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Discussion Starter #21
So a quick update on this.

The shop I took it to said one of my eccentric bushings was loose... this could have easily caused the tire wear issue. I'm not 100% convinced because this issue had occurred before I had eccentrics put in, but for now things seem to be holding up. (Other than my aftermarket motormounts that failed at the track...)

Hopefully it was just that the shop that installed them didn't tighten them enough.. One can only hope.
 

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That's because it was the answer to someone else's question lol.
 

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So a quick update on this.

The shop I took it to said one of my eccentric bushings was loose... this could have easily caused the tire wear issue. I'm not 100% convinced because this issue had occurred before I had eccentrics put in, but for now things seem to be holding up. (Other than my aftermarket motormounts that failed at the track...)

Hopefully it was just that the shop that installed them didn't tighten them enough.. One can only hope.
Can you tell me what shop you went to and where they're located? I've been looking for a good alignment place.


Thanks,
Cole
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Can you tell me what shop you went to and where they're located? I've been looking for a good alignment place.


Thanks,
Cole
I got referred to a BMW shop called Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas. They were expensive but they seemed to do a good job. Doesn't seem like my eccentrics in the rear have loosened so I'm happy so far.

Milpitas isn't close to Simi though unfortunately...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
A year and a half later and I have this problem again only now its much more pronounced on the driver side...

I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's one of two things:

Outer tie rod ends are stock and have 93k miles on them
The GTO needs more toe-in than regular cars

Could be inner tie rod or ball joints I suppose but it doesn't sound like those are as likely as the outer tie rod ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Main reason for tire wear is toe. It is best to set it at 0 toe for tire wear.
I've heard it said that you want slight toe in so under load the wheels are straight. Then I red that GTOs front wheels splay back more than most due to suspension geometry and should use extra toe-in to avoid toe out wear, something along the lines of 0.10 on each wheel.

:dunno:

I'll try anything. Heck, maybe I'll just go under there and give each side a turn and see what happens. Couldn't hurt if they both change the same amount.
 

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I've heard it said that you want slight toe in so under load the wheels are straight. Then I red that GTOs front wheels splay back more than most due to suspension geometry and should use extra toe-in to avoid toe out wear, something along the lines of 0.10 on each wheel.

:dunno:

I'll try anything. Heck, maybe I'll just go under there and give each side a turn and see what happens. Couldn't hurt if they both change the same amount.
Not only because of suspension geometry. OEM suspension bushings on GTO are not that great and finding correct toe-in to compensate for all the movements under different loads will get you close to having correct toe on average, at best. And it will be off, lots of the time, in one or the other direction. Having strut mounts, control arm bushings and ball joints, radius arm bushings and tie rod ball joints in good order is starting point. If any of these parts are worn out, alignment is out the window the second you start driving again.
Upgrading to stronger, higher quality and in case of bushings, stiffer parts will keep the wheels in alignment more of the time. Tightening all the nuts and bolts in the suspension little pass specified torque may help with keeping it in alignment for longer (over-tighten at your own risk!!!).
 

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I have had issues for 2 years now with my camber changing routinely, ruining many many tires. Had to make some tabs to keep the knuckles in place.
I had this happen to me also when autox. Made some half moon shape inserts out of 3/16" thick aluminum to fit tight in the slot space at upper clevis bolt. Than smeared lots of blue loctite on the small camber adjuster bolts and tightened everything really tight. This way there is no movement, its all locked in.
 

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The rear tie rods are not tie(s) they are toe rods which should be self explanatory. There should be little to no toe, when you get your numbers the rod is locked down and you will find the inner eccentric bushings difficult if not impossible to turn. The front looks like a camber issue (a cheap way to check for excessive toe is to pull turns on a black top parking lot; there will likely be some (normal) squeak but if it sounds like 3 rats in a water bucket it's out) there is an 8mm screw at the top of the spindle, it locks the camber by making firm contact with the strut or in your case the coil over body. With it setup the camber in relation to the spindle/strut can not go more negative. It is (in theory) possible to pull those threads, not likely but if you look at everything and still have a problem you didn't look at everything. Was there also an eccentric top mount with the coil overs? If that is not torqued to spec the mount can turn in it's place, since there is 16-18” between it and the bottom mount it takes very little to can the setup and the locking screw on the spindle will not help you in that case. May be a bushing thing, if you are still on OEM's take them out, throw them as far as you can, find them and throw them again, repeat until you are no longer homicidal toward the engineer that thought that BS was a good idea (I'm out to 2 miles and still got it in for that sob). Are the radius rod bushings after market and if so the caster adjustable type? That is another thing that can move around. Do not take the shop's word on everything torqued, trust me on this one; if it is less than a cake walk (such as the outer rear CA bushings) don't say I didn't warn you, check everything. As far as alignment you will need to look long and hard for a shop that will setup anything outside of factory spec; it is purely a liability issue. After 3 attempts, 3 different shops, specing the numbers I wanted, watch the service managers write them on the order, instructing them on the adjustments (and note it) (4 camber bolts on the front, 4 bushings rear) going ON TO THE SHOP FLOOR showing the tech('s) exactly what to do and not getting even close to my numbers I bought the tools and now do it myself. The last (small, privately owned) shop gave me the 411 on setting up out of factory spec; strictly CYA. The tools are simple, no black magic involved and not very expensive (less than the cost of 2 alignments) but it IS a pain in the azz and not for everyone. Many will say such as 'That's just the way ____ are' and be happy with blowing it off and bad mouthing, if it's that annoying sell it to me. While it may be true in many cases that does not mean it has to stay that way, you don't change plugs due to a miss, still have it and blame the new plugs as well because 'That's just the way ____ are' when the real problem is the flaky wire on #3.
 
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