New bearing installation:
Put the dust-cover and the parking brake hardware back together. You can leave the parking brake shoe off for now and slide it back on after the hub is installed just so you don't have to worry about it getting in the way when you're doing method B.
Now, there are two ways to do this. Method A:
You can simply install the new bearing in the housing, drive it in with the seal installation tool, install the c-clip, and hammer the flange back in. There is a risk of seperating the new bearing doing this, though, so you may not want to try and just go to method B, which has it's own tricky part in it's own right.
I have done this first method with aftermarket hub flanges and have never had a problem, however. On the attempt with the stock flange on my blue car, i ended up with the outer seal in the pan under the control arm and the race starting to press out of the bearing.
Method B (the patented T-Bones Goat method)
entails putting the c-clip on the flange FIRST, and THEN installing the bearing on the flange, and THEN putting that whole contraption into the housing. Good news? You don't need to heat anything up to get that bearing on the flange. Use something that rests on the inner race of the bearing but fits over the flange shaft--the old race that you removed from the flange works perfectly, combined with the smaller cup from the bearing press set, and something to rest on top of this, such as one of the seal driver disks or the disk from the bearing press set. The BFH will get this slid on in no-time. Just be careful you have enough room to pound it on without ending up pounding on the end of the shaft and mushrooming it by accident.
Now with a BFH and a steel punch or other tool to transfer the power of Mjolnir's mighty swing to your flange without destroying your wheel studs, pound that bootleg-assembly in. Get it good and seated now.
Now you get to have fun getting that new c-clip to go on. TROLOLOLOL.
Ok, now, you may have to drive the old hub-to-axle flange on, but hey, no biggie. Again, make sure you don't hit the shaft of the hub flange while you're flailing away with your guns and your mighty hammer, or else bearing seperation.
nut goes on, torque to a mightly 221 feet-lubs. (ft/lbs. yes i'm stupid. leave me a alone.)
reinstall the stamped steel do-hick to keep the nut from turning. You may want to stamp it in, stamp the tabs out with a punch since now they are going to be in different spots, remove, stretch the sides back out with a pair of pliers, and stamp it back in again to make sure it grabs the sides and doesn't turn.
Did I miss anything?
Sorry for not having more pictures of this last part, but it was starting to get pretty dark and lighting became scarce. I was also pressed for time to get this stupid job done.