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Old 10-04-2012, 07:48 AM   #1
Cwarta
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Spun a bearing - Swapping in an LS2-

Well, lastnight on my way home it appears i spit out the seal on the oil filter and puked out my oil. Parked it, still unaware. Started it to go to subway and didnt seam to want to turn over very well. Thought it was acting a little funny so i blipped the throttle a touch and heard a faint kbock so i killed it and pulled the dipstick. There was a one flake of bearing on the tip and No oil. So i was like wtf! I just checked it this morning!! Looked under it and sure enough the whole enderside is coated. Never smelled any oil , no lightsas a warning. Nothing.


I picked up a 60,000 LS2 out of an 05, with arp rod bolts for $900. Picking it up sunday,

I know im going to need the reluctor wheel converter box, and the wiring is different. What all will i need and what are the best places to find it? I have been searching all morning and found alot of questions, but really no answers. Plus it sucks from my Galaxy Ace
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:50 AM   #2
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I think all you have to do is relocate your knock sensors to the side of the block, get an ls2 front cover, get the cam position sensor extension harness.

Texas speed sells the entire kit for $300 I believe.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchicia1...View Post
I think all you have to do is relocate your knock sensors to the side of the block, get an ls2 front cover, get the cam position sensor extension harness.

Texas speed sells the entire kit for $300 I believe.

+1 That should cover most of it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:18 AM   #4
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Im still wondering how you landed a whole ls2 for 900.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:18 AM   #5
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Just make sure you definitely use the ls1 knock sensors as that is what your PCM is programmed to check against. I believe the LS2 knock sensors are configured much differently but I'll let Steel or someone else comment on that.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #6
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I don't know if they use different part numbers or not, but the ECM wont have a problem as long as the wiring is right. The blocks resonate at the same frequency and the sensors pick up that frequency. The rest is wiring and sensor location.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:44 AM   #7
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Late production Ls2's changed to a 58 tooth reluctor, so depending on what your Ls2 came out of, you may or may not need the converter box. I think the change started in '07 or late '06, all GTO's are the 24 tooth, Corvette, TBSS and SSR's could have either.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpvulpes...View Post
Im still wondering how you landed a whole ls2 for 900.

This ^ I'd be happy if I could find a 6L iron block for $500... you got a whole aluminum motor for $900. Crazy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87LC2...View Post
Late production Ls2's changed to a 58 tooth reluctor, so depending on what your Ls2 came out of, you may or may not need the converter box. I think the change started in '07 or late '06, all GTO's are the 24 tooth, Corvette, TBSS and SSR's could have either.

I'm pretty sure I saw it documented on this site somewhere that there were a couple late build '06 GTO's that had the 58 tooth. Common knowledge is they're all 24, but I could have sworn I saw 1 or 2 06 GTO guys say "no, I had my shit rebuilt, it definitely has a 58x."

That said, OP, if the "05" you're talking about is a GTO, you won't need the converter box.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:00 AM   #9
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Since the motor is out of the car, just freshen it up a bit. Byrant crankshaft, Bill Miller rods and Diamond pistons w/Total seal rings. Better yet...just get this: http://www.prolineracing.net/engines...-10-352-3200hp
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:03 AM   #10
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Wow great guys! Itsjust the block and complete in block rotating assembly. Guy doesnt want to ship it is why its so cheap. The shortblock i out of an 05 gto! I like the arp rod bolts to It was N/a in a fox body bit the guy is trying to fund a termi swap onto it
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:07 AM   #11
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You can check the link in my sig for some information since I'm basically transferring an entire 2005 into an 04.

The gist of it is that you will need:
-Converter box if the LS2 does not have a 24x reluctor. The change happened in 2006 model year.

2005 Corvette LS2 has 24x
2006 Corvette LS2 has 58x
2006 CTSV LS2 has 58x
2006 Trailblazer SS LS2 has 24x
2007-2009 Trailblazer SS LS2 has 58x
2005-2006 SSR has LS2 24x
2005-2006 GTO has 24x

You can tell what you have by the color of the crank position sensor located in the rear of the block by the starter.
58X is gray
24x is black

-Drill and tap your knock sensor holes for the LS1 knock sensors. Then get an LS1 knock sensor extension harness.


-Cam sensor extension harness.

-Reuse your LS6 intake, otherwise:
-MAP sensor extension harness
-Throttle cable bracket for LS2 manifold

I think that about covers it.

Last edited by MuhThugga; 10-04-2012 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:11 AM   #12
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Any know off the top of there heads the ls2 casting # or anything else the distinguishes an ls2 block. Need to look up the bore so i can check it aswell. Thanks for everyones help!!!!
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:18 AM   #13
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Wow thanks Muhthugga! Ive seen around ls3 complete topends for around $700 so i will be selling my worked 243's and ls6 intake to cover most if not all of it. Slap in my new ed curtis cam and go to town lol.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:27 AM   #14
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Just make sure that the cam will fit if you decide to mill the heads any. Clearance can get very tight with flat-top pistons and the larger, angled intake valves.

