LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
I have several questions I need some advice on, I have several people throwing info at me in person, but everything I read and everything people tell me and what I already know are confusing me so id like to just know in advance everything i may need to do and the cheapest and easiest ways to achieve my goal. I have around $5k budget including my credit card lol.
I want to twin turbo my fully stock 04 gto (auto) using truck headers flipped backwards, with very low boost like 8-12psi for maybe 500whp.
I have full intentions of this being a street car that I will drive daily, but want it to be more fun and able to slam on a mustang if they decide to pull up.

My main questions are:

What are the actual dangers of boosting the factory motor, and are there ways to bulletproof it without completely replacing the rotating assembly with forged internals? (I have heard the connecting rod bolts are the main issue)

Is it necessary with such low boost to resleeve it?

Are the factory heads okay for boost? Or should the valves/springs be changed, to accommodate a turbo cam with bigger lift for the increased airflow? More than likely will have them ported as well.

And should I have the heads ported flow tested to determine what cam I should get? I am still ignorant on cam selection.

And finally, the turbos. I am ignorant to turbo selection as well, what size is needed, how much psi they produce and whatnot. I've read ls motors spool a 68-75mm turbo very quickly to produce my psi goal very easily, so do they make turbos half that size? Two 34mm turbos making the same pressure as one 68mm?

I'm wanting the twin setup as it doesn't seem like many exist, mostly the procharger or a single big turbo setup. I think a symmetrical engine setup will look nice as well. I have someone who can tune, and a local machine shop and exhaust shop that can do that work. Just need to throw a kit together for the other components and find some decent turbos, and depending on the answers to my other questions probably some other components.

Thanks in advance for any links to helpful pages, kits online, etc.
I have found an ls twin turbo kit online and may end up going with it, but i still need to know about my other questions about my engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I guess I should have also asked about the stock injectors and fuel pump, I shouldn't need an upgrade on those with this little boost, should I?
 

·
Registered
2006 Pontiac GTO
Joined
·
215 Posts
8-12 isn’t low boost for an ls1. I believe a prpcharger or magnesson kit only goes to 6psi when installed with stock setup. Even those kits include higher flow injectors. Anything more you need fuel system upgrades as well as other things to keep it reliable and run correctly. Running lean is the major issue and you need a good tune and fuel system to make sure you’re safe. Also recommend a wideband gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Hello everyone,
I have several questions I need some advice on, I have several people throwing info at me in person, but everything I read and everything people tell me and what I already know are confusing me so id like to just know in advance everything i may need to do and the cheapest and easiest ways to achieve my goal. I have around $5k budget including my credit card lol.
I want to twin turbo my fully stock 04 gto (auto) using truck headers flipped backwards, with very low boost like 8-12psi for maybe 500whp. I feel pretty certain that truck headers (or manifolds) are not going to work on this car. You can try, I did and they did not fit. Your best bet would be to get the APS manifolds.
I have full intentions of this being a street car that I will drive daily, but want it to be more fun and able to slam on a mustang if they decide to pull up.

My main questions are:

What are the actual dangers of boosting the factory motor, and are there ways to bulletproof it without completely replacing the rotating assembly with forged internals? (I have heard the connecting rod bolts are the main issue)
theres no way to "bulletproof" the engine without removing from the car. Rod bolts are NOT even close to the the main issue. The top ring land is weak. It breaks easily. If you run the afr on the rich side (11.2:1) and keep timing low (10-11 degrees and pull a couple degrees on the gear changes)

Is it necessary with such low boost to resleeve it? Sorry...LMAO...no

Are the factory heads okay for boost? Or should the valves/springs be changed, to accommodate a turbo cam with bigger lift for the increased airflow? More than likely will have them ported as well. Heads are fine. Springs will need to be changed, especially if you in stall a cam. A mild cam will gain you a good amount of power at the same boost level.

