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Old 02-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #1
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Started working on my interior a little bit...

I've only had my car for 3 months and since I picked it up, I've been returning my 2002 Camaro SS back to stock to sell it among other things and finally got that taken care of. Now, I've just started getting to the things that bug me about this car. First was the hard-wiring of the Valentine 1 radar detector...



Second was to fix the crappy rear view mirror that's peeling in the corners and beginning to get discolored. Enter: Gentex 40A auto dimming mirror with Homelink.



Also, had a Raptor shift light left over from my Camaro and decided to do a little stealth install.

Now you see it...


Now you don't.


Also, while I was at it, I relocated my PCM from the engine bay to the driver side kick panel. This made hooking the shift light to the tach signal a walk in the park.



Here's a pic of the wiring to help some out that might need a reference.



That's 3 switched power:

One Mirror (red)
One Radar (red)
One Shift Light (red)

And 1 constant power:

One - Homelink (yellow)

**Note: each power wire is individually fused**

Next up, the serious stuff. I have 150sq ft of Rattle Trap sound deadener on my work bench and 150sq ft of Ensolite on its way as well as the following for my stereo install:

Pioneer AVH-P8400BH
Focal Polyglass 6.5's for the rear deck
Focal Focal PS 165 6.5's of the doors and tweets for the dash pods
Team SCSS Double Din Install Kit

The second phase (when my spare car funds replenish themselves) will be the following:

JL 300/4v3 Black Amplified (75 x 4 @1.5 - 4ohm)

JL 600/1v3 Black Amplified (600 x 1 @1.5 - 4ohm)

Critical Mass 10" Subwoofer - SS102

Also...working on a dual MDF/Fiberglass sub box for the side panels. Here's the first whack at a template last night. I'm sure I'll be tweaking it here and there to fit the best I can get it. I have pretty decent woodworking skills and have built probably around 20 different boxes for different cars in the past few years. This is just a starting point based off of some measurements I've gotten from here and there. The goal is to take up as much area in the cubby hole as possible. That's why I'm putting the Polys in the rear deck. I'll be mounting my amps behind the trunk carpet where the factory amp is mounted.

Oh and thanks USPS.



Just figured I would throw up a few pictures that may help people out. Also going to be updated the thread when i install all of the deadener and get the stereo install and boxes wrapped up. I'll be making a few real templates when I get the fitment right this weekend.

Last edited by 02blackbullet; 02-26-2013 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #2
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Thanks man!

They aren't cheap. Around $400 is the cheapest you can find them new. Totally worth it though.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:14 AM   #3
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I can tell you now that sub box will be too deep when you mount a sub and put the interior back over it.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMinVA...View Post
I can tell you now that sub box will be too deep when you mount a sub and put the interior back over it.

5.5" total depth of all wood/box (including face and back..so an overall actual BOX depth of 4.5"? I'll be using 1/2" MDF and fiberglass so strength won't be an issue.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02blackbullet...View Post



say goodbye to your fuse receptacle
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superchargedgp...View Post
say goodbye to your fuse receptacle

...why?

Last edited by 02blackbullet; 02-26-2013 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:32 PM   #7
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I just installed a side sub box last week. 5" total depth (not inside) and it was close. I wouldn't go larger.

Don't forget the ring of the sub adds about 1/2" also.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:33 PM   #8
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Funny thing is I use the same USPS boxes for all my mockups too
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superchargedgp...View Post
say goodbye to your fuse receptacle

If you're referring to the connection into the fuse box, the connector was properly sized and it was temporary until my taps came in.

Better?

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Old 03-02-2013, 02:16 AM   #10
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Had some time yesterday to test fit my box template. There's no way that would have fit properly so I built a new one. Fits great. Installed sound deadener all inside the wheel well cubby area and back seats to start with. Ill be doing more later today. Also probably doing the doors and passenger wheel well cubby.

Started:


Covered:


Installed:


Yes, it looks crooked. I made 4 aluminum brackets to use when securing the box. They're all bent up and pre drilled. Just didn't want to install them until my sub comes in so I only have to do it once. Should turn out nice.

