably won't hit the dead nuts spot on either RPM or MPH due to the things I mentioned before (internal part actuation...etc). Now, let's change that variable to reflect what we need. We will need to do this in "Normal" and "Performance" or "Pattern B" (if using 2.23 Beta).
Here you see I've adjusted the MPH UP 1MPH in 1st (didn't need much) and 9MPH in the second and so on. You can either highlight the box you want to change and enter the number in the box in the upper corner of the window and hit the = button or just type the number into the variable box once selected.
Also, we need to adjust the downshift MPH by the same percentage that we adjusted the upshift MPH. Although, the upshift MPH has to remain higher than the downshift MPH. You'll see how I modified those variables as well. Notice I added about 2-3MPH to each upshift point except for the 3>2 downshift. This is where further custom tweaking comes in.
For me, I don't want my trans downshifting into 2nd gear at 79 MPH if I go WOT or manually pull down because I feel it is too close to the shift-out point and doesn't want the engine screaming for a second before it shifts. It generally feels like it's holding back and slower when the downshift is really close to where the upshift is. I'd rather just stay in the gear I'm in (this case 3rd) and continue to climb. Adjust to your tastes.
Now we need to go into "Part Throttle Shift Normal" to adjust a few things:
Now we need to copy over the 100 (WOT) values from the Full Throttle Shift Speed area to the Part Throttle Shift Normal. In my readings, this isn't 100% mandatory, but many good tuners like to make them match up so the TCM doesn't have any variance issues and I like to follow suit with that idea so here goes:
Now that we have that squared away it's time to tackle RPM. This one is pretty straightforward forward and if you've set up your MPH correctly and have given it a 4-5MPH buffer before actual you should be able to get your RPMs to hit pretty close. If not, like anything else, adjust accordingly. Let's start off by opening the "Full Throttle Shift RPM Normal", "Normal" tab, and the "Performance" or "Pattern B" (if using 2.23 Beta) tab as well:
Now adjust the values to your liking:
Now I usually punch out first at around 6,300 and 2nd and 3rd at around 6,450-6,500. This is where that variance stuff comes in. Since I know I'll have a small bit of time before the actual shift, since I want the 2nd and 3rd out at 6,500 I've set them to punch in the tune at 6,300. This mixed with my MPH settings has worked for me. You will need to test and tune them to your flavor. That pretty much wraps it up as far as shift point tuning. If I've left anything out of this section feel free to comment and I will add it in.
Shift Pressures:
As far as shift pressures go I leave them at stock levels and so do many of the major builders/tuners out there. The stock levels in the GTO are max @ 90psi and are plenty fine for quick shifts.
The correct way to increase shift pressures is mechanical with a shift kit. The kit will include pieces that are built to handle the increased pressure such as different springs and metal parts that replace plastic parts I.E. the boost valve. Beyond this people who boost up the pressure through the tune are risking mechanical failure for no great reason. If torque management is gone 90psi is plenty of pressure even in a stock trans to make a quick shift.
Remember it's not about how HARD the trans shifts, it's about how QUICK it does it.
That old-school nonsense about a trans that slams the tires in every gear and hits hard on shifts is just that. Nonsense. My trans is very smooth and while it definitely hits and lets you know it's there, its emphasis is on speed rather than force.