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Discussion Starter #1
This is a good deal, really good for those who have stock HU and want to upgrade their subs.
It is a 100w rms amp that is signal activated. In other words, it is wired in just like the stock one, except it probably has much more power. No rca inputs, just a splice and mount replacement for the stock p.o.s. sub amp. I have aftermarket HU and stuff, so I obviously don't endorse this stuff, but for those who cling to their stock unit it'd be good.
Here's a link:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-175
 

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That's not bad at all. The 1 ohm is a bit tricky, but still an interesting option.
 

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Not an audio expert...

I thought you could go down ohm, not up.

4 --> 2 --> 1

Wouldn't this be fine with a 2 ohm sub?
 

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Suffering Fools
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I saw that yesterday. You could probably power it with the factory sub amp wires, so you wouldn't need to run anything at all.

Not an audio expert...

I thought you could go down ohm, not up.

4 --> 2 --> 1

Wouldn't this be fine with a 2 ohm sub?
Not sure what you mean by this. This amp can run any load down to 1 ohm. So it can run up to 8 8-ohm speakers, 4 4-ohm speakers, 2 2-ohm speakers (like our stock subs) or 1 1-ohm speaker.
 

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Not sure what you mean by this. This amp can run any load down to 1 ohm. So it can run up to 8 8-ohm speakers, 4 4-ohm speakers, 2 2-ohm speakers (like our stock subs) or 1 1-ohm speaker.
True when they are wired parallel and not series ;)
OP is right that this could be the best band for the buck in GTO audio upgrades :D
 

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This is probably the best page for subwoofer wiring configs i have found. http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
Having done alot of audio in the past, I would say this amp is pretty much worthless with a small exception for replacing the factory amp that runs the stock subs if you needed to. I wouldn't waste my time trying anything else with it. This statement from the sales website: "The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle's audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp." Pretty much says it draws next to no current so good luck getting any kind of power out of it.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Isn't anyone wondering why Kicker is dumping them so cheap?
 

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5-0 in a 6.0
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I picked one up to drive my rears for midbass since it was cheap. Got here today so I'll post up how it worked out when I get around to getting it installed.
 

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5-0 in a 6.0
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Ok, got it wired in and a few points.

First off, the wiring isn't quite as straightforward as the parts-express web site. If you wire it in the way it indicates, it will work, but it will be high pass only.

I've never used an oem component from one car in another, so it took some trial and error but here is the configuration I used to get low pass instead.

Power:
2 orange wires w/ blue stripe from factory amp > red power wire from kicker amp
Ground:
2 black wires / blue stripe from factory amp > black bower wire from kicker amp
Remote Turn On Signal:
Blue wire with orange stripe from factory amp > gray wire from main kicker amp harness
Blue wire with black stripe from factory amp > gray wire with black stripe from main kicker amp harness
Low Pass Signal:
Green wire with red stripe & yellow wire with red stripe from factory amp > black wire from kicker sub harness
Green wire with white stripe & yellow wire with white stripe from factory harness > gray wire from kicker sub harness

It's fits the bill perfectly for what I had in mind.

I plan on dropping a sub in the back panel for lows, but also wanted a little extra midbase kick since I listen to alot of rock and some light metal.

This amp makes the back panel 6.5s sound the way they should have from the factory - tight and clean even at loud volumes.

Even with the wiring headache, install took roughly an hour. For $20 this was a great little boost.
 

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R.I.P Lars
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will it work if you have an aftermarket stereo? like Pioneer f700. all my speakers are stock including the rear amp. thanks

I dont want to go all out on the sound system, in the future maybe just swap out speakers and get some new 6.5 subs for the back.
 

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Isn't anyone wondering why Kicker is dumping them so cheap?
Someone elsewhere mentioned that they were for a Chrysler OE stereo option.
 

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5-0 in a 6.0
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Yup, Mopar OEM for the Dodge Neons, Chrysler 300s, and probably a few others.
 

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this amp is the stock amp they used in the SRT-4's from 2003-2005...it is SUPER weak, trust me, i had one.

our stock gto bass beats out any woofer/amp combo with this particular amp
 

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I mean ten dollars is ten dollars, and its probably atleast a little bit of an upgrade from the factory amp, so I guess its worth a shot. I wonder if it'll power my two shelf mounted kicker comp 8's? =D
 

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I wouldn't use it to power any real subwoofer, but it definitely has higher output than the stock amp on the stock rear shelf speakers.

I also wouldn't get my hopes up on it pushing two 8s. It may push one, but not both.
 

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I wouldn't use it to power any real subwoofer, but it definitely has higher output than the stock amp on the stock rear shelf speakers.

I also wouldn't get my hopes up on it pushing two 8s. It may push one, but not both.

Sooo get two? I mean for ten dollars a pop, why not? :pimp:
 

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Ok, got it wired in and a few points.

First off, the wiring isn't quite as straightforward as the parts-express web site. If you wire it in the way it indicates, it will work, but it will be high pass only.

I've never used an oem component from one car in another, so it took some trial and error but here is the configuration I used to get low pass instead.

Power:
2 orange wires w/ blue stripe from factory amp > red power wire from kicker amp
Ground:
2 black wires / blue stripe from factory amp > black bower wire from kicker amp
Remote Turn On Signal:
Blue wire with orange stripe from factory amp > gray wire from main kicker amp harness
Blue wire with black stripe from factory amp > gray wire with black stripe from main kicker amp harness
Low Pass Signal:
Green wire with red stripe & yellow wire with red stripe from factory amp > black wire from kicker sub harness
Green wire with white stripe & yellow wire with white stripe from factory harness > gray wire from kicker sub harness

It's fits the bill perfectly for what I had in mind.

I plan on dropping a sub in the back panel for lows, but also wanted a little extra midbase kick since I listen to alot of rock and some light metal.

This amp makes the back panel 6.5s sound the way they should have from the factory - tight and clean even at loud volumes.

Even with the wiring headache, install took roughly an hour. For $20 this was a great little boost.
New guy here. Ive been browsing around for awhile but this wiring headache forces me to ask the question

I cannot get the amp to turn on and power the rear woofers.
There are still two wires on the factory harness that aren't connected.
The orange wire and the striped yellow wire.
Are they supposed to be connected?
And the two green wires from the kicker do they go unused?

When you talk about kicker sub harness are you referring to the separate gray and black wire that were not tied together in the rest of the wiring?
 
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