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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-11-2019 08:28 AM
Nothubertjfarnsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st04GTOowner...View Post
Why couldn't you carefully cut the stub bearing race off with a cut off wheel? I know you would have to be careful not to cut the stub but if you cut about 7/8 of the way through the race then chisel it the rest of the way off. Why is there a separate bearing and race anyway? The new bearings look like a one piece deal. Is this a new design from the old bearing? How would you replace this new design bearing if it doesn't come apart like the old design? You couldn't get the stub off.

it's easier removing the race with the bearing splitter, and the new bearings are the same design, they just come assembled.
07-11-2019 07:27 AM
1st04GTOowner Why couldn't you carefully cut the stub bearing race off with a cut off wheel? I know you would have to be careful not to cut the stub but if you cut about 7/8 of the way through the race then chisel it the rest of the way off. Why is there a separate bearing and race anyway? The new bearings look like a one piece deal. Is this a new design from the old bearing? How would you replace this new design bearing if it doesn't come apart like the old design? You couldn't get the stub off.
07-08-2019 05:11 AM
TheMealOnWheels Man, so glad y'all posted this! I'll be attacking this on the passenger side, where a previous owner broke a stud. I already have the new bearing and hub awaiting install, I just want to get my Brembos ready to do it all at once. Again, thanks for posting, everyone!

Maybe I missed it, does anyone have a list of relevant torque specs for the fasteners going back in? Axle 8mm allen bolts, the 32mm nut, etc?
06-09-2019 09:11 AM
73blazer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothubertjfarnsworth...View Post
nah, it's just another saturday with a few beers.

Beer certainly helps, with a cigar as well.
06-09-2019 09:04 AM
Nothubertjfarnsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73blazer...View Post
It's definitely not a job for the faint of heart.

nah, it's just another saturday with a few beers.
06-09-2019 08:35 AM
73blazer Just to add to this good write up. A few notes from my experience

No need to remove the axle from the diff, I just tied mine up to the top of the coil spring out of the way.

I had the special tool. WHich I think on cars driven in the rustbelt, is probably required, I don't think I'd have gotten that bearing out of the control arm without the tool. It took the tool, with a 3/4 drive ratchet, with a 4' 1.25"dia pipe on that, plus heat with a torch, to get my bearing to even budge.

Some had questions on how to use the tool. Remove the 4 parking brake bolts from the brake face (two torx on top, two 15mm on bottom), run the bolts in and out from the back side many times to clean up the threads. Your tool has 4 standoffs that screw into the back of the plate in those park brake thread holes. . two long, 1 short and 1 med. The two long ones go in the rear most holes, and you can see where the med and short ones go then. Bolt your handled steel plate to those standoffs, bolt the triganle threaded rod to the steel plate, and use the supplied bearing pusher steel (looks like a washer) to run that bearing out. To put the bearing in, use the supplied bearing puller screwed into the end of that giant threaded rod along with the supplied thrust bearing, and pull your bearing back in. It does help alot if you throw your bearing into the freezer for a couple hrs. Mine ran right in super easy doing that with the tool.

The tool can be used on the car at least to get the old bearing out, put the new bearing in. YOu cannot use the tool on the car to press the stub back in, that is the reason the book procedure wants the control arm off so you can properly support the inner bearing as that stub is going in. But the heat bearing and freeze stub seems to work pretty good, I did that, then just taped the stub in with a rubber mallet and enough threads were on the back of it so I started using the stub nut to keep pulling the stub all the way in, run the nut down, remove, stack some washers on it, run the nut down, repeat....etc. Of course you need the proper size washers, which I had. Don't just beat the stub all the way in without support to the back side of the bearing or you'll just wreck your new bearing.


To get the old bearing race off the stub, this type of puller is the best type for that.


I had a full OTC bearing puller set with various sizes and types of pullers. Helps to have the right tools, pulls right off with this.


Also, this cheap advance auto socket fits that nut without having to grind it down. And they all seem to stock this nut in the stores as well. It's so cheap, it's already super thin walled!


