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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I'm waiting for my Maggie kit to arrive, I've been noodling around exactly how things are set up and how the whole system is structured and where various ports and sensors are. This series of videos shows a TVS2300 being blown apart and makes it easier to understand where things are and how the whole contraption works. Helped me anyway.

This is video 1 of 3 which provides links to the other two videos.

 

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Good video. Weird he is having some many problems with it. Maybe he got a lemon, or hes exceeding the specifications some how.

Watching it more - lots of belt dust all over the place means its slipping hard, although I dont know if slippage can break anything inside the blower.
 

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Good video. Weird he is having some many problems with it. Maybe he got a lemon, or hes exceeding the specifications some how.

Watching it more - lots of belt dust all over the place means its slipping hard, although I dont know if slippage can break anything inside the blower.
FormulaD so you can imagine some bouncing off the rev limiter which would tear up any crank driven charger.

Actually watched the videos before i should have shared. Although he takes apart much more than necessary to change the IAT if thats what youre wondering about
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually watched the videos before i should have shared. Although he takes apart much more than necessary to change the IAT if thats what youre wondering about
I was curious about that but I've decided to leave the "stock" IAT in there and just use that. From JTRR's testing it seems to function as well or better than any other sensor that could be jammed in the hole at the back.
 

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im not seeing any issues with its performance either. about 20* above ambient readouts with the duspeed currently
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good to know. My latest noodling is trying to figure out how to plumb in a stand alone boost gauge. I really want a color-matched boost gauge from MavMan, I just have to figure out how to make it work and figure out a good place to mount it in the car.

Does anyone make a good gauge cluster bezel with a built in gauge pod anymore? There seems to be a lot of junk out there.
 

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Cool <sniff> vid. Thanks for <sniff> sharing.
Always <sniff> wanted to see <sniff> the inside <sniff> of a TVS <sniff> 2300.
 

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Good to know. My latest noodling is trying to figure out how to plumb in a stand alone boost gauge. I really want a color-matched boost gauge from MavMan, I just have to figure out how to make it work and figure out a good place to mount it in the car.

Does anyone make a good gauge cluster bezel with a built in gauge pod anymore? There seems to be a lot of junk out there.
4min mark in video 2 fyi & here

510327


same spot the BAP would attach
510329


mavman - unavailable now. havent decided if im keeping mine or going to a dual though
ortiz - not my cup of tea
another guy on fb - but im not sold on it either (i sent you this info on fb msg)
DIY - i may try this like @blackgtos did his
 

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I was curious about that but I've decided to leave the "stock" IAT in there and just use that. From JTRR's testing it seems to function as well or better than any other sensor that could be jammed in the hole at the back.
Although I purchased that sensor as a stock OEM replacement, it definitely was not the same as the previous stock sensors. Usually the thermistors are covered with an opaque epoxy. The one I had with the good response looked like it was electroplated with some sort of metallic material that I am guessing is a better conductor than the epoxy. My thought is it some recent manufacturing technology advancement where the OEM can make a zillion of them cheaper than the old way, and it happens to be faster and reliable at the same time.

Thanks for posting the video. I am hoping not to seem my TVS fly off the block like his guy was saying, but it makes me wonder if running my kevlar Gates RPM belt might be letting more shock through to the blower than a standard or green belt.

One thing I also found was that a low profile 10mm swivel head socket was a good investment for the TVS install in general, but especially to remove the tub to get at the IAT sensor without needing to remove the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
4min mark in video 2 fyi & here

View attachment 510327

same spot the BAP would attach
View attachment 510329

mavman - unavailable now. havent decided if im keeping mine or going to a dual though
ortiz - not my cup of tea
another guy on fb - but im not sold on it either (i sent you this info on fb msg)
DIY - i may try this like @blackgtos did his
The MavMan boost gauge (really a Speedhut gauge with a custom face) uses a transponder to send the signal to the gauge (the gauge is electric not mechanical) so I belive the sending unit needs to be grounded (thus, screwed into the engine in some fashion).

My first though was to do what you are showing there and splice the sending unit into the vacuum/boost line that the Magnavolt would have used (I'm not using the Magnavolt, already put in a larger fuel pump) but connected to a rubber line it wouldn't be grounded. My next thought was to remove the nipple in the Maggie housing and screw the sending unit in there but then I lose my vacuum port for other accessories but that could be accommodated with some extra fittings but then I wonder if it would get too tall and interfere with the rear pulley. My next thought was to plumb the sending unit to a rubber line anyway and just ground it with a stand alone ground strap. Another thought is to find some lower profile fittings that would point the sending unit horizontally away from the pulley but I don't know if that could work since there is so little room there to work with and I really don't know if the stock nipple is pressed in or screwed in.

Things I'll have to figure out when I actually have my Maggie in my hands. Or, if one of you could tell me if that vacuum/boost nipple is pressed in or screwed in that would help.
 

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The MavMan boost gauge (really a Speedhut gauge with a custom face) uses a transponder to send the signal to the gauge (the gauge is electric not mechanical) so I belive the sending unit needs to be grounded (thus, screwed into the engine in some fashion).

My first though was to do what you are showing there and splice the sending unit into the vacuum/boost line that the Magnavolt would have used (I'm not using the Magnavolt, already put in a larger fuel pump) but connected to a rubber line it wouldn't be grounded. My next thought was to remove the nipple in the Maggie housing and screw the sending unit in there but then I lose my vacuum port for other accessories but that could be accommodated with some extra fittings but then I wonder if it would get too tall and interfere with the rear pulley. My next thought was to plumb the sending unit to a rubber line anyway and just ground it with a stand alone ground strap. Another thought is to find some lower profile fittings that would point the sending unit horizontally away from the pulley but I don't know if that could work since there is so little room there to work with and I really don't know if the stock nipple is pressed in or screwed in.

Things I'll have to figure out when I actually have my Maggie in my hands. Or, if one of you could tell me if that vacuum/boost nipple is pressed in or screwed in that would help.
the sensor is grounded by the wiring harness, it specifically comes with a npt female to hose barb fitting. 3 wire harness. 1 power, 1 ground, 1 signal

pretty certain the fitting is pressed as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
All good to know! So I could just connect it to the rubber vacuum/boost line and be done with it, that makes life much easier. Then I just need to wire the gauge and find a place to put it.

BUT!: A quick visit to the Speedhut website's installation instructions state: Note: Pressure sensor must be grounded to the engine block through threads. Use Teflon liquid sealing compound on threads. Do not use Teflon tape.

Regardless, I could make it work either way.
 
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