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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all. Recently I replaced my water pump due to a leak. I replaced it with the cheap duralast version. I ended up having to replace it twice due to a clearance issue when installing the first one due to the factory bolts being too long for the new water pump. The first time I changed out the pump, I ended up breaking the end off a bolt when it made contact with the back side of the pump. So I traded this pump for another and when I torque the 2nd bolt with a much shorter bolt than before(that only screwed in 75% of the total thread length) the threads broke. Turns out it had a helicoil installed. So I used the longer stock bolt which had enough clearance here and was able to torque it to the required 10lb using the last 25% remaining thread. No more stores nearby had another water pump at the moment so I had to settle for this.

After changing my water pump I have a pretty loud squealing noise coming from the engine bay. It doesn't exist at startup but starts a few min. Later and doesn't go away the rest of the day. I already changed my main belt which didn't fix anything. I've had this problem for a couple months at least so it's not going away on its own.
My best guess is that maybe the new water pump has a very tiny leak but my coolant temp. Is staying consistent so that might not be the case. The water pump has a lifetime warranty and I could replace it but I would rather not especially since it is a pita to remove my procharger stuff in order to get to it.

Anyone have any suggestions or tips? Is it possible it could be a bearing? I did forget to grease my tensioner bearing as my water pump failed at my gf's house and I didn't have all my stuff with me.
 

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I would have cleaned all the accessory pullies with brake cleaner, probably scuffed up the new water pump pulley with a scotch bright pad, and used a new belt.

Never heard of a factory replacement water pump needing different length bolts.

You don't need to grease the tensioner bearing. It's sealed. If it makes noise, replace it.

What gaskets did you use for the water pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would have cleaned all the accessory pullies with brake cleaner, probably scuffed up the new water pump pulley with a scotch bright pad, and used a new belt.

Never heard of a factory replacement water pump needing different length bolts.

You don't need to grease the tensioner bearing. It's sealed. If it makes noise, replace it.

What gaskets did you use for the water pump?
I used the gaskets that came with the new water pump.
waterpumpbolt.jpg
Looks like I still have a picture. This should help clear things up a bit. this was from the first water pump I tried to replace the original with. When I noticed the bolt was making contact I tried to unscrew it but the head broke off. So, I just exchanged it for another water pump and after mounting the 2nd water pump on the engine I noticed one of the threads were helicoiled and tmost of the helicoil broke when screwing in a much a shorter bolt that I luckily found laying around in my garage when I picked up some tools. The thread opposite of the one in the picture above does not have clearance issues with the stock bolt which is the one with the broken helicoil. Hence why I was able to use the original stock bolt to secure it using the last 25% of remaining thread.

I'm just a little flabbergasted on why it doesn't make noise on startup but it does a few min. later. It made noise after install but I figured it was just coolant on the belt which in part it probably was at the time. But now since I cleaned and replaced the belt I'm a little lost on what it could be. Is it possible that a pulley might squeal after startup? Doesn't make sense cause after I drive it to school it can sit for 2-3 hours and squeal basically immediately after startup which makes me more suspicious of the noise being caused by moisture.
 

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actually, that doesn't even look like the right water pump.

Below is how the correct one looks. I took pictures of the side where the bolt hole bosses are.

499953

499954
499955


sorry i edited a few times, i had trouble understanding what you did.

So, recap, you are on pump #3, correct? replaced pump #1 (original pump on the car) with pump #2 (pic you showed) then gave up and replaced it with pump #3 (what is on the car now)?

can i ask you if all 3 pumps looked the same? did you compare them?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
actually, that doesn't even look like the right water pump.

Below is how the correct one looks. I took pictures of the side where the bolt hole bosses are.

View attachment 499953
View attachment 499954 View attachment 499955

sorry i edited a few times, i had trouble understanding what you did.

So, recap, you are on pump #3, correct? replaced pump #1 (original pump on the car) with pump #2 (pic you showed) then gave up and replaced it with pump #3 (what is on the car now)?

can i ask you if all 3 pumps looked the same? did you compare them?
All 3 pumps looked alike and look identical to the one in the pic you posted. I'm on the 3rd pump. The 2 replacement pumps had a minor clearance issue with the stock bolt. The bolt is the one of the 2 where the coolant hose connects to the left of the pump below the tensioner.
 

