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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I have been learning a lot from all of you and have been having fun with my 06 SRM GTO.

so from my other posts a lot of you know that shortly after I bought the car. I discovered a spun cam bearing.

So Now I am without the ability to drive my newly purchased GTO.
So a quick recovery became a priority.

I found an LS364/450HP crate motor thanks to boost district and started what seamed on the surface as a straight forward swap. (not started yet)

I quickly thought of all the small items that I wanted to get done while it was at it.

The list is huge. so far I have purchased all of the following which is mind numbing after a while (all new parts)
LS7 clutch kit, clutch master cylinder, delco water pump, ls3 intake, fuel rail spacer (so I can reuse my LS2 injectors for now), Hinsen motor mounts, trans mount urathane filler, improved racing oil pan baffle, improved racing pickup tube brace, improved racing oil pan bypass plug, Jegs 4 point steam vent kit, Lucas oil break in oil, mechanical oil pressure guage (to perform preoiling procedure specified by GM, header bolts (ARP), intake bolts, header gaskets, and an MGW-P Short Shifter from Proxes Tuning.

Before this started I had bought a set of wheels for the car, 18" Niche Apex wheels. They were nice but I am not a big
blacked out fan so I stripped the wheels down to bare metal and 3 nights ago I discovered a crack in one of the rears.
Fatal flaw as the car will eventually see some track days. So I called and was able to return the wheels and while I was there I checked out a set of Ace Alloy AFF02 they had in black chrome, one look and I was hooked. So instead of getting my money back I added a little and got some fantastic wheels for the car.

On another front I found a set of Kooks Long Tube Signature Series Headers with the Catted mid pipes for sale at a good price. I made him an offer and it was accepted.

For the chassis I have done the Radius Rod bushings from Whiteline, I have the rear diff bushing filler from white line, Have fresh trans oil, Fresh rear differential oil and friction modifier from Torco, I have already done a driveshaft rebuid kit, and will add all the new bushings as money allows.

I will add some pictures in the next couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This started out as a purchase with the intention of just doing things slowly.
That all changed when I discovered the cam bearing issue.

And now it is a long term project that wil be built to last many many years...
And kick some Mopar ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hadagto yeah it will be but not yet. Funny part was that was first item on the list until the bearing went.
Roshan said it best, "wait until the warranty is up on the crate motor first" since he sold me the motor I think I will follow that advice.
 

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My first GTO had 6,000 miles on it at the end of 2004 when I did heads and cam lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the 364/450 has heads covered as they are LS3 heads. So yes cam is the next big thing. Once she is broke in and I am fully confident no issues I will start looking at cams again.
The other part is being firm whether I want to do NA or go boosted.
Makes a big difference on cams.
 

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So the 364/450 has heads covered as they are LS3 heads. So yes cam is the next big thing. Once she is broke in and I am fully confident no issues I will start looking at cams again.
The other part is being firm whether I want to do NA or go boosted.
Makes a big difference on cams.
theres one wrong answer and one correct answer
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I hear you. Ha, ha.
Believe me the reason I found the motor at Boost District as I was already very familiar with their website.
Roshan told me the reason he had these motors was because he packages them with the LSA supercharger to sell or install.
I also ordered the Hinson Low mount motor mounts to allow a little more hood clearance in prep for the eventuality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
So some history pictures here.
Drive shaft needed rebuilt.
Hand Automotive tire Wood Gas Bicycle part


Test fit of Niche Apex wheels before I stripped tuem and found the crack.
Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Vehicle

recovered the console lid along with replacing some other worn out interior bits.
Rectangle Hood Automotive exterior Tints and shades Beige


The roof of the car was badly oxidized from setting in the arizona sun without any care.
Car Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Land vehicle
 

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Meh...when I built my current motor I primed the oil pump then fired it up. I varied the rpm between 1500 and 2000 rpm up to full operating temp. Then I changed the oil and filter. From the second start I immediately started the tuning process and had been wot by the end of the first day once I had the afr dialed. This was with 15 pounds of boost and a 232/248 cam with over 600 lift. Later I upped the boost, but my point is don’t baby it to break it in. One heat cycle then start getting on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Meh...when I built my current motor I primed the oil pump then fired it up. I varied the rpm between 1500 and 2000 rpm up to full operating temp. Then I changed the oil and filter. From the second start I immediately started the tuning process and had been wot by the end of the first day once I had the afr dialed. This was with 15 pounds of boost and a 232/248 cam with over 600 lift. Later I upped the boost, but my point is don’t baby it to break it in. One heat cycle then start getting on it.
agreed. your break in period should be you beating the piss out of it.
Yeah I hear you.
I use to do this with my bikes when breaking them in.
 
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