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Old 05-12-2012, 10:32 PM   #1
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I'm only moderately insane my stupid loud and stupid low car

I have started build logs of my stereo on a bunch of other sites and I guess I should include the first forum I ever joined and the one for cars like mine

So lets get started...

What the car currently has installed:

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P3300BT
Speakers: Stock
Amps: stock, Pioneer GM-D7500M
deadening: Second Skin Alpha Damp on trunk lid and rear shelf
Subs: none (I had a type R 15 in the trunk for a long time)

What I currently have ready to install:

30 square feet more of Damplifier Pro

Fi SP4 15

Crescendo BC3500D

Second Skin Damplifier Pro door kit



2 Deka 8A31s. This is the location I am planning to make brackets to hold the batteries in place. 35 inches in between which is the same width I have been using for my box width.



60' of Bullz 1/0 wire (yes I know bullz isn't that good I will be replacing it eventually)



stinger voltage meter (blue leds)



100' of 10 gauge speaker wire



Zapco Studio 100



Pioneer D-series 6.75" component set (so far the biggest pita of this build)



What I currently have on order:

DDM 35 watt 6000k hids

What I plan to order/buy soon:

nothing

other plans:
Big 3 upgrade
remove spoiler

eventual plans:
H.I.D. and led exterior light conversion (partially started)
Upgraded Alarm w/ 2 way paging
re-tint windows (5% on sides and rear 55% on windshield)
replace 1/0 wire with 2/0 for big 3 and battery connections
upgraded alternator
more rear batteries
more sound deadening: (floor, rear quarter panels, and roof)
Upgraded suspension (either drag springs and new shocks or coilovers)
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #2
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You're gonna go deaf
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:36 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICANHAZGTO??...View Post
You're gonna go deaf

I mean running open longtubes could too...

And either way I'll have fun doing it
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:42 AM   #4
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So your Gunna run crappy ass 0 Gauge wire then new wire it again? Why run it to start just go spend the money and get welding power cable and do it right the first time. Every stereo build I've done, running the 0 gauge is the biggest pain out of all that lol
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:53 AM   #5
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But I'm not a wiring guy by any means I just hate doing that
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:57 AM   #6
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:27 AM   #7
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1/0, for the most part, is 1/0. And despite what the knowledge base states, wire is wire so long as there is no voltage drop from one end to the other during a high demand period. HAVING SAID THAT - buy the BIGGEST gauge you can afford, NOT the biggest brand name. Case in point Monster cable: IMPO (in my professional opinion) the stuff is GARBAGE, based on its cost vs performance. The stuff is over hyped, heavily over insulated so as to LOOK bigger, pain in the ass wire regardless of use. As far as noise rejection, its just about on par with most of the generics you can buy at Wallyworld. I have used their RCAs and they suck compared to the top end offerings from Stinger, Streetwires, etc. Fortunately if you install the RCAs properly, noise reduction properties are irrelevant.

IF you are going to blow a ton of $$ on wire, go with kicker's wire for one reason alone: flexibility. 1/0 kicker wire will make 4ga welding wire (or any other brand 4ga) seem like a solid ROD of steel. Seriously, their 1/0 is literally like an overcooked piece of spahgetti (sp?).

Back on topic, in the 4Runner I have a total of 4 runs of 1/0 to the rear battery (my competition class only allows 2 batteries total) and from the rear battery 8 runs of the stuff to the amps. I saw absolutely ZERO gain on my TermLab.usb meter going from 2 runs to 4 between the two batteries. (Keep in mind that you cannot discern a difference of 1dB, 2dB is barely discernable if you are listening for a change, and the fact that my meter is accurate to 1/100 of a dB.)

So the point of the last few paragraphs? Run what you have and see if there is a voltage difference from the front battery to the rear battery during a high demand period, such as a heavy bass tone. If no, then you are fine. You will see voltage drop, which is normal, but the whole system should drop the same amount and in unison. Only when it doesn't is when you will need more wire. For instance, I had 4 Zapco 9.0's powering 2 DD 9915s, and when I would burp it for testing or competition, the voltage would drop from 12.9v to about 10.2v or so. However it was the same regardless of where you measured the voltage at - front battery, rear battery, or at any of the 4 amplifiers.