Measured out, it's 3.5" deep, it has plenty of clearance for sub excursion, it'll fit a Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 with room to spare and is right in spec as far as enclosure cubic feet for the sub goes. Might not be for everyone but I'm not looking to hit 160db. Just want clean tight bass and nice mids/highs to enjoy in between listening to the car's natural aluminum radio like I normally do.

Ill probably be installing the pioneer DD and Team SCSS DD install kit today as well so I can finally stop listening to this FM bullshit I've been stuck with for months now lol.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:42 AM   #11
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that appears to be an exceptionally well-designed box, an excellent fit. impressive.
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:03 AM   #12
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Started working on my interior a little bit...

How much weight did that sound deadening add to the car?


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Old 03-03-2013, 05:21 PM   #13
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Thanks man. I appreciate it. It turned out really nice in my opinion.

The Rattle Trap weighs 23 pounds per 50 sq ft. Not bad considering the dampening abilities of this stuff. Really cuts down on the road noise/rattles and I'll be putting Ensolite on top of that for noise reduction as well.

Didn't get to the radio install. I'll tackle that next weekend. Ordered the sub too. Everything will be here Wednesday as well as the JL 750/1 and JL 600/4 amps.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:19 PM   #14
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nice thread. i like the progression
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:38 PM   #15
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If i were ever to put a system in my car i would do it your way. That looks frikkn awesome!!
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:06 PM   #16
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I don't want to say I told ya so on the depth of the box but...

FWIW - I didn't need any sound deadening at all on mine. I thought for sure I would, but just out of impatience, I tested the sub out, and got ZERO noise/ratles. I was very impressed.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da04Goat...View Post
nice thread. i like the progression

Thanks man! I try to do any threads that I make in the same way. Kinda like a mini build thread. I'm new on this board but have been on plenty of others and I think it helps when people are searching for "how do I do this" type advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiceredLS2GTO...View Post
If i were ever to put a system in my car i would do it your way. That looks frikkn awesome!!

Thanks man, I've done a few and am by no means an expert. Plus my budget is crap so I can't go nearly as crazy as I would like but it is what it is. Trying to make the best of things with what I've got to spend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMinVA...View Post
I don't want to say I told ya so on the depth of the box but...

FWIW - I didn't need any sound deadening at all on mine. I thought for sure I would, but just out of impatience, I tested the sub out, and got ZERO noise/ratles. I was very impressed.

LoL, I wasn't doubting you. I already had the template built though so I had to use it. It lasted all of about 3 minutes into the test fitting. After I put the sound deadener inside the cubby hole, I tried the fitment. Then that template started loosing cardboard...rapidly. LoL, by the time I noticed that it was fitting correctly, I looked down and it was but a shell of its former self...luckly I had spare template material...thanks USPS .

By the way, you don't realize how much the sound deadener helps. Especially in the forward part of the wheel wells, behind the rear seats and the bottoms of the front doors. It's like the difference of riding in a Lexus VS a Honda Civic...an older Civic lol
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:47 AM   #18
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By the way, found a deal on a JL HD 750/1 and JL HD 600/4 so we're gonna be pumping the volume up juuuuuuuuuust a bit more than I originally expected. Got both for $500 shipped...yeah, had to jump on that. They got here yesterday along with the mids/highs, Pioneer DD radio, sub, Monster XLN RCA cables and a few other things. I've been slammed at work lately and have a party to go to this weekend but hopefully can put in some work SOME TIME soon so I can get this stuff knocked out. Wife isn't too happy that I have $4k worth of car parts/electronics just sitting around (including Kooks headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, HMS motor mounts, AMW catch can, Russell's brake lines...we'll go with an "etc." here)
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:51 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 02blackbullet...View Post
By the way, found a deal on a JL HD 750/1 and JL HD 600/4 so we're gonna be pumping the volume up juuuuuuuuuust a bit more than I originally expected. Got both for $500 shipped...yeah, had to jump on that. They got here yesterday along with the mids/highs, Pioneer DD radio, sub, Monster XLN RCA cables and a few other things. I've been slammed at work lately and have a party to go to this weekend but hopefully can put in some work SOME TIME soon so I can get this stuff knocked out. Wife isn't too happy that I have $4k worth of car parts/electronics just sitting around (including Kooks headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, HMS motor mounts, AMW catch can, Russell's brake lines...we'll go with an "etc." here)