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All 3 pumps looked alike and look identical to the one in the pic you posted. I'm on the 3rd pump. The 2 replacement pumps had a minor clearance issue with the stock bolt. The bolt is the one of the 2 where the coolant hose connects to the left of the pump below the tensioner.
You mean the bolts for the thermostat housing?

Kind of trying to imagine how what you described is possible. Unless maybe you used the wrong thermostat housing. There are two styles, one uses an o-ring, one does not. Not sure if the flange is a different thickness. Other than that, a simple washer could have fixed that issue.

I don't think it is helicoiled. You just pulled the threads our because they are aluminum and the bolt you used was too short.

Those holes aren't blind either... and the factory bolts aren't that long, so seriously, how did the head snap off?

Are you sure you didn't cross thread it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You mean the bolts for the thermostat housing?

Kind of trying to imagine how what you described is possible. Unless maybe you used the wrong thermostat housing. There are two styles, one uses an o-ring, one does not. Not sure if the flange is a different thickness. Other than that, a simple washer could have fixed that issue.

I don't think it is helicoiled. You just pulled the threads our because they are aluminum and the bolt you used was too short.

Those holes aren't blind either... and the factory bolts aren't that long, so seriously, how did the head snap off?

Are you sure you didn't cross thread it?
I didn't crossthread it and I'm fairly sure that it was helicoiled. The broken helicoil fell out and looked like a spring. I used a torque wrench set to 10 pounds when it broke. You can see in the pic where the bolt threads dug into the outside of the 2nd pump. That caused it build up resistance and the resistance caused it to snap. The pic is of the backside of the water pump at the thermostat. I bought the car 6 years ago with 19k miles so im sure it had the original water pump and bolts. These replacement pumps have a lifetime warranty and are all probably refurbished units. The new unit didn't come with a thermostat housing and you had to swap yours over. I am sure I have the right thermostat for this pump and gasket or ring. There were no replacment bolts included either. 20200115_192855.jpg 20200115_192914.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Seriously, take that junk back and get an acdelco water pump and the right thermostat housing.
If it wasn't such a pain to switch it out I would try to request a brand new unit that wasn't once refurbished. I like the lifetime warranty part as I plan on keeping this car forever, especially after I put so much money into it. Plus this was $100 cheaper than the other pumps. I'm still a broke college student and will remain so until the end of this year when I finally graduate so a $100 difference and a lifetime warranty is king.
 

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Seriously, take that junk back and get an acdelco water pump and the right thermostat housing.
I didn't crossthread it and I'm fairly sure that it was helicoiled. The broken helicoil fell out and looked like a spring. I used a torque wrench set to 10 pounds when it broke. You can see in the pic where the bolt threads dug into the outside of the 2nd pump. That caused it build up resistance and the resistance caused it to snap. The pic is of the backside of the water pump at the thermostat. I bought the car 6 years ago with 19k miles so im sure it had the original water pump and bolts. These replacement pumps have a lifetime warranty and are all probably refurbished units. The new unit didn't come with a thermostat housing and you had to swap yours over. I am sure I have the right thermostat for this pump and gasket or ring. There were no replacment bolts included either. View attachment 499958 View attachment 499959
I would take the above advice.

It looked to me that the spot you described was where the the hole was drilled and already threaded for the bolt, it just went into the casting a little. I would have imagined you should have felt the increase in resistance and stopped, or if you were using the torque wrench like you said, it would have stopped at 10 ft lbs. That's shouldn't be enough torque to snap that bolt. i would think. the stock bolt shouldn't protrude out of the hole anyway.

ANYWAY this is pointless. Smurfing internet diagnosing. 😭

Your belt can slip silently, then squeak as they get traction. i've had contaminated belts so it before. It could also be because one of your accessories suddenly puts drag on the system and makes the belt slip.

Just clean everything up with break clean and replace the belt. Make sure it isn't leaking. Don't use grease, dressing, or anything else.
 

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If it wasn't such a pain to switch it out I would try to request a brand new unit that wasn't once refurbished. I like the lifetime warranty part as I plan on keeping this car forever, especially after I put so much money into it. Plus this was $100 cheaper than the other pumps. I'm still a broke college student and will remain so until the end of this year when I finally graduate so a $100 difference and a lifetime warranty is king.
I hate to sound like a old boomer, but if it's your only car, sell the procharger and fix it up right. Modded cars take $$$$ to maintain.

Then re-mod when you become a doctor or trade it for a vette.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I would take the above advice.

