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Old 05-06-2018, 06:38 PM   #1
Kfxguy
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My single turbo build thread

Ok fellas, I’ve been jacking around long enough. I’ve always wanted to turbo a car and originally I was buying a 4th gen camaro and buying a turbo kit but long story short, I never found one and I blew my initial budget when I found this gto. I’m prematurely creating this thread for a few reasons. 1) it’s going to motivate me more. If I don’t feel like I have something pushing me, I may wander off course. I’m easily distracted lol. 2) I welcome any and all helpful info and advice. I’ll need some walking through on this I’m sure. 3) you don’t see many single turbo builds.

I received my head unit Saturday. It’s an on3 7875 turbo. I figured if I bought that first it’ll lock me in. I’ve been really dreaming of an ls3 swap because it’s no doubt easier but the end result of this will make the car faster and more driveable and worth more money if done right.

A little bit about me. I’m kind of a jack of all trades. I do pretty much all my own work. I port my heads, build engines, transmissions, and rear ends. I do a little bit of paint work. I have a powder coat setup. I have a mill/lathe and a Ac/dc tig welder. And just about everything in between. I’m not the best at welding but I can stick some metal together. I’ll likely be a better welder by the time I finish this project.


On to the car. My goals are to make about 600rwhp. Or somewhere in that area. I want the car relatively quiet when driving around. I don’t care how loud it is when I get on it. Drivability is of utmost importance and gas mileage is a factor too. Right now I have a 227/234 stage 2 btr cam in it. I’m gonna change the cam in probably two weeks. That will soak up some of my money until I sell this cam. I haven’t decided what can or who I’m going with yet but I was very happy with the last Texas speed cam I had so I’m thinking Texas speed.

The first things I need to do is delete the power steering cooler, move the battery to the back and move the coolant tank to the passenger side. I also need to relocate the computer. The turbo will be mounted on the driver side. Seems like too much crap in the way in the passenger side.

Next purchase besides the cam will be the fuel pump and fuel injectors. I haven’t bought either of those yet because I’m not sure which ones to get. If your familiar with sloppy mechanics I’ve been watching a lot of his videos and reading his info. He does this stuff very cheaply and he’s got some impressive stuff out there. He never mentions anything about needing injector data. That’s why I haven’t bought injectors yet because I thought the data was super important but it’s never mentioned and he uses decapped injectors and hp tuners, he has them flowed but that doesn’t give all the data. So is it not that important? What fuel pump should I go with? Initially I don’t want to run a return line. I’m looking for simple and I’m not worried about making 800+rwhp. For now anyways. Lol.


**********update update update********

Parts list. (This May save you some money)

On3 7578 journal bearing turbo
Ace race parts:
304 stainless
Schedule 10 2.5” straight pipe, 1ft
Sch10 1.5” long radius 90 degree elbows (5) (4 cylinders and one for the wastegate)
44mm eBay wastegate https://m.ebay.com/itm/44MM-Wastegat...72.m2749.l2649
Cheap eBay $23 blow off (not loud either) https://m.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-ADJ...72.m2749.l2649
(2) 3” 45 degree bends, (2) 90’s
(2) 2.5” sch10 45 degree bends, (1) 90
Box o stainless 2.25 exhaust pipe for x over
(1) 2.25 ace race parts bellows (the accordion looking one)
I bought an eBay oil kit but didn’t like the oil pressure line. I ordered a 24” line with a 90 on the turbo side. Tapped the plate for a fitting, the plate right above the oil filter. Used a -4an to 1/8 pipe fitting. Drilled and tapped it. Loctite it in. I did use the drain. I bought a 1/2” pipe to 5/8 hose 45 degree fitting.
Three stainless o2 bungs
One cheapie $20 boost/vacuum digital gauge (yea it’s accurate, and I have some ocean front property to sell you too lol)
2.25 vband flange and clamp in stainless
Cobalt ss 2 bar map sensor gm# 12580698
One 12” o2 extender wire for front driver side 02
60lb Siemens deka injectors (I have injector data if you need)
K&n RU2510 air filter
eBay turbo blanket
Aeromotive 11565 fuel pump. *note, it was not a direct plug in and the screen will not work. I cleaned and reused my screen and soldered and heat shrink the wires. BE CAREFUL of the oring on the pressure outlet of the pump!!!! Mine tore when someone else installed it for me. Left me stranded. I found some fat orings that fit and used two instead of one. Worked perfect.
eBay exhaust stud kit







Here’s a pic of my little budget turbo. I “splurged” and got the $400 unit instead of the $300 unit. Lol.