Also the additional batteries will place a pretty hefty load on your alternator. If you quad out for an extended period of time, say 5 minutes, you'll have likely pulled out most of the reserve capacity (or whatever the correct term is) from the batteries, and you'll notice your voltage keeps dipping lower and lower with the same bass hits. When that happens, it is time to chill out and let the alternator charge the batteries back up. The beauty of a high output alternator is that it will be able to either keep up with the amplifiers' current demands in real time, or at the very least recharge the battery system much faster during a sonic break. In either case, your alternator's life will be severely truncated. A beefy high output unit will obviously last longer, but dont expect more than a few years from it if you quad out on a daily basis like I used to....

Also the asphalt based deadening is great, but if you want more, after you apply the deadening, spray the backside with spray adhesive 3M HiTac90 (available at Home depot) and glue the carpet padding weight of your choice. Trust me, it makes one HELL of a difference. Also dont be afraid to double up on the sound deadening. while I avoided the crazy expensive stuff, I did use an aluminium backed asphalt adhesive from Home Depot. The stuff was cheap, so I double layered EVERYTHING.

Hi Temp Mastic is another asphalt based deadener available from McMaster.com. It stinks and is hard to work with, but is cheap and works well.


PS - what amps are you going to be using to achieve 4kW rms?

PPS - also keep in mind every 100lbs you add, will add about 0.1 second ET to your quarter mile time. That has been the ONLY thing to keep me from putting a system in the goat, well more of a system than I already have. (The OEM amp got drop kicked out of the garage and into the street and the OEM subs now have about 400w rms on them and they sound much much better.)
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Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 05-13-2012 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by high school goat...View Post

Hey different strokes for different folks! Personally I thought he was going to wall his goat off and make it a 2 seater.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:15 AM   #9
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Hope you don't get a flat with all those batteries and other stuff back there. Make sure to keep some sort of tool in the glovebox to undo them. Otherwise, very cool.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtoface...View Post
So your Gunna run crappy ass 0 Gauge wire then new wire it again? Why run it to start just go spend the money and get welding power cable and do it right the first time. Every stereo build I've done, running the 0 gauge is the biggest pain out of all that lol

I want to get it all up and running and then change stuff. Running wire doesn't bother me too much (especially when it doesn't involve wire into the doors). Deadening annoys me but whatever. rattles annoy me more than the labor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota...View Post
1/0, for the most part, is 1/0. And despite what the knowledge base states, wire is wire so long as there is no voltage drop from one end to the other during a high demand period. HAVING SAID THAT - buy the BIGGEST gauge you can afford, NOT the biggest brand name. Case in point Monster cable: IMPO (in my professional opinion) the stuff is GARBAGE, based on its cost vs performance. The stuff is over hyped, heavily over insulated so as to LOOK bigger, pain in the ass wire regardless of use. As far as noise rejection, its just about on par with most of the generics you can buy at Wallyworld. I have used their RCAs and they suck compared to the top end offerings from Stinger, Streetwires, etc. Fortunately if you install the RCAs properly, noise reduction properties are irrelevant.

IF you are going to blow a ton of $$ on wire, go with kicker's wire for one reason alone: flexibility. 1/0 kicker wire will make 4ga welding wire (or any other brand 4ga) seem like a solid ROD of steel. Seriously, their 1/0 is literally like an overcooked piece of spahgetti (sp?).

Back on topic, in the 4Runner I have a total of 4 runs of 1/0 to the rear battery (my competition class only allows 2 batteries total) and from the rear battery 8 runs of the stuff to the amps. I saw absolutely ZERO gain on my TermLab.usb meter going from 2 runs to 4 between the two batteries. (Keep in mind that you cannot discern a difference of 1dB, 2dB is barely discernable if you are listening for a change, and the fact that my meter is accurate to 1/100 of a dB.)