It's definitely not a job for the faint of heart. There's quite a bit involved and it takes quite a bit of time and some weird tools help alot, but it can be done without too much issue.
06-01-2018 11:36 AM
Assplay? Would a press come in handy back there?
06-01-2018 09:13 AM
Nothubertjfarnsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS2-GTO...View Post
So many rentals.

autozone and harbor freight looooves meh.
06-01-2018 09:12 AM
LS2-GTO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothubertjfarnsworth...View Post
https://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823586

i posted this last year. used a punch for the hub flange, didn't have any issues deforming or mushrooming anything. you can use a big brass punch if yur scurrd of that happening, though.

So many rentals.
06-01-2018 08:54 AM
Nothubertjfarnsworth https://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823586

i posted this last year. used a punch for the hub flange, didn't have any issues deforming or mushrooming anything. you can use a big brass punch if yur scurrd of that happening, though.
06-01-2018 05:21 AM
LongRifles I'm going through this very process now as Im upgrading the entire rear end to the 9" G Force/Strange setup along with the heavier duty axle stubs and flanges.

Getting the old stuff out can suck, but it will suck less with a gear puller, bronze/brass mallet, and a big ball peen. If you look at the axle stub you'll notice it has a center drill feature. Used to support/locate the piece when it was made. You stick the geat puller stud in that and grab the inner side CV cup with the fingers. No beating or cussing. It'll pull the cup right out.

Now the axle. Lay the mallet (brass or bronze only!) against the stub, then smack the sh$t out of it with the ball peen. A few good wacks and your home free. If you have help, have them catch the hub. When it pops for good its going to fly off the car.

I did this last night. I loath wheel bearing stuff as its almost always a struggle. This wasn't bad at all.

Hope it helps.
04-09-2016 03:23 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth the bearing is actually easy once you learn how to change it. why would you risk issues with a used bearing and hub flange?
04-09-2016 02:45 PM
zppeacock My 2004 a4 had bad rear wheel bearings, I bought a used rear control arm and avoided the issues of changing the bearing, just swapped it today and the other side is making some noise now.

Luckily my 2005 m6 shows no signs of bearing noise yet.
04-09-2016 10:37 AM
Nothubertjfarnsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahoo...View Post
You put the bearing race/driver set behind the bearing and pop it towards you just enough to get the slide hammer attachement in?

no, you won't be able to get the slide hammer to budge anything at first.

you use the bearing press to pop it loose so it will move. ideally you could use the bearing press to remove it alltogether, but there's just not enough room.

the reason you use the race driver set is because the bearing press and it's various cups/attachments won't fit by itself. you use a race driver disk in the back of the bearing and put the bearing press over it, have a cup on the outside, and proceed to crank away until the bearing starts to budge.

then finish it off with the slide hammer.
04-09-2016 06:14 AM
Wahoo
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreadpirateroberts...View Post
you use the discs from the bearing race and seal driver set in conjunction with the bearing press to "pop" the bearing free. if you just try using the slide hammer it won't budge.

once it pops and starts to move, the slide hammer in conjunction with the axle bearing remover will get it out.

You put the bearing race/driver set behind the bearing and pop it towards you just enough to get the slide hammer attachement in?
04-08-2016 05:07 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth you use the discs from the bearing race and seal driver set in conjunction with the bearing press to "pop" the bearing free. if you just try using the slide hammer it won't budge.

once it pops and starts to move, the slide hammer in conjunction with the axle bearing remover will get it out.
04-08-2016 05:04 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...?checkfit=true

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...?checkfit=true

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...?checkfit=true

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...?checkfit=true

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
04-08-2016 04:56 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahoo...View Post
So bearing puller

http://m.harborfreight.com/blind-hol...ler-95987.html

Im having trouble finding a bearing pressing tool?

What other tools? I want to try to price everything or at least get a look at what i need for if i rent them.

no. let me look them up for you.
04-08-2016 07:59 AM
Wahoo So bearing puller

http://m.harborfreight.com/blind-hol...ler-95987.html

Im having trouble finding a bearing pressing tool?

What other tools? I want to try to price everything or at least get a look at what i need for if i rent them.
04-08-2016 07:38 AM
Wahoo
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreadpirateroberts...View Post
I would use autozone rent-a-tools, btw.

slide hammer
bearing puller attachments (looks like little t's on a swivel)
ball joint press
seal driving set (looks like a bunch of aluminum discs with a handle you can screw on and off)
bearing splitter set (may have to go to harbor freight) for getting the race off the seal.

with that combo, you can get the bearing out.

