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Old 03-22-2013, 09:03 PM   #1
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Program your own cluster: a reality

Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty2919...View Post
And because it doesn't work unless you send your cluster out to have it turned on...

Not quite true. Program your cluster yourself.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:07 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by smitty2919...View Post
Get me a writeup and Im all for it. Not as easy as you say. Otherwise everyone would already be doing it.

Not as easy as I say? Here are some pictures.








Last edited by Konnie the Goat; 03-24-2013 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:07 PM   #3
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Re: Program your own cluster: a bluff?

Does this mean I won't have to ship off my cluster to have one feature turned off? I already got Chris to program mine, but since have switched to a 160* thermostat. So now my car hollers at me whenever I go above 3K (an option I asked for) since it thinks I'm not up to operating temp yet. All I want is that one feature turned off. I move in a month and don't want my cluster to be away when it's time to move, and if I wait until after I can very well miss some good spring driving.

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #4
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First off, these cars are NOT using an OBD2 bus (or PT or whatever the 04 is) for the communication between modules. Everything in the car with the exception of the ECU is ALDL (OBD1). The PIM converts the ECU's OBD2 into ALDL/OBD1 that the rest of the car can handle. This is the big thing. Everyone has looked in the wrong direction for far too long. Look to the past to get to the future.
ALDL is running at 8192 baud. Nothing special there except your typical programs will only let you choose 9600baud as the closest. (Think Cisco programming) So to make the connection you either need a terminal program that will let you choose the baud rate you want, or what I have done, is use a little program called "OSE Enhanced Flash Tool v141" found on I believe delcohacking.net

If you install this program (VERY small program), you can communicate with the cluster using a standard OBD1 ALDL to USB cable. Cost was about $65. This was the only thing I had to buy.

You need to know the code to send the cluster. I'm going to show you the code I used for mine, and then break it down.

Full string of commands (No spaces, all 1 string):
F2,70,28,09,01,00,00,07,D4,0D,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,01 ,58,00,4d,61,72,74,79,73,00,00,00,00

Break down of that string:
F2,70,28,09 (The table you are referencing in the cluster),01 (the logo you are trying to display),00,00,07,D4 (07d4 both of these make up the year or build number displayed on shutdown),0D (this enables shutdown text),6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C (ALL 6C - these are for the redline),01 (enables the change gear message & shiftlight),58,00,4d,61,72,74,79,73,00,00,00,00,xx (4d through 00 is the 10 character shutdown text) (xx on the end is your checksum. The OSE will put this in for you, you do NOT need it there if using OSE)

That string will give you a 5500rpm redline (gives you time to actually make the shift before hitting 'true' redline), displays 'change up gear' and activates the shiftlight, displays Martys 2004 on shutdown, and displays the HSV logo during startup.

I have most of this hammered out currently to do this in the car. I currently am having some difficulty in getting the data sent to the cluster while everything is in the car. I think the BCM data is interferring.
This DOES WORK 100% on the bench. What does that mean you ask? Pop your cluster out, it takes 2 minutes. Build an interface cable using an old floppy drive cable that you or your geeky friend has hiding under the bed. Grab an OBD2 diagnostic port from a junker car in the scrap yard. Wire it up.

Wiring for the bench -
I'm not going to hold your hand here, but if you look at my pics, and follow this pin out you will be good.
The floppy cable will need to have the last pair of pins cut off. Floppy cable is 34 pin, cluster is 32. Leave the side with the red stripe.

OBD port-
Pins 4&5 to ground
Pin 9 (lower left) is ALDL signal
Pin 16 (lower right) is V+

Floppy cable / cluster interface-
(I'm going to tell you the WIRE number of the floppy cable going left to right starting with red)
1 (red stripe) - GROUND
2 - V+
7 - V+
12 - UART SERIAL ALDL

Now - wire all grounds together. Wire cluster pin 12 to OBD pin 9, Wire all V+ together (I used 12v DC, but you MAY be able to get away with a 9v battery)

Apply power and gawk that the cluster booted. You will have some errors but don't worry about that. Plug your ALDL cable into the obd2 port you just created, and the other end into your laptop. (Make sure drivers are installed. HPT drivers are the same so if you have that on your PC already you are ahead of the game)
Open the OSE program.
Go to options and make sure your com port is correct
On the left here under quick setup
Choose "Vehicle" - ALDL logger / "Interface" - USB ALDL
Close this window
Go up top and click on tools and choose "Listen to chatter..."