So the point of the last few paragraphs? Run what you have and see if there is a voltage difference from the front battery to the rear battery during a high demand period, such as a heavy bass tone. If no, then you are fine. You will see voltage drop, which is normal, but the whole system should drop the same amount and in unison. Only when it doesn't is when you will need more wire. For instance, I had 4 Zapco 9.0's powering 2 DD 9915s, and when I would burp it for testing or competition, the voltage would drop from 12.9v to about 10.2v or so. However it was the same regardless of where you measured the voltage at - front battery, rear battery, or at any of the 4 amplifiers.

Also the additional batteries will place a pretty hefty load on your alternator. If you quad out for an extended period of time, say 5 minutes, you'll have likely pulled out most of the reserve capacity (or whatever the correct term is) from the batteries, and you'll notice your voltage keeps dipping lower and lower with the same bass hits. When that happens, it is time to chill out and let the alternator charge the batteries back up. The beauty of a high output alternator is that it will be able to either keep up with the amplifiers' current demands in real time, or at the very least recharge the battery system much faster during a sonic break. In either case, your alternator's life will be severely truncated. A beefy high output unit will obviously last longer, but dont expect more than a few years from it if you quad out on a daily basis like I used to....

Also the asphalt based deadening is great, but if you want more, after you apply the deadening, spray the backside with spray adhesive 3M HiTac90 (available at Home depot) and glue the carpet padding weight of your choice. Trust me, it makes one HELL of a difference. Also dont be afraid to double up on the sound deadening. while I avoided the crazy expensive stuff, I did use an aluminium backed asphalt adhesive from Home Depot. The stuff was cheap, so I double layered EVERYTHING.

Hi Temp Mastic is another asphalt based deadener available from McMaster.com. It stinks and is hard to work with, but is cheap and works well.


PS - what amps are you going to be using to achieve 4kW rms?

PPS - also keep in mind every 100lbs you add, will add about 0.1 second ET to your quarter mile time. That has been the ONLY thing to keep me from putting a system in the goat, well more of a system than I already have. (The OEM amp got drop kicked out of the garage and into the street and the OEM subs now have about 400w rms on them and they sound much much better.)

Thanks for all the info. I'll definitely keep all of this in mind. and for the 4kw I was just rounding up haha. I'm buying a Crescendo BC3500 which from what I know does somewhere around 3875 watts at 1 ohm and the zapco supposedly does 120ish. So somewhere around 4000 lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota...View Post
Hey different strokes for different folks! Personally I thought he was going to wall his goat off and make it a 2 seater.

I was considering a wall but right now I still love the fact that when people get in the car they don't have any clue what's in the trunk. Maybe when I get out of college I will wall it. If so probably 2 18s or maybe some sort of bandpass. But after college I may get the car back to its proper function of a sports car and get a suv or a pick up for a DD and for bass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wang...View Post
Hope you don't get a flat with all those batteries and other stuff back there. Make sure to keep some sort of tool in the glovebox to undo them. Otherwise, very cool.

I always carry tools with me so I will be able to unbolt the box and amps to get them out.
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:17 PM   #11
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I also forgot to post this up. It is a little of what I have in my head for a hidden "control panel". I am not sure if I will glass it in there or make it out of abs plastic. I will start fiddling with it when I get my amp this week which will have my bass/gain knob

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Old 05-14-2012, 06:46 AM   #12
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I ran 3/0 in my gto for the stereo worked well with a hifonics colossus II and a Jupiter. I would really suggest looking into an after market alternator, your going to have major voltage drop in there with the stock alternator. Ask me how I know :P
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:55 AM   #13
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^^^^+1

I had 2 Diamond audio TDX ran off 2 1200.1s plus a 4 channel back in the day and had a extra stinger battery and 50 farad cap and it didnt do anything for me. Get a beefed up alternator. Stinger and Ohio generator make top of the line ones for car audio. Spendy but worth it
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reaper68...View Post
I ran 3/0 in my gto for the stereo worked well with a hifonics colossus II and a Jupiter. I would really suggest looking into an after market alternator, your going to have major voltage drop in there with the stock alternator. Ask me how I know :P

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Originally Posted by rob3980...View Post
^^^^+1

I had 2 Diamond audio TDX ran off 2 1200.1s plus a 4 channel back in the day and had a extra stinger battery and 50 farad cap and it didnt do anything for me. Get a beefed up alternator. Stinger and Ohio generator make top of the line ones for car audio. Spendy but worth it

I think I am going to go with DC power engineering when I do upgrade the alternator. They make really nice stuff and they will also re-case the alternator when I get a different car for audio stuff.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:55 AM   #15
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I ordered my amp yesterday. I went with a Crescendo BC3500 it should be here this coming thursday
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:02 PM   #16
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Just a bit of an update.

