Looking at suspension options for fitting wider tires and not knowing exactly what height I wanted led to my air suspension decision. Having a set up I could adjust at the push of a button sounded like fun.
Rear bags are Slam Specialties SS-6
Front bags are UAS Aero Sport
5 gallon 5 port AirMaxxx air tank
4 corner AirMaxxx V2 manifold valve
Twin Viair 350C compressors
The controller is Arduino based
The interface is an app on my Android phone (MIT App Inventor2)
Shocks are Koni adjustable
2005 MBM 6spd Single front mount GT45 turbo. Kept A/C, didn't move the battery and it has a real air filter.
Referencing what GTOguy531 did, but not liking the big hole in the floor, I started with some universal airbag axle brackets. The spring perches had to be removed from the chassis and the swing arm. After positioning the upper mount on the body, I made a little fixture representing a fully compressed bag to position the lower bracket. This set-up left room for the air fitting at the top of the bag (stationary) that I was able to elbow up into the trunk with a small hole and grommet for the line. This still gave me plenty of travel and the smaller SS-6 bags allowed more room for tires and a slightly firmer ride. They are still only at 50psi for normal ride height. The airlines come up into the trunk on either side of the fuel tank up against the forward passenger bulkhead.
Goal was to keep as much of our minuscule trunk space available as possible. Didn’t want to give up the spare either. This 5 gallon tank was my best compromise for largest capacity and least impact on cargo space. It barely holds enough to run the bags up to my high service height setting from drive height if it’s full. In practice, to get to high usually involves some compressor run time and waiting. Brackets were welded to the fuel tank cage to mount the tank with required pass through holes in the trim cover. Pressure sensor and switch were both remote mounted on an airline with a T to hide them off to the side.
Compressor(s) are plunked down off to the side in the open for cooling.
Manifold is tucked in above driver’s wheel well next fuel tank while allowing access to shock adjuster.
Controller and relay box are behind driver’s side bulkhead above factory rear amp. The USB programming port is positioned at the rear edge of the bulkhead where it can be readily accessed.
Plan A was modifying a set of GTO struts replacing the spring with an airbag. GGGGOAT hooked me up with a pair of used strut assemblies to begin modifying. I was hoping to be able to swap in airstruts for the old struts and be done. Once installed, they only provided ¾” of compression travel from drive height. Minimum requirement for airbags is around 1.5” with 2” preferred. They were pretty.
Airlines were run through the passenger compartment under the passenger rocker molding. The unused hole in the firewall had to be enlarged to accommodate a grommet for battery line, two front airlines, fuel pressure wires and WBO2 wires. An aluminum line passes into the wheel wells through the fixturing holes behind the strut tower.
I needed to get the top of the airbag higher into the car or the bottom lower. 1994-2004 Mustang Caster/Camber plates have the same M16 strut top mount and eliminate the large block of rubber below the strut tower. The cup on the underside of the strut tower had to be removed and the flange around the strut pass-through had to be hammered down. The Mustang mounts come with various spacers and bushings. A new bushing was turned to space the air bag top plate down from the new strut mount hardware. My previous design had a Delrin bushing for centering the upper airbag mounting plate on the Koni strut shaft. The new spacer bushing was cupped to capture the Delrin bushing that now supports the corner weight. If the Delrin fails, the steel bushing will simply go metal to metal with the airbag plate.
I had a few millimeters the lower plate could have come down towards the tire, but with nearly 2” of compression travel it wasn’t worth the effort.
How comfortable is the ride now? Also how does it handle around corners? Awsome work! It looks like a very clean Install.
The ride quality has greatly improved. Despite my previous struts having less than 6K miles since new bushings and bearings, I was surprised by how much noise went away with the new setup. The rattle and banging over our bad Michigan roads is gone. Getting rid of that big block of rubber that quickly takes a set is worth the effort even if you stay with coil springs. As for corning, I'll have to pay more attention when I drive it next and push it. Can't say I noticed any difference in the way it corners driving back and forth to work last week.
With the compressor and the air tank, you should consider a train horn!
No. I don't use the horn that's in it
Originally Posted by zech912...
Originally Posted by ATITOOD...
Originally Posted by Glynn...
Besides the cool suspension setup and great looking Monaro (very nice), what happened with the tires?
You mentioned going wider, were you able to?
I went 285s. Widened 18" wheels, mini-tub, notched control arms, shock spacers and didn't touch the fender lips. I am able to lower it down over these tires with a comfortable clearance margin that I'm sure somebody else would say a 315 would fit.
The final delay was the realization the strut brace wasn't going to fit under the caster plates without some changes. On the plus side, it is now tied into the upper strut mount and acts as the spacer.
A chassis shop recently released a new fixed top mount with a sperical bearing to replace the rubber block for the GTO. Would have gone that route had it come out a couple weeks sooner. In there promo pictures, the strut brace is absent so I expect it requires similar clearancing.
This morning I got pretty aggressive on the curves and corners. I'm not able to quantify how much better it corners. There seems to be less body roll and it has improved poise corning on uneven pavement. My guess is a lot of that is the new Konis and the spherical bearing at the top. It is clear there hasn't been any negative impact. I don't get that bottoming out feeling anymore when I sloppily toss it into a right turn intersection.
The 1/4" camber plates started bending on me. I assume they were mild steel (1008-1010). To fix it, the adjustment holes were shortened, more material added around the slots and the plates were cut out of 4130 chromoly. For good measure some weld on reinforcements doubled the thickness across where the originals bent.
I think someone (ACCLR8N) should start build kits for this....just sayin. or sell the plans to air ride and make a boat load of money
2006 m6 phantom black GTO (RIP):
kooks long tube headers
kooks cat-less mids
bassani cat back
BMR drag Bags (removed)
2006 M6 Phantom Black (Mongoose 2.0)
Kooks LT headers
Kooks off-road cat less mid pipes
QTP remote cutouts
Hinson motor mounts and trans mount
NGage dash mount
Thanks for your appreciation. There are a couple companies out there that will build a kit for the GTO. Unlike either of them, I will share any information or details to anybody interested. My set up involved a lot of cutting and welding. There is no going back.
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