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Old 11-29-2012, 05:46 AM   #1
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How i got my GTO under 3000lbs

I have had more than a few PM's asking how much my GTO weighs and how i got it so light. So here is a thread as to how i got my GTO under 3000lbs.
This is for serious TRACK ONLY applications. Not a very fun street car. Well.... it is a lot of fun to drive on the street, but not exactly a nice quite comfy ride anymore.
To start i scalled my car and it was right around 4040lbs with me in it and a full tank of gas. Then the tear down began.

Started by removing all the interior. Not just floor mats, EVERYTHING. Sound insulation, AC system, gutted the dash, seats had to go, sound system, body harness, BCM, power windows. EVERYTHING.





Installed a OMP HTE Carbon seat (6lbs)

Little things add up quick. Removing things like the speed sensors, horns, unused bulbs, ABS system , brackets that were no longer used added up to over 100lbs very quick. Adding parts like a light weight flywheel also helped.
Glass was removed and replaced with polycarbonate.

The entire car was rewired so that the body harness now only has 6 wires. (PCM did need to be unlocked as there is no longer any type of VATS system)
Adding the roll cage and addidional chassis bracing did add about an additional 175 lbs
The insides of the doors were gutted out as you can see here.


Even with all the additional parts (cage, accusump, PS cooler, bash bars ect) the car still came in at 3140lbs with me in it and a full tank of gas when i corner balanced it. Take out fuel and my weight and that puts the car right around 2,880lbs.

To take more weight off this year, we are currently molding rear fiberglass quarters, chopping the whole rear of the car off and tubing it, tubing the front, doing a lighter fuel system. Replacing the rear fire wall with an aluminum sheet, carbon hood, and fiberglass fenders. We are looking to drop another 150 to 200lbs.
So anyone looking into buying a cheap salvage GTO and turning it into a track car, this should help as a good starting point to doing some serious weight reduction.
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Last edited by GTO Drifter; 11-29-2012 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
So anyone looking into buying a cheap salvage GTO and turning it into a track car, this should help as a good starting point to doing some serious weight reduction

Or you can just buy a foxbody and have a few hundred pounds head start. I mean when you're basically rolling around an empty chassis (with absolutely no creature comforts whatsoever) what does it matter if it's a nice GTO or a shitty 20 year old Mustang?



I kid I kid, nice work. Wonder how the ride is with those seats
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The cylinder heads became deformed because the air filter was so dirty they couldnt handle all the build up of air and oil coming through the air filter and the throttle body so i tried replacing the air tube with a cold air intake and i think the extra power blew out the cylinder heads and they crashed through valley pan into the crank. Then the crank spun hard and threw the pistons up to hard to cause a misfire

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Old 11-29-2012, 06:29 AM   #3
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It has a 20 yr old shitty Mustang motor lol
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:30 AM   #4
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:04 AM   #5
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Need more carbon fiber. Make sure it is 2x2 weave. 1x1 is jank ass shit for real son.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:36 AM   #6
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are you selling some of those parts
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammin86...View Post
Need more carbon fiber. Make sure it is 2x2 weave. 1x1 is jank ass shit for real son.

Word
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:41 AM   #8
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I would love to have a salvage GTO to do this to, not for teh drift, but as race car.

But I'm facing the triple threat, time, money, and space.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:06 AM   #9
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are you selling some of those parts

quarter panel... ?
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by 87LC2...View Post
I would love to have a salvage GTO to do this to, not for teh drift, but as race car.

But I'm facing the triple threat, time, money, and space.

Right there with ya, buddy. On both aspects of it all.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:52 PM   #11
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I'm going to test that carbon trunk lid out. Fenders don't weigh jack bit the RMR kit comes with fiberglass fronts. Busting out the cutter tomorrow to start chopping the front off. All my old interior is gone already. Sorry guys.
Rear quarters are going to be made out of urethane so I'm not to sure how good they will look on a street car.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:32 PM   #12
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Why not just build a chassis and then hang GTO sheet metal on it? That is how I have always built my race cars.

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Old 11-29-2012, 07:26 PM   #13
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Mad props for hitting your target weight brotha , I can relate on how hard it is shed weight on these heavy as cars , my goal was under 3k as well but I wanted to do it as a street car tho so I'm pretty maxed out @ this point ,I don't have a roll cage is why I'm pretty close to you probably...
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:35 AM   #14
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Tube chassis is against regulations for formula drift. No modifications can be made to the subframes or chassis in between the furthest mounting suspension points. Roll cage can not pass through any fire walls. Gotta stay within the guidelines of the rule book to compete.
Keeping all the stock interior will be difficulty to get under 3k. The factory seats alone weigh 10lbs MORE than my roll cage.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87LC2...View Post
I would love to have a salvage GTO to do this to, not for teh drift, but as race car.

