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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone with wheel hop used the Anti-wheel hop axles and noticed a reduction of wheel hop with just that change?
 

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My other car has wings
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That's a great question that I too would love to have an answer for. I have what I consider a low mileage 2006 with bushings that appear to be like new, at least what I can see of them. But I've got some serious wheel hop that I would like to try to fix with axles alone. Maybe I'm dreaming.........
 

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That’s why they are called what they are called; they work.
 

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I have the anti-wheel hop axles and it did reduce the wheel hop but it is still there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That’s why they are called what they are called; they work.
So the theory is different diameter axles twist and unload at a different rate thus eliminating the cause of wheel hop. With that in mind I have 1000 horse rated DSS axles currently which are 1 1/8" diameter. I'm considering getting one of their 1400 horse rated axles which are 1 3/8" diameter to put on my passenger side if it would help with wheel hop.

I already have king springs w/bags, koni shocks, whiteline diff insert bushing, and whiteline sway bar yet I still get wheel hop in certain situations. I thought maybe axles would finish it off completely. Just thought I'd ask for real world results since not every product works as well as the manufacturer claims.
 

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That’s why they are called what they are called; they work.
So the theory is different diameter axles twist and unload at a different rate thus eliminating the cause of wheel hop. With that in mind I have 1000 horse rated DSS axles currently which are 1 1/8" diameter. I'm considering getting one of their 1400 horse rated axles which are 1 3/8" diameter to put on my passenger side if it would help with wheel hop.

I already have king springs w/bags, koni shocks, whiteline diff insert bushing, and whiteline sway bar yet I still get wheel hop in certain situations. I thought maybe axles would finish it off completely. Just thought I'd ask for real world results since not every product works as well as the manufacturer claims.
I did it opposite of you. Axles were my first attempt and it helped but was still awful. I then did nearly the same mods back there as you over time and it very rarely hops and I drive aggressively at times with the 3.91s it is a lot of fun. Give the axles a shot it may be enough.
 

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Is that FWD?
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That's a great question that I too would love to have an answer for. I have what I consider a low mileage 2006 with bushings that appear to be like new, at least what I can see of them. But I've got some serious wheel hop that I would like to try to fix with axles alone. Maybe I'm dreaming.........
What do you consider low mileage? My 2004 has 27,500 miles on it. All bushings were dry rotted and hard as a rock all over car. I bought the car new in 2004, never driven in snow or rain and still bushings were all broken down. I have installed Gforce 850HP Axles and Inner stubs and replaced all rear bushings with polyurethane ones, including rear diff insert. This stopped the wheel hop for me.

I installed one piece DSS carbon fiber drive shaft, axles and inner stubs first before the bushings and yes this seems to almost completely stop the wheel hop. I also installed Lovells 350mm rear springs and koni adjustable shocks in rear at same time I did the bushings. Rear sagging springs may contribute to wheel hop as well.

Here are some before and after shots.




 

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Kollar Racing Products
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Wheelhop varies from car to car dependent on power and the driver. Manual transmission cars suffer more then automatics. Wheelhop should be addressed in this order as follows:
(1) Firmer Springs such as Lovells 350s or 370s...do the shocks while you are in there
(2) Poly Subframe Bushings W92350 or Pedders EP1145
(3) Harrop Cover is preferable to diff insert but the Whiteline W92616 or Pedders EP1157 insert does help.
(4) Drag Bags...play with the air pressures...What you run on the street will be different then the track.
(5) DSS anti-wheelhop axels
The above WORKS well into high 9s with good tires. PM me if I can help
 

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GR-RRR!
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Wheelhop varies from car to car dependent on power and the driver. Manual transmission cars suffer more then automatics. Wheelhop should be addressed in this order as follows:
(1) Firmer Springs such as Lovells 350s or 370s...do the shocks while you are in there
(2) Poly Subframe Bushings W92350 or Pedders EP1145
(3) Harrop Cover is preferable to diff insert but the Whiteline W92616 or Pedders EP1157 insert does help.
(4) Drag Bags...play with the air pressures...What you run on the street will be different then the track.
(5) DSS anti-wheelhop axels
The above WORKS well into high 9s with good tires. PM me if I can help
I've only done 1-3 above and in that order. I very rarely experience any wheel hop and when it does show up it is on a crappy road and is pretty mild. When I hit the drag strip for the first time last Summer I didn't feel any wheel hop on the track all day. All this on street tires. In my version of #3 I did the insert first then the Harrop cover. The Harrop WAS an improvement all around (and just looks cool).
 

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Torrid 06 M6
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My GTO had wheel hop at the strip on all stock suspension and stock power with drag tires (six speed manual). I added a single Level I anti-hop axle from GForce and it stopped the hop. I then had a lot of squat so the rear tires would actually bottom out a little. Drag bags fixed that. However, the otherwise stock suspension would still squat so I recently had all the rear suspension bushings changed and added the GForce Afco coilover kit.
 