I everything but my 1/0 wire run for wiring. I am planning on starting to build battery holders and my box tomorrow. I am now booked for Slamology. So I will be in Indianapolis June 16-17 so indy goats hmu!

I also got some more parts in the mail.

Here are some pics

RCAs, 4 runs of 10 gauge to each door, Crescendo Bass knob wire, and 1 jank ground wire that I need to rip out.



Crescendo BC3500D along with the Zapco and the 2 other amps I've used in my car I guess I'm moving up in the audio world lol



My fancy RCAs



Stinger fits perfect down here:



I'm not sure whether to put L brackets in here to hold my volt meter or cut an abs plastic piece to fit? Suggestions?
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:33 PM   #17
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Also forgot to put this on my last update. I got a new front battery. I went with Deka and got a 75DT. When I pulled the old battery I was amazed by how bad it rusted the plate it sat on. So I will probably take that out remove all the paint and rust then repaint and re-install it. But good news the old battery sat at about 12.1 volts idling and the new is about 12.6 volts. Then going down the interstate the voltage was sitting before at about 13 volts and now it sits at 13.8. I'm amazed by how much a good battery does for the cars functionality.

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Old 05-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #18
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Here's a little peak at my box design I will probably use for slamology.

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Old 05-29-2012, 11:01 PM   #19
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I also deadened my trunk floor tonight



It's kind of ugly but it will do for now. I could probably use 2 more sheets on this area
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:20 PM   #20
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Here's a quick pic of my box I just had it cut at Lowe's today and was making sure it fit in my trunk.

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Old 06-01-2012, 08:58 AM   #21
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holy smurf that box is ridiculously massive..........
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
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holy smurf that box is ridiculously massive..........

It is but I should be able to fit the 2 Deka batteries and my 2 amps in the trunk.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
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It is but I should be able to fit the 2 Deka batteries and my 2 amps in the trunk.

What trunk?
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
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What trunk?

not sure now as I get to installing this stuff lol. I have maybe a cubic foot of storage space but some of that is over batteries which sounds like a bad place to store stuff.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:33 PM   #25
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I assembled the box partially today. It is all screwed together and wood glued in place. The sub is coming in tomorrow. I will probably work on the box some tomorrow. I am painting it with bedliner on the outside, and something close to the QSM color on the inside. My goal (for now) is to have something playing by this weekend. I'm pretty annoyed by the alarm situation. flash-it.com says nearly exactly what every car needs with its alarms but the GTO isn't listed. I am planning on buying a Viper 5901 and don't know what else I need. I have posted atleast 1 other thread here about it. Anyone have any info?
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:54 AM   #26
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when I used to build boxes I only used gorilla glue... it never gave me grief.

ported box looks good. make sure to curve the edges inside and outside of the port to reduce noise vibration, smoother bass that way (but Im sure you already know that).

cant wait to see the finished product!
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #27
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Alright a bit of an update.

I finished the box but neglected to take any pics. It is fiberglass resinned inside and bedlined on the outside.

I ran my 1/0 wire I went through the gasket on the passengers side behind the glove box. I drilled another hole out next to it the exact same size.



I also realized that my RCA's were directional and had to rip them out and spin them around.

I like where this is going but I am not sure how the screw hole broke o_O.



Left on my stereo to do list:

make 2 battery brackets, cut door speaker pods, make an amp rack, cut on the carpet cover on the battery to get the box to sit back a little further, finish the cubby hole beneath the radio, and Big 3 upgrade soon.