It looked to me that the spot you described was where the the hole was drilled and already threaded for the bolt, it just went into the casting a little. I would have imagined you should have felt the increase in resistance and stopped, or if you were using the torque wrench like you said, it would have stopped at 10 ft lbs. That's shouldn't be enough torque to snap that bolt. i would think. the stock bolt shouldn't protrude out of the hole anyway.

ANYWAY this is pointless. Smurfing internet diagnosing. 😭

Your belt can slip silently, then squeak as they get traction. i've had contaminated belts so it before. It could also be because one of your accessories suddenly puts drag on the system and makes the belt slip.

Just clean everything up with break clean and replace the belt. Make sure it isn't leaking. Don't use grease, dressing, or anything else.
I didn't use the torque wrench when I broke the bolt on the 2nd pump. I only use the torque wrench after I have the bolt threaded all the way in. I only broke the helicoil with the torque wrench which was on the 3rd pump.It was a while ago so I can't remember exactly why I didn't stop. It broke down at a inconvenient place and time so I was trying to get it done. All the stores were closed at that time when I discovered the issue with the bolt. Also I just remembered after looking at the current water pump that there is a little indention where that bolt screws in Possibly from a previous user so I know that it is not just me. Probably this brand just has a small design flaw that is easily avoidable if your aware of it. Its hard to see but if you look at the picture I posted earlier of the thermostat you can see the little indention.

It has a brand brand new belt. What I can do to help troubleshoot it is to spray down all the accessories with a water spray bottle and if the noise momentarily goes away when spraying a specific pulley/belt it can help pinpoint the issue. I figured since I'm a little occupied at the moment and it's typically more common in my experience for the noise to be more audible at startup to start here and see if anyone had any suggestions, cause the signs are pointing elsewhere based on that this happened after the water pump replacement unless it is just a coincidence.

I have a reliable beater car on the side. The pro-charger was a budget build and I got most of these parts for a very good price.Going all out and Re-doing the fuel system completely for e-85 was the main cost along with the twin disk clutch. I went all out on the reliable aspects of it(800lph of fuel) and cut corners on cost when it came to all the other aspects of it. Its not going to have any major issues anytime soon especially the way I currently drive it.
Plus there is nothing really wrong with it. I've been driving it often lately, just the noise annoys me. I didn't put 3 grand into the exhaust just to have a squeal make it sound like crap. (I haven't always been a college student. ;)
 

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i could keep picking apart some of the stuff you say, but whatever.

i also shouldn't bother preaching to you, but a water pump is not a spot where you should cut costs.

but do your thing man. sounds like you think you got it all figured out anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i could keep picking apart some of the stuff you say, but whatever.

i also shouldn't bother preaching to you, but a water pump is not a spot where you should cut costs.

but do your thing man. sounds like you think you got it all figured out anyway.
A water pump may be a important component but its not going to result in a big disaster. I have scan gauges which always monitor my coolant temperatures so If there is a leak or failure, worst case scenario I have to pull over and call a friend or make a pit stop and buy a lot of distilled water for the long ride home. My engine is not going to detonate or anything.

I appreciate your time and your suggestions. I was just looking to see if anyone has experienced any similar symptoms because to me the noise points to moisture being on the belt as It doesn't make noise the first start of the day (at least for the first 3 min.) but does on later startups the same day. It's like the "moisture" hasn't evaporated yet. Which points to the main problem possibly being that the water pump has a tiny residue leak causing the moisture and therefore noise. (but then again if the water pump has a leak then the coolant would likely not evaporate quickly and the noise would probably be evident at startup.)
Honestly, I was hoping to hear of another potential problem that can cause these exact symptoms cause I don't like the idea of removing everything in order to replace the water pump.
I'll post an update when I find the culprit. Thanks.
 

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Hello all. Recently I replaced my water pump due to a leak. I replaced it with the cheap duralast version. I ended up having to replace it twice due to a clearance issue when installing the first one due to the factory bolts being too long for the new water pump. The first time I changed out the pump, I ended up breaking the end off a bolt when it made contact with the back side of the pump. So I traded this pump for another and when I torque the 2nd bolt with a much shorter bolt than before(that only screwed in 75% of the total thread length) the threads broke. Turns out it had a helicoil installed. So I used the longer stock bolt which had enough clearance here and was able to torque it to the required 10lb using the last 25% remaining thread. No more stores nearby had another water pump at the moment so I had to settle for this.

