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Old 02-18-2013, 01:07 PM   #1
scruffy57
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Street Slayer install. Transmission will not go in gear

Hey guys. I purchased the Street Slayer 6 puck ceramic, ac delco f-body slave, and sachs pilot. My mechanic just called and said he had it installed but, the car will not go in gear. I have read on the forums of other troubles. I never saw a solution though. I also have a call in to Non-Sponsor. They must be off today though.

I am trying to find out anything that can help quickly.

Thanks
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:10 PM   #2
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I would look closely at the hydraulics first. Honestly if he's a good mechanic he should be able to figure this out quickly.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #3
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If the hydraulics are sound and it has been fully bled, the only other issue that could cause this are that the slave may need to be shimmed. Was the slave measured?
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #4
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I don't think the slave was measured. Everything I read about the Street Slayer said that it did not need shims. I am quickly understanding that might not be the case.

Anybody have a recommendation on where to pick up shims quick in dallas area if that is what it is?
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy57...View Post
I don't think the slave was measured. Everything I read about the Street Slayer said that it did not need shims. I am quickly understanding that might not be the case.

Anybody have a recommendation on where to pick up shims quick in dallas area if that is what it is?

Your assuming to much at this point. Your mechanic will be able to tell you what you need providing the install was done correctly.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:30 PM   #6
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It will need to be shimmed, first hand experience.... If the shims are too thick they need to get longer bolts to keep good thread engagement into the front case.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSfastGN...View Post
It will need to be shimmed, first hand experience.... If the shims are too thick they need to get longer bolts to keep good thread engagement into the front case.


Did you install a Street Slayer?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSfastGN...View Post
It will need to be shimmed, first hand experience.... If the shims are too thick they need to get longer bolts to keep good thread engagement into the front case.

That's not necessarily true at all.

I installed the StreetSlayer almost a year ago and measured multiple times. I DID NOT need a shim.

OP, this same exact thing happened to me when I installed my unit. I couldn't get it into any gear. Turns out, the Slave Cylinder had busted. Did you replace the slave? If so, I would look into dropping the tranny again and checking it. The increased stress from the new clutch could have caused it to fail.

I put in a new slave and everything has been perfect since.

EDIT: I re-read your first post and it seems you did install the new slave. Again, check to make sure it didn't fail. While you are down there, measure for a shim. You may or may not need it.

I know this is really stupid and I am not trying to insinuate anything here, but did you make sure you installed the flywheel the proper way? I have read multiple times about a flywheel installed backwards and this is a common result.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy57...View Post
Did you install a Street Slayer?

Ive done a couple of them and both required shimming so it is a possibility that it needs to be shimmed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Falco21...View Post
That's not necessarily true at all.

I installed the StreetSlayer almost a year ago and measured multiple times. I DID NOT need a shim.

I should have worded it that it very well might need one, not that it will have to have one. I was told that I wouldn't and made the mistake of not measuring.... out came the trans and in went the shims and bingo, it went into gear fine. His may still be a hydraulic issue but needing a shim is definitely a possible cause as well
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSfastGN...View Post
I should have worded it that it very well might need one, not that it will have to have one. I was told that I wouldn't and made the mistake of not measuring.... out came the trans and in went the shims and bingo, it went into gear fine. His may still be a hydraulic issue but needing a shim is definitely a possible cause as well

This is accurate. It kinda bothers me that they are advertised as not needing a shim. You should always measure before coming to that conclusion. Some need it, while others don't.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:34 PM   #11
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I've had 3 clutches, and all of them needed a shim. Two were streetslayers. I believe some bellhousings were made at a different plant and have diff dimensions ??
The only time that you don't need to measure is the old cars with manual linkage that were adjustable.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:06 PM   #12
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well idk about your mechanic and his shop.

but at my job, id have to remove the transmission and figure out wtf is wrong.

if you handed me these parts and they were "defective" or not right, you would owe me labor to for R&ring again.

anyways,

if the pedal feels right, and he cannot shift while the engine is running odds are the clutch disc maybe incorrectly oriented.
not incredibly difficult to screw up, but its always the flat side towards the fly wheel.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:52 PM   #13
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Well he took the measurements according to Tick's website. The distance of A and B were the same. What would cause this?

Any ideas?

Thanks again
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:27 PM   #14
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Are you back on the road?