Make sure autocalculate checksum is checked, then paste in your custom parameters.

You should be able to look at what I posted for my setting above and determine how to convert the ascii to hexidecimal to fit in the parameters. I just used a simple google search to find an online calc to make the conversions.

The knowledge is here.
As much as I want to throw some jabs at "the other guy" right now, I won't. I did this to give back to the community that has helped me out.
I WANT someone to take what I just posted, and make it better. There is ALOT more that these clusters can do, that I have not getton to yet. Bottom line is the meat and potatoes is here. Most of us just want the shiftlight. I delivered it. Now take this and do more with it.
I will be working on hammering out the "in car" programming sometime this week. This is STILL a much better option that a few have tried to figure out in the past where it involved ripping apart the cluster, removing the eeprom, editing the bin, replacing, etc. And this is STILL a better option than having to mail your cluster out to someone else to pay an exorbant amount for something that can be done in under 10 minutes by yourself.

I do want to give credit where it is due though -
SlickNick13 for treading the path of EEPROM modification. Not the answer but a huge help.
Slimbobaggins for pushing the idea, and finding datasheets
0352Goat for beta testing the shiftlight today
Flashpoint for the cluster pinout of wiring
and most importantly Tazzi in Oz for most of the research that was done on these clusters.

Hell i'll even give some credit to Chris White for pushing me to do this.






Post questions, I will try to answer as soon as I can, but i'm restitching my rear leather seats currently.

EDIT - Do this at your own risk. No harm should come to any clusters, however it is good to practice on a spare cluster and get it to where you want prior to making changes to your cars normal cluster.

Last edited by DSMinVA; 03-24-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:35 PM   #5
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Re: Program your own cluster: a bluff?

I'll just send mine back to Chris. Lol

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:39 PM   #6
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Program your own cluster: a bluff?

AWESOME


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Old 03-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDISKRAD EHT...View Post
I'll just send mine back to Chris. Lol

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I can TOTALLY understand that. You paid him once to do, and he offers you updates. Sure. Especially when you need a $65 cable, and his updates are what, $30?

This IS NOT for everybody. The knowledge is here now for those folks that want to play with it and learn. I have NO PROBLEM with CW selling his services to folks. Not everybody wants to or has the desire to program their own clusters. In which case the OPTION to pay someone else to do it, is well, a good one.

And just to set the record straight, I do not 'dislike' CW. I dislike the fact that he has withheld some very basic, simple information for all these years.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:47 PM   #8
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I will also throw out there that a program has existed since the VY days (pre 04GTO) to program clusters. Clusters are made by Arrow AAPL in AU. They have a diagnosic/programming software that has been around since PRIOR to our cars, but will also program the VZ clusters. It is very hard to get, and NO I do not have it.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:58 PM   #9
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Wow thanks very much, im not good with code and what not at first i though i wouldnt understand this but after reading it a few times and playing with the calculator i understand how you did the code, now the true test would to actually do it to my cluster, which i plan on now, just need to make the cable!!! Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronB...View Post
Wow thanks very much, im not good with code and what not at first i though i wouldnt understand this but after reading it a few times and playing with the calculator i understand how you did the code, now the true test would to actually do it to my cluster, which i plan on now, just need to make the cable!!! Thanks

I should add that for those of you going the floppy/ide cable route, be carefull and take your time when getting the cable down to 32 pins. Its not hard to pull the ribbon off after you cut it down, if you do that, you can usually push it back on. Needlenose pliers will pull the connector back off the cluster when done programming. Don't pull from the ribbon.

Hopefully in the next week myself or even one of you can figure out how to do this with cluster still in the car. Programming it will still remain the same.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:07 PM   #11
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Interested to see where this goes! Good job so far.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:15 PM   #12
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Screen shots of the settings, and also a screen shot of what you should see when you send the program



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Old 03-24-2013, 04:29 PM   #13
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with the "6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C" setting the shiftlight to 5500, what would the code be for say 6500, or something different. Not sure how this code works.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:33 PM   #14
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Great !!!
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:43 PM   #15
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I Smell Competition.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMinVA...View Post
And just to set the record straight, I do not 'dislike' CW. I dislike the fact that he has withheld some very basic, simple information for all these years.

