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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently port and polishing my stock LS1 tb (using another ls1 one to practice on and learn) and was also going to polish my fuel rails. I like wrenching and messing around with the goat on weekends and keeping him nice an purty.
Question, since I’m going to do the tb bypass when I put the tb on, instead of running that tacky barb in the middle of the tb coolant line back to the rad, can I just take it off and swap it for a nice steel braided one instead? They come “closed off “ already and don’t have the tb port so it would clean it up aesthetically and be functional to what I’m doing.

Is there anything else involved other than just pulling the OEM line off and putting on the new one? Does anyone know if it’s easy to do or should I stray away? it’s killing two birds with one stone and I can get one for like 30 bucks and ict billet one or something similar. Any feedback is appreciated

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I’m also aware I’d have to cap off the rad port where the tb line would originally go in. Haven’t thought of what I’d use for that yet. Not sure if they make any sort of cap or universal plug or something. Otherwise I wouldn’t be able to do it I guess
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need steam to get out somewhere. Unless you just wonna take you chances with it. Can get the parts separate and make your own but still needs to have it.
Damn I’m dumb lmao I didn’t even think of that.
If you want something nice, but a cheap 4 port kit from fasster on ebay.
damn I didnt even think of that.
So, when guys do the typical TB bypass by routing the already existent tb steam port line back to the rad with a little barb, where does a that steam pressure dissipate? If not being passed through the tb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well mine being an 04 any air goes to the res and it if it still expands and thus increasing pressure the cap will do its job and release it. Same thing as an expansion tank for the later year.
Well I do have a Mighty Mouse one way breather (with check ball) on the crank case oil cap? If that makes any difference? I looked up the fasster ones you mentioned and they’re a little pricy for what I wanna do unless it wasn’t the right one. But I just wonder if essentially ridding the tb of coolant lines and swapping out front crossover steam line (under the tb like mentioned before) would work fine and not cause any issues. I don’t really see how it would but then again I’m not an actual mechanic so 🤷🏼‍♂️

Also mines an 04 as well FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well mine being an 04 any air goes to the res and it if it still expands and thus increasing pressure the cap will do its job and release it. Same thing as an expansion tank for the later year.
And when you say the cap will do it’s job and release it are you referring to a breather cap for the crank case? Or the coolant reservoir cap? Sorry I’m just a little confused. Cuz I thought the coolant lines running through the TB were simply to have warm coolant passing through to ensure no freezing of the throttle body or whatever. I didn’t realize that the steam port line to TB also helped release pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea I'm referring to the coolant cap as we are talking about coolant lines. The throttle body has nothing to do with it. The line itself has its own job to do.
You can do what ever you want. It's your car and you can find out if gonna be an issue or not. Hot spots have been well documented for a long time and their causes and effects.
Yea I didn’t understand at first because I’m not very familiar with working on steam vent lines. I didn’t think about the fact that removing that tb to rad line entirely and just replacing with a “closed off” crossover would give no place for the coolant to cycle back to the rad properly.

So I’m guessing the proper way to do it if I really wanted to (though might not even be worth the hassle) would be to swap the OEM hard line (w/ tb hose attached) to a kit that has an extra threaded top hole on one of the coolant ports that comes with a 1/4” barb, and just run that back to the rad. Essentially keeping the system the same as stock just with a braided line instead of the OEM hard line. Still bypassing the tb in the process!
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