And should I have the heads ported flow tested to determine what cam I should get? I am still ignorant on cam selection. No. I mean if you want to, you can, but its not needed. The summit ghost cam is a really good cam that will lope a small amount and drive like stock. if you dont want to put a stall in it, use the texas speed high light truck cam with 212/218 duration on a 112 lobe sep.

And finally, the turbos. I am ignorant to turbo selection as well, what size is needed, how much psi they produce and whatnot. I've read ls motors spool a 68-75mm turbo very quickly to produce my psi goal very easily, so do they make turbos half that size? Two 34mm turbos making the same pressure as one 68mm? I have no answer to this because I'm running a single turbo.

I'm wanting the twin setup as it doesn't seem like many exist, mostly the procharger or a single big turbo setup. I think a symmetrical engine setup will look nice as well. I have someone who can tune, and a local machine shop and exhaust shop that can do that work. Just need to throw a kit together for the other components and find some decent turbos, and depending on the answers to my other questions probably some other components.

Thanks in advance for any links to helpful pages, kits online, etc.
I have found an ls twin turbo kit online and may end up going with it, but i still need to know about my other questions about my engine.
Read the replies in bold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Most of you are trying to tell me I need to drop a lot of in my car for it to be functional, while others are saying bolting on a turbo and running 8psi on a stock LS will be absolutely fine, and by no means am I trying to blow my engine up, and I would like to do as much preventative work as I can just to ensure that it doesn't get damaged. I plan to buy an iron block and have it bored over and drop a stroker kit in it and slapping this same setup on it, but for now I just want to simply slap two turbos on it with a max of 8psi, a turbo cam and turbo springs, a better flowing intake and tb, injectors and fuel pump and have it tuned for a max 600 fwhp, nothing too crazy, just a little head turner. There are 5 other GTO's in my town that I have ran into, and all of their's are 05-06 with the ls2s and cammed and better looking than mine (I have clear coat coming off and my rims are ugly and missing center caps, the lug nut plastic caps, and some of the valve stem caps) so I simply want to make mine shine when I open the hood and they realize its a sleeper.
So I just need help with necessary precautions, because Its not that I don't trust the people I know in person, as I know they've built some fast f-ing cars, but I am going to daily this not race it and I do want it to last.

So far the only thing I've found is that the rod bolts are weak points and overheating is an issue, which I've been told to get a 4 corner steam vent kit to help it keep cool, and I may very well get an after market radiator and possibly even an electric water pump if I start to experience those issues.
So some other questions I have concerning necessary precautions,
should I use a thicker head gasket to drop the CR? (I will use ARP head bolts as well)
are the 1 piece drive shaft and upgraded cv axles necessary for daily driving?
What would be a good option for the rear end, gear wise (for better performance without losing daily drivability)?
And around what size injectors and fuel pump are normally ran for this application? Using those online calculators the stock 58psi regulator would only need 43lb/hr, and there are some decent priced sets on Summit but they're all way higher than 43, like I have a set in my cart now that's 50lb/hr, so that should give me plenty of room to tune without maxing them out or having a bad idle, but I dont know what size fuel pump I need to supply the fuel, I dont know if there's some equation I need to do or something, like 50lb/hr injectors x 8 is 400lb/hr? I have a direct fit pump in my cart thats 265lb/hr, is this too small? 70gph over stock 40gph?

Anything else I may need would be helpful. So far all I can find reading forums is people going well into the $10k range on their builds and not really having the same goal as me, and everyone I know is saying I don't need anything and I dont want to destroy my engine.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Most of you are trying to tell me I need to drop a lot of in my car for it to be functional, while others are saying bolting on a turbo and running 8psi on a stock LS will be absolutely fine, and by no means am I trying to blow my engine up, and I would like to do as much preventative work as I can just to ensure that it doesn't get damaged. I plan to buy an iron block and have it bored over and drop a stroker kit in it and slapping this same setup on it, but for now I just want to simply slap two turbos on it with a max of 8psi, a turbo cam and turbo springs, a better flowing intake and tb, injectors and fuel pump and have it tuned for a max 600 fwhp, nothing too crazy, just a little head turner. There are 5 other GTO's in my town that I have ran into, and all of their's are 05-06 with the ls2s and cammed and better looking than mine (I have clear coat coming off and my rims are ugly and missing center caps, the lug nut plastic caps, and some of the valve stem caps) so I simply want to make mine shine when I open the hood and they realize its a sleeper.
So I just need help with necessary precautions, because Its not that I don't trust the people I know in person, as I know they've built some fast f-ing cars, but I am going to daily this not race it and I do want it to last.