Also here's how the LED conversion is going:





Also got this in the mail


Last edited by GTOguy531; 06-07-2012 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:59 AM   #28
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I can appreciate the work. I would never go that nuts with a stereo system in a "performance" car. A single 8" or 10" with some component speakers front and back and happy as a clam.

I've had two 12's in a car before...good learning experience and fun to accomplish something but would never do it again.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:50 AM   #29
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I used to have an 18" FI Q in the trunk of my GTO with only 1000 watts so here are soemthing you're gonna want ot look into:
-The rear bumber is going to want to vibrate off the car. It popped one side loose one time so just be wary of that.
-Obviously, the trunk and lid are MAJOR vibration points, Especially, the spoiler. Also, please sound deaden the liscence plate...nothing sounds worse that a rattling liscense plate.
-I also used asphalt based deadener and on any overhead area be prepared for the shit to come loose (especially if you live anywhere where it gets really hot or really cold and USE A HEAT GUN TO APPLY!)
-Be prepared for the front and rear windows to flex in their seals quite a bit. You're sub is going to be getting way more power and you have a purpose built SPL box so you'll see even more flex than I did so just be cautious.
-My only other concern is the choice of plywood. it looks like a higher quality plywood you are using but I would HIGHLY recommend 1" MDF or at a minimum .75" MDF. I know it's heavier than plywood but at this point weight should be a mute point.
-You might want to get some shorter RCA cables. 20ft is way too long and you'll be wrapping the wires up somewhere in the vehicle and that's just another point for noise to introduce itself into your system.
-Finally, invest in some heavy duty springs or you're going ot be dragging your ass all over hells creation.
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MODS: MP112 1:1 Rears and 2.8" Front, 60lb inj, Mcleod Twin Disc clutch, GFORCE CF Driveshaft, Tru Trac with 3.7 gears, GFORCE solid cradle bushings, GFORCE billet one piece stubs, GFORCE Level II anti-wheel hop axles, Full return fuel system with single Aero 340 feeding the enigne and stock pump feeding the venturi. 493hp/5XXtq.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:46 PM   #30
GTOguy531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theone61636...View Post
I used to have an 18" FI Q in the trunk of my GTO with only 1000 watts so here are soemthing you're gonna want ot look into:
-The rear bumber is going to want to vibrate off the car. It popped one side loose one time so just be wary of that.
-Obviously, the trunk and lid are MAJOR vibration points, Especially, the spoiler. Also, please sound deaden the liscence plate...nothing sounds worse that a rattling liscense plate.
-I also used asphalt based deadener and on any overhead area be prepared for the shit to come loose (especially if you live anywhere where it gets really hot or really cold and USE A HEAT GUN TO APPLY!)
-Be prepared for the front and rear windows to flex in their seals quite a bit. You're sub is going to be getting way more power and you have a purpose built SPL box so you'll see even more flex than I did so just be cautious.
-My only other concern is the choice of plywood. it looks like a higher quality plywood you are using but I would HIGHLY recommend 1" MDF or at a minimum .75" MDF. I know it's heavier than plywood but at this point weight should be a mute point.
-You might want to get some shorter RCA cables. 20ft is way too long and you'll be wrapping the wires up somewhere in the vehicle and that's just another point for noise to introduce itself into your system.
-Finally, invest in some heavy duty springs or you're going ot be dragging your ass all over hells creation.

thanks for all the pointers I appreciate it. Did you ever meter your car on the termlab?

I'm going to seal of the vents to the back bumper my Type R 15 rattled the shit out of my back bumper's sides when I had it.

Trunk lid and license plate are already Deadened using Second Skin Alpha Damp. I think I am going to put a layer of Damplifier pro on the trunk lid because Meca rules say I can have 2 layers and it would probably help.

This box will be the first of many I just wanted to get something together that would look nice for Slamology and play pretty low.

I know what your saying with the RCA's I think I am just going to tuck them next to the battery on that side of the trunk.

I am planning on buying BC coilovers either before or after I get home from Slamology. The way I am thinking is if the car is fine with 2 200 pound people in the back seat for a drive to indy it will be fine with 300 pounds in the trunk even though more weight will be on the rear axle.

Hopefully in 24 hours I will be able to post semi-complete pics
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