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I had wheel hop so bad that the windshield wipers would come on. This was on a launch at the track with drag radials. I had a Harrop diff cover, Pedders springs, shock, and drag bags. I installed the anti-wheel hop axles and the hop is 95% gone. Every once in a while on the street I will get just a little hop if the conditions are exactly right. X amount of throttle, temp of the road and tires, etc. Nothing that I can't live with.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had wheel hop so bad that the windshield wipers would come on. This was on a launch at the track with drag radials. I had a Harrop diff cover, Pedders springs, shock, and drag bags. I installed the anti-wheel hop axles and the hop is 95% gone. Every once in a while on the street I will get just a little hop if the conditions are exactly right. X amount of throttle, temp of the road and tires, etc. Nothing that I can't live with.
Kind of where I'm at right now is with the right amount of tire spin at the right road temp it will hop, but most of the time it doesn't. At the track one time when I didn't bring the rpm's up fast enough during the burnout the rear went to the right and it hopped a bit during the burnout. That was very odd and if I bring the rpm's up high fast it stays straight and doesn't hop.

I'm adding power and plan to continue to do so. I'd like to get rid of hop completely that is why I considered the axles.

My question for Duckman would be since different diameter axles are the key to the anti-hop axle theory and since I already have 1000 horse rated driveshaft shop axles which are 1 1/8" diameter...would adding a single 1400 horse rated DSS axle which is 1 3/8" diameter to one side serve the same purpose here?
 

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Kollar Racing Products
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It should help...provided the balance of the list has been addressed. Not all cars require the axels. My mechanic's GTO runs Lovells springs with bags...KYBs...Whiteline subframe bushings...harrop cover...RoadSafe Quad adjusters (long discontinued) with toe links (against my recommendation) with DSS CF Shaft, Wave Trac, Stubs and 1400HP (Not antiwheelhop) axels. I dont remember what the stall is. This car has multiple tunes...one for daily driving and one drag racing NA and one for 2 steps of NOS. This car bangs low 10s...high 9s at the strip....and can be driven back and forth to work each day.....with Zero wheelhop. On Slicks she squats...a little wheel spin and away she goes...
 

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.... with toe links (against my recommendation) ...
Why is that? I have G-Force adjustable toe links on my car, not sure if they help or hurt with wheel hop but I didn't really have any before or after them.
 

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Kollar Racing Products
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I am not an Engineer. Allegedly if you run eccentrics on the INSIDE (diff side) of the rear control arm you risk binding the diff. The original IRS Commodore had NO toe links. There was no adjustment for toe or camber. The aftermarket developed eccentrics to address this issue. Did the existence of the toe links contribute to blowing up the stock and eaton diffs? I cant be sure. The Wavetrac is still alive and well after 2 years
 

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I have everything done but the subframe bushings and the axles. I recently broke a CV due to wheel hop so I ordered them from Duckman, Andy Kollar today. Hopefully that solves my wheel hop issues before I cam it this summer. It can't even handle bolt ons and a stall now.
 

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I have done everything except replace the inner and outer control arm bushings and have BAD wheel hop any time I bang second gear! My knees have been so bad that the last year I haven't driven it or worked on it much but those were replaced last week so that is going to change soon. My question is does it matter which side the larger axel goes on? AS I'll go after the bushings soon.
 

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Wheel hop isn't just from axle wrap, it's from wheel geometry changes.

Semitrailing arm suspensions vary both camber and toe with travel. With acceleration, the rear squats, and changes both toe and camber. This can cause a loss of traction. When the suspension unloads during wheel spin, traction can be regained since camber and toe now return to a point that allows the tire to grip. When the tires grip, the suspension loads up, and the process begins again.

GTO's have relatively soft spring rates in the rear, as well as soft dampening, which allow for greater rates of suspension travel, exacerbating the situation.

So, the treatment is anti-squat and greater control. Adjustable dampers and higher rate springs should help. Poly bushings help. Any thing that limits movement in the rear helps. Toe links help, of course, since that forces the control arms to maintain toe, although causes the inner control arm bushing to flex more. Anti-hop axles help. Stickier tires help.
 

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I installed the GForce anti wheel hop axles a few years ago but it didn't help a bit. I do have Pedders aftermarket rear suspension kit and that might have something to do with it. So far, nothing I've tried ha helped. Considering going to the GForce rear coil over kit but I'm looking in the forum for recommendations from those who have installed it.
 

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Maybe I have a unicorn. I have never experienced wheel hop. The only thing suspension wise done to mine is drag bags. I never air them up either. I wonder if them being there has something to do with it? And yea, I can spin the tires. Depending on tires I have, I can spin them to 90mph. So I really wonder what’s different about mine?

Tires I’ve had:
Nitto 555r
Nitto nt05r
Nankang something

Stock axles too.
 
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