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Enjoy the trolls
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Well I finally switched over to synthetic Mobil 1 5W30 today at exactly 860 miles on the odometer. I figured if it's good enough as standard factory oil for Corvettes, Porsches, Aston Martins, BMWs, Vipers, and Mustang Cobras, then it's good enough for the GTO.



I really like the design of the skid plate protecting the aluminum oil pan.I bet that oil pan will shatter like a glass vase if it hit a rock and the skid plate wasn't there. The oil pan and the oil filter sit way lower than the engine frame so the belly is definitely exposed. The skid plate did not feel very heavy at all but looked quite beefy and sturdy. All the tech had to do was loosen 3 out of 4 bolts and swivel it around.




I was amazed at how black the factory oil is at 860 miles.



I let the techs look around the vehicle quite a bit and since I was the only one there, I gave them a thorough show and tell about the goat to give the engine enough time to completely drain. We then filled it with just a little bit over 6 quarts of Super Syn.



I reset the oil life monitor then drove off. The out the door price was not bad : $40.90. It is only about 12-15 dollars above regular dino price.

I plan on changing every 5K from now on. It would be interesting to see if the oil life monitor will ask for an oil change before then. I will be searching eBay now for a Corvette style magnetic drain plug and Mobil 1 cap sticker. The tech discouraged me from installing a Fram quick drain type plug because he said it almost always leaks. He had no problem at all removing the factory oil drain plug and filter. I love going down into the pit to look up and see what my girl has underneath...

:gr_jest: :gr_jest:
 

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Premium Member
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:cool: Now all you need is a Mobil 1 oil cap and Mobil 1 factory fill Plate. :hail:
If your interested give me a p.m.
:secret: I have an extra set
 

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desertgoat said:
I plan on changing every 5K from now on.
Everyone thinks that just because they run synthetic they get 6k or 9k miles or some number they read in there little manual etc. Do yourself a favor and change it every 3,000 miles.
 

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shotgun said:
Everyone thinks that just because they run synthetic they get 6k or 9k miles or some number they read in there little manual etc. Do yourself a favor and change it every 3,000 miles.
You don't need to change it that often in a N/A application. I have done the 5K oil change on all my cars that haven't been a turbo. They looked fine. The WS6 that spun a bearing at 50K miles(pickup fell off), looked brand new save for the #4 rod bearing. Have over a 100K on the Malibu and its going fine.

I have a couple friends that go 10K between changes and they are over 125K miles on their cars with no problems.
 

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Upstairs in the basement
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I agree with Rob, in all my cars since 1999 I have just followed the GM oil life meter and used Mobil 1. Oil changes were every 5-6k depending on my driving and that is with racing the cars quite frequently too. I had over 90k on my GTP running 13.0 and it did not burn any oil between changes or have any problems at all. Same with the Vette at 40k in just a year and a half of ownership. Of course most of my driving is on the highway and that does factory in, but the OLMS does know that and will compensate. Just FYI, I was reading this in one of the trade mags that came to the shop recently. The GM OLMS actually counts the revolutions of the motor. It will start with a predertermined number based on your engine and drivetrain, then as the car runs it counts backwards to 0. If you drive the car hard it will take away more than the actual revolutions, as a penalty so to speak. Then, when you get down to a certain amount left it will tell you to change your oil soon and you have about 600 miles to get it done and still have "good" oil in the pan.
 

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Member #804
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Group of dudes on LS1tech did a test to see how long M1 synthetic 5w30 would last with an oil test every 1,000 miles in LS1 Fbodys. They found 11,000 miles till test levels of copper lead and flash point etc. showed it needed to be changed. That sounds great and all but since I change tons of oil everyday I rarely get to 3,000 between oil changes. I had to contain myself with AMSoil that is marketed to last for 25,000 miles I gave up by 5,000:)
 

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GTOholic
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Must be nice to have a pit from where you can change your oil. Guess I'll grab my shovel and start digging...

That's the sexiest pic of a 5 quart jug of oil I have ever seen. Hubba Hubba! LOL

Last oil change I switched to the 10W30 Mobil 1. It's summer time and I drive HARD, too. I doubt a different grade oil made a difference, but my car sure is running good.