So far the only thing I've found is that the rod bolts are weak points and overheating is an issue, which I've been told to get a 4 corner steam vent kit to help it keep cool, and I may very well get an after market radiator and possibly even an electric water pump if I start to experience those issues.
So some other questions I have concerning necessary precautions,
should I use a thicker head gasket to drop the CR? (I will use ARP head bolts as well)
are the 1 piece drive shaft and upgraded cv axles necessary for daily driving?
What would be a good option for the rear end, gear wise (for better performance without losing daily drivability)?
And around what size injectors and fuel pump are normally ran for this application? Using those online calculators the stock 58psi regulator would only need 43lb/hr, and there are some decent priced sets on Summit but they're all way higher than 43, like I have a set in my cart now that's 50lb/hr, so that should give me plenty of room to tune without maxing them out or having a bad idle, but I dont know what size fuel pump I need to supply the fuel, I dont know if there's some equation I need to do or something, like 50lb/hr injectors x 8 is 400lb/hr? I have a direct fit pump in my cart thats 265lb/hr, is this too small? 70gph over stock 40gph?

Anything else I may need would be helpful. So far all I can find reading forums is people going well into the $10k range on their builds and not really having the same goal as me, and everyone I know is saying I don't need anything and I dont want to destroy my engine.
Thanks
According to summits calculator, my goal of 600hp / an estimated 0.6 BSFC X 1.6 lbs/l gives approximately 225lph, and this pump is 265. So im just going to assume these 50 lb injectors and 265lph fuel pump should be plenty for my goals, as I don't want to go too big and get too much power, id rather limit myself to less power. And at summit its right at $600 for it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Most of you are trying to tell me I need to drop a lot of in my car for it to be functional, while others are saying bolting on a turbo and running 8psi on a stock LS will be absolutely fine, and by no means am I trying to blow my engine up, and I would like to do as much preventative work as I can just to ensure that it doesn't get damaged. I plan to buy an iron block and have it bored over and drop a stroker kit in it and slapping this same setup on it, but for now I just want to simply slap two turbos on it with a max of 8psi, a turbo cam and turbo springs, a better flowing intake and tb, injectors and fuel pump and have it tuned for a max 600 fwhp, nothing too crazy, just a little head turner. There are 5 other GTO's in my town that I have ran into, and all of their's are 05-06 with the ls2s and cammed and better looking than mine (I have clear coat coming off and my rims are ugly and missing center caps, the lug nut plastic caps, and some of the valve stem caps) so I simply want to make mine shine when I open the hood and they realize its a sleeper.
So I just need help with necessary precautions, because Its not that I don't trust the people I know in person, as I know they've built some fast f-ing cars, but I am going to daily this not race it and I do want it to last.

So far the only thing I've found is that the rod bolts are weak points and overheating is an issue, which I've been told to get a 4 corner steam vent kit to help it keep cool, and I may very well get an after market radiator and possibly even an electric water pump if I start to experience those issues.
So some other questions I have concerning necessary precautions,
should I use a thicker head gasket to drop the CR? (I will use ARP head bolts as well)
are the 1 piece drive shaft and upgraded cv axles necessary for daily driving?
What would be a good option for the rear end, gear wise (for better performance without losing daily drivability)?
And around what size injectors and fuel pump are normally ran for this application? Using those online calculators the stock 58psi regulator would only need 43lb/hr, and there are some decent priced sets on Summit but they're all way higher than 43, like I have a set in my cart now that's 50lb/hr, so that should give me plenty of room to tune without maxing them out or having a bad idle, but I dont know what size fuel pump I need to supply the fuel, I dont know if there's some equation I need to do or something, like 50lb/hr injectors x 8 is 400lb/hr? I have a direct fit pump in my cart thats 265lb/hr, is this too small? 70gph over stock 40gph?