Locally i ordered the bearing and snap ring through advance auto. And they said i have to pay like $180 to rent the bearing puller tool and i get it reimbursed but sounds like i need even more tools so i cant 8imagine what the upfront cost would be to rent all the tools.
04-07-2016 05:44 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth I would use autozone rent-a-tools, btw.

slide hammer
bearing puller attachments (looks like little t's on a swivel)
ball joint press
seal driving set (looks like a bunch of aluminum discs with a handle you can screw on and off)
bearing splitter set (may have to go to harbor freight) for getting the race off the seal.

with that combo, you can get the bearing out.
04-07-2016 05:42 PM
Nothubertjfarnsworth don't use an axle socket. find a regular socket of the correct size, it will fit in there.
04-07-2016 05:20 PM
Wahoo You need to modify(grind) a socket to do the job, sounds crazy.
01-17-2013 12:47 PM
PH3N0M If anyone needs help/has questions with this my email is [email protected] please contact me there. I haven't owned the GTO since my fiance smashed it up St. Pattys 2011.
09-30-2011 06:39 PM
hevnne1 I am having a big problem with getting the spline out. I got the axle nut off and the back half acme off with some work, but the frontq yoke or what ever you call it will not budge. I have been attacking the bearing integrity and hopping to find aforgiveness. Any thoughts on how to get the outside yoke out of the rear wheel bering
Tank
Steve
09-30-2011 06:35 PM
hevnne1
Help the rear bearing is winning

Quote:
Originally Posted by PH3N0M...View Post
Remove the snap ring holding the old bearing with 11" long nose pliers.



Then remove the bearing. This is really on there, see post 2 above. (1/2 " bolts n nuts, a big piece of steel behind the bearing, 3 pieces of steel in front to pull it, and washers, etc) BE LIBERAL WITH YOUR PENETRANT OF CHOICE
This is a before pic of the setup

With the bearing out, sandpaper the seat to make sure it's clean. give it a wipe with you're favorite toxic organic solvent then proceed



I have gotten the step when I removed the axle/stub nut from the inner side. I was able to remover he c-ring from the outside, and the darn spindle won't come out. The back half is off with a little work but the fro t will not budge. Anya thoughtful advise, before I take the hole mount arm and bring it I to the shop? Ideally appreciate any help.
Steve

FUN PART, with the bearing in the freezer and torch in your right (or left if you're weird) hand. Heat the bearing seat, this should take about 5 10 minutes. Then throw the bearing in. Should be easy as cake.



Not so fun part...
Now to remove the inner race of the bearing from the stub. Place the stub in a vice. Heat the inner race as much as possible but be cautious (You will find out why shortly). we used an acetylene torch With a tap, hit the inner race around and around in the direction to remove it as much as possible. You are trying to get enough room to get the arms of in there. Yeah once it's up a little you can use this puller to remove the inner race. THIS IS ON SUPER TIGHT. At least as tight as the bearing was on the seat.

***DISCLAIMER***WHEN TAPPING THE INNER RACE NOTE THAT YOU JUST PUT AN EXTREMELY HOT FLAME ON IT AND AS YOU TAP IT, CHIPS WILL FLY OFF, THEY WILL BE HOT. I cannot stress this as they would literally land on my skin and make me bleed immediately. it burned through the skin.

Once the inner race is removed, discard it and put the stub in the freezer.

To install stub, lightly grease the bearing and heat the bearing gently BE SURE NOT to heat the rubber gaskets and melt them, otherwise you can start over, this is not hard to do, but if you're an idiot I guess you'll melt the gaskets, in which case you'll have no idea until you drive the car and it's worse than before. We had a temperature gun that read temperature so we heated the bearing to ~200 which is definitely less than the heat generated from driving friction, so no worries. Then toss the stub back in.

Put the car back together in reverse and you should be good. She'll be quiet and you'll hear you exhaust again, this was such a good feeling and could easily be done in two days (16 hrs total most just waiting for things to chill, and grinding the socket)

Happy bearing changing out!!!

