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Let's roll
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so aside from the gto's this doesn't work for any newer cars? Would it be possible to switch the solder points to make this work on newer cars?
The program used is written to communicate specifically with the chip that is the heart of the Holden cluster. It would have no idea how to communicate with any other vehicle's cluster.

And if you're talking about something beside the cluster, then nope.

Slow mentioned the 94 LT1's because this cable is designed to communicate with the ALDL bus, which if I recall correctly is what basically everything on the LT1's communicated over, including the ECM.

The ECM's of newer cars doesn't communicate over ALDL. Our cars have a powertrain interface module to talk between the two busses, to communicate with the the ECM.
 

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Another success story here last night :) Took forever for the FTDI cable to show up, but it finally did, and I had the cable together in 10-15 min.

Enabled the shift light, though the factory 04 settings are a little high.

Used the temp gauge preset and fixed the speedometer (though I had previously fixed it with HP Tuners so I'll need to set HP Tuners back to normal).

Also turned off the DRL light since I had disconnected my DRL wiring with the HID install.

Super easy and awesome for $12 and change :)
 

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I just ordered the cable and connector pieces, per the link on the OP...I am thinking it'll be at least a month until they arrive, per the other replies here. Can't wait to get it and turn off this obnoxious airbag light and do the shift light and stuff. Thanks a lot for posting this stuff!
 

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OP - Thanks again for posting this stuff. I received my items in a timely manner and soldered them up today and using the software, the light is off, yay! next is the shift light!

I don't recall if I saw this or not, but one thing you do want to do is secure the USB cable to the OBDII connector's strain relief with some tape or something so that you cannot pull out the leads. I was thinking about this and did it, but must've twisted the cable or something as it pulled out and was like wtf the first time I hooked it up. Probably would've been a better idea to do this part before closing up the connector, to ensure your leads are still intact.

That and, while this seems obvious it's easy to forget, be sure to put the strain relief on down the cable before soldering...yep, did that one, too, lol.

Anyway, nice piece and nice price...thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
You might have cold solder joints because your leads shouldn't pull off really. I did the same thing though with the boot the first time around, palm on face moment for sure.

Glad to see this was useful for you guys.
 

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Cyclone Gray Moneypit
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1,989 Posts
You might have cold solder joints because your leads shouldn't pull off really. I did the same thing though with the boot the first time around, palm on face moment for sure.

Glad to see this was useful for you guys.
Preheating the work piece is a wonderful thing ;)
 

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Underway
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723 Posts
i put mine inside of a project box. zip tied the cable on the inside where it goes out, and added a little hot glue for good measure.

 

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Another success story here, thanks to the OP for putting together this write up! It was almost too easy! :)
 

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Looks like it might work, but the "Like FTDI" concerns me as its probably not an actual FTDI chip.

Edit: it says uses an FTDI chip...so give it a shot
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I would agree. TTL and +5V so you should be good to go but I can't guarantee it...it does say it uses a new FTDI FT232QR chip but I can't find a data sheet for it. It's probably just an improved FT232R chip. Just make sure you check the pinout.

Nice that the one you found ships from Amazon but if you can wait about a month, I can guarantee that this one will work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6pin-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-TTL-Serial-cable-5V-Converter-Adapter-f-Arduino-CTS-RTS/171253506583?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140602152332&meid=8417331090835691373&pid=100011&prg=20140602152332&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=181209990102
 

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Slow Guy, Fast Car
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Do you have a newer link, as this one has ended? Thanks!
 

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Slow Guy, Fast Car
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^^^Much appreciated.
 

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Twin Turbonaro
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Ordered the parts listed in the original post, and they should be here in about 2 weeks or so. No way in the world was I paying $60 for a pre-made cable when I have a perfectly good soldering iron, and also save myself $50 in the process....lol. Actually, that $60 pre-made cable looks very similar to the parts I ordered.....mmm interesting.

EDIT: Received the parts, made up the cable, and it works like a champ. The USB/TTL cable was only 3ft long, so I purchased a 10ft USB extension cable. Here's my new settings. startup is HSV, custom text is TWIN TURBO....see my avatar to the left :), and Shiftlight on.

Thanks to Shane for researching a cheaper solution, and then sharing it with everyone......cheers !!
 

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I know its been a few years since the last post in this thread, but I just made my cable tonight and I'm going to try it out this weekend.

I ordered the parts expecting to wait weeks for delivery, but I found a seller for the aldl connector in Cali and it arrived in just 3 days(I'm in NJ). Then I bought the usb cable from the same ebay seller as in the first post. Expected delivery was 8-10 weeks but it only took 10 days from date of order until I got it from China.

Thank you Shane. for this tutorial.
 

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Banned
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534 Posts
I know its been a few years since the last post in this thread, but I just made my cable tonight and I'm going to try it out this weekend.

I ordered the parts expecting to wait weeks for delivery, but I found a seller for the aldl connector in Cali and it arrived in just 3 days(I'm in NJ). Then I bought the usb cable from the same ebay seller as in the first post. Expected delivery was 8-10 weeks but it only took 10 days from date of order until I got it from China.

Thank you Shane. for this tutorial.
Dont forget to update with pics and results.
 
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