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Old 02-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #1
BigNateGTO
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car cranks, then shuts off?

Well Ive had my GTO for about a year and a half now, and this has started happening. Ill turn the key over all the way and it will start up for about a second, then shut off.

Its not like it happens every day, but it happens often enough for me to now get annoyed by it. Is there something wrong? And if so, what?

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:09 AM   #2
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Need a list of modifications.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:27 AM   #3
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None at all. Its completely stock.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:36 AM   #4
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Fuel pump?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:38 AM   #5
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Go out and just click the key over and let go don't hold it and tell me what happens.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005YellowGTO...View Post
Go out and just click the key over and let go don't hold it and tell me what happens.

Ok, So the first time I did it, it cranked right up. Then I turned it off, then did it again, but this time it didn't crank. After that first time, while applying the same pressure to the click, it didn't crank again like it did the first time.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #7
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You have to turn it all the way off then click it, what we were checking on was the ignition and computer. The ignition is a CAN/bus system so if working properly it will "start itself" so to speak. Now it is pointing to the fuel system like said above. when you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump priming?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #8
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Clean/wipe off the little metal nub on your key fob and the metal ring around your ignition cylinder. It's your theft deterent not reading your key properly.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87LC2...View Post
Clean/wipe off the little metal nub on your key fob and the metal ring around your ignition cylinder. It's your theft deterent not reading your key properly.

Well a while back I was at a gas station and it completely locked up on me. Like I couldn't turn the ignition at all. So when That happened I had to replace the whole ignition cylinder I think. But Like when I'm driving and I accelerate, then let off the gas I can hear this like winding noise that goes on for about 3 seconds. Its done that since I got it also.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:05 AM   #10
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When you let of the gas the car will go into a fuel conservation mode that is probably the fuel pump winding down. I am leaning towards the fuel pump. Get a test guage at autozone and test your fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005YellowGTO...View Post
When you let of the gas the car will go into a fuel conservation mode that is probably the fuel pump winding down. I am leaning towards the fuel pump. Get a test guage at autozone and test your fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.

So thats not a bad thing then. When I would Rev the engine it would also do the winding sound. Do you think my fuel pump is going out?
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:30 AM   #12
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looks quite possible. how many miles?
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87LC2...View Post
Clean/wipe off the little metal nub on your key fob and the metal ring around your ignition cylinder. It's your theft deterent not reading your key properly.

^^This. This can also happen if you press (purposely or not) the UNLOCK button while the key fob is too far from the car for it to receive the message.

The next time it happens, turn the key off, REMOVE THE KEY from the ignition, wait 5 seconds, insert the key and start it again. I'd bet it will start and run just fine on the 2nd attempt. It is important to completely remove the key from the ignition before trying again.

If you press the UNLOCK button while too far from the car, the check digit logic between the fob and the car get out of sync. When you try to start it the first time it thinks you are attemping to steal it using a foreign key fob and the theft deterent shuts off the fuel supply. By removing the key and resetting the system, the key and the car get back in sync and things will then work fine.

Let me guess, you keep your key in your pocket with lots of change and/or other keys or other stuff? That UNLOCK button can get pressed each time you bend over or stuff in your pocket sloshes around.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:01 AM   #14
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I just went threw all of this. Im aftermarket though and thats why I had my problem but it had to do with the map sensor connection. Maybe yours came loose or something.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:02 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-Tripower...View Post
^^This. This can also happen if you press (purposely or not) the UNLOCK button while the key fob is too far from the car for it to receive the message.

The next time it happens, turn the key off, REMOVE THE KEY from the ignition, wait 5 seconds, insert the key and start it again. I'd bet it will start and run just fine on the 2nd attempt. It is important to completely remove the key from the ignition before trying again.

If you press the UNLOCK button while too far from the car, the check digit logic between the fob and the car get out of sync. When you try to start it the first time it thinks you are attemping to steal it using a foreign key fob and the theft deterent shuts off the fuel supply. By removing the key and resetting the system, the key and the car get back in sync and things will then work fine.