Anything else I may need would be helpful. So far all I can find reading forums is people going well into the $10k range on their builds and not really having the same goal as me, and everyone I know is saying I don't need anything and I dont want to destroy my engine.
Thanks
You need to get the ROD BOLTS theory out of your head. The rod bolts are not weak in your engine. The pistons are tho. Is you have a 2004 5.7 gto or ls2 gto, you have gen 4 rods which are very strong. The bolt are only a concern if you plan on turning 7500rpm. I have to assume since this is a daily driver, you aren’t going to run a huge cam and expensive valve train to turn those rpms. So stop worrying about a problem that isn’t there.

As far as injectors go, I think you are worried about another non problem. If you put in 80lb injectors now, which I recommend, you are t going to have a problem getting it to idle. Just get some deka 80’s and that will let you grow quite a bit for later. Your idea of getting smaller injectors now so you will limit the boost will bite you in the ass. Trust me. Get 80’s now because you will end up pushing it more than 8psi. It’ll hold 10 psi no problem. It’ll actually hold 12psi if you run it rich with the timing at 10-11 degrees.

Btw, what I’m telling you is from my actual trial and errors, so you should listen to what I’m telling you. I’ve been in your shoes not long ago.

Fuel pump. One aeromotive 340 will get you by on pump gas. I personally stayed away from the walbro and deautchworks pumps because of the failures and problems I’ve witnessed. I chose a more expensive aeromotive 340 because I don’t want to be stranded because I bought a cheaper pump.

Use ls9 head gaskets if you pull the heads off. Using thicker gaskets to drop compression is never a good idea. It kills the quench.

I put a cold case radiator in mine and noticed no temp drop. Save your money there. Electric water pump isn’t needed.

The 04 driveshaft WILL NOT hold up long. It’ll rip the guibos to shreds. Been there. Done that. The 05-06 is stronger, but the pinion flange is different. My diff was making noise so I put a low mileage 06 in it along with the driveshaft. Been holding for 2 plus years.

I would not waste my money on a 265lph pump btw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
My twin turbo car has been on 8lbs of boost since 2008 on a stock LS2 with only the exhaust valve springs upgraded at the time the GenTTR turbo kit was installed at 20k miles. It now has 87k miles. The long since discontinued kit was a competitor with the better known APS kit and it used flipped stock manifolds and internal wastegated T28 flanged turbos that were either journal bearing 48lb compressors or actual Garrett GT2871rs that are placed right behind the headlights. While the APS system has probably more ultimate power potential and the stealth factor since you don’t see the turbos, the GenTTR has turbos right there when you pop open the hood. Both of those sized old kits can make 500 to 550 rwh on 8lbs with a stock LS1 or LS2 and mine and others are proof that the stock shortblock can live with those power and boost levels as long as you do not get greedy with the tune or boost. By today’s standards the turbos used in these kits are small but they are extremely responsive and more than capable up to the levels of power that the stock shortblock can handle.
The one thing that you will find though is while you do get the bling effect with twin turbos and it sounds cool saying you have a twin turbo car, it seems that now a days everyone thinks that if it’s twin turbo you should make 900 to 1000 hp and they wont be that impressed with 500-600 hp. To me that hasn’t mattered as until recently mine has served as a daily street car with a 70 mile round trip commute and reliability and fun to drive have been the most important factors to me. Currently I run 60lbs Deka injectors and a drop in Walbro pump along with a stock intake and throttle body. Until my stock radiator cracked around 4k miles ago I had no problem with overheating with the stock radiator and water pump although I did replace it with a Mishimoto radiator when it did go bad. Even at these power levels you need to look at eventually upgrading the driveline although I have had two completely stock 500 rwh Magnacharged cars with completely stock drivetrain components although I did upgrade all the bushings. A lot of that will depend on how you drive and how hard you beat on it especially from a launch.
The problem with forced induction is you always end up wanting more and that is where you really start spending the money. I have been gathering parts over the last couple of years to take my twin turbo car to the 900 rwh level reliably now that I have taken it out of daily duty and that takes forged internals, bigger turbos, bigger fuel system , trans and rear end upgrades that can easily cost more than the car did especially if you have to have someone else do the work. I do all mine and shop for bargains continually and it is going to be an additional $10k to get there again reliably.
If you weren’t set on turbos I would actually recommend going with an LSA or Magnacharger supercharger for the power levels you are after on a stock shortblock. Unless you go forged shortblock now so you can turn the boost up with E85 or race gas you won’t have any real advantage with the turbo setup over a good supercharger on the street, especially for a daily. With your budget it would be easier unless you go your own fab work or stumble on a good deal on an old kit like mine, an APS or UPP kit.
If you do go turbo or twin turbo just remember it is the tune that kills most of them on stock internals with pump gas not weak parts.
506332
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You need to get the ROD BOLTS theory out of your head. The rod bolts are not weak in your engine. The pistons are tho. Is you have a 2004 5.7 gto or ls2 gto, you have gen 4 rods which are very strong. The bolt are only a concern if you plan on turning 7500rpm. I have to assume since this is a daily driver, you aren’t going to run a huge cam and expensive valve train to turn those rpms. So stop worrying about a problem that isn’t there.

