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street terrorist
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I'm getting ready to buy a intercooled procharger kit, how much should i expect at the wheels on 91 octane with a my drop in filter and muffler delete? is there anything else that i should get before my procharger kit? headers/cam/fuel?

how much more hp should i expect out of a tune if I get tuned with 100 octane instead of 91?

also, whats the most ammount of hp i can make with stock fuel system?

post your dyno charts :)
 

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We typically see a 140 rwhp gain at 8 psi of boost.

Check out this C6, which uses the same engine.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/projectCar.php?car=30
We started out at 323 rwhp on this bone stock C6 Corvette, and we are now at a consistant 470 rwhp. What a gain! 20 more rwhp than what a new C6 Z06 just did on another Mustang Chassis Dyno identical to ours. If this C6 had headers and a free flowing exhaust system, this Corvette would most likely be over 500 rwhp! The nice thing is the gas mileage will still be really good, and this car can still be a daily driver!

 

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I have a P1 kit. Bone stock, 474 to the wheels. 10 psi and alky- 543, 12 psi, Kooks and tune it did 648 on a dyno that is known to read a bit on the high side (not the same dyno the first two numbers came from) with a crushed plug and broken piston (got greedy with the tune :) ).

I know people go right to the D1 usually, but I am getting over 600 whp with a P1 and still have a bit left in it RPM wise before it is maxed.
Joe
 

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kwiktsi said:
I have a P1 kit. Bone stock, 474 to the wheels. 10 psi and alky- 543, 12 psi, Kooks and tune it did 648 on a dyno that is known to read a bit on the high side (not the same dyno the first two numbers came from) with a crushed plug and broken piston (got greedy with the tune :) ).

I know people go right to the D1 usually, but I am getting over 600 whp with a P1 and still have a bit left in it RPM wise before it is maxed.
Joe
you have just about sealed the fate for my car with post like that :lol:
 

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Goat Herder
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I've been looking at a Maggie all this time and kinda blew off a Procharger. But...I'm certainly interested now! What's the difference between a P1 and D1 and is it much harder to install then a Maggie? Price ranges?

Thanks!
 

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Hehe- that got some attention. As for the difference between the P1 and D1- I *think* the only mechanical difference is the impeller/compressor housing (somebody correct me if I am wrong). The D1 will provide much more air flow for larger displacement engines or high boost levels (over 12-14 psi or so). I was going to go with a D1, but from speaking with Procharger and reading over on corvetteforum and such, I found the P1 is more than capable on a stock motor and I have even heard/read that the P1 will make more hp to the wheels at lower boost levels due to it taking less hp to spin. Of course, once you get to the higher levels, that is negated anyway.

Also- all this "we make more power below the curve" crap you'll hear- yes, they do BUT- I hit 375 ft-lbs at 2300 (where we started the pull) and 400 ft-lbs at 3200 on my 542hp run with a crappy tune- yes, a maggie will hit that sooner, but if you think you can tell the difference between 375 ft-lbs and 400 ft lbs in 1st and 2nd gear, then I have some things here to sell you :). Yes, the torque does come on a bit stronger with a Maggie and a bit later with a Procharger, but you cannot tell in the lower gears and if you floor it at 2000 in the upper gears, then you should learn to downshift. Besides, when you do a run- how often is the car below even 5k? I have driven Maggie cars and am glad I went procharger- the bottom end torque isn't all that much different like others claim- they need to drive a procharger car also for comparison, not just say "look at that curve"- SOTP is very comparible down low with a monster pull up top :). The Procharger keeps making more power, putting you in the seat harder the more it revs. All of my dyno runs, the torque is much more instant than the other guys would say it is and it keep CLIMBING the whole pull.

Don't get me wrong, the Maggie is a very nice setup also and I was going to buy one because I didn't think I'd do much more with my car. Looking back, I'm really glad I didn't since I did not stop at just "bolt it on and go" :).

As for price, I would just say call around some of the vendors. I paid more through one than I have since heard others sell them for (and it was a favor to me at that price they said :( ). They will be in the upper 4's, low 5's for the P1 full kit though from what I have seen.
Joe
 

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I've also always thought that about the more torque down low comments. With the limited contact patch we can put on the rear of these cars, it seems like the extra torque down low will be lost anyway. Of course it could be me just justifying my choice to go with a procharger.
 

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Trust me- unless you don't know how to downshift- it is a minimal difference at best with a much harder top end charge. I was unsure of that until I drove a friends magnacharged car, now I am really glad I got the procharger. Don't get me wrong, the car was still plenty fast for a DD, but if you drive them back to back, you'll see what I mean- the procharger just puts you in the seat harder and harder as it revs. I do recomment moving the filter out of the bay if you don't mind cutting a hole, Alky and omega thermistor base on my experience so far, the three together woke the thing up like you wouldn't believe!!! If you don't want to cut the car and run the filter outside, I would at least do a small alky shot and get a good dyno tune.. Any FI car can benefit from a cooler air charge, it isn't just a procharger thing :).