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Last edited by Kfxguy; 09-11-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:24 AM   #2
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Love me some sloppy mechanics, not just what Matt does, but what all the other guys that share their builds do. Good luck.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:52 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookmeup272...View Post
Love me some sloppy mechanics, not just what Matt does, but what all the other guys that share their builds do. Good luck.

I was just listening to some of his videos on the way to work. About decapping injectors. I think I have a set of truck injectors. If not I could just send my gto ones out. I like not having to run adapters and spacers. And not spending $400+ lol.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:58 AM   #4
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I do know if you're planning on running decapped, you want to send out 2 sets to get flow matched because chances are the flow on some will be terrible as well as the pattern (even though some people argue the pattern doesn't really matter).
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:13 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cookmeup272...View Post
I do know if you're planning on running decapped, you want to send out 2 sets to get flow matched because chances are the flow on some will be terrible as well as the pattern (even though some people argue the pattern doesn't really matter).

Iím just exploring my options. I really donít like the idea of it so Iíll probably buy injectors. I just donít know which ones I need because of injector data.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:45 AM   #6
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A single walbro 450 will support what you want power wise. I would just go with some siemens deka 60lb injectors. I made 750whp with 60's pretty much maxed out. They're pretty cheap but a very good and common injector. The battery relocation is really easy and straight forward. Just did mine this past winter.

Your build should be a fun one. Good luck with it!
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cucky4...View Post
A single walbro 450 will support what you want power wise. I would just go with some siemens deka 60lb injectors. I made 750whp with 60's pretty much maxed out. They're pretty cheap but a very good and common injector. The battery relocation is really easy and straight forward. Just did mine this past winter.

Your build should be a fun one. Good luck with it!

The problem with that pump is Iím going to have to run a return line which I didnít want to do at this time. I may have to scale back on my power goals. Honestly Iíd be happy with about another 100rwhp. I ainít trying to set the world on fire lol.
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:23 AM   #8
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My original plan was to run the largest pump I could get away with that I don’t need a return line for and then add a voltage booster. May be a hack way of doing it, but it’ll get me by for a while.
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:45 AM   #9
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Why would a walbro 450 require you to run a return style system? I guess I will suggest running the stock pump and a DW320. A friend of mine ran that on his APS Twin turbo LS3 without a return system and it worked fine. I'd suggest just doing it right the first time around and running a return style system.
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cucky4...View Post
Why would a walbro 450 require you to run a return style system? I guess I will suggest running the stock pump and a DW320. A friend of mine ran that on his APS Twin turbo LS3 without a return system and it worked fine. I'd suggest just doing it right the first time around and running a return style system.

I read where it will over run the regulator. (Walbro 450)
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Old 05-08-2018, 04:42 PM   #11
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Good luck on build! I'm about to remove my double pumper system if you're interested in a complete setup. Also have 2 sets of injectors up for grabs. Both sets have been ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:41 AM   #12
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I’ve got a few small things on order. I went my my buddy’s house that builds ls cars and trucks and picked up a few parts I’ll need. He works out of his shop at home and builds some pretty fast stuff. He’s always got extra parts laying around and we always helping each other out do he hooked me up with a few truck manifolds and a front timing cover so I can install a drain. Nothing real interesting yet. This is the boring part, collecting parts and mapping stuff out.


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Old 05-10-2018, 10:14 AM   #13
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Call me crazy but part hunting is where all the fun is. I'm too much of a cheapo to buy retail so I'll buy used twice on Sunday if the price is right.
I'm doing h/c/I on a 454 right now and will be in about $800 from the Holley 750 to the hyd roller 502 cam.