The first time I measured for shim I didn't have the TOB fully seated in the slave and had incorrect readings.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:36 PM   #15
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Wink

Not back on the road yet. I elected to get car back and work on it myself.

The first thing I did was bled 12 ounces of dot 4 synthetic through the speed blessed. Pedal feels really good. Car will still not go in gear while running. I can put it in gear while it's off, and the car will leap forward when I start it

The weird thing I noticed though: when trying to put the car in gear, the car starts to creep forward. Is this normal?

Ultimately, I am going to take it all apart and measure for slave myself. Is a standard tape measure adequate for this job?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:14 PM   #16
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I think the clutch disc is installed incorrectly.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:42 PM   #17
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After I did my clutch install my car wouldnt go into gear while running either. so I bleed the shit out of the clutch for like and hour! after that it shifts like a dream. I too required a shim in mine.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #18
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If you have bled it that much and its not working it needs a shim. Yes its normal for the car to creep forward when trying to put it into gear as its not shimmed enough to fully disengage the clutch from the flywheel. It needs a shim. There is a nice write up on ls1tech and here i think explaining how to measure properly to find out how big a shim.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #19
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Took everything apart today. I took measurements with a digital caliper the best I could. I measured the distance from the tranny surface to the throwout bearing surface and got a different measure each time. Haha. The average measure was 2.25 though. I then measured the distance from the fingers of the pressure plate to the bellhousing surface and got 2.41. If I am correct in thinking, I will need a small slave shim then. Does this sound right?


Thanks
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:22 PM   #20
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Sounds like you need about a .050 shim
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:09 AM   #21
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Placed order for Tick Performance .055 shim.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:22 AM   #22
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Nothing but time to think about things while the shim is on order.

I am curious as to the best procedure to measure for them shim. It was really hard to get an exact measurement from the fingers of pressure plate to bell housing. The same goes for measuring from throwout bearing to mounting surface of tranny. The best I could come up with was laying a piece of flat barstock across the throwout bearing and bellhousing. Unfortunately, I could never get the exact same measure each time though. So, I just averaged them. Any ideas on a better way?
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:13 PM   #23
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Did you take the spring off the slave to make it easier?
I took a straight edge and put it across the slave bearing face, then measured one side of the trans face, and then the other side. If it was different, you don't have it square. Move the straight edge until both sides measure the same--that would be your dimension.
Same for the fingers--straight edge across the bell housing, measure to the fingers. Sounds easy sitting at my desk. Under the car---CRAP.

Last edited by Lakegoat; 03-04-2013 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:36 PM   #24
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easier with 2 people doing it...remove spring from slave like said, and have one person push the slave all the way in and hold it level while the other uses a straight edge and takes measurements. make sure the bleeder is open too
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:24 PM   #25
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I did take spring off. I did not open the bleeder though. I assumed I had lost all the fluid out of it when I disconnected the clutch line. I will remeasure with bleeder open. This time I am going to take a large carpenters square and lay it across the transmission mounting surface. Then I will hook one side of caliper to the backside of the square and th other side directly to the front side of tob. Seems like less chance of wobbling the straight edge.

Thanks to everyone for helping

Last edited by scruffy57; 03-05-2013 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:36 PM   #26
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One thing you may want to check just to be sure is the torque on the pressure plate bolts. If the torque is incorrect it can cause the clutch to not disengage.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:46 PM   #27
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I also recently installed a street slayer along with new slave and bearing.. its very hard to get it into reverse when its cold or first start.. all the other gears are OK.. a lil notchy but that's probably just my gmm shifter.. think I might need a shim also?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:02 AM   #28
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The only way to know is take it apart and measure. Its a pain, but at least you will really know.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyracer...View Post
I also recently installed a street slayer along with new slave and bearing.. its very hard to get it into reverse when its cold or first start.. all the other gears are OK.. a lil notchy but that's probably just my gmm shifter.. think I might need a shim also?

Its hard to say but on the reinstall if the reverse lockout connector did not plug in cleanly it may have bent a prong inside and now the lockout is engaged full time. I had this issue a while back and was so relieved to find the fix only required a flash light and a pair of need nose to straighten the prongs.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:23 PM   #30
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I put everything back together with the shim. Worked like a charm. Hard to believe that sliver of metal was causing the car to not go into gear.

One of the best purchases I made for this swap has to be the harbor freight transfer pump (Item #66418). I filled the tranny with fluid in 5 minutes tops. The pump was only 7.99

Thanks to all that helped

J
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