I've said it before- if anybody is in driving distance from Milford, PA or Middletown, NY, I would be happy to take you for a ride and maybe even let you drive if you seem competent to give you a feel for how it runs before purchasing anything.
Joe
 

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RSR679 said:
I've also always thought that about the more torque down low comments. With the limited contact patch we can put on the rear of these cars, it seems like the extra torque down low will be lost anyway. Of course it could be me just justifying my choice to go with a procharger.
Heh- pretty much any tire and any FI combo will just spin when you floor it, so it will feel fast no matter what :).
Joe
 

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06 m6
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kwiktsi said:
Trust me- unless you don't know how to downshift- it is a minimal difference at best with a much harder top end charge. I was unsure of that until I drove a friends magnacharged car, now I am really glad I got the procharger. Don't get me wrong, the car was still plenty fast for a DD, but if you drive them back to back, you'll see what I mean- the procharger just puts you in the seat harder and harder as it revs. I do recomment moving the filter out of the bay if you don't mind cutting a hole, Alky and omega thermistor base on my experience so far, the three together woke the thing up like you wouldn't believe!!! If you don't want to cut the car and run the filter outside, I would at least do a small alky shot and get a good dyno tune.. Any FI car can benefit from a cooler air charge, it isn't just a procharger thing :).

I've said it before- if anybody is in driving distance from Milford, PA or Middletown, NY, I would be happy to take you for a ride and maybe even let you drive if you seem competent to give you a feel for how it runs before purchasing anything.
Joe
cool, thought that you lived in NY, I was raised in washingtonville then up to buffalo now in chicago. tried to PM you ,your full
 

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cleared now :). I got your email also. I gotta run out now, I'll email you later.
Joe
 

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I really can't tell the rpm difference in when a P-1SC comes in compared to a D-1SC. They both seem the same to me. To make 7 to 8 psi of boost with the P-1SC, a smaller pulley will need to be installed when compared to the D-1SC at the same boost level. This means the P-1SC has to be spun faster, which will create slightly more heat. For the very small price difference between the two head units, I really recommend going with the D-1SC, unless you live in Ca and need the 50 state certified P-1SC. The D-1SC cannot be purchased with a supplied tune from ATI, which is why it is not 50 state certified.
Keep in mind also, the D-1SC requires the purchase of a new harmonic balancer, which is the Fluidampr #740102. This balancer goes for $375.00. It gets pinned to the crank, and the blower pulley bolts to it.

Hopefully this helps. Bob
 

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Yeah, yeah- tell me this NOW :). My gut said to get the D1, Procharger said to get the P1, oh well- still putting over 600 whp down with a P1, so I can't bitch too much :D.
Joe
 

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kwiktsi said:
Trust me- unless you don't know how to downshift- it is a minimal difference at best with a much harder top end charge.
I disagree with that, you either have to keep it wrapped up around 3k or be paying attention, if you lope around in 6th like I do you'll get caught napping.
 

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sent you a pm on your setup

kwiktsi said:
Heh- pretty much any tire and any FI combo will just spin when you floor it, so it will feel fast no matter what :).
Joe
 

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pulse_04 said:
I disagree with that, you either have to keep it wrapped up around 3k or be paying attention, if you lope around in 6th like I do you'll get caught napping.
I don't think I ever get caught napping- I always downshift. I would never race someone from a 6th gear roll on (unless it started at 160ish :))!! NA, boosted, big block, small black, 4 cylinder, etc- I NEVER jump on a car at a low RPM- no matter what your setup, there is always more acceleration to be had by downshifting. If that wasn't true, the A4 maggie guys would be better off tuning the downshift out of the trans and let the "maggie torque" make up for it :). When I am driving "spiritedly", I never shift below 3500 anyway- FI or not, it's no fun lugging a car around :). Your reply just enforced what you quoted- you need to learn to downshift :).
Joe
 

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wow, lots of smilies lol. Just trying to let you know I'm not ripping on you, just conversing.
Joe
 

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kwiktsi said:
I don't think I ever get caught napping- I always downshift. I would never race someone from a 6th gear roll on (unless it started at 160ish !! NA, boosted, big block, small black, 4 cylinder, etc- I NEVER jump on a car at a low RPM- no matter what your setup, there is always more acceleration to be had by downshifting. If that wasn't true, the A4 maggie guys would be better off tuning the downshift out of the trans and let the "maggie torque" make up for it . When I am driving "spiritedly", I never shift below 3500 anyway- FI or not, it's no fun lugging a car around . Your reply just enforced what you quoted- you need to learn to downshift .
Joe
so you :) drive :) around in 4th :) gear on :) the freeway :) in case someone :) tries to :) cut :) you :) off?
 
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