I'll turbo a car one of these days
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:31 AM   #14
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Used can cost you more in the long run, depending.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:47 AM   #15
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So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. I’m not sure if I’m sticking with this because I am picky and I don’t like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but I’m thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Here’s some pics. Truth be told, I’m a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol





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Old 05-18-2018, 12:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
I received my head unit Saturday. It’s an on3 7875 turbo. I figured if I bought that first it’ll lock me in. I’ve been really dreaming of an ls3 swap because it’s no doubt easier but the end result of this will make the car faster and more driveable and worth more money if done right.

Really Good choice, in the photos I attached that's the same turbo I have except mine is a tad more expensive. The "7875" compressor and turbine housing is going to be well suited to your needs. With my stalled auto and smaller, 9.9:1 compression 5.3 it starts making boost around 3K rpm. Since you have a slightly bigger motor and more compression it'll help spool the turbo a little faster making the "driveability" more to your liking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
My goals are to make about 600rwhp.

I want the car relatively quiet when driving around.

Right now I have a 227/234 stage 2 btr cam in it. I’m gonna change the cam in probably two weeks.

600rwhp with proper fueling and tuning is no issue I make that at 16lbs, unlocked converter, through a big 4l80. If you are an LS2 w/ M6 then you'd probably make that with 13lbs

My car is not quiet so I cant help you with that but I can tell you this. If you plan on staying with a dual exhaust get the biggest pipes you can 3" duals if possible. If you are keeping your A/C then the drivers side is the way to go. I have had no issues with my ECM or anything within' a few inches of the hoodstack melting or malfunctioning. Although everything that is close such as wires or plugs has 2 or more layers of heat wrap around it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
The first things I need to do is delete the power steering cooler, move the battery to the back and move the coolant tank to the passenger side.

Great idea, I bought an aftermarket one from Hayden Auto and did my own braided lines, saved a lot of space and cleaned up the complicated lines underneath. The coolant overflow was taken out and I know have a NOS energy drink can mounted behind the headlight for the coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Next purchase besides the cam...

fuel pump and fuel injectors...

decapped injectors...

What fuel pump...

What cam are you going with? Since the cam isn't your main source of power now you can really scale back the aggressiveness of it. When I was N/A I had a 232/236 .570" cam with my LS2, now I have a 220/220 .563" 112+2 baby cam in my 5.3 and it ROCKS!!! You don't have to go with big lobes, in fact if I ever switch my cam out I'm stepping down to a 218/218 with more lift. If you want another cam but want to save a couple bucks sloppy stage 2 cam from jegs is always a lot cheaper than a custom grind.

I run a single DW300c in-tank pump and 60lb cts-v injectors. This was plenty to get my 5.3 to 600rwhp

If you want to go the decapped injector route just make sure you get a set of flow matched ones, get a hold of 2 sets to grind down and send to a guy named Eric Durr who flow tests de-capped injectors for Matt Happel. Along with this make sure you either get abase map for decapped injectors from Matt because they require a different style of tuning than just "bigger" injectors you buy.

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Last edited by Cyclone Jr; 05-24-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:09 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. Iím not sure if Iím sticking with this because I am picky and I donít like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but Iím thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Hereís some pics. Truth be told, Iím a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol

Yes there are better welds. There are also a worse out there still holding on. One guy on here built a turbo setup with aluminized pipe and a flux core mig. He went 5 years before he had a leak.

With that being said I wouldnít use those. Welding to cast is tricky. Also you can make manifolds out of sch 10 stainless elbows and pipe easily. Short dough too.
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. Iím not sure if Iím sticking with this because I am picky and I donít like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but Iím thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Hereís some pics. Truth be told, Iím a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol

I'd say you did a good job of it. Did you preheat the manifolds?
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:00 PM   #19
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I'd say you did a good job of it. Did you preheat the manifolds?

