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MRP
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Discussion Starter #1
My buddy read somewhere on one of the trailblazer ss forums that the temp. gauge is off on our motors and the 160 thermostat is making them run way to cold and creating mouisture in the oil. Anybody else heard anything like that?
 

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Est. Apr 2004
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If you do a search you'll see there's a lot of debate over the 160. Most think its too cold to use unless you are going Turbo or Supercharged.
 

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Yellowjacketfever
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my 04 still has the same one in it when i bought it. my car runs on the mark below the half mark. don't know what the running temp is at that mark but it has never gotten hotter than that at idle w/ac on or hwy w/ac on. or even when i had it up to 160 mph.
 

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navydiver2323 said:
But I Know Is Definately Recommmended On Ls1 Or Ls2. Saves The Engine
this site swears by the stock t-stat they claim all kinds of info.

i for one have a 160 but i've played with other stuff . if you are stayin stock dont do it, or your drive to work is 10 minutes stay stock , thats the way i look at it.
 

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The engines run that hot because of emissions only.
 

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Please MTV... Pimp my ride
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It's a waste of time and money...
 

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although I DO run a 160 stat, I still believe it would be most beneficial if you increase the volume of the radiator and therefore can run more coolant. You will just reach a point where the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down and that in a daily driven goat may negate the purpose of a 160 stat.
 

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Please MTV... Pimp my ride
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Or just don't fvck with the cooling system, which is setup the way it's supposed to be run. Cooler temps = less thermal effecieny and lower HP. And don't confuse IAT with Coolant temp.
 

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I've read the posts so I decided to contact pyfc.com and SLP. Both state they would stay away from a 160 thermostat for a non track car. Now, if they say that and know they will lose a sell because of it then my guess would be not to use these on stock cars or cars that don't see the track. Just like everybody else, thats my.02.
 

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Respect my Authoritah
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Unless you have a specific reason for 160, stay at recommended temp. I have the oe stat in my 06 and have no problems at all, even if Sacramento summers with AC on constantly. 30 degrees does not make or break these motors.
 

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Again, I still think given the way a cooling system works that for a 160 stat to be truly effective, you need to increase the amount of fluid in the system. To do that you need a larger radiator. The coolant simply won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down before entering the block again.
 

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AZGOAT
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The 160 Tstat doesn't flow any more or any less than a 195 Tstat or a 210 Tstat. To say that the water flows too fast and doesn't stay in the radiator long enough with a 160 is ridiculous. Anyone who thinks along this theory has no business giving anyone advice on any issue automobile related. I'm far from being a top notch mechanic, but this is just common sense.

A 160 Tstat BEGINS to open and flow at 160, and is fully opened for maximum flow at 195. A 195 Tstat BEGINS to flow at 195, and is fully opened for maximum flow at 210. When the engine becomes fully warmed up, the Tstats are fully opened, regardless of when each one BEGAN to open. The difference in amount of coolant flowing and the speed of the flow: ZERO. EXACT. SAME. NO DIFFERENCE. MATCHING. EQUAL.

The advantage of the 160 Tstat is that the coolant will BEGIN to flow sooner, dispursing heat before the engine has the opportunity to get hot. It merely gives you a 'head start', because once the engine is at full operating tempature, the degree of Tstat is a mute point.

There is no machine or motor or engine that I have ever heard of that doesn't have the same enemy-heat. I also have never heard of any machine or motor or engine that does not benefit from operating at a few degrees less.

Personally, my engine can't have too clean of oil, can't be lubricated too much, can't dissipate too much heat, run too cool, or accelerate too fast.
 

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AZGOAT
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pharmdgto said:
Again, I still think given the way a cooling system works that for a 160 stat to be truly effective, you need to increase the amount of fluid in the system. To do that you need a larger radiator. The coolant simply won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down before entering the block again.

I hope you are kidding!!
 

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pharmdgto said:
Again, I still think given the way a cooling system works that for a 160 stat to be truly effective, you need to increase the amount of fluid in the system. To do that you need a larger radiator. The coolant simply won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down before entering the block again.
I'll be sure to never stop by your pharmacy.
 

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pharmdgto said:
The coolant simply won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down before entering the block again.
while can be true if you run no t-stat at all for the 160 vs 190 debate it dont fly
 

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Alert- The temp gauge has a behavior which could be described as
"dumbed down". Once in the operating range, it sits one tick below halfway.
Out of this range and it pegs. Get an Aeroforce gauge to read real numbers
 

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lanceygto said:
...in my experience I rarely see an engine that makes more power running higher than 183*F or less than 154*F."
then i wont say nascar runs there stuff at 210* water 240-60* oil. pro mod and pro stock run around 200*.


you are not going to run slower at the track with a 160* and unless you are up north you arent going to drop 5mpg is the winter cause of a 160*
 

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I guess what I was trying to say I didn't word correctly. Of course the amount of coolant in the system doesn't change and flows the same regardless what temp the stat is. I guess either I didn't fully understand the principles or just misconstrued it on my post but if someone is using a 160 stat on a daily driver versus a drag car and in stop and go traffic, once the stat is fully open I don't see how it can be any better than a higher temp stat. The coolant would be constantly circulating. I guess this is what I saw this in my daily driver. The temp would climb to 200-205 WITH a 160 stat before coming back down when the fan kicks on or you get up to a decent speed and air is flowing over the radiator. This tells me that temperature of the engine indeed doesn't rest soley on when the thermostat opens necessarily as opposed to driving conditions and other variables.

I just would think that if you wanted to increase efficiency you would need to also increase the volume of the radiator, which in turn allow you to increase the amount of coolant in the system. I would think that if you had more coolant you increase the max cooling capability of the system.
 
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