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Discussion Starter #1
I have the guages installed and they have powered up and are scanning. My problem is they will not power down. They are getting power from the OBD II and it seems like my OBD II is consistantly powered up as the guages do not shut down under ANY circumstances except pulling the OBD II connector.

They are the V.2 guages so they should be getting power from the red wires on the add-a-fuse correct?. Why is this happening
 

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gotta love a gto
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how many power wires do you have. one of them is must be in constant 12v ckt. should be on switched ckt. from ign switch i don't have a schematic to see how you are wired up.
 

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CAUTION!!!!
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the only thing I can say (I got V2 also) is that you accidently put the add a fuse in analways on fuse. Sean at Top Shelf as a really great detailed and full of pics install on these.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have 2 red (power) wires going into one "add a circuit" hooked in to the accessory #17 ACC Socket fuse. Didnt work, still stay on when car is off, key is out.

Then switched it to an ignition fuse #14 Cigar Lighter. Didnt work, see above. This time I got a "Fuel Gauge Error Contact Dealer" Message. Nice

Tried again using the accessory #16 Radio/Cell Phone connection...see above. When I did this, the radio would not turn off even when car was off and key was out.

Completely removed the add a circuit (i.e power for the guages) from the fuse box and the guages were still getting power from the OBD II even with the key out of the ignition/ car locked, etc.

Cannot understand why these things will not power down. Put a voltometer in the slots were the fuses were going and when ignition was off, they were not getting any power and vise versa when the ignition was on.

If you're confused so am I.
 

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RIP George...
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gotzaGTO said:
the only thing I can say (I got V2 also) is that you accidently put the add a fuse in analways on fuse. Sean at Top Shelf as a really great detailed and full of pics install on these.
+1 on this. Mine did the same thing the first time I fired them up. I moved the connector to a different fuse in the fusebox and they were fine.
 

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Beer Geek
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Then switched it to an ignition fuse #14 Cigar Lighter. Didnt work, see above. This time I got a "Fuel Gauge Error Contact Dealer" Message. Nice
Son of a gun. I was running mine off the actual cigar lighter tap under the factory radio and had recurrent fuel gage errors as well. I have them (v2.0) out right now, and and RA from Aeroforce to check them out while Dublin Motor Sports has my car.

Did you pin everything out to see what you have?

For the white connectors at the actual scan gauges I only have three connectors at zero ohms, class II serial data direct from the PCM, ground and 12vdc+. Long description including DLC pinout is in the thread I started with 'free sex' in the title, electronics section.

On mine the gages are grounded and get data through the DLC, but I have infinite ohms between the 12vdc+ DLC pin and everything else I got from aeroforce. So zero ohms from end of the white wire to the same pin on each white connector, but infinite ohms between those three points (I have duals) and everything else.

My best current guess, if Aeroforce can't find anything wrong, is I am going to move the ground from the DLC to the same accy circuit from which I am drawing 12vdc+. It doesn't seem like it should be enough current to make a difference....

EDIT: the 'free sex' thread is here: http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91750 , there is a link in post one of that thread to the thread Willow started with pictures of the wiring short behind the glove box.

FWIW my 04 is a pre-vin break May build, I get software flashes instead of a new cluster; my v 2.0 interceptors have the white power lead coming out of the DLC connector but they power up a couple seconds apart and power off a couple seconds apart. Running from the actual cigar lighter connector under the radio mine have always powered down promptly on key off/ key out.
 

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Oh my f*ck!
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Definitely sounds like something is wrong here...And just so you know there are more than two versions of these gauges :) There's high and low temp screen versions, version one with ODBII power, version two with separate power wire, and a third version with lights on the face and new settings. Mine are high temp version twos and they have never had a problem with powering off. They also both power up at the exact same time (some people's don't for whatever reason).

I would tend to agree that they're wired wrong - actually, it honestly sounds like your cord has both the external +12V and internal +12V (through the ODBII port) wired up at the same time.

I would recommend unplugging the gauges and probing the pins on the cord plug.

EDIT
Oh and I believe mine are wired to the cell phone fuse with an add-a-fuse. I will check later just to make sure.
 

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Completely removed the add a circuit (i.e power for the gages) from the fuse box and the gages were still getting power from the OBD II even with the key out of the ignition/ car locked, etc.
It sounds like your interceptors are getting 12vdc+ from pin 16 on the DLC. If your DLC under the steering column is mounted wide side up and narrow side down, pin 16 is in the bottom right corner. It is an OG/BK wire on circuit 740.

How many ohms between the corresponding pin 16 on you AFT supplied connector, the white wire and/or the hot lead at the scan gauge connector? Mine is infinite, but yours is sounding like zero.

From Willow's thread linked above:

swmn said:
Also, looking carefully at Willow's pics above it SEEMS like exactly the same orange wire with black stripe shorted to ground on Willow's 20005 and swmn's 2004. That was the only wire in the whole bundle with a nick in the insulation. Mine goes to pin ten, connector one, BCM. According to Helm's for 2004, page 8-22, it is carrying battery positive voltage for circuit 740. I found circuit 740 on page 8-10, the OG/BK wire runs from the 10A under hood BCM fuse through points S105 and S106 on the way to BCM C1#10. We know (8-661) S is a splice and #100-199 are engine compartment, 200-299 are dashboard (8-659). Switches are drawn as switches (8-663), referring back to 8-10, S105 and S106 are emphatically drawn as splices.

S105 and S106 in circuit 740 appear in the schematic on page 8-683. From S105, circuit 740 supplies battery positive voltage to: S106, pin 6 of the ambient light sensor, pin 16 of the Data Link Connector, and dashboard harness connector C206. C206 feeds S120, so passing forward through the firewall again, we reach Pins #20 and 57 in connector one on the PCM. Backing up to S106, circuit 740 also supplies B+ to C1P10 on the BCM, and pin 85 on radiator fan relay #2.

Clearly having this circuit short to ground could cause all manner of interesting stuff. That pin 16 hit on the DLC explains why my interceptors don't work to good while the short is shorting.
Note circuit 740 is not switched, it supplies power to the ambient light sensor which includes the receiver for when you push the 'unlock' or 'trunk open' buttons on the key.
 

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gotta love a gto
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do these guages get their info from the cars' data link? if the data link is staying active then the ecm may not be shutting down.
 
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