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Old 01-31-2019, 06:57 AM   #271
Kfxguy
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Some updates. I went ahead and bought new Borg Warner 4l65 sprags. One is supposed to be wider. I got my 4l65 hardened and shot peened input and output shafts. I also got the drum in yesterday. More on that in a minute.

I pulled the heads off least weekend. I didn’t like what I saw. The rear two cylinders are running a bit leaner. They were way too lean. I bought some ls9 head gaskets and bought a snap on digital tq wrench. I mention that because it made things much easier to deal with on torquing stuff. I’ll be paying for it for a long time (it was expensive lol) but hey, better to have the right tools.

My ideas on the lean condition is I’m sending the injectors to have them flowed. The higher flowing ones are going on the rear cylinders. I’m also considering putting one heat range colder plug in those two cylinders. I talked to a few experienced and knowledgeable people on this and they seemed intrigued and curious if it would help. In theory it should.

I may have mentioned it but while it’s apart I’m putting a tial wastegate in and a bigger downpipe. Might as well. I also have to revamp the location of my crossover v band. I’ve been having to fight leaks at that connection because I didn’t leave enough room to get the clamp on properly.

Here’s my head gasket leak. You can see a trace of gasket missing.





I forgot to mention. I went ahead and picked up a turbo cam. I wanted something a little more mild and suited to boost. A guy I met through ls1tech sold me a very very low mileage summit ghost cam. Has a very mild lope and will idle at a lower rpm. Plus should work better with boost. Hell, he made 450rwhp in a 4th gen f body with ported heads, fast intake and this cam. Stock ls1 bottom end. Ran ran 11.10 @ 122 all motor. It was a bit lighter than mine tho. Missing pretty much all the interior and having just a drivers seat. But still. Made excellent power.


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Old 01-31-2019, 08:34 AM   #272
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Never really been a fan of digital torque wrenches. I like then old fashioned click.

Cam should work fine, just get springs to suit obviously.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:06 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo...View Post
Never really been a fan of digital torque wrenches. I like then old fashioned click.

Cam should work fine, just get springs to suit obviously.

Using the same Springs I have. This new cam is supposed to pull to 7000 also.
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:12 AM   #274
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Little update. I had the car apart do it got all kinds of love while it was apart. So I mentioned the cam and ls9 head gaskets. I went ahead and changed the flex plate to a heavy duty one which weighs 1lb more. Hope that extra weight stabilizes the idle better. Trying to get it to idle as stable as stock with a touch of lope. Understand that I dropped almost 10lbs if rotating weight when I did the stall. While the flex plate was off I changed the rear gasket and rear main seal. It was leaking. I put my tial wastegate on too. I also hear barrier wrapped my charge pipes. I put led bulbs in my high beams (thatís would a tenth and a mph right there lol). I bell mouthed the turbo side of my inter cooler. Itís reallt thick with a sharp edge so bell mouthing it should smooth air flow out. I also finally added grills inside my sap grill trim. Whew. This was a lot of work I did to the car. I also clearances some areas of concern for things just getting too close. I rebuilt the crossover pipe. I had the v band flange too close to the block and it was impossible to get the clamp on correctly. I now have 9.5lbs of boost with less doing than before AND I added my nifty adjustable doodad to the wastegate so I can turn it up. Should give me another 2-3psi if I need it.