AHAHA. My wife doesn't know how much I spend on the car...but I keep it civil. Last "batch" of parts bought were after I got a bonus which totaled $1000 (new front rotors/pads, Anti hop axle, JHP side markers, Oil Pressure/Water Temp gauges, gauge pod, exhaust pipe to build custom exhaust)

Looks good! Now that I got the car mechanically worked out (05/06 brake swap, front end bushings, rear springs, DSS driveshaft) I may look into sound/apperance more. Although I don't find myself "bumping" the tunes like I used to. Thinking of some quality component setup and avoid a sub but toss an amp to come component setup.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #20
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LoL, it's not the money. It's the fact that I've had them sitting around and no time to do it so she has to be careful parking her car on her side of the garage because of the boxes lol
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:23 AM   #21
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Just as an update, I installed everything over the weekend. 10 sq yards of Ensolite, 100 sq ft of Rattle Trap, Focal 6.5 component set, Focal Polyglass for rear fill, Pioneer 10" in a side sub box, both JL 750/1 and 600/4 amps, Monster RCAs that I had, 1/0 wiring kit.

Mounted the tweeters in the stock location using the OEM tweeter mounts. Just mounted them to the new tweets and they fit in the stock location. Worked out...flawlessly.

Impressions: Sounds like angels smurfing my ears. Good decent thump from the sub (nothing crazy deep but nice tight clean bass. Really adds to the overall sound of my music. Mostly used as kick drum (blues/rock type music) adder.

I would recommend this setup to anyone.

One thing to note...don't turn the car on without seats in it. Damn Airbag Fault code. Oh well, I have a buddy local with a Tech II to handle it so no biggie. Just an annoying ding. Hands look like I got into a fight with a large cat but I'm good. End product is nice.

Now time to install my headers/exhaust so I can hear my car running again without having to roll the windows down. lol
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:51 AM   #22
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I accidently turned mine on with the seats out just recently too....sucks!
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #23
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VERY curious about the sound deadener...I'm seriously considering this be the next mod but hear alll forts of things about all sort of companies...my head is spinning.

Second Skin
Fatmat
Raamat
Audio Technix
Sound Deadener Showdown
JUST to name a few...

Every company claims they are the thickest/best/leader in the industry...I'm surprised one company hasn't made a lab controlled tests comparing all the available sound deadeners.

Everyone said SS is the best...but that comes at a cost. The GTO is a true DD want the best price/performance ratio. Not looking to break the bank lol.

OP why did you go with Fatmat Rattle Trap and then Raamat Ensolite?

Last edited by smitty2919; 03-19-2013 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:46 AM   #24
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Let’s get this out of the way first:

1. I’m not an expert.

2. I do NOT own a decibel meter.

3. I’ve installed Dynamat Regular, Dynamat Extreme, Standard FatMat, Rattle Trap and eDead deadener products in a few different cars so I feel that I’m a decent judge of their capabilities. I’m in no way a “professional or SME” though.

I feel that they’re all pretty much on the same level for the most part (if all 80mm product). I would personally go with Rattle Trap because of the best balance of price and performance. . I put it in all of my cars. I’ve done my Camaro, two 240sx’s, my wife’s WRX and now the GTO. I can say, first hand, that it greatly decreases exhaust noises, road noise, increases bass response and all around stops rattles and gives your GM car a Lexus (ISH) quality feel. The doors shut solid, no rattles inside if done correctly and it decreases the drive-line noise of our whiny ass cars a decent amount.

