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Old 01-12-2017, 01:45 PM   #1
taylorjwbrown
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led conversion issue

hey guys, did a full conversion on my car with leds, everything except the headlights and fogs....okay so not a full conversion...

i'm having a problem with the TC and cruise turning off and not coming back on. i installed everything WITHOUT the load resistors and it worked fine for a drive or two. Then, i drove at night and the issues came in when i turned the lights on. TC turns off and wont come back on and cruise wont work either. so i installed the load resistors (rl-650) on the rear tail lights, across the ground and parking light circuit (brown and brown/white or tan, whatever the other color is brown/tan). the rear tails are 1157-r3x1w. No matter which way i wire the resistor (yes i know it doesn't matter) nothing works like its supposed to. Regardless if the resistors are installed or not, TC and cruise don't work. So i said screw it i'll go back to stock bulbs in the rear, same issue. the markers i have up front are 1157-a24 tower style. so now i'm thinking that its not just the rear tails, that its because they aren't canbus style...

When i go to superbrightleds.com and search by vehicle, it brings up regular LEDs and canbus LEDs, according to many websites, our vehicles are canbus. I didn't know that when i ordered, so all my bulbs are regular and not canbus, anyone else have this issue with regular bulbs? or am i the only one that didn't order canbus bulbs lol.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:33 PM   #2
CGMike
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I have LEDs or HIDs everywhere but the tail lights because of this issue. Try pulling the negative terminal off the battery and resetting the computer. It might have thrown a fault and needs to be cleared.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:53 PM   #3
taylorjwbrown
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Thanks man, didn't even think of that. I'll give it a shot!
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGMike...View Post
I have LEDs or HIDs everywhere but the tail lights because of this issue. Try pulling the negative terminal off the battery and resetting the computer. It might have thrown a fault and needs to be cleared.

So I pulled it and so far it's working.
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:16 AM   #5
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I could be wrong, but I remember reading something similar from a couple year old thread. The LED's have less resistance that the stock bulbs do. Due to the decrease in resistance, the car "thinks" one of the taillight bulbs is out and causes the symptoms you are seeing. Back in the day, people would add resistors to the LED's to fix it (might even be kits out there now). Turn signals will often blink faster as well if converted to LED's due to the reason as well. There are aftermarket relays that fix that particular issue. Once again, I may be completely wrong, but I think that is what I read in the past.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:27 AM   #6
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You are correct. There's a blinker relay now that will fix the blinker issue and resistors to add to the tails but the resistors didn't work for me and I'm not sure why. Maybe I had a bad bulb. But I went back to stock tails. smurf it lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthIndy_Goat...View Post
I could be wrong, but I remember reading something similar from a couple year old thread. The LED's have less resistance that the stock bulbs do. Due to the decrease in resistance, the car "thinks" one of the taillight bulbs is out and causes the symptoms you are seeing. Back in the day, people would add resistors to the LED's to fix it (might even be kits out there now). Turn signals will often blink faster as well if converted to LED's due to the reason as well. There are aftermarket relays that fix that particular issue. Once again, I may be completely wrong, but I think that is what I read in the past.

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Old 01-13-2017, 06:46 PM   #7
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Just to add to this discussion, the stock computers read the load on the bulb circuits to determine if a bulb is out. On my Mercedes, this gives a bulb fault error on the IPC. On my GTO, this will cause TC and other misc. problems. The addition of resistors to cure this cancels EVERY SINGLE benefit of LED bulbs. The low power consumption is offset by the resistors in order to fool the computer. The low heat output is also offset by the resistors, which has the added drawback of shortening the otherwise long life of the LEDs. If you plan to keep the factory BCM, skip the LED bulbs.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:11 PM   #8
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Resistors have to go on the brake light wires, not the tail lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorjwbrown...View Post
You are correct. There's a blinker relay now that will fix the blinker issue and resistors to add to the tails but the resistors didn't work for me and I'm not sure why. Maybe I had a bad bulb. But I went back to stock tails. smurf it lol

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Old 03-18-2017, 06:13 PM   #9
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Resistors don't shorten the life of the LED's unless you strap it to them so they absorb the heat of the resistor.
LED's last MANY times longer than regular bulbs. Yes, the resistors will make it draw a bit more current than just the LED's, but still less than half of what the regular bulbs draw.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gametech...View Post
Just to add to this discussion, the stock computers read the load on the bulb circuits to determine if a bulb is out. On my Mercedes, this gives a bulb fault error on the IPC. On my GTO, this will cause TC and other misc. problems. The addition of resistors to cure this cancels EVERY SINGLE benefit of LED bulbs. The low power consumption is offset by the resistors in order to fool the computer. The low heat output is also offset by the resistors, which has the added drawback of shortening the otherwise long life of the LEDs. If you plan to keep the factory BCM, skip the LED bulbs.

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Old 03-20-2017, 04:20 PM   #10
5ft24
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And I installed the LED brake lights yesterday. Instead of the high current draw resistor, I hooked the brake light across the coil of a relay. It read about 80 ohms, so current thru it is only 175 ma. It doesn't get hot, so no special mounting requirements. My cruise and TC are now fully functional again. And I only used one since both lights run off one circuit.

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