As far as injectors go, I think you are worried about another non problem. If you put in 80lb injectors now, which I recommend, you are t going to have a problem getting it to idle. Just get some deka 80’s and that will let you grow quite a bit for later. Your idea of getting smaller injectors now so you will limit the boost will bite you in the ass. Trust me. Get 80’s now because you will end up pushing it more than 8psi. It’ll hold 10 psi no problem. It’ll actually hold 12psi if you run it rich with the timing at 10-11 degrees.

Btw, what I’m telling you is from my actual trial and errors, so you should listen to what I’m telling you. I’ve been in your shoes not long ago.

Fuel pump. One aeromotive 340 will get you by on pump gas. I personally stayed away from the walbro and deautchworks pumps because of the failures and problems I’ve witnessed. I chose a more expensive aeromotive 340 because I don’t want to be stranded because I bought a cheaper pump.

Use ls9 head gaskets if you pull the heads off. Using thicker gaskets to drop compression is never a good idea. It kills the quench.

I put a cold case radiator in mine and noticed no temp drop. Save your money there. Electric water pump isn’t needed.

The 04 driveshaft WILL NOT hold up long. It’ll rip the guibos to shreds. Been there. Done that. The 05-06 is stronger, but the pinion flange is different. My diff was making noise so I put a low mileage 06 in it along with the driveshaft. Been holding for 2 plus years.

I would not waste my money on a 265lph pump btw.
Absolutely awesome reply. Answered so many of my questions and some I didn't even think to ask.

I did plan to put a turbo cam and springs in it, keeping my redline at 6k, but if its not necessary I may save that money from the cam/springs/timing chain/head gaskets/head bolts.

I found the fuel pump you mentioned on summit for the same price as the 265lph one, so thats a definite.

As for those injectors it seems they're unavailable everywhere except a site called zzperformance asking $269. Im trying to get everything off summit so I only have 1 order and minimal shipments, but the only thing they have is the deatschwerks 78lb, for like $519. So since you're saying that brand is no good I'm just going to go with the deka on the other site, however some reviews are saying they aren't the actual deka brand, but are accurate to the 80lb so I think it should be ok.

If I do decide to cam it I found a twin turbo timing cover I may go with to make the oil plumbing easier, and while I'm in there swap to an ls2 timing chain.

