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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Based on my previous thread about cracks in the sidewall of my tires, I'm taking a firm look at putting 245's all the way around as suggested by Westphal.

I already had 245's on the rear, so I just moved the rears to the front as a fitment test, and it seems awfully close. I can't quite get my pinky finger between the tire and the strut afterwards. (pics attached, hard to photograph)

I've also pretty much settled on the Continental DWS06 tires as replacements for these Comp-2 AS tires that are all cracked up. Thanks for all that chimed in with this suggestion. It's anyone's guess if the DWS06 will be more 'squared' than the slightly bulging nature of the sidewalls on my Comp-2 AS tires, which already have kind of a weird rounded sidewall anyway.

Since I badly need tires, and keep waffling about clearance, I went ahead and ordered some 3mm wheel spacers, just to test. As you can see from the head-on shot, the 245's already stick out a tiny bit, and even small spacers will add to the effect.

Do you think my clearance will be OK (based on the pics) w/o the spacer? With the spacer?

My main concern is sidewall flex or going over a deep bump and having it the tire 'bulge' into the strut, even if its just momentarily.
 

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GR-RRR!
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Any sidewall flex or bulge would be at the contact patch and would be gone by the time that spot in the tire gets to the top by the strut. I run the fronts on both my cars with that much clearance or maybe a little less and I've never had any rub there, both have 245s up front. The 06 is on stock 18s and the 04 is on Enkei Raijins which are 18s but I'm not absolutely sure what the offset is on those. They poke out a bit more than the stock 18s.
 

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Hi Guys; Hmm, back when mine was 100% OE my 245/45-17's had shined the strut clean. No dirt, sill had paint, maybe less? The tire had a very clean strip where the OE clearance was the tightest. I started runnin' 235/45-17's up front when I replaced the OE BF?rich, 2010. I did get new tires this spring but have yet to drive on them. Since I belong to the "No engine In The Engine Bay Club". I usually only drive about a 1000 miles a year so they last a long time. There fore I but softest tires I can afford on. The day the lifter broke I had the new rear's mounted, Nitto NT555 RII's 245/45-17's. They have only rolled in & out of the garage so far! I like the 235/45's up front as they drop the nose about a 1/4"? Ole' Bob.
 

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Hi Guys; Hmm, back when mine was 100% OE my 245/45-17's had shined the strut clean. No dirt, sill had paint, maybe less? The tire had a very clean strip where the OE clearance was the tightest. I started runnin' 235/45-17's up front when I replaced the OE BF?rich, 2010. I did get new tires this spring but have yet to drive on them. Since I belong to the "No engine In The Engine Bay Club". I usually only drive about a 1000 miles a year so they last a long time. There fore I but softest tires I can afford on. The day the lifter broke I had the new rear's mounted, Nitto NT555 RII's 245/45-17's. They have only rolled in & out of the garage so far! I like the 235/45's up front as they drop the nose about a 1/4"? Ole' Bob.
I’ve ran 245/45zr17s on my 04 the entire 6 years I’ve owned and never ever had strut rub issues until my strut mounts collapsed now I get some rub on tight turns and is why I’m swapping out all the old stuff as soon as i get it. I’m running gforce comp2 a/s fwiw and I’ve had some random chunks taken out of my sidewalls as well on the outside for some weird reason lol maybe just these BFGs
 

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Chickun maka lousy houspet
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I 🇸🇪 abstain 🇸🇪 from 🇸🇪 posting 🇸🇪 to 🇸🇪 this 🇸🇪 thread.

Dang it...it didn't work! :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’ve ran 245/45zr17s on my 04 the entire 6 years I’ve owned and never ever had strut rub issues until my strut mounts collapsed now I get some rub on tight turns and is why I’m swapping out all the old stuff as soon as i get it. I’m running gforce comp2 a/s fwiw and I’ve had some random chunks taken out of my sidewalls as well on the outside for some weird reason lol maybe just these BFGs
Although they -were- highly rated, the Comp2's are coming apart on me. Not happy, and won't be buying them again. See my other thread: BF Goodrich Comp AS-2 - Sidewall cracks
 

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Based on my previous thread about cracks in the sidewall of my tires, I'm taking a firm look at putting 245's all the way around as suggested by Westphal.

I already had 245's on the rear, so I just moved the rears to the front as a fitment test, and it seems awfully close. I can't quite get my pinky finger between the tire and the strut afterwards. (pics attached, hard to photograph)

I've also pretty much settled on the Continental DWS06 tires as replacements for these Comp-2 AS tires that are all cracked up. Thanks for all that chimed in with this suggestion. It's anyone's guess if the DWS06 will be more 'squared' than the slightly bulging nature of the sidewalls on my Comp-2 AS tires, which already have kind of a weird rounded sidewall anyway.

Since I badly need tires, and keep waffling about clearance, I went ahead and ordered some 3mm wheel spacers, just to test. As you can see from the head-on shot, the 245's already stick out a tiny bit, and even small spacers will add to the effect.

