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Old 09-13-2017, 11:47 AM   #1
DangerNoodle
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TBSS Intake Project Updated

Photobucket = bag of dicks
New thread using Imgur.

This intake will not clear the stock hood .

I did it, so you don't have to. This will only work if you give zero smurfs about your stock hood. Or use some aftermarket one.
I did not try shorter motor mounts, too late to care now.

So to those that didn't read the previous thread, why install the TBSS intake manifold?
• It's cheap • It fits a 92mm throttle body • Tests show it flows better than the LS6.

What I didn't know before starting this project:
Dorman LS2 intake for $400. Supposedly its good, previous Dorman intakes were garbage, apparently they got this one right.
There is an option to have the LS2 snout plastic welded / epoxied to the LS6 intake. $600+ core charge.


Why did I do this? Simple, nobody had.



Here's what you start with:


Cut and plastic weld. (I plastic weld using a soldering iron.)



Don't use this much bondo. Correction, don't use bondo at all!




Days of sanding.


Primed & Ready for hydro dip.




Hydro dipped. (Don't do this inside, keep the water warm.)



Fuel Rails.



TIP: Don't use bondo. The bondo expands and contracts at different temps than the plastic. Leads to cracks in the paint.
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Last edited by DangerNoodle; 10-18-2018 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:50 AM   #2
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WARR 92mm throttle body on intake. (The throttle body required some slight fabrication to lessen the pressure of the dual springs that control the throttle blade.)


LS6 comparison.




Hood had to be cut.

Anteater intake.


This was short lived. The gloss black looks horrible. Flat black now.


Ugly but fuctional.

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 10-18-2018 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:53 AM   #3
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If you can do it yourself, DO IT YOURSELF. I let my friend do the cuts in my hood, this is what I ended up with...



DYNO.


Don't fear failure, unless that failure results with fuel spraying from your fuel injectors, then FEAR IT!
We barely made it through the dyno pulls, the steel brackets I made to hold the fuel rails down would bend under fuel pressure which would allow the O-rings on the fuel injectors to "roll" causing fuel to spray from the fuel rails. Scary ass nightmare.

And to add insult to injury, I didn't compensate the slack in the throttle cable so full throttle was only 81% throttle while on the dyno.

Big THANK YOU! to Andrew's employees. They hooked me up with some fuel injector O-rings. (I ripped 2 while trying to re-seat the fuel injectors).
Also, a shout out to Andrew, he calmly sat in my deathtrap as it would spray fuel on every pull and he let me constantly band-aid the issue after each incident.


Results:
385rwhp by 360rwtq @ 81% throttle SAE

I previously made (stock throttle body, ls6 intake) 383rwhp by 347rwtq @ 100% throttle on a different style dyno so its difficult to use that as a baseline.

These were the mods:
Custom c6 DIY otrcai
92mm Warr Throttle Body
Custom TBSS Intake
SLP under-drive pulley
60 lb fuel injectors
Kooks Long Tubes 1 3/4
Kooks high flow cats
Stock 05 cat back exhaust
stock bottom end
stock 241 heads with upgraded valve springs
Solid motor mounts
Lunati Dual Link bar Lifters
CAM = 223/231, .625/.622 111 LSA
3800 single disk FTI stall
rebuilt 4l65e transmission
single piece aluminum driveshaft
stock 05 diff

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 03-04-2019 at 10:55 AM. Reason: People deserve recognition
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Old 09-13-2017, 03:20 PM   #4
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You need a lil hood bulge or somn.
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:30 PM   #5
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I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:23 PM   #6
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And that's a direct bolt on to an 04?

Jeez that's a behemoth!
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:46 PM   #7
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2 days after the dyno tune I heard a light tapping that matched revs. So I shut her down.

For the life of me I don't know what the tapping was.
Lunati street lifter [72332] failed on driver side.

Drained the Oil. No metal.
Rockers = all intact
Push rods = all straight
Springs = all appear good
lifters = again all appear good
lifters roller tips / cam lobes = no marks
Valves in stock heads = not in greatest shape but aren't bent
pistons = don't show signs of making love to valves

Thanks all for the info / tips, it has been greatly appreciated.
Decided since I had the heads off... lets replace the heads (as cost efficiently as possible).

Progress photos:

Not clean.

All clean.



That "cleaning" was a LOT of effort and a bitch to do. Never plan to do that again.

Got a set of 243s. Took them to a machine shop and had them milled .020
New valve springs and new valves. Went with 2.02 on the intake valves. Thought was, they would take up a little extra space raising the compression ever so slightly. I did not consider quench area at all in that decision making. Oh well.



Last edited by DangerNoodle; 10-18-2018 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothubertjfarnsworth...View Post
You need a lil hood bulge or somn.

All in time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Assplay?...View Post
I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.

Thanks. If it did clear the hood, still not worth it. A lot of work / effort went into this despite how ugly it appears.

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 10-18-2018 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assplay?...View Post
I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.



at least now we all know for sure.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:08 AM   #10
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Heads are on.
Intake is on.
I used COMP CAMS pushrod length checker to measure pushrod length. Came out to being 9 turns which means 7.25 + .030-.050 for preload so I ordered 7.3 pushrods. Ended up getting the 5/16 .080wall trickflows 7.3 length.

