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Dick Ross
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7,196 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to design a box to hold some cartridges in fusion 360 but I suck. The plan was to design the box on fusion 360, send the file to my friend, then he was going to put it in a slicer, and 3D print it. But, I suck ass at fusion apparently and can't even design a simple box with a removable lid... would anyone here that knows fusion be willing to help make a box? It's a really simple design, I'm just retarded with CAD.
 

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DW can't take a J... or a D
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2,283 Posts
Daaaaaaaamn.

I play around with Fusion, but it takes me forever and a day to do anything.



Rich, check out TinkerCAD too. For basic ass stuff like a box to hold bullets, its pretty easy.
 

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HGH Optimist
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In on 1. Just to see LS2-GTO post some more cool shit.
 

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Have Bar, Will Travel
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9,679 Posts
I was going to suggest something like Draftsight which has a free trial and you can draft it in 2D first so it's a plain line drawing - then make it 3d with relative ease. In the case of a box simple extrusion commands will do most of it. It's like autocad and solidworks. In fact made by solid works or rather Dassault Systèmes .

Point is it's easier to start with than fusion 360 for most people. Same thing with programs like solid works and CATIA.

Also Draftsight has a few open source sub parts to it so it reads in and outputs nearly anyformat use in industry. SO when it comes to making your model file for the plastic printer - it will have that required file format available. Not all systems do this. We often use AutoCAD to draft out stuff - and then use Draftsight to convert it for another company to use. We also use Solidworks but only a few use it.

Anyway - good luck - what are your dimensions and etc and what is the required file format?
 

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Have Bar, Will Travel
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9,679 Posts
I'm going to end up buying a 3D printer. I know a few people that have them. It would be nice if someplace was setup with say a few of the high quality, production style machines and had a web service where you could send them your file and requirements and they quoted a price - buy - make - ship dat shiz. and you could get a quality piece at reasonable prices provided you do the design work.

I know a few machine shops used to do that with 3 and 4 axis CNC machines.
 

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Registered
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181 Posts
I'm going to end up buying a 3D printer. I know a few people that have them. It would be nice if someplace was setup with say a few of the high quality, production style machines and had a web service where you could send them your file and requirements and they quoted a price - buy - make - ship dat shiz. and you could get a quality piece at reasonable prices provided you do the design work.

I know a few machine shops used to do that with 3 and 4 axis CNC machines.
There are multiple places online that do just that, cost varies by part size, material, and production time.
As far as getting your own printer, I've had a few of them in recent years but I've been pretty happy with Creality brand printers. I use an Ender 5 Pro but the Ender 3s are a good bit cheaper and still work pretty well. As far as CAD software, Solidworks and Fusion 360 are both solid options to use and are free to download for personal use.
 

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Dick Ross
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7,196 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sorry I haven't posted in a bit. I will take a screenshot of my model and post it in a few.
 

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Dick Ross
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7,196 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
501119
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501121


I figured it out! Got rid of Fusion and downloaded Design Spark Mechanic. If anyone is into 3d printing or tinkering on CAD, I highly recommend it. It is ridiculous how easy it is to use compared to Fusion and other programs. This is my first time really going this in depth with CAD. Took quite a bit of time to do the box, but it turned out great. Hopefully my printer gets delivered on Tuesday like it's supposed to so I can start printing! According to Cura, this is going to be close to 40 hours of printing ?
 

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DW can't take a J... or a D
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2,283 Posts
Nice job on the design, lot of complicated shapes in there for a novice. I tried out Design Spark Mechanic, felt like it had the same learning curve as Fusion.

Which printer did you end up getting?
 

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DW can't take a J... or a D
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2,283 Posts
Also, just one comment on the lid. I would get rid of the raised edge surrounding the text '12 gauge from hell' - that will be very difficult to print, will require a lot of support which will ruin the top surface. If you just make it flat, you can still have the embossed text and will have a nice smooth surface.

Similar suggestion for the bottom. If you make the bottom flat, you can print it standing straight up without any supports. Otherwise if you want those ridges in the bottom, you can print it upside down but may be a little rough at the bottom of the tube where the case sits - not like you'd really see it, but unless you get your bridging dialed in nicely it wont be perfectly flat. Not sure what kind of tolerance you built into it.
 

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Dick Ross
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7,196 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Also, just one comment on the lid. I would get rid of the raised edge surrounding the text '12 gauge from hell' - that will be very difficult to print, will require a lot of support which will ruin the top surface. If you just make it flat, you can still have the embossed text and will have a nice smooth surface.

Similar suggestion for the bottom. If you make the bottom flat, you can print it standing straight up without any supports. Otherwise if you want those ridges in the bottom, you can print it upside down but may be a little rough at the bottom of the tube where the case sits - not like you'd really see it, but unless you get your bridging dialed in nicely it wont be perfectly flat. Not sure what kind of tolerance you built into it.
I'm printing the bottom of the box in the orientation pictured. There are supports on the bottom, and on the overhang for the lid to snap. That's the way cura recommends to do it, and that seem like the best option.

For the top there is no way around it, it's going to need supports unless I do it face down, but even then it will need a little bit of supports. I'd have to lose the text completely to print that way, as well as the lip. I would really like to keep the text. I'm using PETG too, so IDK how the easily it will be to remove the supports... I'm thinking about printing it in the same orientation. It will have a shit ton of support material, but it will all be in the underside where it won't be seen.

As for the printer, I'm using an ender 5 pro. I downloaded someone's PETG profile and gave it a few tweaks and am getting pretty decent results. I had a really bad clog originally that caused my prints to look and feel like foam, but I got that fixed. I designed this to test bridging and overhangs and I gotta say it looks pretty decent and feels solid (I did use 70% infil though)This was 2mm layer height moving at 45 mm/s

20200402_083454.jpg


You can see the previous attempt with serious problems extruding due to the clog. There is a little bit of drooping and stringing here and there on the inside of the overhangs, but I think it's because I printed it at 260°

I've got my box printing at 55 mm/s bed temp is 70° and nozle tip is 253°C looks like it'll come out good

501272


I originally had the temp set to 260° but got stringing as you can see, I dialed it back and the stringing stopped. This PETG is pretty touchy stuff.
 

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DW can't take a J... or a D
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2,283 Posts
As long as you don't mind digging out the huge amount of supports, lol. I tried PETG once a few years ago, quickly gave up on it. Looks like you got it dialed in pretty well.

Generally, embossed text on a face will print just fine (especially at that font size) just in case you run into trouble with all the support needed if you print the top in the orientation shown. In Cura, if you enable experimental you can enable tree supports - very helpful for complex shapes with lots of overhang, but probably not particularly helpful with this model.
 
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