[PBMunicorn]

I am currently port and polishing my stock LS1 tb (using another ls1 one to practice on and learn) and was also going to polish my fuel rails. I like wrenching and messing around with the goat on weekends and keeping him nice an purty.
Question, since I’m going to do the tb bypass when I put the tb on, instead of running that tacky barb in the middle of the tb coolant line back to the rad, can I just take it off and swap it for a nice steel braided one instead? They come “closed off “ already and don’t have the tb port so it would clean it up aesthetically and be functional to what I’m doing.

Is there anything else involved other than just pulling the OEM line off and putting on the new one? Does anyone know if it’s easy to do or should I stray away? it’s killing two birds with one stone and I can get one for like 30 bucks and ict billet one or something similar. Any feedback is appreciated

Wanna swap this one

With this

 

[PBMunicorn]

I’m also aware I’d have to cap off the rad port where the tb line would originally go in. Haven’t thought of what I’d use for that yet. Not sure if they make any sort of cap or universal plug or something. Otherwise I wouldn’t be able to do it I guess

 

[Mick Naughty]

You need steam to get out somewhere. Unless you just wonna take you chances with it. Can get the parts separate and make your own but still needs to have it.

 

[Mick Naughty]

If you want something nice, but a cheap 4 port kit from fasster on ebay.

 

[kurazy kracka]

Deff go 4 corners if you're doing anything.

 

[PBMunicorn]

You need steam to get out somewhere. Unless you just wonna take you chances with it. Can get the parts separate and make your own but still needs to have it.

Damn I’m dumb lmao I didn’t even think of that.

If you want something nice, but a cheap 4 port kit from fasster on ebay.

damn I didnt even think of that.
So, when guys do the typical TB bypass by routing the already existent tb steam port line back to the rad with a little barb, where does a that steam pressure dissipate? If not being passed through the tb?

 

[Mick Naughty]

Damn I’m dumb lmao I didn’t even think of that.

damn I didnt even think of that.
So, when guys do the typical TB bypass by routing the already existent tb steam port line back to the rad with a little barb, where does a that steam pressure dissipate? If not being passed through the tb?

Well mine being an 04 any air goes to the res and it if it still expands and thus increasing pressure the cap will do its job and release it. Same thing as an expansion tank for the later year.

 

[PBMunicorn]

Well mine being an 04 any air goes to the res and it if it still expands and thus increasing pressure the cap will do its job and release it. Same thing as an expansion tank for the later year.

Well I do have a Mighty Mouse one way breather (with check ball) on the crank case oil cap? If that makes any difference? I looked up the fasster ones you mentioned and they’re a little pricy for what I wanna do unless it wasn’t the right one. But I just wonder if essentially ridding the tb of coolant lines and swapping out front crossover steam line (under the tb like mentioned before) would work fine and not cause any issues. I don’t really see how it would but then again I’m not an actual mechanic so 🤷🏼‍♂️

Also mines an 04 as well FWIW

 

[PBMunicorn]

Well mine being an 04 any air goes to the res and it if it still expands and thus increasing pressure the cap will do its job and release it. Same thing as an expansion tank for the later year.

And when you say the cap will do it’s job and release it are you referring to a breather cap for the crank case? Or the coolant reservoir cap? Sorry I’m just a little confused. Cuz I thought the coolant lines running through the TB were simply to have warm coolant passing through to ensure no freezing of the throttle body or whatever. I didn’t realize that the steam port line to TB also helped release pressure

 

[Mick Naughty]

And when you say the cap will do it’s job and release it are you referring to a breather cap for the crank case? Or the coolant reservoir cap? Sorry I’m just a little confused. Cuz I thought the coolant lines running through the TB were simply to have warm coolant passing through to ensure no freezing of the throttle body or whatever. I didn’t realize that the steam port line to TB also helped release pressure

Yea I'm referring to the coolant cap as we are talking about coolant lines. The throttle body has nothing to do with it. The line itself has its own job to do.
You can do what ever you want. It's your car and you can find out if gonna be an issue or not. Hot spots have been well documented for a long time and their causes and effects.

 

[Doc-Z]

Earls makes a nice kit, but you could always piece something together. I got all my tubes and fitting at Summit Racing.

Earls LS0015ERL Earls LS Steam Tube Kit w/Speed Flex

Steam Vent Adapters & kits. They are designed to eliminate trapped air and steam from your engine to prevent hot spots or overheating. The complete kits are available to plumb your LS engine and include the appropriate hose and hose ends to make installation a breeze. These kits are more...

www.holley.com

 

[PBMunicorn]

Yea I'm referring to the coolant cap as we are talking about coolant lines. The throttle body has nothing to do with it. The line itself has its own job to do.
You can do what ever you want. It's your car and you can find out if gonna be an issue or not. Hot spots have been well documented for a long time and their causes and effects.

Yea I didn’t understand at first because I’m not very familiar with working on steam vent lines. I didn’t think about the fact that removing that tb to rad line entirely and just replacing with a “closed off” crossover would give no place for the coolant to cycle back to the rad properly.

So I’m guessing the proper way to do it if I really wanted to (though might not even be worth the hassle) would be to swap the OEM hard line (w/ tb hose attached) to a kit that has an extra threaded top hole on one of the coolant ports that comes with a 1/4” barb, and just run that back to the rad. Essentially keeping the system the same as stock just with a braided line instead of the OEM hard line. Still bypassing the tb in the process!

 

[Rich-Tripower]

Adding front to rear lines can get rather complicated and for stockish builds a front crossover should be enough since it was deemed enough by GM. However, an improved front crossover with a delete to the TB isn't a bad idea.

That said, I did add a 4 corner steam vent system to the 06 when I put the blower on since that is introducing a bit more heat to the whole system and the way I plumbed it, it also gave me a way to burp the system to eliminate internal trapped air bubbles in the cooling system.

The Earl 4 corner system referenced in a link above is neat, but doubt it would fit under an aftermarket intake manifold like a FAST.