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Old 11-11-2012, 05:52 PM   #1
JetPilot
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Where to get the "camber adjustment bolt"

for our front struts?

Firestone stripped the head off mine during an alignment and the ACDelco part I am seeing does not look similar enough to the attached pic of the stripped on. It looks as the guy that the previous tech loctited it in and the current tech stripped the head trying to advance/back it out/in.

Here's the ACDelco part....http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...873&cc=1432259


Any reference to the right part number would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Greg
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:14 AM   #2
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That's the wrong bolt. The RockAuto part you listed in an eccentric lower strut mount bolt. The one the guy stripped in the camber adjustment bolt. They're in 2 different locations.

RockAuto doesn't list this bolt on their site.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:56 AM   #3
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Are you sure.....?

Here's the same part with the description as camber adjustment bolt:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...C45K18036.html

If it is not could you/someone please direct me to the part number?

That's the object of this thread.

Thanks!

Greg
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:17 AM   #4
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That one is also an eccentric lower mount bolt, not the adjustment bolt you need.

I'd love to point you to the part, or give the part number, but I don't have it and haven't been able to find it.

The bolt goes through #2, and pushes against #8 on this image.



You could take the stripped one to a local Fastenal store and just have them match it up?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:22 AM   #5
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I would just get a bolt with the same thread pitch and length from homedepot.
Might not be the same head but will work.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O4 GTO...View Post
I would just get a bolt with the same thread pitch and length from homedepot.
Might not be the same head but will work.

Tried that and it vibrated out-From Lowes

Fastenal sells them in bags of 20 for $$$$

Seems to be a diff thread pattern on the OEMS than the Chinese junk bolts.

Question is...Is it really even a structural part-meaning once your strut bolts are tight-why is necessary?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:35 AM   #7
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Use some loctite to prevent the bolt from backing out. The OE bolt has thread sealant on it for that reason.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamwalker...View Post
Use some loctite to prevent the bolt from backing out. The OE bolt has thread sealant on it for that reason.

Ya i put red loctite on mine when I put in my pedders struts.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:43 AM   #9
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If it vibrated out, it wasn't set properly.

It should be loosened all the way out, then the lower strut mounts bolts loosened, then the camber set, then the lower strut mount bolts tightened to spec, then the adjustment screw gets tightened all the way in until it contacts the strut housing. It should be torqued enough to place enough pressure on it where it won't vibrate loose.

Maybe you should take the car to another shop, who is familiar with these cars and the front setup? Is there a Pedders dealer local to you?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamwalker...View Post
Use some loctite to prevent the bolt from backing out. The OE bolt has thread sealant on it for that reason.

I used red loctite when I switched to my pedders struts.
Have no problems so far.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:50 AM   #11
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10-4 the loctite!

I still want to find the OEM parts tho.

Thanks guys.....!


BTW....the head design on the OEM is wimpy as the alignment guys can easily strip them if they are loctited.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoopalini...View Post
If it vibrated out, it wasn't set properly.

It should be loosened all the way out, then the lower strut mounts bolts loosened, then the camber set, then the lower strut mount bolts tightened to spec, then the adjustment screw gets tightened all the way in until it contacts the strut housing. It should be torqued enough to place enough pressure on it where it won't vibrate loose.

Maybe you should take the car to another shop, who is familiar with these cars and the front setup? Is there a Pedders dealer local to you?


That makes me believe the bolt is not necessary if you tighten it in after you torque the lower strut bolts......Just saying
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPilot...View Post
That makes me believe the bolt is not necessary if you tighten it in after you torque the lower strut bolts......Just saying

Bolt isn't "necessary" but is a good backup to keep the tire from shifting into the strut.

Lowes bolt must have been shit Chinesse bolt that was looser in the knuckle then an OEM bolt. I've never seen that bolt shift and I've never loctited it.


And that link posted earlier replaces the lower bolt (Big one that clamps the strut to the knuckle) so you can adjust more camber into the car.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:07 AM   #14
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I think the part number is 92138755.


Last edited by steamwalker; 11-12-2012 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:48 AM   #15
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Steam.....This is the info I pull...Looks right-I think

BOLT. Steering Knuckle Lower Control Arm.
Stock Code 92138755
Fitment Notes
List Price
$ 7.56
Your Price
$ 5.59
You save $ 1.97 (26%)
Categories Suspension > Front
Assemblies V CONTROL ARM & STEERING KNUCKLE & STRUT;
Manufacturer GM


12 bucks at my stealership!

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:52 AM   #16
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100 per cent sure with this link..Thanks

http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/p/_.../92138755.html
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPilot...View Post
12 bucks at my stealership!

Thanks!

4x higher then cost... You have a great dealership there...
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:00 AM   #18
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Most of the online parts stores charge something like $10 in shipping (even for a single bolt) so maybe the stealership would be a better option if you don't have to pay shipping on top of that.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:01 AM   #19
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Oh yeah! NUTS!

5 bucks online(x2) with 12 shipping=22. 4 for 32

Get hammered either way except my Stealership sells the Redneck version.

I checked all the .coms....12 bucks for 3 oz of bolts....

NUTS!
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamwalker...View Post
Most of the online parts stores charge something like $10 in shipping (even for a single bolt) so maybe the stealership would be a better option if you don't have to pay shipping on top of that.

Well the Fstone techs in Aiken (where I have my lifetime alignment plan) are all bubbas-so I'll be going through these bolts every time; I fear.

So ordering 4 makes sense cause its 32 vs two at the stealership for 27 OTD(tax).

On the bright side...they are OEM and were FOUND-thanks to Steam.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:17 AM   #21
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I have some good Firestone alignment guys, its the alignment rack that sucks.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:41 AM   #22
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Roger that...

I went over there yesterday to have my alignment rechecked(In Aiken) They would not set (leave) the front camber in the red (-1.0) like I had it so they put it back to GTO spec...-0.5 L and R and now the whole car pulls to the right. Took it back for a recheck...Everything in the green but car pulls right...

Now I need to find a Hunter GSP97BMW with Lateral force tracking to check the tires-unless they bent my subframe when they jacked the front up on the rack to take off the wheels to loosen the 70+ ftlbs of torque on the lower strut bolts......What a fiasco...LOL.....IDIOTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:01 AM   #23
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What are your caster settings?
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:20 PM   #24
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Caster was....

On Nov 2nd....

8.8 on both sides....

On 11/13

8.9L 8.8R.

Camber was changed from -.1 on Nov 2 to -0.5 on Front L and R on 11/19...

Bias washer was removed Nov 2nd.

Greg
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #25
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I think they normally set the caster a little less on left for US crowned roads. I have mine 8.9L 9.3R and doesn't pull. I have Lovell RR bushings so there's plenty of adjustment there.
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