Testing ball joints and inner control arm bushings - LS1GTO.com Forums

Vendors


Go Back   LS1GTO.com Forums > GTO Tech > Suspension/Steering/Brakes

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 09-14-2018, 06:12 PM   #1
Abs
Freedom Fighter
 
Abs's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Souderton, PA
Posts: 724


Offline
Testing ball joints and inner control arm bushings

I am buying RR bushings on both ends. My front left RR bushing is original, dry and cracking. The front right was replaced after a fender bender about 8 years ago and it is leaking fluid, so these have to go. The RR bushings at the LCA are rotting on both sides. This is all easy to see.

How do i tell if I need new ball joints and inner control arm bushings. I got under the car today and they look fine, but I figure there might be other ways of checking othe than just an eye test. I ask because it would be easier to buy a new whiteline control arm if I have to replace more than just RR bushings.

However, those prefabricated arms cost $300+ a pair, so if my joints and bushings are good, I would rather not spend it and just do the RR bushings.

Appreciate your help in advance!
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-14-2018, 07:39 PM   #2
Nothubertjfarnsworth
ಠ_ಠ
 
Nothubertjfarnsworth's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NWI
Posts: 34,234
Premium Member


Offline
They are unloaded ball joints, so just jack the car up and yank on the tire/wheel and see if the joints have play.

Same with the control arm bushings, i would think. See if there is much give when you try to move it around.

FWIW, i don't remember seeing many reports of these parts typically going bad on GTO's. Mostly just the strut mounts and bearings take dumps, which do handle the weight.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-14-2018, 07:45 PM   #3
Abs
Freedom Fighter
 
Abs's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Souderton, PA
Posts: 724


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothubertjfarnsworth...View Post
They are unloaded ball joints, so just jack the car up and yank on the tire/wheel and see if the joints have play.

Same with the control arm bushings, i would think. See if there is much give when you try to move it around.

FWIW, i don't remember seeing many reports of these parts typically going bad on GTO's. Mostly just the strut mounts and bearings take dumps, which do handle the weight.

Thanks, I had the car on ramps and it had no play at the ball joints. I will see if it does at the inner control arm tomorrow. The LCA control arm bushings are definitely worn though as well as the front RR bushings, as these are also wear points on our cars.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 09-14-2018, 09:50 PM   #4
Assplay?
U can touch it if you want to
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: The basement of the science building
Posts: 534
Premium Member


Offline
The LCA bushings are not as intimidating as they might appear.

Some careful planning and a dash of creativity, anyone can do them. Not necessary to buy the pre bushed replacement arms.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-15-2018, 04:48 AM   #5
Duckman
Kollar Racing Products
 
Duckman's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 5,379


Offline
As long as you have the tools to press the old bushings and ball joints out the oem arms are easily rebuilt. I prefer using the W53175 Whiteline bushing...the two piece construction is easier to install then the W51233. The problem with 51233 is if the bushing isnt square in the arm when pressing you destroy the new bushing. Ball joint wise...I have Pedders in stock right now...RoadSafe is about 2 weeks out. The RoadSafe is genuine Holden in a RoadSafe Box and is better quality then Pedders. Whiteline is always in stock
__________________
THE NORTH AMERICAN DISTRIBUTOR FOR LOVELLS & ROADSAFE PRODUCTS

NEED TECHNICAL SUPPORT? SUPPORT IS AVAILABLE EVERYDAY 8AM-8PM EST

631-902-2276
http://kollarracingproducts.com/
[email protected]
GREAT PARTS, GREAT PRICES, FAST SHIPPING.....
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-15-2018, 06:08 AM   #6
Glynn
Pontiac Fanboy
 
Glynn's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 977


Offline
Don't forget to factor in the labor savings in those pre-fabricated Whiteline arms.
Being able to just bolt in new upgraded bushings without screwing around with a press and cutting and cleaning and painting (if you care) was very satisfying.
__________________
2018 M6 Mazda3 GT Hatch
Zoom-Zoom DD

2015 A6 SS w/:
Holden Bits|Warranty-Friendly Trinkets
Baby Mobile

2006 M6 GTO w/:
|Vararam|Ported TB/Intake|Kooks LTs|Magnaflow 2.5"|Pedders XA Supercars|Hotchkis Sways|4P CTS-V|LT1-S Twin|Billet Pro|Square 275/35 on 18x9et42|HINSON E&T Mounts|Whiteline, SuperPro, and Pedders Bushings|
John Doe's old ride. "1LE" GTO in progress...

1997 Grand Prix GT Sold
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2018, 07:19 PM   #7
Abs
Freedom Fighter
 
Abs's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Souderton, PA
Posts: 724


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glynn...View Post
Don't forget to factor in the labor savings in those pre-fabricated Whiteline arms.
Being able to just bolt in new upgraded bushings without screwing around with a press and cutting and cleaning and painting (if you care) was very satisfying.

Yeah that's why I was checking on the longevity of the ball joints and inner LCA bushings. If they are wearing, I would prefer to just get the pre-fab arms.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-10-2019, 11:01 AM   #8
blackgoat90
Registered User
 
blackgoat90's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 493


Offline
Send a message via AIM to blackgoat90 Send a message via Skype™ to blackgoat90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckman...View Post
As long as you have the tools to press the old bushings and ball joints out the oem arms are easily rebuilt. I prefer using the W53175 Whiteline bushing...the two piece construction is easier to install then the W51233. The problem with 51233 is if the bushing isnt square in the arm when pressing you destroy the new bushing. Ball joint wise...I have Pedders in stock right now...RoadSafe is about 2 weeks out. The RoadSafe is genuine Holden in a RoadSafe Box and is better quality then Pedders. Whiteline is always in stock

Is there a performance/longevity difference between W53175 and W51233? A long time ago I supposedly had the Noltec equivalent to W51233 installed but I am chasing down some tire wear/road noise issues so trying to weigh all my options, I'm at 93k and have seen a front right suspension collision before so I am thinking doing tie-rod ends is step one (still on the ones that came with the car). It looks like the prefabbed arms have W53175. The collision damaged my radius rod bushings so had all those replaced at 30k with Noltecs.
__________________
06 pbm m6
intake and LM2 catback, LTs , KWv3, hotchkis and lots of bushings

  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-10-2019, 11:58 AM   #9
Duckman
Kollar Racing Products
 
Duckman's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 5,379


Offline
W51233 Whiteline and N51233 Noltec are SIMILAR but not the same. Both use a Metal Shell but the Whiteline uses a significantly better poly. The OLD Blue Noltec dries out with age...turning to powder or falls apart
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-10-2019, 12:47 PM   #10
blackgoat90
Registered User
 
blackgoat90's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 493


Offline
Send a message via AIM to blackgoat90 Send a message via Skype™ to blackgoat90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckman...View Post
W51233 Whiteline and N51233 Noltec are SIMILAR but not the same. Both use a Metal Shell but the Whiteline uses a significantly better poly. The OLD Blue Noltec dries out with age...turning to powder or falls apart


If that's true I will need to look into replacing both radius rod bushings, strut mounts, rear subframe bushings, diff insert, and the front LCA bushings...
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-22-2019, 03:36 AM   #11
KM06
Registered User
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 30


Offline
Bushings are relatively cheap, front CAs are easy to drop. Since it is apart replace all of them and sleep well. As long you are in the area look at the sway bar links; if they are OEM or stock replacements they are likely to be bent, Whitelines have much more beef
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the LS1GTO.com Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in


Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:57 PM.




Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.