Yes and no. I welded about and inch. Moved. Welded some more. By the time I ran my beads the thing was very hot. If it donít hold, Iíll build another one. But itíll hold up. Everything is nice and thick. That pipe on there isnít thin exhaust pipe. Itís 1/8 wall pipe.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclone Jr...View Post
Really Good choice, in the photos I attached that's the same turbo I have except mine is a tad more expensive. The "7875" compressor and turbine housing is going to be well suited to your needs. With my stalled auto and smaller, 9.9:1 compression 5.3 it starts making boost around 3K rpm. Since you have a slightly bigger motor and more compression it'll help spool the turbo a little faster making the "driveability" more to your liking.



600rwhp with proper fueling and tuning is no issue I make that at 16lbs, unlocked converter, through a big 4l80. If you are an LS2 w/ M6 then you'd probably make that with 13lbs

My car is not quiet so I cant help you with that but I can tell you this. If you plan on staying with a dual exhaust get the biggest pipes you can 3" duals if possible. If you are keeping your A/C then the drivers side is the way to go. I have had no issues with my ECM or anything within' a few inches of the hoodstack melting or malfunctioning. Although everything that is close such as wires or plugs has 2 or more layers of heat wrap around it.



Great idea, I bought an aftermarket one from Hayden Auto and did my own braided lines, saved a lot of space and cleaned up the complicated lines underneath. The coolant overflow was taken out and I know have a NOS energy drink can mounted behind the headlight for the coolant.



What cam are you going with? Since the cam isn't your main source of power now you can really scale back the aggressiveness of it. When I was N/A I had a 232/236 .570" cam with my LS2, now I have a 220/220 .563" 112+2 baby cam in my 5.3 and it ROCKS!!! You don't have to go with big lobes, in fact if I ever switch my cam out I'm stepping down to a 218/218 with more lift. If you want another cam but want to save a couple bucks sloppy stage 2 cam from jegs is always a lot cheaper than a custom grind.

I run a single DW300c in-tank pump and 60lb cts-v injectors. This was plenty to get my 5.3 to 600rwhp

If you want to go the decapped injector route just make sure you get a set of flow matched ones, get a hold of 2 sets to grind down and send to a guy named Eric Durr who flow tests de-capped injectors for Matt Happel. Along with this make sure you either get abase map for decapped injectors from Matt because they require a different style of tuning than just "bigger" injectors you buy.





I think Iím going with a 216/220 114 lsa sloppy stage one cam. I was planning on doing decapped injectors.
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:43 AM   #21
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Just wrapped this up a couple weeks ago. We have a few similar things going on. I plan to build the fuel system down the road but for now its currently on a DW300c drop in pump (340lph) which is exactly what you're looking for I think.. along with decapped flex fuel injectors flowed at 88lb. I've just been driving around on a base tune so far so not much to speak of as far as power, but it does drive great. It's a built 402 LS2, T6 billet 80mm combo (VS racing billet 80, WG, BOV, and FMIC). The hotside looks a little wonky because we built it with the intention of keeping the ECU in the factory location, but once we were finished we just didn't like it being that close so we moved it inside the kick panel. The only thing I actually deleted was the windshield washer fluid reservoir, I can live with that.

Oh, and as far as being quiet and nice to drive.. 4" downpipe to a 4" loudvalve, 4" to 3" reducer, 3" single to dual 2.5" exit Y pipe going to the stock catback, should be interesting



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Last edited by BT802; 05-26-2018 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:17 AM   #22
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Figured I should add that I wasn't trying to hijack your thread, just throwing some input in. I found it never hurt to see or hear about any other builds during the process. I'm sure your build will come out great, you seem to know what you're doing and what you want out of it.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:04 AM   #23
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Figured I should add that I wasn't trying to hijack your thread, just throwing some input in. I found it never hurt to see or hear about any other builds during the process. I'm sure your build will come out great, you seem to know what you're doing and what you want out of it.