I say you can’t go wrong. Unless you have an all-out drag car where every ounce counts, this project won’t add much additional weight to the car…besides, it’s a pig already. LoL

All of this sound "deadener" is actually used to stop rattles. That's the common misconception. It's not a sound proofing item (although it does it quite well). Ensolite is a specific product to decrease NOISE. When used with the Rattle Trap, it's kind of a one-two punch on rattles AND noise. It helps the Rattle Trap dampen that much more noise/vibration. It's said to "increase the effect of the Rattle Trap by 2x's but I disagree. It DOES help, just not that much. That's a marketing ploy if I've ever heard one. Regardless, it's better than with just the RT alone. Noticeable difference. If you want to take on the extra expense, $100 worth (10 yards) will do your entire car. I didn't do the trunk though. Just the back wall behind the seats with two layers to block anything from the cabin. No sub in the trunk, no need for deadening.

That's my non-scientific break down.

Last edited by 02blackbullet; 03-20-2013 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:45 AM   #25
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Thanks a lot!

What made you chose the Ensolite over any other company? Again cost vs performance?

I was thinking about using some Peel and Seal in my trunk only...yes I know it's ghetto but it's dirt cheap. IF it smells (which some say it does and some says it doesn't) then hopefully I don't smell it in the cabin. Then I would use some better quality deadener on the rear deck/rear seat area combined with some sound proofing CCF/MLV mat.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:11 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty2919...View Post
Thanks a lot!

What made you chose the Ensolite over any other company? Again cost vs performance?

I was thinking about using some Peel and Seal in my trunk only...yes I know it's ghetto but it's dirt cheap. IF it smells (which some say it does and some says it doesn't) then hopefully I don't smell it in the cabin. Then I would use some better quality deadener on the rear deck/rear seat area combined with some sound proofing CCF/MLV mat.

Nothing really. I compared Ensolite to others and this stuff had the best review by far and the price was nice. It worked great and is sticky as fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. If you have two pieces touch eachother...you're done. LoL

If you get a bulk pack of Rattle Trap (100sq ft), you should have enough to do the whole car.They generally recommend around 50% coverage in most areas. I personally do 100% but I don't listen to anyone and do shit my way lol.

Peel and stick isn't what I would do. You can always call up the Rattle Trap people and tell them what you're doing and how you've heard good things about their product. I'm sure they'll give you a discount like they do for me each time now. LoL

Do it once and do it right. Different strokes for different folks though. If it makes you happy, at the end of the day, it's your car.
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:43 AM   #27
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I appreciate the response. Sometimes all you have is people's personal experiances/recommendations that have used multiple products. A lot of reviews I came across is "XXX product is great!" And you find out they have not used ANY other product and this is the first time using a sound deadener...well yea obviously it will work to an extent over not having anything in there LOL.

How much of the ensolite did you buy to do the rear deck and all of back seat area? I may allow the ensolite to "roll up" the quarter panels without needing to remove them. I may just stuff it uner the panel.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:00 AM   #28
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I would say 3 yards to do that area 100%. Maybe 4 if you include the back deck and double up in trouble areas. Each door takes one yard, the floor and trans tunnel take the rest...so maybe around 4ish? that's give or take about a .25 to .5 of a yard on each calculation. I really didn't measure each section so it's just a guesstimate.

No stuffing under the panel. You won't get NEARLY any of the benefits of actually sticking it to the surface all around. You want COMPLETE coverage when soundproofing areas like a cabin.

You'll want to remove the quarter panel trim anyway for the rattle trap application. A LOT of sound comes from that area.

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Old 03-21-2013, 05:42 AM   #29
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Sorry im late ,everything is looking good,is it to late to get you to do something to the side box? If you get a chance give me a call and i will explain how to stiffin that box in a few minutes and you will hear the low notes get deeper and more output.It will only take you about 10min to do you just need to pull the sub out and the box .980-521-0722 call anytime
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Non-Sponsor-Engineering...View Post
Sorry im late ,everything is looking good,is it to late to get you to do something to the side box? If you get a chance give me a call and i will explain how to stiffin that box in a few minutes and you will hear the low notes get deeper and more output.It will only take you about 10min to do you just need to pull the sub out and the box .980-521-0722 call anytime

Are you spamming threads? I just did a quick search for Non-Sponsor and nothing has been mentioned in this thread.
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