I just went drove it. So far no issues. Iím extremely surprised because anytime you do this amount of work, something happens. So my initial thoughts are.... it drives better, idles a little better, no fuel smell at idle (wife will appreciate that) it still pulls to 7000rpm and it ďfeelsĒ like it still pulls just as hard, if not, a little better. I have not touched the tune. Oddly it drives almost perfect. Afr is a tad leaner (15.2) and Iím ok with that. My fuel consumption gauge says itís using .25 gallons per hour less at idle. Iíll fine tune that shortly. Hereís and idle clip.


https://youtu.be/lur17L9d77o

Last edited by Kfxguy; 02-23-2019 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:26 PM   #275
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Little update. I had the car apart do it got all kinds of love while it was apart. So I mentioned the cam and ls9 head gaskets. I went ahead and changed the flex plate to a heavy duty one which weighs 1lb more. Hope that extra weight stabilizes the idle better. Trying to get it to idle as stable as stock with a touch of lope. Understand that I dropped almost 10lbs if rotating weight when I did the stall. While the flex plate was off I changed the rear gasket and rear main seal. It was leaking. I put my tial wastegate on too. I also hear barrier wrapped my charge pipes. I put led bulbs in my high beams (thatís would a tenth and a mph right there lol). I bell mouthed the turbo side of my inter cooler. Itís reallt thick with a sharp edge so bell mouthing it should smooth air flow out. I also finally added grills inside my sap grill trim. Whew. This was a lot of work I did to the car. I also clearances some areas of concern for things just getting too close. I rebuilt the crossover pipe. I had the v band flange too close to the block and it was impossible to get the clamp on correctly. I now have 9.5lbs of boost with less doing than before AND I added my nifty adjustable doodad to the wastegate so I can turn it up. Should give me another 2-3psi if I need it.

I just went drove it. So far no issues. Iím extremely surprised because anytime you do this amount of work, something happens. So my initial thoughts are.... it drives better, idles a little better, no fuel smell at idle (wife will appreciate that) it still pulls to 7000rpm and it ďfeelsĒ like it still pulls just as hard, if not, a little better. I have not touched the tune. Oddly it drives almost perfect. Afr is a tad leaner (15.2) and Iím ok with that. My fuel consumption gauge says itís using .25 gallons per hour less at idle. Iíll fine tune that shortly. Hereís and idle clip.


https://youtu.be/lur17L9d77o

You may want to consider an ATI damper if you don't already have one.
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:09 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothubertjfarnsworth...View Post
You may want to consider an ATI damper if you don't already have one.



I have an SLP one
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:53 AM   #277
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Ok well. I was riding around and something just broke. Not sure what. Stuck on side the road as I type this. The only thing I can tell is I was on it and it went “bam” and then it didn’t want to pull anymore. It like something in the trans locked up. I thought I blew the motor but I looked at my logs. After and timing were good and the engine was still running for a few seconds after. No rattles. I have it gas and it’s like it was in a bind and didn’t want to go. Then the engine dies and it won’t turn over. It will make about half a revolution almost like the battery is dead. My guess is something in the trans let go and welded it’s self. I’ll undo the flywheel bolts when I get home and see if the engine will crank. Keep you guys posted.
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Old 02-24-2019, 12:50 PM   #278
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Keep you guys posted.

Please do. Hope the motor is okay
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:06 PM   #279
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Broke it a loose with a breaker bar. Engine fired right up. Didn’t seem to be missing but there was a bunch of metal racket. Probably the input shaft or pump. Pulled both rear plus and they looked good so I don’t think the engine is damaged. In my log that I was running it showed my afr was good like around 11.2 so I don’t think it’s the engine. Stay tuned.
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Old 03-03-2019, 05:06 PM   #280
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Didn’t get time to fool with it this weekend. Maybe next. I did crank it and put it in gear. Nothing but a bunch of noise. Definitely trans. I was thinking could be the engine. I glad it isn’t. I’m not ready to put another engine in it.
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:10 PM   #281
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Pulled the trans tonight. Input shaft was destroyed.











