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Made friends with my lazy
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Discussion Starter #1
SO i am coming back from the Driving range during my very short visit home this weekend. I am loving life as I havent gotten to drive the goat much lately beinbg on the road and then WHAM... i go to shift from 2nd to 3rd, but 3rd is gone!!!

Now i am angry, and then i realize so is 1st 5th and Reverse....
Luckily it is my B&M and not the tranny but holy jebus man, i had to limp home in 2nd and 4th... I am haing the diff re-flushed and the actuator fixed and hopefully the shifter will be fixed too..

I took it apaart when i got home and it turns out I sheared the bottom bolt off of the shifter arm.. the stud is still in the base of the shifter but the head of the bolt came off, no wonder why i have been fighting to get it into Reverse..so i put a bandaid (hose clamp) on it and took it in this morning..better be done in time to take it to CAM this thursday...
 

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Administrator
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9,486 Posts
Sorry to hear that but hardly shocking given all the B&M horror stories on the forums. Best to put the stock shifter back in and order a GMM (or a Hurst, if you want to waiiiiiiiiiit).
 

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Premium Member
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13,113 Posts
That's a known problem. Time for some Grade 8 upgrades.
 

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Might wanna knock first...
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4,355 Posts
Been there, done that. Grade 8 bolts, nylocks, not a problem since.
 

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Made friends with my lazy
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543 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yea, i was going to wait until after i got tuned then swap my exhaust and do the new shifter at the same time... just crap timing... really excited to finally have this tune done but les just hope i can find another bolt to stick in there until i get a GMM....
 

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Might wanna knock first...
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4,355 Posts
Any hardware store will have what you need.
 

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Made friends with my lazy
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543 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
do you know off the top of your head the specs on the bolt? I drove my truck in but i will stop after work and see if they have it. My only other problem is the fact that they are loctite-ed and i have to go get an extractor bit to get the broken stub out...
 

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420 rwhp / 390 rwtq
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1,218 Posts
GTOMYGOD said:
do you know off the top of your head the specs on the bolt? I drove my truck in but i will stop after work and see if they have it. My only other problem is the fact that they are loctite-ed and i have to go get an extractor bit to get the broken stub out...
LOOK AT THIS LINK
 

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That thing got a Hemi?
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79 Posts
I must be the only one to not have had any trouble with my B&M, I had it on for about 15k miles and I only took it off just because I thought I was going to take it back to the dealership. Nothing ever came loose, rubbed, or for god sakes sheared off. I can't believe that happened!
Any speculation on why this would happen?
Seeing as I had no problems before, I was going to put the B&M back in since I don't feel like waiting until doomsday for Hurst to get their ass in gear, but I need to determine whether or not all these problems stemmed from installation or were strange occurences. Like I said I never could identify any of the problems I've read about with what I observed with my own car.

Maybe I just need to hear someone else with a B&M to say they havn't had any problems so I don't feel like I am missing something.
 

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Premium Member
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13,113 Posts
I never had any problems with the upgraded hardware.

I just don't like the feel, so I went GMM. The B&M is just sitting on a self now.
 

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Registered
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852 Posts
GMM seems to be the hands down best option for aftermarket shifters. Why anyone would still buy a B&M at this point must be due to not knowing the GMM exists.
 

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Former GTO Owner
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1,884 Posts
People are also having problems with that GMM shifter also. Sorry to hear about it man, remember its just a part and parts break sometimes. Hell, people even had problems with the stock shifter too on these cars.
 

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Don't drink the Kool-Aid...
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2,889 Posts
Fox Mulder said:
Sorry to hear that but hardly shocking given all the B&M horror stories on the forums. Best to put the stock shifter back in and order a GMM (or a Hurst, if you want to waiiiiiiiiiit).
Thought I read somewhere here that the Hurst is "offically" dead?
 

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Administrator
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9,486 Posts
Generally there are only problems with a GMM when it is not installed properly, such as Loctite not being used. When correctly installed using the right procedures and materials the GMM is fine out of the box. That is not usually the case with the B&M judging by what many people have reported.
 

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Havoc said:
Thought I read somewhere here that the Hurst is "offically" dead?
There's a recent post around somewhere that says otherwise. I'm not vouching for the accuracy of that information though, and as a happy GMM owner I've already made my choice.
 

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Made friends with my lazy
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543 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Any speculation on why this would happen?
Well in this case I think it may have been a combination of too many "spirited shifts" and just bad bolts with the original setup. But I dont have any copmplaints on how the shifts felt before it broke, just the whole scaring the hell out of me while driving and having no odd gears.. but who knows.. as long as I get the thing fixed by tomorrow so i can still make my appt for the tune this week i dont really care right now.
 

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Incognito
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1,433 Posts
Why hasn't anyone just welded all the pieces of the B&M together? It would seem to be the easiest solution. I believe it is all stainless, just TIG everything together. It would probably take 5 minutes, and why your at it you could cut an inch out of the handle.

The other thing that confuses me is how nobody can feel when the bottom bolt is just starting to come loose. When your in gear there shoud be ZERO front to back movement in the handle. If there is any play at all, the bolts are backing out. The bolts will shear from hard shifts only when they are loose.
 

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John Doe said:
Why hasn't anyone just welded all the pieces of the B&M together? It would seem to be the easiest solution. I believe it is all stainless, just TIG everything together. It would probably take 5 minutes, and why your at it you could cut an inch out of the handle.

The other thing that confuses me is how nobody can feel when the bottom bolt is just starting to come loose. When your in gear there shoud be ZERO front to back movement in the handle. If there is any play at all, the bolts are backing out. The bolts will shear from hard shifts only when they are loose.
First you can't weld the three pieces together, the black anodized piece in the middle is aluminum and the stick and shifter ball stick is stainless and those two metals can't be welded together due to dissimilar metal. Second I posted my fix for the problem and what I discovered was the problem to begin with. Check this link out I posted pictures of my fix and read post #19 I state what I found to be my problem and probably everyone elses. http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100358
 

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Shallow & Pedantic
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1,558 Posts
"Helloooo GTOMYGOD!"

Welcome to Step 10 of the B&M 12 Step Recovery Program.

You only have two more failures before you beat the addiction and get a shifter that'll sober you up for good. :gr_jest:
 
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