After changing my water pump I have a pretty loud squealing noise coming from the engine bay. It doesn't exist at startup but starts a few min. Later and doesn't go away the rest of the day. I already changed my main belt which didn't fix anything. I've had this problem for a couple months at least so it's not going away on its own.
My best guess is that maybe the new water pump has a very tiny leak but my coolant temp. Is staying consistent so that might not be the case. The water pump has a lifetime warranty and I could replace it but I would rather not especially since it is a pita to remove my procharger stuff in order to get to it.

Anyone have any suggestions or tips? Is it possible it could be a bearing? I did forget to grease my tensioner bearing as my water pump failed at my gf's house and I didn't have all my stuff with me.
This may sound like way left field but I've been down that road and it drove me crazy; take the A/C belt off, if the squeak continues I'm out, if it stops it is the A/C belt tensioner. Before anyone hollars 'sealed bearing' hear me out; The back of that tension arm is open, inside is a clock spring, the outer end of that spring bears against the casting, for reasons that are still unclear to me that contact can start to move allowing it to scratch across the contact area whenever the arm moves (a lot more than you may think) thus creating the squeak. Only thing I can figure is the fluid is just slick enough to allow that spring end to start moving, once it starts it's game over. The very same sequence of evens happened to me; changed pump, shortly after the squeak starts, not there until warmed up and down the road. I cut 2 A/C belts off while on the way to 2 shows; let the belt off, spun the wheel quite as a mouse even through a -scope, belt back on still no noise, must have it licked, 10 miles down the road SQUEAK. Grrrrrrrrrr. New wheel/bearing assembly SSDD. Not till I (in desperation) bought the entire tensioner did I figure it out, it was that spring dragging, there is a white metal spot that told the story. If you want to be absolutely certain go down the road, when the noise starts cut the belt off (no small task in itself) if it noise stops there is your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This may sound like way left field but I've been down that road and it drove me crazy; take the A/C belt off, if the squeak continues I'm out, if it stops it is the A/C belt tensioner. Before anyone hollars 'sealed bearing' hear me out; The back of that tension arm is open, inside is a clock spring, the outer end of that spring bears against the casting, for reasons that are still unclear to me that contact can start to move allowing it to scratch across the contact area whenever the arm moves (a lot more than you may think) thus creating the squeak. Only thing I can figure is the fluid is just slick enough to allow that spring end to start moving, once it starts it's game over. The very same sequence of evens happened to me; changed pump, shortly after the squeak starts, not there until warmed up and down the road. I cut 2 A/C belts off while on the way to 2 shows; let the belt off, spun the wheel quite as a mouse even through a -scope, belt back on still no noise, must have it licked, 10 miles down the road SQUEAK. Grrrrrrrrrr. New wheel/bearing assembly SSDD. Not till I (in desperation) bought the entire tensioner did I figure it out, it was that spring dragging, there is a white metal spot that told the story. If you want to be absolutely certain go down the road, when the noise starts cut the belt off (no small task in itself) if it noise stops there is your issue.
I think you may be right, the ac is looking to be a likely cause. I noticed today after driving for 30min. The noise sometimes goes away momentarily or quiets down. If I turn my ac on the noise gets louder or comes back and I understand the a/c belt is always spinning. I remember I had the occasional squeal before and I narrowed it down to a pulley on the ac using a spray bottle. I never took any action cause it seemed to go away on it's own. Maybe it came back now by coincidence. I'll test it again with the spray bottle soon when I have some time.
 

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I had issues with a squealing noise after changing the water pulley. Take off the A/C compressor belt and see if that cures it. Getting coolant on the belt tends to make them squeal loudly. For me, changing the A/C belt fixed the problem.
 

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I think you may be right, the ac is looking to be a likely cause. I noticed today after driving for 30min. The noise sometimes goes away momentarily or quiets down. If I turn my ac on the noise gets louder or comes back and I understand the a/c belt is always spinning. I remember I had the occasional squeal before and I narrowed it down to a pulley on the ac using a spray bottle. I never took any action cause it seemed to go away on it's own. Maybe it came back now by coincidence. I'll test it again with the spray bottle soon when I have some time.
A buddy also has an 06 that was squeaking, someone gave him the idea it was the A/C clutch though there was little change in sound in or out but when he sprayed silicone at it the squeak went away for awhile, had me kinda sold on it too so I checked it out, found nothing. What happened of course was the lube swirled around the turbulence and into the back of the tension arm killing the squeak temporarily. He finally got tired of buying spray by the drum and replaced the unit, problem solved.
 
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