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Old 03-07-2019, 11:30 PM   #282
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Time to go get it rebuild

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:44 AM   #283
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Surely that shouldnt happen ?
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:27 AM   #284
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Time to upgrade to the (current 4l60 stage)+1 stage rebuild.
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:51 AM   #285
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Time for a t56
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Ha ha! You fool! You fell victim to one of the classic blunders - The most famous of which is "never get involved in a land war in Asia" - but only slightly less well-known is this: "Never go in against a Sicilian when death is on the line"! Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! Ha ha ha...
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:24 AM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo...View Post
Surely that shouldnt happen ?

nah it shouldnt. I "upgraded" the input shaft to the "tempered glass" version. So I bought a induction hardened 4l65 shaft. So evidently the hardening of it was done incorrectly or just made it too hard, offering no torsional flex. So it shattered. Had i left my stock shaft it, it definitely wouldnt have broke so quickly.
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:26 AM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerNoodle...View Post
Time for a t56


thats a couple steps backwards lol. i do that, i would trash the driveshaft and everything behind it.not to mention the main shaft in a t56 is known to be weak/expensive. the 4l60 stuff is much cheaper to fix.
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Old 04-21-2019, 08:06 PM   #288
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Originally Posted by ACCLR8N...View Post
Please do. Hope the motor is okay



Ok. Iím back. Long story. Iíll try not to bore you. So. The convertor was destroyed also. Cost me almost $500 to fix that. I called patc and explained to them What happened. That their ďstrongerĒ input shaft shattered in less than 25 miles. They graciously gave me my $59 back. Lol. O well. Lesson learned.

While it was apart I went ahead and put both sonnax billet shafts in. Lowered the stall to 3200 from 3400. Changed all the bearings and bushings. Anything that was suspect got changed. I left out number 6 checkball so Iíll have a better over run apply. I put it back in. Trans works perfect. Very pleased. Shifts nice. But I have a rattling noise when I put it in reverse. Wtf. Fast forward a couple weeks. I found out that when the shaft broke it pushed everything forward so hard that it bent the flex plate towards the motor. So this weekend I trailered it to work and partially pulled the trans on a lift. Muuuuch easier than doing it on the ground. I put my stock flexplate back in for now. I had ordered another sfi unit but fed ex is taking two weeks to deliver it. They basically suck. I couldnít wait any longer so I thatís why I put the stock one back in.

Now Iím having tuning issues. Lol. If it ainít one this itís a mother. (Autocorrect, meant to say another but hey, thatíll work too lol). So now that I have no exhaust leak, Iím easily getting 10-12lbs. For some reason as I go higher kpa, my kpa fueling is further and further off. Like my map sensor isnít calibrated correctly or something. Let me just tell you, I seen 13:1 and 15:1 in my wideband several times and it made my butt pucker and my foot let off REAL quick. Luckily I found the issue. Now Iíve got to work that out now. But once I added more fuel, even at 10.8 to 1 afr, 10-12lbs.....pulls hard AF! No doubt Iíll get a 10 second slip now.
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:12 AM   #289
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If in doubt get a mityvac or similar and check the map sensor. ( obviously ensuring you get the mityvac that can do pressure too, not just vac lol )

Most sensors should be linear throughout their range, although I've seen some that are for most of the range, but not their entirety.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:36 AM   #290
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Ok. Iím back. Long story. Iíll try not to bore you. So. The convertor was destroyed also. Cost me almost $500 to fix that. I called patc and explained to them What happened. That their ďstrongerĒ input shaft shattered in less than 25 miles. They graciously gave me my $59 back. Lol. O well. Lesson learned.

While it was apart I went ahead and put both sonnax billet shafts in. Lowered the stall to 3200 from 3400. Changed all the bearings and bushings. Anything that was suspect got changed. I left out number 6 checkball so Iíll have a better over run apply. I put it back in. Trans works perfect. Very pleased. Shifts nice. But I have a rattling noise when I put it in reverse. Wtf. Fast forward a couple weeks. I found out that when the shaft broke it pushed everything forward so hard that it bent the flex plate towards the motor. So this weekend I trailered it to work and partially pulled the trans on a lift. Muuuuch easier than doing it on the ground. I put my stock flexplate back in for now. I had ordered another sfi unit but fed ex is taking two weeks to deliver it. They basically suck. I couldnít wait any longer so I thatís why I put the stock one back in.