Let me guess, you keep your key in your pocket with lots of change and/or other keys or other stuff? That UNLOCK button can get pressed each time you bend over or stuff in your pocket sloshes around.

Dang seriously? This might be my problem then. Thats crazy. I really appreciate that information.

And I have 42k on the GTO.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:28 AM   #16
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If the remote gets out of sync with the car due to the buttons being pressed while out of range, it won't work to unlock the car but putting the key in the ignition and turning it on will be enough to resync it and the car will start. So that's not the issue.
Does the remote unlock/lock the car properly even though it starts then stalls? If so the remote itself is ok but there may be a problem between the ignition and PCM. As suggested in post #8, make sure the contact nub on the remote, the metal key itself and the metal ring around the ignition are clean, and also make sure the ring has its normal spring pressure to hold it against the nub. If you have a second key/remote, try starting the car with it and see if the same thing happens.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox Mulder...View Post
If the remote gets out of sync with the car due to the buttons being pressed while out of range, it won't work to unlock the car but putting the key in the ignition and turning it on will be enough to resync it and the car will start. So that's not the issue.
Does the remote unlock/lock the car properly even though it starts then stalls? If so the remote itself is ok but there may be a problem between the ignition and PCM. As suggested in post #8, make sure the contact nub on the remote, the metal key itself and the metal ring around the ignition are clean, and also make sure the ring has its normal spring pressure to hold it against the nub. If you have a second key/remote, try starting the car with it and see if the same thing happens.

Yea the remote works fine. I mean it doesn't work from a mile away, but it gets the job done. I do have a second key so Ill use that for a while and see what happens.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:09 PM   #18
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The knucklehead who put my car back together before I bought it routed the crank sensor around the exhaust manifold and zip tied it to the frame rail. Well, the sensor wire was melting and shorted to the manifold, causing this exact problem. Check the crank sensor wires/connector. . .
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:01 PM   #19
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I have the same problem in my car. Started doing it about 4 months ago...
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:20 AM   #20
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does it say fuel gauge error...? it could be a bad bcm bad bcm fuse it could also be the alarm system shutting down the fuel pump thinking its being stolen.... sometimes the electrical system on these cars freak out sometimes you needa give it a few days lol
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:22 AM   #21
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Mine was doing this too a while back. Turn on for a second then turn off.
I checked for these two things.

1. Clutch switch not making contact when you press it in during startup? (mine was but I replaced anyways)
and then
I just decided to follow the ignition key relearn process. I tried to find the process on the internet again, but this is all I could find. there may be other steps. I can't recall. but by doing both of these procedures, my car has worked ever since.

Like i said, search to see if these are all the steps.

Re-Programming the key fob transmitter to your car ignition.
2. Turn ignition ON with a valid key.
3. Leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp once.
4. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirp and ON again within 5 seconds. If the timing expires for this step, the sequence will be cancelled.
5. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp twice.
6. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirps and ON again within 5 seconds.
7. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes, after 10 minutes the car horn will chirp three times. During the three horn chirps the BCM and PIM are being linked.
8. Turn the ignition OFF, and wait 5 seconds.
9. Turn the ignition ON and leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes.
10. Turn the ignition OFF, and wait 5 seconds.
11. Turn the ignition ON and leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes.
12. Turn the ignition OFF, and wait 5 seconds.
13. Turn the ignition ON and leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes.
14. The ECM is now ready to relearn the password from the PIM on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
15. Turn the ignition ON. Linking is now completed.
16. Turn the ignition to crank and run engine at idle speed, to confirm the linking procedure has been successful.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:13 AM   #22
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^
You wasted your time and money replacing the clutch switch. All it does is prevent the engine from cranking unless the pedal is depressed, it does nothing once the engine starts.
The fob cannot be reprogrammed, this can only be done once with a new one that has never been programmed before. They CAN be re-synced if they lose synchronization with the car (usually from the buttons being pressed while out of range), but all this requires is to put the key in the ignition and turn it to "run".
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:39 AM   #23
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I had this problem occasionally cleaned the nub, and fixed the BCM, worked and kept working for months until I sold it.
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