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New PB MPH - 127.54
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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not exactly sure when it happened, but it definately feels like my rotors are warped. There is a certain spot in the pedal, when braking, that makes the car vibrate. Its not all that bad, but bad enough to notice and be real inconvenient.

I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck taking their car back to the dealer for this. I've got 13K on the car, so its still definately under warranty.

Thanks.
 

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New PB MPH - 127.54
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Discussion Starter #3
Cyclone Chris said:
I have the same problem... gonna take it to the dealer during my next oil change and let them know.
Do you plan on saying "I think my rotors are warped."

Or just tell them there is an extreme vibration under certain braking pressure. I was always told not to lead a mechanic, let them find the problem themselves.
 

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gm WILL NOT ALLOW US TO REPLACE ROTORS FOR WARPAGE. MACHINING IS REQUIRED. THERE HAVE BEEN SOME ISSUES WITH CORROSION AND DIRT CREATING RUNOUT, AS WELL AS INAPPROPRIATE WHEEL NUT TORQUE. IF YOUR DEALER MACHINES THEM, AND THEY ARE A GMC DEALER, THEY WILL HAVE A ON THE CAR LATHE, WHICH i WOULD RECOMMEND.


REMOVING BRAKE ROTOR MATERIAL IS WARRANTY. BUT BE ADVISED THE THINNER THE ROTOR, THE MORE PRONE A ROTOR WILL BE TO EXCESS RUNOUT, ESPECIALLY DURING SPIRITED DRIVING

MIKE
DMS
 

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smurfin' fly-by...
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6.0gto_noob said:
Do you plan on saying "I think my rotors are warped."

Or just tell them there is an extreme vibration under certain braking pressure. I was always told not to lead a mechanic, let them find the problem themselves.
I dunno about that, my dealership welcomes my troubleshooting and detailed information as it makes the job quicker for them and they can get to work on it right away.

I usually just tell them "My rotors feel like they are warped, and explain when/where/how it occured." Then I'm not there all day waiting on them to try everything in the book because of a "vibration".
 

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Yeah - I have had my rotors turned twice now, once at 12,000 and again at 29,000 even though they have been vibrating since about 23000 miles. The rotors were turned under warranty both times but this most recent brake job cost 280 bucks for front pads and install. (214 dollar brake pads, which i think is outrageous).
 

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If you have warped rotors to the point where you can feel the vibration in the pedal it's time to upgrade or get new ones. The rotors warp due to localized heat that is not dispersed correctly, the rotor has a memory of the warp(from localized hardening) and even after turning will warp again when brought up to temp.
 

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I was hoping Brembo made some replacement rotors for us, but could not find any...I have had good luck with taking Brembo replacement rotors and slotting them for street use.

Going to be doing an Alcon brake kit for my buddies '04 pretty soon, he auto-x's and will put them to the test.
 

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not a pontiac its a HOLDEN !!
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wear items are usually only covered 1 year 12,000 miles , lately alot more dealer just ignore the wear items and tell you that you gotta pay
 

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Good post with the StopTech link!

Don't forget about the hubs and lug nut torque. This can create a vibration that is almost identical to 'warped' rotors by distorting the wheel hub which distorts the rotor. It can be corrected by rotating the front wheels with a stage torque lug nut assembly process in a triangular pattern.
 

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New PB MPH - 127.54
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Discussion Starter #15
Good read on the link.

So...anyone have any luck with dealers replacing rotors with "uneven brake pad deposits" on them? lol.
 

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I have 18k miles on my GTO and I bought it with 16k miles after my first test drive I told them it had a shimmy while braking. After I bought the car I reminded them that this still needed to be fixed. They told me they would consider turning the rotors for me, I laughed and told them that I would take new and not turned rotors, service manager looked at me and said ok 3 days later I got the call saying the new rotors were in and I could drop the car off anytime it was good for me.

J Rat
 

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radkon said:
"Warpage" is usually uneven pad deposits on the rotor, unless you catch it VERY early the only way to correct it is to resurface or replace the rotor. There is a good article on it here:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
I'm glad someone said this. Warping is just about non-existant. Having a high spot from the deposits is what happens. What people need to avoid is doing a bunch of heavy braking, heating up the rotors and pads and then bring the car to a stop and holding the pads against the rotors. When you come to a stop, release the brakes if you can (park or emergency brake) until the rotors and pads have come down to a more normal temp.
 

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terryk said:
I'm glad someone said this. Warping is just about non-existant. Having a high spot from the deposits is what happens. What people need to avoid is doing a bunch of heavy braking, heating up the rotors and pads and then bring the car to a stop and holding the pads against the rotors. When you come to a stop, release the brakes if you can (park or emergency brake) until the rotors and pads have come down to a more normal temp.
It is Deja Vu all over again!
 

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On a race 2-piece hatted brake rotor I do not see warp...and like you are saying the deposits are what cause the pulsation. But on a 1-piece cast rotor(stock style) I can easily measure runout/warp, when you dial-indicated the hub/cast hat to 0, and can read .008" through the rotation, then turn to rotor and watch the cut being made on opposite sides of the rotor like a wobbling tire - that is warp and not deposits.
 
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