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Owns 3 GTO's
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Discussion Starter #1
I have contiplated many differant power choices. From heads and cam, to Maggie or Pro Charger, now to twin turbos. Of the two kits out there. I preferr the APS one. I like the conceled part of the kit. You really have no idea what is there till you hear the turbos spool.

Anyway, I want to know who has one installed, and what there thoughts on the kit are. Whatever I can know, I want to know.

Power increase, drivability, should I install a cam? Would have to sel my Koks though.

Thanks all.
 

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Loboost is your man, he is the only person with the kit installed (that is now no longer in production). They are coming out with a new genII kit in early 2007. Do a search for his impressions (they are all good). It is a quality kit. Drivability on a turbo car is just like stock if you have the stock cam (until you hit boost). Then the tq hits like a big block.

You don't need a cam, unless you want to go for really big power (which is not really advised on stock pistons, although possible if you like to live on the edge). I would save the money and use it on heads (bigger chamber heads to lower compression is typically the best bang for the buck on turbo a ls1).

Stronger valve springs, upgraded fuel system (injectors, pump....), and a good tune are the only must have upgrades on the motor side.

You definitely can't use your LTs (so go ahead and sell them if you plan on going with a Turbo).
 

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Black Devil said:
I have contiplated many differant power choices. From heads and cam, to Maggie or Pro Charger, now to twin turbos. Of the two kits out there. I preferr the APS one. I like the conceled part of the kit. You really have no idea what is there till you hear the turbos spool.

Anyway, I want to know who has one installed, and what there thoughts on the kit are. Whatever I can know, I want to know.

Power increase, drivability, should I install a cam? Would have to sel my Koks though.

Thanks all.


Thanks for the kind words LSX sorry about twisting your post the other day I was just a bit frustrated and also tired of all the BS. Thanks again and my apologies.

Black Devil I am with you in the stealth factor about having turbos down low and hidden. In all reallity I can have my hood open at a gathering and unless someone is really looking and knows turbos I can pretty much pass my car off as having a cold air intake.

Devil my car has had the kit on for approx 5 months now I have been extremely busy at my job plus with the desert heat and lack of a fuel system, I have had to live with around 530rwhp and 500 ftlb at the wheels. I have had zero issues with the kit other than trying to get fuel to the engine to support my long term goals. Last weekend I made 608rwhp and 664rwtq at 12.5 psi and we only ran it up to 5000rpm due to lack of fuel injectors 95% duty cycle.

I believe pretty much all of the above choices you mentioned are good choices and any of them will put a smile on your face. They are all capable of supporting at least 500rwhp some have even more leg room to grow. So basically it comes down to what your own goals and expectations are be honest with yourself and choose the kit that will meet your requirements.

Dont forget most of these kits will require some sort of supporting driveline mods as well a strong clutch at the least. Hope this helps!!

Les
 

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Owns 3 GTO's
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Discussion Starter #4
My plans. Building a forged stock cube bottom end. Adding a good cam, and a set of AFR 205's, with a FAST 78mm throttle body, and intake. Already have 3.91's comming, and getting ready for BMR subs. The axles will be next year. Clutch, and flywheel will be going in when the new motor goes in. One piece driveshaft too. I am sure I will have other things that i did not list. Anything pushing well over 500hp at the wheels will need a bit of streangth behind it.

Thanks Les for taking the time to respond.
 

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Black Devil said:
My plans. Building a forged stock cube bottom end. Adding a good cam, and a set of AFR 205's, with a FAST 78mm throttle body, and intake. Already have 3.91's comming, and getting ready for BMR subs. The axles will be next year. Clutch, and flywheel will be going in when the new motor goes in. One piece driveshaft too. I am sure I will have other things that i did not list. Anything pushing well over 500hp at the wheels will need a bit of streangth behind it.