But I'm facing the triple threat, time, money, and space.

Same here.

So my gto is now a weight redux compromise
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:41 AM   #16
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So, OP, tell me more about how you did the polycarbonate windows...
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:09 AM   #17
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Purchased 2 4x8' sheets. Removed windows. Traced outlie of window onto cardboard. Fit cardboard to car. Transfer outline of cardboard to polycarbonate. Cut out with a jigsaw. Trim and fit to car. Drill counter sunk holes in polycarbonate. Drill holes in car. Nut and bolt windows in. Took about 3 hours to do with the glass all remove already.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #18
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Purchased 2 4x8' sheets. Removed windows. Traced outlie of window onto cardboard. Fit cardboard to car. Transfer outline of cardboard to polycarbonate. Cut out with a jigsaw. Trim and fit to car. Drill counter sunk holes in polycarbonate. Drill holes in car. Nut and bolt windows in. Took about 3 hours to do with the glass all remove already.

No issues following matching the curvature of the stock windows then?

I may do this with my quarter glass.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:22 AM   #19
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in for this ^
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:25 AM   #20
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Poly windows aren't legal on street cars right?
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:27 AM   #21
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I'm going to test that carbon trunk lid out. Fenders don't weigh jack bit the RMR kit comes with fiberglass fronts. Busting out the cutter tomorrow to start chopping the front off. All my old interior is gone already. Sorry guys.
Rear quarters are going to be made out of urethane so I'm not to sure how good they will look on a street car.

If you want to recoupe some cash on this project, I'd like a set of those poly body panels! Great build, keep those pics coming!
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Poly windows aren't legal on street cars right?

no, but not all cars have safety inspections. Hide the bolts and you can probably get away with it, especially in a small area like the quarter glass. Tint it so you can't tell it's not as clear as glass.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:21 PM   #23
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No issues following matching the curvature of the stock windows then?

I may do this with my quarter glass.

Is that worth the hassle? Meaning the weight savings vs the work to do it?

I don't know what your car is like. Are you strictly a track/auto-x car? If you aren't going to the exrtemes like the OP then I don't know if it would be worth it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:17 PM   #24
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Is that worth the hassle? Meaning the weight savings vs the work to do it?

I don't know what your car is like. Are you strictly a track/auto-x car? If you aren't going to the exrtemes like the OP then I don't know if it would be worth it.

I don't see why it matters to you?
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:47 PM   #25
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It either sits in a garage getting worked on, goes out on the street for testing and hptune-ing, and goes to the track at this point. That's about it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:00 PM   #26
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Poly is very flexible. A support brace is needed for the windshield but follows the factory shape very easy.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:10 PM   #27
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Poly is very flexible. A support brace is needed for the windshield but follows the factory shape very easy.

Good to know. I only plan to do the quarter glass. Door windows need to stay glass as I still need them to go up and down

Any specific tips as to how you did the quarter glass, or it pretty much as described in your previous post?
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:44 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:23 PM   #29
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Quarter glass was extreamly easy, but in all honesty, unless your going to the extream like I am where every 10lbs counts, I wouldn't do it. I'll tell you why. The plastic trim wont come of the factory glass. Notice my car dose not have it. It scratches very very easy and is extreamly hard to keep clean. Also, the weight savings is minimal. In my application it helps because 30lbs here and there add up quick, but on a full interior car it's not worth losing practicality in order to shave 10lbs off your car. If your only doing the rear quarters you might save 4-5 lbs. replacing all my glass with polycarbonate shaved 36lbs. Unless doing a full blown track car it would be near the bottom of the to do list.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:29 PM   #30
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Here are a few pics, you can see how the sheet was cut and then see how nice it follows the factory curve just by being installed.




And this stuff it's just for drift cars. I love any type of racing drag, auto cross, Road racing, rally cross. I just want to show the community that if there are guys that want to build these cars as track sluts, dont let the fact that they are heavy sway you away from it. They can shave fat pretty quick and work great on the track.

Last edited by GTO Drifter; 11-30-2012 at 05:34 PM.
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