And you will want to then get the MAP extension harness and fabricate a throttle cable bracket.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:29 AM   #15
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A bit off topic, but just to clarify what I was getting at, I found my reference:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed...View Post
We've seen just a few GTO with production engines with a 58X reluctor. Typically this has been discovered only after the owner ordered a 24X engine and went to do the labor, and realized they got the odd-ball I would recommend that you verify it visually....this is like ordering pushrods without measuring, and can result in wasted money for shipping charges and more. If you want to guess, then the best guess is 24x (but again, there are exceptions out there)!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingsize...View Post
You are wrong. There are absolutely ZERO 58X reluctors in production GTO's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed...View Post
Sorry to bust your bubble....We did one of these installs here, and it was an OE production sealed engine in an 06 GTO that covers had never been off of, and it was 58x. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself, but that's a fact.

Moral of the story: check the color of your cam sensor to verify 100%
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:33 AM   #16
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Sounds good guys! Ill double check everything. I fully expect to fly cut. This custom hellion cam is massive. God i love this site.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuhThugga...View Post
Just make sure that the cam will fit if you decide to mill the heads any. Clearance can get very tight with flat-top pistons and the larger, angled intake valves.

And you will want to then get the MAP extension harness and fabricate a throttle cable bracket.

Good call! I was talking to posenhiemer about this aswell and he suggested i give Ed a heads up on my situation. Glad i did. Ed is spec'ing a new cam as the old one would have needed fly cut clear thrue the pistons lol.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:58 PM   #18
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Ed Curtis cam + Ls3 heads.....good combo, ask me how I know
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:09 PM   #19
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Im excited now. I still can believe i got this motor for $900. Gotta make sure i leave these 5.7 badges on here. That way i still get the " Oh its just a 5.7" speel. I think my car took the 05/06 hood, tails, and slpit exhaust a little to serious......
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:10 PM   #20
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Lol I am suddenly excited about my new motor too. Going fully forged plus a bigger cam = hello 7k+ RPM screaming down the 1/4. Lol with my 124-125 mph and my stock gears I can leave it in 3rd through the traps now.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:23 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mchicia1...View Post
Lol I am suddenly excited about my new motor too. Going fully forged plus a bigger cam = hello 7k+ RPM screaming down the 1/4. Lol with my 124-125 mph and my stock gears I can leave it in 3rd through the traps now.

Hell yes. I was bummed at first and then the oppertunity to go bigger showed itself. That put a big ol sig right on my face. And to be honest its going to wind up cheaper for me. $900 ls2 + LS3 top end ($700) > LS1 + $2,000 aftermarket heads and $1,000 fast combo. The later was going to be needed for the new cam.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:25 PM   #22
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Ya should be able to make the same or more power.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #23
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Mike i think we are build buddies. / NoHomo. You need to hit that......













With some spray
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:56 PM   #24
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwarta...View Post
Good call! I was talking to posenhiemer about this aswell and he suggested i give Ed a heads up on my situation. Glad i did. Ed is spec'ing a new cam as the old one would have needed fly cut clear thrue the pistons lol.

I've got something brewed up -


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Old 10-04-2012, 03:25 PM   #26
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Damn Ed that was fast!!! Cant wait to see this one!
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwarta...View Post
Mike i think we are build buddies. / NoHomo. You need to hit that......













With some spray

Oh it is getting some serious shit next year if I am going through the trouble of forging it.

FYI you brought this on yourself by freaking out that you thought you were gonna blow your motor after reading about mine lol.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:22 PM   #28
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Damn it! Dont you put that evil on me! You can bet your ass the new motor is going to have a manual oil pressure gauge.

Is there anything i should change on the motor while its out? Like rings/bearings? ANything i can do to prevent the oil consuption issues that sometimes happen?

Last edited by Cwarta; 10-04-2012 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:25 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Cwarta...View Post
Damn it! DOnt you put that evil on me! You can bet your ass the new motor is going to have a manual oil pressure guage.

Is there anything i should change on the motor while its out? Like rings/bearings? ANything i can do to prevent the oil consuption issues that sometimes happen?

Hone plus new rings wouldn't hurt and that is cheap. If the bearings are good, it can just bolt back together. Doing bearings costs a bit more because the shop will have to machine the rods and then put a slightly larger bearing on.

I'd probably just toss it in if you are confident it is fine. 60k is nothing.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:34 PM   #30
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Damn double posts

Last edited by Cwarta; 10-04-2012 at 04:38 PM.
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