Thanks Les for taking the time to respond.
Trust me you wont need the 3.91 with turbos or forced induction!! everything will be ok, but like TT-FRC said the intake wont make much of difference under boost.

Les
 

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Owns 3 GTO's
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Discussion Starter #7
I've already got the FAST parts. Only the TB is installed at this time. I do understand that with FI, you get volume over path of flow.

I am keeping my stock rear with the 3.46's. I guess I could sell the diff with the 3.91's later.
 

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AFR 225's are more suited to F/I applications than 205's. Taller gears might actually be a disadvantage in this application. Put the money in a full return fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Running a fuel return? I know stock fuel system does not have a return. Requires the 8.1l fuel bucket?

I would also like to know things like warentee, how they would do on long trips. I have taken rides well over 5 hours of driving. Can this kit take drives like that? What would a drive like that do to the engine?
 

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The power available with this kit combined with H/C would exceed what a single Walbro 255 can output. A full return system with boost referenced regulator is far easier to tune than a single ended system. Long trips shouldn't be any problem. Even with F/I, you're not in boost most of the time, unless you're making the trip at 160 MPH.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
mistermike said:
Long trips shouldn't be any problem. Even with F/I, you're not in boost most of the time, unless you're making the trip at 160 MPH.
:wall:

Have to say, I've got a heavy foot.
 

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Black Devil said:
:wall:

Have tp say, I've got a heavy foot.
Gonna go out of town next weekend on a road trip approx 650miles round trip will let you next week. I dont foresee any problems other than unseen Highway patrol vehicles! Car drives absolutley like a stock car out of boost as Mistermike pointed out.

Les

PS Mistermike I think you meant to say lower gears wont be suited for F/I not taller.
 

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Soo with that said when does boost kick in? I would figure you would be hitting mild boost running around on the street with lights, stop signs, and traffic..

I usually cruise at about 75-80 with the occasional sprint to 120+ (if I get frustrated with slow drivers in the left lane), I'd think I'd be dropping MPG like crazy if I had boost in my car..

I want boost so bad tho :(


PS>> Nice numbers.. I bet your car is amazingly fun and scary to drive..
 

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Loboost said:
PS Mistermike I think you meant to say lower gears wont be suited for F/I not taller.
It depends on where you're making the torque. My upcoming setup is going to have gobs of torque at 2000 RPM, making it difficult to launch. Lower gearing might benefit me (and improve highway mileage:rolleyes: ), but I'll probably stay at 346 and learn to launch it. Procharger/Vortech guys might prefer taller gears to play to the strength of those blowers at high RPM. Now you TT guys, I can't say. You can cook up almost any torque curve you like with the right boost management. :hail:
 

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mistermike said:
It depends on where you're making the torque. My upcoming setup is going to have gobs of torque at 2000 RPM, making it difficult to launch. Lower gearing might benefit me (and improve highway mileage:rolleyes: ), but I'll probably stay at 346 and learn to launch it. Procharger/Vortech guys might prefer taller gears to play to the strength of those blowers at high RPM. Now you TT guys, I can't say. You can cook up almost any torque curve you like with the right boost management. :hail:
Mike I think you have lower and taller backwords lower gears spin the engine faster at the same given speeds. Taller gears will spin the motor slower to take advantage of the increased torque in the lower rpms.

I think the math is what is what may be getting you confused, a 4.10 is lower than a 3.46. basically it is number of revolutions the driveshaft needs to spin to cause the rear wheel to make 1 revolution. Hope this helps clarify it.
 

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yEs I porblbay got teh tmgeirlonoy mxied up. A taller ratio would be nice with all that torque. I always thought taller meant higher ratio. Good thing I'm not in the gear business.
 

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mistermike said:
yEs I porblbay got teh tmgeirlonoy mxied up. A taller ratio would be nice with all that torque. I always thought taller meant higher ratio. Good thing I'm not in the gear business.
No problem Mike I think a lot of people get the math confused with the terminology.

Les
 
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