Would a 102mm intake/throttle body be overkill? I know the ls1 intake is the worst one so I do want to upgrade that, but i found an intake on summit that's name brand they just put their own name on for $100 less lol, its 102mm intake with fuel rails and a 102mm throttle body for a lower price than the name brand intakes alone.
Only thing I'm looking at now is the rear end, from what I've read the 3.70 gears will give me a little more fun without making it too hard to daily. So im probably going to get this motive gear set and a master rebuild kit and make sure the rear end is good to go. Along with the one piece drive shaft im hoping my back half will be stout enough to take this extra power.

After reading yours and ondatracks comments I feel more comfortable and confident in my build/goals. So thank you for that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
My twin turbo car has been on 8lbs of boost since 2008 on a stock LS2 with only the exhaust valve springs upgraded at the time the GenTTR turbo kit was installed at 20k miles. It now has 87k miles. The long since discontinued kit was a competitor with the better known APS kit and it used flipped stock manifolds and internal wastegated T28 flanged turbos that were either journal bearing 48lb compressors or actual Garrett GT2871rs that are placed right behind the headlights. While the APS system has probably more ultimate power potential and the stealth factor since you don’t see the turbos, the GenTTR has turbos right there when you pop open the hood. Both of those sized old kits can make 500 to 550 rwh on 8lbs with a stock LS1 or LS2 and mine and others are proof that the stock shortblock can live with those power and boost levels as long as you do not get greedy with the tune or boost. By today’s standards the turbos used in these kits are small but they are extremely responsive and more than capable up to the levels of power that the stock shortblock can handle.
The one thing that you will find though is while you do get the bling effect with twin turbos and it sounds cool saying you have a twin turbo car, it seems that now a days everyone thinks that if it’s twin turbo you should make 900 to 1000 hp and they wont be that impressed with 500-600 hp. To me that hasn’t mattered as until recently mine has served as a daily street car with a 70 mile round trip commute and reliability and fun to drive have been the most important factors to me. Currently I run 60lbs Deka injectors and a drop in Walbro pump along with a stock intake and throttle body. Until my stock radiator cracked around 4k miles ago I had no problem with overheating with the stock radiator and water pump although I did replace it with a Mishimoto radiator when it did go bad. Even at these power levels you need to look at eventually upgrading the driveline although I have had two completely stock 500 rwh Magnacharged cars with completely stock drivetrain components although I did upgrade all the bushings. A lot of that will depend on how you drive and how hard you beat on it especially from a launch.
The problem with forced induction is you always end up wanting more and that is where you really start spending the money. I have been gathering parts over the last couple of years to take my twin turbo car to the 900 rwh level reliably now that I have taken it out of daily duty and that takes forged internals, bigger turbos, bigger fuel system , trans and rear end upgrades that can easily cost more than the car did especially if you have to have someone else do the work. I do all mine and shop for bargains continually and it is going to be an additional $10k to get there again reliably.
If you weren’t set on turbos I would actually recommend going with an LSA or Magnacharger supercharger for the power levels you are after on a stock shortblock. Unless you go forged shortblock now so you can turn the boost up with E85 or race gas you won’t have any real advantage with the turbo setup over a good supercharger on the street, especially for a daily. With your budget it would be easier unless you go your own fab work or stumble on a good deal on an old kit like mine, an APS or UPP kit.
If you do go turbo or twin turbo just remember it is the tune that kills most of them on stock internals with pump gas not weak parts. View attachment 506332
Awesome info, thank you for sharing that build, that's gorgeous man. I plan to go all out on the piping and turbo and coat them and wrap them and make my engine bay as neat tidy and clean as possible, as the outside is pretty ugly due to clear coat fading so it makes it more of a sleeper to me. I want them to think "oh thats just a old ls1 car, let me pull up with my new bought not built mustang/challenger" lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
Only thing I'm looking at now is the rear end, from what I've read the 3.70 gears will give me a little more fun without making it too hard to daily. So im probably going to get this motive gear set and a master rebuild kit and make sure the rear end is good to go. Along with the one piece drive shaft im hoping my back half will be stout enough to take this extra power.
I would not go a lower gear(higher numerical) than the stock 3.46 as it will actually hurt your spool up especially with the already low 1st gear you have in a 4L60E. If a N/A build with a large cam yes it will get you to peak torque faster but with a turbo you actually need to load the engine to build boost and the 3.70 gear will not put as much load as long on the engine in each gear. I am switching from my stock ratio T56 to a higher(lower numerical) F body first gear ratio in my T56 Magnum to help load the engine more. Save up for a higher stall converter instead.
Deka 60s would be plenty of injector if you cannot find 80s unless you are going to run E85, they drive like stock, the data is readily available and they are easy to tune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Absolutely awesome reply. Answered so many of my questions and some I didn't even think to ask.

