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Old 07-13-2019, 12:14 AM   #31
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2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 21

Originally Posted by DaBBG...View Post
I have had issues for 2 years now with my camber changing routinely, ruining many many tires. Had to make some tabs to keep the knuckles in place.

I had this happen to me also when autox. Made some half moon shape inserts out of 3/16" thick aluminum to fit tight in the slot space at upper clevis bolt. Than smeared lots of blue loctite on the small camber adjuster bolts and tightened everything really tight. This way there is no movement, its all locked in.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:14 AM   #32
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2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 30

The rear tie rods are not tie(s) they are toe rods which should be self explanatory. There should be little to no toe, when you get your numbers the rod is locked down and you will find the inner eccentric bushings difficult if not impossible to turn. The front looks like a camber issue (a cheap way to check for excessive toe is to pull turns on a black top parking lot; there will likely be some (normal) squeak but if it sounds like 3 rats in a water bucket it's out) there is an 8mm screw at the top of the spindle, it locks the camber by making firm contact with the strut or in your case the coil over body. With it setup the camber in relation to the spindle/strut can not go more negative. It is (in theory) possible to pull those threads, not likely but if you look at everything and still have a problem you didn't look at everything. Was there also an eccentric top mount with the coil overs? If that is not torqued to spec the mount can turn in it's place, since there is 16-18 between it and the bottom mount it takes very little to can the setup and the locking screw on the spindle will not help you in that case. May be a bushing thing, if you are still on OEM's take them out, throw them as far as you can, find them and throw them again, repeat until you are no longer homicidal toward the engineer that thought that BS was a good idea (I'm out to 2 miles and still got it in for that sob). Are the radius rod bushings after market and if so the caster adjustable type? That is another thing that can move around. Do not take the shop's word on everything torqued, trust me on this one; if it is less than a cake walk (such as the outer rear CA bushings) don't say I didn't warn you, check everything. As far as alignment you will need to look long and hard for a shop that will setup anything outside of factory spec; it is purely a liability issue. After 3 attempts, 3 different shops, specing the numbers I wanted, watch the service managers write them on the order, instructing them on the adjustments (and note it) (4 camber bolts on the front, 4 bushings rear) going ON TO THE SHOP FLOOR showing the tech('s) exactly what to do and not getting even close to my numbers I bought the tools and now do it myself. The last (small, privately owned) shop gave me the 411 on setting up out of factory spec; strictly CYA. The tools are simple, no black magic involved and not very expensive (less than the cost of 2 alignments) but it IS a pain in the azz and not for everyone. Many will say such as 'That's just the way ____ are' and be happy with blowing it off and bad mouthing, if it's that annoying sell it to me. While it may be true in many cases that does not mean it has to stay that way, you don't change plugs due to a miss, still have it and blame the new plugs as well because 'That's just the way ____ are' when the real problem is the flaky wire on #3.
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