Do you think my clearance will be OK (based on the pics) w/o the spacer? With the spacer?

My main concern is sidewall flex or going over a deep bump and having it the tire 'bulge' into the strut, even if its just momentarily.
Are you on stock 18" wheels? I have aftermarket wheels with a 45mm offset, so that pushes them out 3mm compared to stock wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you on stock 18" wheels? I have aftermarket wheels with a 45mm offset, so that pushes them out 3mm compared to stock wheels.
Yes, Chromed 18" OEM wheels. Maybe the 3mm spacers I have on order will make me end up matching your offset, and ease my nervousness about them running so close to the strut. After running a staggered set, I'm ready to get back to a place where I can truly rotate tires again.
 

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Yes, Chromed 18" OEM wheels. Maybe the 3mm spacers I have on order will make me end up matching your offset, and ease my nervousness about them running so close to the strut. After running a staggered set, I'm ready to get back to a place where I can truly rotate tires again.
I’m sure I’ll miss that if I run 275 on rears 🤣
 

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Yeah the stock size is 245 all around so you shouldn't have problems unless your upper strut mounts are worn or failing. I remember when I had 17s on mine it was pretty tight but never rubbed, nevertheless I replaced the upper mounts with Whiteline poly ones anyway just to avoid any potential issues.
 

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Collapsing strut mounts can screw up your alignment specs, but they won't cause strut rub by being worn or collapsed. Where ever the strut moves the steering knuckle and thus the wheel hub and thus the wheel moves with it as an assembly.

245/45s were stock on the 17s, 235/40s were stock on the 18s.

But, the overall size and shape of the tire in a given rated size can vary a fair amount between brands of tire and models of tire. Just because one brand fit with enough clearance does not necessarily mean the same size in another brand will have the same clearance.
 

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Collapsing strut mounts can screw up your alignment specs, but they won't cause strut rub by being worn or collapsed. Where ever the strut moves the steering knuckle and thus the wheel hub and thus the wheel moves with it as an assembly.

245/45s were stock on the 17s, 235/40s were stock on the 18s.

But, the overall size and shape of the tire in a given rated size can vary a fair amount between brands of tire and models of tire. Just because one brand fit with enough clearance does not necessarily mean the same size in another brand will have the same clearance.

This

looking at it there's no physical way an upper strut mount failing would cause the tire to move more inward towards the strut without the strut moving more inward to the body as well, the strut is physically bolted to the wheel via the wheel bearing and knuckle, the only way the tire would be closer to them would be due to bent components or adjusting for more negative camber.
 

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This

looking at it there's no physical way an upper strut mount failing would cause the tire to move more inward towards the strut without the strut moving more inward to the body as well, the strut is physically bolted to the wheel via the wheel bearing and knuckle, the only way the tire would be closer to them would be due to bent components or adjusting for more negative camber.
They’re so collapsed that the gap between my strut mount tops (whatever the part on top of the strut mount is called with the nut and cap) is big enough for me to stick my finger in it.
All my suspension parts are from 04 aside from all my brakes and front rad rod bushings. I was taking a turn hard on the freeway and heard a loud ass POP which at the time thought it was a strut or something but then after reading on here about catastrophic failure of the strut mounts causing a gap between the mount and the frame (amongst a host of other issues) I checked both of mine and sure enough they were both failed.
Gaps slowly been getting bigger over the last few months. That’s when the strut rub, inner tire wear and and all the cracking and popping started. That’s why I’m swapping out all these parts in the next couple weekends. When I spin the nut on top of the strut mount as well it just free spins. No tension whatsoever. I never had any strut rub before any of this and have had these tires OVER 20k miles now.
i also will need balancing and alignment once I finish rear rad rod bushings and all the suspension work
 

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When I spin the nut on top of the strut mount as well it just free spins. No tension whatsoever.
That's concerning...

If you're going to do control arm bushings, don't forget that you can buy an entire Whiteline control arm and save a lot of time and grief. Well worth the money for the time and labor saved in my opinion.
 

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Collapsing strut mounts can screw up your alignment specs, but they won't cause strut rub by being worn or collapsed. Where ever the strut moves the steering knuckle and thus the wheel hub and thus the wheel moves with it as an assembly.

245/45s were stock on the 17s, 235/40s were stock on the 18s.

But, the overall size and shape of the tire in a given rated size can vary a fair amount between brands of tire and models of tire. Just because one brand fit with enough clearance does not necessarily mean the same size in another brand will have the same clearance.
Yes true there are variances between tire brands, but 245 is a mm measurement so there shouldn't be much. I've had 3 or 4 different 245s on mine and never had a problem.

My understanding was the upper strut mounts collapse, which effectively lowers the front end and increases camber, leading to strut rub. So basically the camber spec would be way off but as a result of the failing strut mount, and possibly would not be able to be put back into spec without replacing the mounts.
 
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