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I'll be honest, the thing that caught my eye about these wires is that they are orange which would match my car and some of the body-color details I've done under the hood. Right now I have headers on my LS2 and I'm still running the stock coils and plug wires. They work just fine. I'd only want to swap to the Dragon Fire wires to more fully color coordinate if they won't be of lesser quality and performance than 14 year old OEM wires. I've used various brands of plug wires over the years, some I'd use again in a heartbeat and others I would not. I just have no experience with this brand. They are made by AIP.
 

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Never heard of them at all. Those things are cheaper than the carquest brand wires I had to purchase in a bind years ago. That said, I never had one issue with those cheap wires.

I ditched them a few years ago in favor of some MSD's as I didn't feel like reusing cheap wires when I put Kooks on my 04.
 

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All plug wires are not created equal, a 2 year old set pulled from my car metered 800 ohm, the new set metered 30, less resistance/more power to the plugs. I can find the name for you, @70 bucks as I recall, not cheap but there are products out there that are just stupid money. It is hard to find stats like that on wires, I don't recall how I was turned on to these but I know I will go back to them time after time. Unless a coil is failing and/or you are making big time power after market units are money down the drain, there will not be more than a coupla horse gain if any at all. Of course when you pop the hood with a crowd around they could be good for 50, 75 even 100 or more, I mean it's your story, make it as big as you want!
 

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I'm going to give them a try. If they don't work well or don't last, it will be easy enough to tell. I have three sets of stockers lying around so I'll always have replacements readily at hand.
 

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Still loving my Ceramic Accel wires that put on when my JBA's burned through a couple taylor wires. They aren't pretty colors but they do seem bulletproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Honestly, there is not a lot of rocket science to plug wires. I know cheap ones can fail and wear out. Well, expensive ones can too. On my Chevelle, I ran the original spark plug wires for over 40 years. They always did the job just fine. The only reason I ever replaced them is I wanted a set that simply looked better (I used to do a lot of car shows). The reproductions were made by the same OEM company (Packard wire) and they worked well too. 15 years later they are still on the car looking good and working just fine. As I said in my first post, my initial motivation to try these wires is the color, silly as that may sound. I just hope they don't work poorly, but it is a small gamble for the price and Summit's liberal return policy. If they stink, back they go.
 

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I ran a set of Taylor wires on my '87 Camaro with coated headers for about 15 years. Never had a problem with them. On my GTO, I just installed Taylor Spiro-Pro wires (76045) and they fit great with the shorter boots. Not bad for $60. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The plug wires arrived. The packaging is impressive and the wires themselves look very well made and robust. The packaging and product look WAY beyond the price paid. Hope the performance is good as well.

One frustrating thing though, they included a small instruction sheet stating that if your engine uses factory style head shields that they should be reused. But the rub is, there is NO WAY these plug ends would fit in the factory plug shields. And I've never seen a wire set from them that would have the same plug end configuration as the OEMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here are a few photos showing the excellent packaging, presentation and product appearance. You can also see that the plug end terminals are nothing like OEM.
500599
500600
500601
 

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Short plug ends like the Taylor wires I bought. Yeah, no bueno on the metal shields. These are such much easier to install and pull off than the stock style wires.
 

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Well, given the wire orientation and the new header tube routing there will be next to no worries about wires touching header tubes. And the headers are ceramic coated so won't be as hot as uncoated or original manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, bump in the road. They are noticeably longer than stock and as such it is hard to orient them so they don't touch the header tubes. I'll play more another day when I have more time, but they may have to go back.
 

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Grab some MSD’s. They fit perfectly with headers.
 

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I'll go back to stock if these don't work.

Anyway, I was out in the garage mucking around and installed the valve cover spacers. This helps. That little bit extra amount of distance allows the too-long nature of the wires to lay out a bit better. I could get them on in a decent orientation to not kink the wires and to keep them off the headers. The connectors inside the coil boots are a little loosey-goosey inside the boot, but once you orient things properly they plug right in nice and snug. Once I get this mess buttoned up I'll give them a try.
 

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FWIW, this is what they look like on the engine. They seem to work just fine, no misfires recorded at least.
500857
 

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Throw those heat shields as far as you possibly can, I have run without them on manifolds and headers not only on these cars but on small and big block Chevys for a very long time, if they survive #6 on a SBC they can survive anything. They tell you to use them cause they know that you have or are about to chit can them therefore voiding the warranty. You can turn the boots in opposite directions to form an S in the cable. If you seriously want to judge the worth of your wires hit them with an ohm meter; the 3 year old delcos I pulled ohmed at 800+, The Taylor's I use meter at 28-30, I pulled one the other day, still meter that after 3 years. The higher the resistance the harder it is to push electricity through, a good set will make to motor smoother and are worth a coupla horses. The better suppliers publish their resistance values.
 
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