Fellas, your more than welcome posting your pics and builds. I really appreciate it and your not hijacking by any means. It is very useful to me as it gives me ideas. Thanks a bunch!
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:16 AM   #24
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Just wrapped this up a couple weeks ago. We have a few similar things going on. I plan to build the fuel system down the road but for now its currently on a DW300c drop in pump (340lph) which is exactly what you're looking for I think.. along with decapped flex fuel injectors flowed at 88lb. I've just been driving around on a base tune so far so not much to speak of as far as power, but it does drive great. It's a built 402 LS2, T6 billet 80mm combo (VS racing billet 80, WG, BOV, and FMIC). The hotside looks a little wonky because we built it with the intention of keeping the ECU in the factory location, but once we were finished we just didn't like it being that close so we moved it inside the kick panel. The only thing I actually deleted was the windshield washer fluid reservoir, I can live with that.

Oh, and as far as being quiet and nice to drive.. 4" downpipe to a 4" loudvalve, 4" to 3" reducer, 3" single to dual 2.5" exit Y pipe going to the stock catback, should be interesting




Yea Iíve been dragging my feet a little bit. Well sort of. I try to do a thing here and there. Iíve got a lot to prepare the car for the install. I have to move all kinds of stuff. I started on my boost gauge install last night. When itís done Iíll post it up. I bought a cheap ass gauge for now that will get me by but as time goes on I will upgrade what I need to. Iím not looking forward to moving the battery to the back, thatís my main holdup. O and moving all the guild and coolant lines. My main goal is to move everything I can away from the hot side. Iím on the fence about wrapping stuff. I saw a fire just a few weeks ago caused because the wrap got saturated with trans fluid before he saw the leak. It was a gto also, oddly. A very nice one. Luckily it happened at work while the car was on the lift. I was actually sitting in the guys car while he had just cranked it after changing the starter. I smelled it because smoke started coming through the ac vents. Whew. That was scary.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:39 PM   #25
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Today I pulled the driver side header off for mock-up. Not surprisingly my manifokd didn’t fit. Lol. The front side was an easy fix. I had to bend the power steering line inwards. No big deal. But the rear. Omg. It was a good but off. Was hitting the steeeing shaft. So I started over. I cut that whole manifold apart and redid it. I had to pie cut a few sections in the rear. Ton of clearance now. I’m now worried the down pipe out of the manifold (that will connect to my rear crossover pipe) is going to hit this big sqare nub on the block. I’m seriously considering just lopping it off. Not sure what it’s purpose is anyways. I’ll have to post some pics tomorrow. I just tacked the manifold together this time during mock-up.
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:43 PM   #26
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I’m not sure if I can say I got the hard part done, but after a solid day and a half of working on this thing I’ve got the manifold 95% complete. I’m pretty happy how it turned out. Except for my welding lol. I’m working on that. I had to go around the steering shaft, using several pie cuts. The way I’m going about this, everything is going to tuck up nicely and the exhaust out the turbo will be run to the exhaust on the car. Hopefully it’s quieter than it is now, it should be and that will add to the sleeper factor. Heres the reworked manifold. I haven’t welded it yet. It’s all tacked. My pie cuts are welded though.


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Old 05-28-2018, 06:02 AM   #27
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Here’s my pie cuts. Before welding I did grind a trench in each joint and then I welded from inside also. Hopefully it’s strong enough.

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Old 05-28-2018, 09:08 AM   #28
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I know you are pretty far along, but I recommend doing the crossover in front of the motor. Keep the heat away from the trans and power steering as well as better ground clearance.

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Old 05-28-2018, 09:42 AM   #29
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Well if I do that then my exhaust goes by:
My steering lines
Trans cooling lines
Radiator hoses
And then I’ll have to put the 05-06 radiator and fans in. And move a bunch of stuff. Even more than I planned. At this point if I changed my mind on how I’m doing it, I’ll just throw the towel in. The exhaust crossover is going to be 2.25” and it’s not going to hang as low as the exhaust does now. If anything I’ll have more clearance.

If I already had an 05-06 radiator and fans I might would have done it that way. The crossover isn’t going near the pan, it’s going near the power steeeing rack and the bell housing. I’ll likely wrap it too. I dunno. After yesterday I’m having second thoughts about doing this anyways. I may put the car back together and save up some more money and put a newer style aluminum radiator in it and move all the stuff.
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:07 AM   #30
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What if i Run the crossover around the transmission?
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