I did plan to put a turbo cam and springs in it, keeping my redline at 6k, but if its not necessary I may save that money from the cam/springs/timing chain/head gaskets/head bolts. the stock cam will make 500hp on boost easily. DO NOT PUT MUCH EMPHASIS on a "turbo" cam. Any cam will work just as well, pick a cam that does what you want. 6000rpm is too low of an rpm, ESPECIALLY with 3.70 gears....You are contradicting yourself on some things in your plan!

I found the fuel pump you mentioned on summit for the same price as the 265lph one, so thats a definite. Yes, get the aeromotive

As for those injectors it seems they're unavailable everywhere except a site called zzperformance asking $269. Im trying to get everything off summit so I only have 1 order and minimal shipments, but the only thing they have is the deatschwerks 78lb, for like $519. So since you're saying that brand is no good I'm just going to go with the deka on the other site, however some reviews are saying they aren't the actual deka brand, but are accurate to the 80lb so I think it should be ok.
DO NOT GET KNOCKOFF INJECTORS! if you go to the deka injector section on siemens website, it tell you how to spot them. I dont care what the internets says, avoid knockoffs. They dont flow the same as each other (BAD!) and the injector data wont be correct and will cause sporadic operation and tune issues. Ok in a race car, not ok in a daily driver.

If I do decide to cam it I found a twin turbo timing cover I may go with to make the oil plumbing easier, and while I'm in there swap to an ls2 timing chain. DO NOT waste money on that. see my thread on how I made a drain back in my cover. No welding required. just JBweld and a drill bit and a thread tap.

Would a 102mm intake/throttle body be overkill? I know the ls1 intake is the worst one so I do want to upgrade that, but i found an intake on summit that's name brand they just put their own name on for $100 less lol, its 102mm intake with fuel rails and a 102mm throttle body for a lower price than the name brand intakes alone.
Only thing I'm looking at now is the rear end, from what I've read the 3.70 gears will give me a little more fun without making it too hard to daily. So im probably going to get this motive gear set and a master rebuild kit and make sure the rear end is good to go. Along with the one piece drive shaft im hoping my back half will be stout enough to take this extra power. YOU DO NOT NEED a bigger than stock throttle body. its a waste of time and money. If you are hellbent on changing manifolds, fine, but a 102 or even a 92mm cable drive throttle body will be very touchy off idle...in a bad way. I have a 92mm and i had to mod it and go through lots of trial and error in my tune to tone it down and it still isnt exactly what I want. I really want to put a stock throttle body back on it. If you have a stock ls1 gto intake, you actually have a LS1 intake.....which is a VERY good intake and i would NOT change it. I changed mine and I regret it. If you have an F body LS1 intake, then I agree, they arent that great.....but not that big of a deal. You really wont be giving up much power. Leave the gears you have. Putting gears in it with a Turbo. Thats totally going backwards. A turbo needs a load to do its thing. Thats what makes it build boost. A turbo LIKES less gear.