Now Iím having tuning issues. Lol. If it ainít one this itís a mother. (Autocorrect, meant to say another but hey, thatíll work too lol). So now that I have no exhaust leak, Iím easily getting 10-12lbs. For some reason as I go higher kpa, my kpa fueling is further and further off. Like my map sensor isnít calibrated correctly or something. Let me just tell you, I seen 13:1 and 15:1 in my wideband several times and it made my butt pucker and my foot let off REAL quick. Luckily I found the issue. Now Iíve got to work that out now. But once I added more fuel, even at 10.8 to 1 afr, 10-12lbs.....pulls hard AF! No doubt Iíll get a 10 second slip now.

Now that its running, you need to give me a ride in it.
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Old 04-22-2019, 09:16 AM   #291
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Now that its running, you need to give me a ride in it.

Soon as I get my afr dialed in, youíre more than welcome
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:50 PM   #292
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I decided I might need more exhaust flow. The down pipe I had was crushed and hammered to fit in between the frame and the manifold. I bought 3.5” oval tubing. Should pick up a bit of flow. I drove it around the block and you can now hear the exhaust turbine. Never could before. I didn’t get on it because the steering bolt was grabbing the exhaust wrap. I have to address that. But in the mean time, here’s some pics. Came out pretty nice.












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Old 05-13-2019, 08:46 AM   #293
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Very nice. How did you execute the joint? Mine comes together further along where it gets round again. The end result is I have drop the manifold and downpipe in the car at the same time.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:10 AM   #294
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Nicely done.
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:02 PM   #295
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Originally Posted by ACCLR8N...View Post
Very nice. How did you execute the joint? Mine comes together further along where it gets round again. The end result is I have drop the manifold and downpipe in the car at the same time.

This made it much easier to work on. Before this I would have to unbolt the wastegate. Which is beneath the down pipe, so it was really fun to deal with. Insert sarcasm. So now all I do is undo the band clamp at the middle of the car.....

(remove pin in the pipe too, I made a pin that I drilled a hole where the pipes slip together, the pin go in the hole keeping the pipes from sliding apart, band clamp goes over pin to retain it)

Slide the rear dual pipe exhaust off that mid pipe. Then remove one 14mm bolt on the mid pipe bracket to the trans exhaust mount. Then the mid pipe slides off the down pipe. I had a piece of 3.5” swedged and then ovaled (spintech mufflers will do custom stuff like that) and it slides on the oval down pipe. Once you remove the mid pipe, the downpipe comes right out. Easy. I had to do this last night and it took me about 6-7 minutes to have it off.


On the construction, from turbo back here’s what I did:

90 degree 3” stainless. Then I bought a 3” to 3.5” stainless transition. I cut it super short. Then the 3.5” mates to the 3.5” round to oval transition pipe. Then I have 3.5” oval 45 degree bend from cx racing. I did have to cut it and put a partial pie cut in it to angle it one way. Then it connects to the oval to round Convertor. Then it has another short 3.5” to 3” transition to my 3” mid pipe. Whew. Yes it was a lot of work. But I won’t be starving for flow in that area any time soon. I gotta make another one now tho. I messed up and showed my buddy that has a gto and I’m building him a turbo kit too. He was oriogetting my original down pipe. Blah. More work now. Lol.


the mid pipe has a swedged section that slips over the oval part of the down pipe. so thats a slip fit (if it wasnt clear in the first paragrah lol) and it leaks badly right now. I'm working on sorting that out. The swedged part is just too big and its sucking air and my widband is after it, getting thrown way off. I bought a stainless band clamp from autozone (nickson part number 95312 3.5") and that made it much better but not perfect yet. i know what my next step is. ill have to flatten the swedged part against the pipe so its a tighter fit.

Last edited by Kfxguy; 05-14-2019 at 10:00 AM.
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