LS1GTO.com Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All! Doing a heads and cam on my gto and I broke the dreaded line going into the ac drier. I’d like to avoid replacing the whole line if possible but I’m having issues locating the adapters I’ve seen mentioned in threads. I saw one post where a guy used a Russell an to hard line adapter which seemed the easiest route. I bought the smallest one I could find which was 3/8th and it’s way too big. I’ve seen other mentions of universal driers and flaring the line. Does anyone have any part numbers or other recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
509 Posts
This is not really an answer to your question, but I will say that you need to do a single flare for low side, a double flare for high side applications. Otherwise, you will probably leak. This is not your Dad's R-12.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
439 Posts
I used a brass plumbing ferrule slipped on and its worked like that for years. I used the factory nut too. I have yet to see a easier or cheaper solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Could you explain? You bought the ferrule but what did you put it in to compress it? Sorry I just don’t understand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I'm working on this same issue. Mine broke right at the fitting :/ I've had a hard time finding a universal flare receiver/ drier. I'll post What a figure out as I go. So far I've only found the drier and ordered it. Not sure if it'll work yet but it's a 4seasons/ everco #33258 from Autozone. I'm working on the fittings still but it's slow going as parts stores around here don't have crap for fittings...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Update: tried finding fittings to make the New receiver drier work and that's a no go... Off to return it! Now I'm searching for an adapter fitting to adapt the existing receiver drier to a flared line. I read in another thread that it exists but naturally no part numbers. I'd be tickled pink if people followed through with doing what they said they'd do and post some numbers to help out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
509 Posts
I used to bake any dryer that was exposed to the air in a very slow oven. The desicant needs to be relieved of moisture. Very important. The oven trick worked with R-12 and mineral oil, but have no idea if same rules apply with R-134A and PAG oil. So, if the old part was exposed to the air, you need to do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Update: Wow, sorry, been a while. I ended up replacing the dreaded line with a new one. No band-aids. I found It was doable after I dropped the exhaust. A couple of janky bends due to shipping and having to re-bend into position, but not too bad. Good luck all!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
439 Posts
Could you explain? You bought the ferrule but what did you put it in to compress it? Sorry I just don’t understand
The ferrule and the factory nut that screwed onto the drier. I used a o-ring in between the ferrule and the drier also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,527 Posts
I used to bake any dryer that was exposed to the air in a very slow oven. The desicant needs to be relieved of moisture. Very important. The oven trick worked with R-12 and mineral oil, but have no idea if same rules apply with R-134A and PAG oil. So, if the old part was exposed to the air, you need to do this.
mine stayed open for days. I put it back together, put a vacuum on it for half hour and charged it back up. Been working fine for I dont know how long. I think people overthink stuff far too often. Or just make stuff up to complicate things. (shrug)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,527 Posts
Update: Wow, sorry, been a while. I ended up replacing the dreaded line with a new one. No band-aids. I found It was doable after I dropped the exhaust. A couple of janky bends due to shipping and having to re-bend into position, but not too bad. Good luck all!
i used two orings on mine.....
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top