I'll be changing every 3K miles, just because I'm a nerd and tend to "follow checklists."
 

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Mod Hungry... Empty Wallet
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desertgoat said:
FLORIT said:
That's the sexiest pic of a 5 quart jug of oil I have ever seen. Hubba Hubba! LOL
Yeah... I was thinking the Holy Grail of oil there :gr_jest:
 

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Got V8
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phobos512 said:
Maybe I missed this in the manual but, oil life monitor?
I was thinking the same thing.
 

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Knight Errant
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ukcuf said:
I was thinking the same thing.
Yup, check the book folks, in case you forget, the oil life monitor onboard will remind you when the oil hits the skids and needs a change. Reset is key on, and two slow full strokes of the accelerator whenever you change it and key off.
 

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Enjoy the trolls
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Discussion Starter #13
R.t.f.m.

ukcuf said:
I was thinking the same thing.
But then again, the OLMS is a pretty useless gadget inserted by GM anyway, right? After all, folks like shotgun changes their oil very 3K no matter what.

BTW shotgun, thanks for the advice. I will stick to my 5K schedule.

Mobil 1 Super Syn every 5 thousand miles. No sooner, no later. No more, no less.
 

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This isn't your moms car its a gto, if you do ANY performance driving and don't check/keep up on oil you might as well just ready yourself for a 100,000k mile rebuild. Lets face it, 100,000 miles on a gto is probably like 200,000 miles of stress on any normal car. Then again I am different, if I bought a new GTO I would change the oil at 250, 500, 1000, and switch to synthetic about 2000 miles just to make sure I don't have any problems with sealing. Do what you want man, enjoy your car and don't neglect it :)
 

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Why do people install magnetic drain plugs &/or magnetic filter wraps on an all aluminum engine? Are aluminum alloys magnetic? What parts of the engine are steel? The crank, piston rings and valves? In areas where steel contacts aluminum wouldn't the softer metal (i.e. aluminum) be worn away?
 

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Upstairs in the basement
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M'BOBO said:
Why do people install magnetic drain plugs &/or magnetic filter wraps on an all aluminum engine? Are aluminum alloys magnetic? What parts of the engine are steel? The crank, piston rings and valves? In areas where steel contacts aluminum wouldn't the softer metal (i.e. aluminum) be worn away?
LOL I always wondered that myself. Oh and BTW.... neither of my two Corvettes came with a magnetic drain plug. However, my 03 Avalanche did.
 

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Upstairs in the basement
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DFWGTO said:
Piston rings, Cylinders, Cam, Lifters, Crank, all steel...
Yeah I hear ya there, I was just making reference to the fact that GM didnt think it was necessary in either of my other LS1 or LS6 motors, but they thought my 5.3 did need it, go figure :)
 

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May I quote you on that?
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M'BOBO said:
Why do people install magnetic drain plugs &/or magnetic filter wraps on an all aluminum engine? Are aluminum alloys magnetic? What parts of the engine are steel? The crank, piston rings and valves? In areas where steel contacts aluminum wouldn't the softer metal (i.e. aluminum) be worn away?
You still have iron sleeves in the cylinders. BMW and Jaguar found out the hard way that the softer metal is indeed worn away.
 

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Knight Errant
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M'BOBO said:
Why do people install magnetic drain plugs &/or magnetic filter wraps on an all aluminum engine? Are aluminum alloys magnetic? What parts of the engine are steel? The crank, piston rings and valves? In areas where steel contacts aluminum wouldn't the softer metal (i.e. aluminum) be worn away?
The parts you mention and...Connecting Rods (PM), Main caps (Steel), Camshaft (Billet Steel), Lifter Rollers and bearings (Steel), Rocker Bearings (Steel), Oil Pump Georotor, (Steel), Valve Springs & Caps, etc...in fact almost all the parts except the Block, Heads, Intake, and Oil Pan....the moving parts. If Steel or Iron is being abraded away in there anywhere, you want to catch it right away. Without a magnetic plug, your first clue will be the knock from the crankcase, or a loud BANG!, or if you ever get curious and cut a used filter open and find metal filings that stick to a magnet. One thing is for sure, if it sticks to the drain plug it isn't aluminum. It's a cheap clue to a large problem getting started. Invest the $4.00...JMHO :)
 
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