01-21-2010 10:59 AM
PH3N0M
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOATMAN 51...View Post
Good write up, but why is everything so rusty?

Cleveland??? (salt)

I dunno, everything works just fine (now that the bearing is new)

AND NOW I SHALL POST IN THE KILL SECTION........... MUWAHAHAHAHAHAHA
01-21-2010 09:45 AM
GOATMAN 51 Good write up, but why is everything so rusty?
01-21-2010 08:36 AM
PH3N0M Remove the snap ring holding the old bearing with 11" long nose pliers.



Then remove the bearing. This is really on there, see post 2 above. (1/2 " bolts n nuts, a big piece of steel behind the bearing, 3 pieces of steel in front to pull it, and washers, etc) BE LIBERAL WITH YOUR PENETRANT OF CHOICE
This is a before pic of the setup

With the bearing out, sandpaper the seat to make sure it's clean. give it a wipe with you're favorite toxic organic solvent then proceed


FUN PART, with the bearing in the freezer and torch in your right (or left if you're weird) hand. Heat the bearing seat, this should take about 5 10 minutes. Then throw the bearing in. Should be easy as cake.



Not so fun part...
Now to remove the inner race of the bearing from the stub. Place the stub in a vice. Heat the inner race as much as possible but be cautious (You will find out why shortly). we used an acetylene torch With a tap, hit the inner race around and around in the direction to remove it as much as possible. You are trying to get enough room to get the arms of in there. Yeah once it's up a little you can use this puller to remove the inner race. THIS IS ON SUPER TIGHT. At least as tight as the bearing was on the seat.

***DISCLAIMER***WHEN TAPPING THE INNER RACE NOTE THAT YOU JUST PUT AN EXTREMELY HOT FLAME ON IT AND AS YOU TAP IT, CHIPS WILL FLY OFF, THEY WILL BE HOT. I cannot stress this as they would literally land on my skin and make me bleed immediately. it burned through the skin.

Once the inner race is removed, discard it and put the stub in the freezer.

To install stub, lightly grease the bearing and heat the bearing gently BE SURE NOT to heat the rubber gaskets and melt them, otherwise you can start over, this is not hard to do, but if you're an idiot I guess you'll melt the gaskets, in which case you'll have no idea until you drive the car and it's worse than before. We had a temperature gun that read temperature so we heated the bearing to ~200 which is definitely less than the heat generated from driving friction, so no worries. Then toss the stub back in.

Put the car back together in reverse and you should be good. She'll be quiet and you'll hear you exhaust again, this was such a good feeling and could easily be done in two days (16 hrs total most just waiting for things to chill, and grinding the socket)

Happy bearing changing out!!!
01-21-2010 08:35 AM
PH3N0M First off I take no responsibility if you injure yourself, others, or kill someone while doing this. As well if you car is still broken after I take no responsibility.

Ok so I haven't been able to access photobucket and didn't want small pics until now so here goes.....

First jack up the car and I suggest using jackstands,

then remove the wheel(19 mm),

Next remove the caliper bolts removed (7/8)

Hang the caliper preferably use wire to keep pressure off the brake line otherwise it'll hang by that, which could cause further problems... and remove the rotor


Remove the 6 bolts off both ends of the half shaft (8 mm allen), BE SURE to mark the half shaft at each end so you know how it lined up, see pic below

Half Shaft

Stub End (blurry)

With the half shaft off, remove the nut holding the rear end of the stub on(32mm, shaved OD of the socket, see pic) this is on pretty tight, use a bar in the lugs to keep the stub from spinning. breaker bar on socket, pipe on that and don't drop a nut(well DO drop the nut off the stub, oh, well, nevermind)
NUT
SOCKET


and pull the rear half of the stub off. Should just pull right off with a little force.

For the front half I used two steel bars and a few shims as I went to remove the stub and inner race of the bearing. prop the bar between the stub and i believe the parking break (be aware that this is your PARKING BREAK) and make a rowing motion, it'll push out little by little. The shims are for keeping your angle correct, otherwise you'll make too much verticle force and start to bend the bars(this may not make sense, but once you're this far you'll get it).
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