i have a 5 point and im legal to 10.0-135 mph
the mph has been the issue.
I've been 136 there and got the boot
the car has gone 143 on a bigger shot.
I had planned to make the car legal but I recently decided just to hold off for a while
with the cost of the cage and the pro licensing just to be able to run at this track
(the other tracks i run at aren't as strick)
it was hard to justify
I wish I had a cage. What's need above 135? I never knew there was a speed limit. What is needed after 10.0/135? I assume Gainesville us really strict about tech?
you need the full boogie above 135 or faster than 10.00
this is from LS1tech
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)
-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).
-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)
9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:
-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.
-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).
-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.
-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.
One thing I have had a great deal of difficulty with is the mounting hardware for the harness. I've seen a few come through the shop that were honestly dangerous. There is a specific way the hardware should be bolted down so that it does not bind and fail prematurely in a crash. It would be nice to see some detailed pictures of the harness hardware mounting point on a ride that had passed tech cert.
I am particularly interested in how you handle the anti-submarine belts with OEM seats and how you mount the swivels on lap belts. There is also a requirement to have a bolted brace from the rollbar to the driver's seat so that during a crash, slack isn't created if the seat is pushed backwards.
Also the fire suppression standards are an area of interest for me. I invested in a fire suppression system but did it for a system I could charge on my own. Unfortunately these systems do not meet the SFI standards in some venues.
All comments are bullshit, all posts fictional (cough cough)
"Hi, A 9 second IRS GTO that could be well into the 8s with an SRA"
Mods: A bumble bee is considerably faster than a John Deere tractor.
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