See, here is where I disagree with you. I'm all for the DIY, hell i even spent close to $3000 in tools just to do my turbo kit, I swapped the LED's on my car, and have done a ton of work my self. What I don't agree is with the bold statement. It may be something basic for you, because you had all the knowledge from contributors and was able to crack this down. That doesn't mean that Chris has to feel compelled now to post up his knowledge here for free. He did the R&D, spent the hours he did to get what he was able to get out of the GTO Cluster.

I think it is very cool that you were able to crack it down, and if you want to publish it and don't take advantage of it, more power to you.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneslowGTO...View Post
I Smell Competition.

It's not competitions because he is giving it out for free...
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maiden69...View Post
It's not competitions because he is giving it out for free...

That's what your wife said about the floozie tart at the office.

My needs are pretty simple and I appreciate the DIY aspect of infos supplied here. If I could just turn on my shift light without mailing the cluster, and for free, I'd be pretty happy. It was never important enough a thing for me to dismantle the cluster from the car for an update by Chris, but I'm a hobbyist and would probably try to turn it on, for fun, eventually, if it's possible at home.

My Aeroforce gauges have *two* staged shift lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Konnie the Goat...View Post


DIC hacks are old news.

Oh BTW, this hack is super-dee-duper excellent !

Last edited by Wang; 03-24-2013 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:41 PM   #19
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Yes I agree Wang, I would love to display my Whistler 3450 in the cluster, but I suspect the code is similar but different. I would look at how the stereo streams data to the cluster to figure this one out.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:41 PM   #20
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Mike, that's a photoshop by me, doesn't exist
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REBinc...View Post
Mike, that's a photoshop by me, doesn't exist

Shhhhhhh!!! He had everyone going LOL
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:47 PM   #22
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TY to Konnie for cleaning the thread up. No more pissing matches from anyone, myself included.

I really look forward to seeing what other people can unlock and contribute to this.

Regarding the stated RPM, I do not recall the formula for that. I know the value gets set high and then divided by the PMM that is seen on the VSS. I think it was 2 or 3.
Try changing all to 6B's and see where the shift point is set at.
It's raining here, and my stock tires are extremely bald or I would try it myself. Things will be easier for me after Tuesday when my wheels arrive.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REBinc...View Post
Mike, that's a photoshop by me, doesn't exist

Ahh SOB you got me!
I thought it looked a little funny, and the displayed info was a little larger than the area on the LCD, but figured WTH.
Not to mention thats a hell of alot of data to stream to the cluster.

Would be cool though. Maybe someone can take what I put out and make it a reality to some extent.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:07 PM   #24
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:17 PM   #25
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F2,70,28,09,05,00,00,00,00,00,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,6C,01 ,58,00

No shutdown text or year/build, Pontiac logo on startup, and shiftlight *should* be on and active. No way for me to test the last part currently.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:37 PM   #26
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Awesome, staying tuned for more updates.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:57 PM   #27
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One more question for you, you say you need to have drivers installed, then I am guessing you are saying HP Tuners? Can this be done without HP Tuners? What drivers are needed?
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:03 PM   #28
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By the way, which SAE spec and standards documents are using to figure out the codes? I have access to most of them but i have never been able to find much of any use besides basic protocols and hardware design. Or are they GM specific and not in the SAE documentation?
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:21 PM   #29
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This is a tremendous amount of work and time, thank you for the efforts.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
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One more question for you, you say you need to have drivers installed, then I am guessing you are saying HP Tuners? Can this be done without HP Tuners? What drivers are needed?

USB drivers need to be installed on your computer just like any other USB device. I was saying if you have HPT you do not need to install any other drivers as the HPT drivers are the same (FTDI drivers)
They do come with the cable, but its best to get the newest ones off the web. A link is provided on the cd that comes with the cable (if you get the same cable I did anyway)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Chicken...View Post
By the way, which SAE spec and standards documents are using to figure out the codes? I have access to most of them but i have never been able to find much of any use besides basic protocols and hardware design. Or are they GM specific and not in the SAE documentation?

To the best of my knowledge these are GM specific. Better yet they are Holden VY/VZ specific.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aikidoshadow...View Post
This is a tremendous amount of work and time, thank you for the efforts.

Thank you. Credit is due to all the other folks too, i'm not a lone ranger. The info is out there for all if you are willing to look for it. I have more than 80 hours of searching and reading the webs, and compiling info. I was able to take all that I learned for searching, add some of my own inginuity, reverse engineer some of the codes I had, and come up with a working solution.
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