Checked and rechecked to make sure all my pushrods were in the correct positions. Hand tightened down the rocker bolts.
Then this is where I smurfed up!
I torqued my rockers down to 22lbs but I Didn't have the Crank positioned for TDC with Piston 1. I had it TDC for Piston 2 After realizing my mistake, I figured I already torqued down the bolts... just keep going. THEN I also realized that with the heads on and some of the rockers torqued down, I could no longer spin the crank by hand, and I don't have a 24mm socket. So again, smurf it, I torqued ALL rocker bolts down to 22lbs.

So now I need to get a 24mm socket so I can turn the crank 180 degrees and double check all the rockers are at 22lbs. So much for following the proper procedure...



It has been a "fun" learning experience since I completed the TBSS intake 3 months ago.

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 01-26-2018 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:44 AM   #11
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any gains?
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Old 10-04-2017, 12:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOGRRRR...View Post
any gains?

Yes?


Last edited by DangerNoodle; 04-11-2019 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 10-04-2017, 12:42 PM   #13
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I'm pretty curious, myself.
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Old 11-23-2017, 08:09 PM   #14
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Curious too
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:43 PM   #15
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damn, thats alot of work, but i hope it pays off in the end for you!
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Old 11-24-2017, 05:27 AM   #16
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So does it feel better down low? Does it idle better? I was thinking about doing a carbon bowl hood and if it’s worth it I’ll change to this intake. I think the Dorman one I have is causing me a very weak idle. I’d like to be able to set my idle at 700-750 instead of 800
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:15 AM   #17
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You guys must’ve missed the thread where he’s been taking his motor apart multiple times...
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:50 AM   #18
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https://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827986


Nothing went well in Oct.

After all the troubleshooting (see posted thread link) I ordered 4 replacement sets of 72332 Lunati lifters.

Never using anything from Lunati again would be ideal, but $200 to solve / rule out the tapping noise seems worth it to me. If it solves the problem, celebrate with copious amounts of beer. If it doesn't, time to cry in a corner.

The lifters arrived today, not sure how soon I plan to do this because I'm working outside and I hate the cold.

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 11-24-2017 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:52 AM   #19
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Switch to Vodka? Isn't that how the Russians keep warm?
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:20 AM   #20
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re

So do you have dyno numbers since getting your speed density tune---danfigg
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:33 PM   #21
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Personally I think your 7.3xx pushrods are too short. I went with 7.400 right at first and had major lifter tap noise and I broke out my length checker and found I neede 7.450.

Just an idea.
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Old 11-27-2017, 06:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Personally I think your 7.3xx pushrods are too short. I went with 7.400 right at first and had major lifter tap noise and I broke out my length checker and found I neede 7.450.

Just an idea.

Well can't rule anything out. Maybe my math was off. Hope not..

Previous pushrods were 7.350 on stock 241 heads.

With 243 heads, I had them milled .020. When I measured it came out to be
7.25

lunati says preload for their lifters is .030-.040

I went with .050 to be safe and used 7.300 pushrods.
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Old 11-27-2017, 06:32 AM   #23
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I'm not saying that I think your problem is incorrect pushrod length, but I will say pushrods are a tad cheaper than lifters. I would try a different length. I also believe I used the wrong size lifters at first, even after checking with pushrod length checker. I went a little bit longer and the valvetrain quieted up and it seemed to run much better.
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:49 PM   #24
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Tapping was a failed lunati lifter (72332).

Swapped the lifters on the driver side. Runs smooth.


Time to head to the dyno!

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 01-26-2018 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:29 PM   #25
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Glad you got your stuff sorted out. My turn!

For sale 1 set of Lunati Street lifters.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:10 PM   #26
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Why did you buy lunati lifters? What’s wrong with the factory ones? They usually last 200k miles......lol. I put a cam in my 5.3 Silverado at 188k miles and reused the lifters. Lmao.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:35 PM   #27
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http://www.advancedinduction.com/LSX...cGMLS2Head.php

do dat.
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy...View Post
Why did you buy lunati lifters? What’s wrong with the factory ones? They usually last 200k miles......lol. I put a cam in my 5.3 Silverado at 188k miles and reused the lifters. Lmao.

My 1st cam swap, stock lifters only lasted 20k miles. They failed and thrashed my cam.

At the time lunati link bar lifters were recommended and were installed with the new new cam. Obviously not what the shop recommends anymore but its what i have.

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 01-26-2018 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 12-14-2017, 03:11 PM   #29
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yeeeech.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:21 AM   #30
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Survived the Dyno!

Results.


Previous setup when I was CAM only on a different dyno
383 rwhp / 347 rwtq

CAM only & TBSS Intake @ 81% throttle
385 rwhp / 360 rwtq

.020 Milled 243 heads & CAM & TBSS Intake
405 rwhp / 390 rwtq

All pulls through an unlocked 3800 stall.

My transmission lasted 2 days of driving after this, there's a chance that my transmission was slipping during this dyno pull as well.


Video is of the 4th Pull.

Dyno pull is long because its a load bearing dyno.
Complete Street Performance

Last edited by DangerNoodle; 03-01-2019 at 08:14 AM.
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