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Collapsing strut mounts will change camber, but it will NOT bring the tire any closer to the strut body.
Ok, so what DOES bring the tire closer to the strut body? Strut rub is highly documented on this forum and others, to the point that years ago several companies were offering a "strut rub kit"--the main component of which was new upper strut mounts.

I get that the whole assembly should have its geometry determined by physical mounting points from wheel to hub, hub to strut, and strut to body, but there's no way the dozens (hundreds?) of people who have had issues over the years were all due to bent or damaged components aside from the strut mounts (and possibly radius rod bushings).

Like I said I've never had a problem and don't expect to since now I have 18s (seems more common on the stock 17s) and poly strut mounts and radius rod bushings and all my alignment specs are correct. Just trying to understand how all these people had problems in the past and many problems were solved with these strut rub kits.
 

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The only way the tire can move closer to or farther from the strut body is by adjusting the camber where the knuckle bolts to the strut body.

Like I said earlier though, changing brands/model of tire can cause problems too all other things remaining the same. Not all tires are shaped or sized exactly the same. And if you go up a tire size you can most definitely run into strut rub issues.

If you have collapsed strut top bushings and try to do an alignment without fixing them you will have problems.

Strut rub is a real thing, but it is not caused by collapsed strut top bushings.
 

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The only way the tire can move closer to or farther from the strut body is by adjusting the camber where the knuckle bolts to the strut body.

Like I said earlier though, changing brands/model of tire can cause problems too all other things remaining the same. Not all tires are shaped or sized exactly the same. And if you go up a tire size you can most definitely run into strut rub issues.

If you have collapsed strut top bushings and try to do an alignment without fixing them you will have problems.

Strut rub is a real thing, but it is not caused by collapsed strut top bushings.
this all day.

the inner tire to strut clearance is tight to begin with on these cars. alignment, proper tire sizing, and wheel fitment is pretty critical.

iirc, the struts were redesigned to have a little more clearance back in the day to respond to the strut rub issue. not sure if that is just ls1gto legend or factual...
 

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I think the most common situation that has caused strut rub issues is when people put on aftermarket wheels with a different offset than stock wheels. Given the orientation of the wheels/tires to the strut, it doesn't take much change to cause problems and I don't think hardly any wheel maker ever made wheels with the same offset as the OEM wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
New DWS-06s installed - 245s all the way around. I ended up buying these from Amazon - it was just too good of a deal to pass up, but that did leave me with having to find a place to install them. I had hoped to get the Discount Tire up the street to install them - I bought my previous Comp 2 AS from them, and I like helping local places if I can; However, they kept putting up roadblocks.
  • They were nervous about the clearance, even though I had already moved one of my old 245s to the front to show that they were close but cleared fine with a 3mm spacer I installed.
  • They refused to allow the tiny spacer to be installed, but said they would gladly do the rears for me, since they had no clearance issues in the back.
  • I was OK with this, up until they warned to charge me $78 to install two tires ($7 to unmount old, $7 to mount new, $22 to balance per tire). Seems this is their corporate 'policy' if you bring own tires. That left a bad taste in my mouth, so I took the car home, and came back in my truck to pick up all (4) new tires.

The next morning, I took all four old tires + wheels and all four new tires to Walmart and got them mounted, balanced and old ones recycled for $104 out the door.

So far, I'm liking the tires. I've jacked it up twice after spirited driving and see no signs of rubbing/touching the strut, so I'm pretty confident it's going to be OK. I still have 9 full turns of the lug nuts, so that seems to be fine was well. The traction is good - I haven't been able to break them loose or get it to kick sideways yet, at least on dry pavement. So far, so good, and thanks for the recommendations, guys.
 

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As I understand it - 235s were stock on the Monaros, 245s on the GTO. And 04s were more prone to strut rub.
Pics from mine in 2008, at 10K mi or less, stock chromed 17s. Dealer said "that is normal" - funny, I thought the only part of the tire that Normally rubbed on anything was the Tread...
Friend & inactive club member reset & tightened the lower camber stop, and cured the problem.
Wood Gas Font Paint Metal
Automotive tire Tread Tire Fender Synthetic rubber

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Light Bicycle wheel



So My question was: 235s vs 245 - any experience running 4 of both sizes?
 

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As I understand it - 235s were stock on the Monaros, 245s on the GTO. And 04s were more prone to strut rub.
Pics from mine in 2008, at 10K mi or less, stock chromed 17s. Dealer said "that is normal" - funny, I thought the only part of the tire that Normally rubbed on anything was the Tread...
Friend & inactive club member reset & tightened the lower camber stop, and cured the problem.
View attachment 521232 View attachment 521234
View attachment 521235


So My question was: 235s vs 245 - any experience running 4 of both sizes?
235 was the factory width for 18x8 wheels on the GTO. 245 is an easy increase of width that's still meant for an 8 inch wheel.

245s came on the 17x8s factory wheels.
 
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