After reading yours and ondatracks comments I feel more comfortable and confident in my build/goals. So thank you for that!
See the bold above. I know youve never done this before and I have so I'm trying to help you avois the money wasted and mistakes I've made. You really are planning on wasting alot of money on items you dont need or will set you a step back. Your 6000 rpm goal is silly. The stock cam pulls that high, actually mine pulled a little higher. The lower you shift, the lower your recovery rpm will be AND the more loaded the turbo will be which is a recipe for bent connecting rods. It will also be more likely drop down in your tq peak which is more susceptible to detonation....which is bad. 6500-6800-7000rpm is a better goal. I was shifting my stock bottom end ls1 at 7000-7100 for over three years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Heres some places to buy dekas....And btw.....shameless plug, i may sell my dekas (real dekas) with injector data. My buddy has a set of bigger bosch injectors I might buy....




these are good injectors too....good price and come with data

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
See the bold above. I know youve never done this before and I have so I'm trying to help you avois the money wasted and mistakes I've made. You really are planning on wasting alot of money on items you dont need or will set you a step back. Your 6000 rpm goal is silly. The stock cam pulls that high, actually mine pulled a little higher. The lower you shift, the lower your recovery rpm will be AND the more loaded the turbo will be which is a recipe for bent connecting rods. It will also be more likely drop down in your tq peak which is more susceptible to detonation....which is bad. 6500-6800-7000rpm is a better goal. I was shifting my stock bottom end ls1 at 7000-7100 for over three years.
Dang man, the way you guys keep putting it i really only need fuel system, turbos and turbo accessories and a tune.

I'm probably going to take it one step at a time, install turbos and fuel system and tune it, definitely going to add a 4 corner steam vent and relocate the battery to the trunk and street tune it, that way I can use the saved money to upgrade the brakes, the driveshaft, and the suspension and get the actual car up to par, then ill go all out with the cam and have it dyno tuned.

Do you really think the ls1 intake is worth it though? Power Nation tested 20 different intakes and it flowed the worst and produced the least amount of power. But its $600 id save so im not too worried about it lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
706 Posts
A better performing intake will still produce more power. Just not quite as limiting as N/A since boost pressure can be turned up.

Keep in mind boost psi is actually a measure of restriction. If swapping intakes later and pressure drops that doesnt mean less power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Dang man, the way you guys keep putting it i really only need fuel system, turbos and turbo accessories and a tune.

I'm probably going to take it one step at a time, install turbos and fuel system and tune it, definitely going to add a 4 corner steam vent and relocate the battery to the trunk and street tune it, that way I can use the saved money to upgrade the brakes, the driveshaft, and the suspension and get the actual car up to par, then ill go all out with the cam and have it dyno tuned.

Do you really think the ls1 intake is worth it though? Power Nation tested 20 different intakes and it flowed the worst and produced the least amount of power. But its $600 id save so im not too worried about it lol
Do you have an LS1 intake? Like did you buy and f body (camaro/firebird) intake and put it on your car? If not, and you have an 04 GTO with the factory intake, ITS NOT AN LS1 INTAKE. Its an LS6 intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Do you have an LS1 intake? Like did you buy and f body (camaro/firebird) intake and put it on your car? If not, and you have an 04 GTO with the factory intake, ITS NOT AN LS1 INTAKE. Its an LS6 intake.
Okay, thats something I didn't know. I thought the 05-06 had the ls6 intake and 04 had ls1. Thats awesome then, because the ls6 intake flows way better than the ls1. Shit man, im just gonna go with what I got and decide whether or not im going to cam it. The cam i was looking at is
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,569 Posts
Okay, thats something I didn't know. I thought the 05-06 had the ls6 intake and 04 had ls1. Thats awesome then, because the ls6 intake flows way better than the ls1. Shit man, im just gonna go with what I got and decide whether or not im going to cam it. The cam i was looking at is
lol I could have just let you buy an intake and offered you $150 for your intake lmao. Your good there. That camshaft is not a bad choice but you'd do just as good with this cam (you'll only lose about 7rwhp) and it will have better daily driver manners and still pull to 6800-
7000. so; cheaper, little smaller, same power with better midrang and bottom end and driveability....daily driver cam all the way around. btw, this is the same cam I have...so i know for a fact it drives nice. :) Summit Racing SUM-8715-1 Summit Racing® Pro LS Camshafts | Summit Racing
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top