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Just got a 04 gto less then 5 months ago , I already have K&N CAI and SLP Exhaust at the moment but also have longtube headers coming in at the end of the week then they’re getting installed with a dyno tune at a local shop. I’m wondering what people would recommend going with after those few upgrades ?? Looking for more HP even just best things to upgrade in general . New to this car stuff lol
 

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Big bang for the buck......CAM

Remember, HP looks good on Dyno, YOU GOTTA BE ABLE TO PLANT IT

Save money by setting goals - dd, sdd, track etc
 
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Wanna make more power? Ditch that crappy HAI and get an OTR like this instead:

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Big bang for the buck......CAM

Remember, HP looks good on Dyno, YOU GOTTA BE ABLE TO PLANT IT

Save money by setting goals - dd, sdd, track etc
Definitely want a cam , it’s my daily driver so not obnoxiously choppy , had a few people say stage 3 . Any recommendations on websites for cams? I know Texas speed is good .
 

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Definitely want a cam , it’s my daily driver so not obnoxiously choppy , had a few people say stage 3 . Any recommendations on websites for cams? I know Texas speed is good .
Ed Curtis - Flowtech Induction

Also, before you start adding too much power, make sure you address the suspension if it hasn’t already been refreshed/redone.
 

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First, congrats on your new GTO! I just picked mine up a little over a year ago, and it's been a great car, love it.
It was 100% stock when I got it, and have done the following in order:

1)MGW-p shifter(the stock one was shot, would recommend it feels so much better)
2)Hinson Poly trans mount, stopped the sloppy shifter bounce from stock mount
3)Corsa sport exhaust(awesome sound, no drone, great quality)

I have an Lingenfelter Cold Air induction on order for the last 2 months. I know everyone loves the OTR intakes but I can't stand that you have to cut the shroud and I like the way the LPE looks way better(more OEM and uses stock intake location, also compatible with a maggie). I agree though if you want the extra ponies it's hard to argue that the OTR wouldn't give you some more.

Next I would get some coated Kooks 1 7/8 headers, high flow catted mids, and Hinson poly motor mounts. After that, either a cam or maggie or both!

As far as suspension mods, my car seems OK right now but I'm sure I'll need some bushings, etc. down the road, and probably a new clutch. Also when my tires need replacing I'm doing new wheels, rolled fenders, and running 275's in the rear.

Anyway just wanted to give you an idea of my first mods if it gives you any ideas.
 

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Contrary to what two posts above says, a shifter replacement isn't going to help your A4.

Don't forget to hold down the traction control button for 20 seconds to engage race mode.
 

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Contrary to what two posts above says, a shifter replacement isn't going to help your A4.

Don't forget to hold down the traction control button for 20 seconds to engage race mode.
So THAT'S what i've been doing wrong this whole time. It's TWENTY seconds...

I was promised turbo bewst, i gotz wheelhopz insteadz.
 

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How many miles on the car?

With your current mods and tune coming up anyway at the same time I'd say cam and valve springs is the correct answer for what you should go ahead and do now. If it's an auto then also add a converter. The number of miles on the motor influence my opinion on what else should do at the same time as the cam. Timing set, oil pump, pushrods, and trunion upgrade make sense to do at the same time, but may not be absolutely necessary.

The cam choice should be made with long term goals in mind. Super charger in the future or staying NA or nitrous later? A centrifugal is less picky about the cam than other types of power adders. NA cams work pretty well with a centri actually unless it has a ton of overlap. Long tubes can be sold in a year if you want to go turbo instead. Either way choose the cam for your long term goals do it once and be done. After the cam/headers and tune then you can spend time working on the suspension before you add a power adder and then fun really begins.

Recently I made a hit on the street with 275/50/15 ET street R tires and had to pedal near the top of 2nd gear around 80 mph so it short shifted 3rd a bit at 6500 instead of around 7000 rpm where it will normally shift at wot. Log showed I backed off to 72% throttle before putting it back down once it hit 3rd gear. Left rear was almost across center the went the other way to almost the right line all this over 70 mph before I pedaled. Once in 3rd I was gone though Good times!
 

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Surprised no one has mentioned transmission... Buncha M6 guys lol. That's the first thing I'd look at before doing any major power adders beyond an OTR intake/headers. RPM, Monster, Performabuilt, and Gearstar are a few good household names. Stock 4L60s really don't like much more than stock HP, if that. If you don't do it now you'll be doing it later. Some of those companies also offer converters, but I'd also hit up TCI or Circle D and have them spec you out a converter while your in there, anything much over a stock cam profile will only benefit from a higher stall converter.

Or, you can M6 swap it, lol
 

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Surprised no one has mentioned transmission... Buncha M6 guys lol. That's the first thing I'd look at before doing any major power adders beyond an OTR intake/headers. RPM, Monster, Performabuilt, and Gearstar are a few good household names. Stock 4L60s really don't like much more than stock HP, if that. If you don't do it now you'll be doing it later. Some of those companies also offer converters, but I'd also hit up TCI or Circle D and have them spec you out a converter while your in there, anything much over a stock cam profile will only benefit from a higher stall converter.

Or, you can M6 swap it, lol
wait till kfxguy hears that you talked about his trans.
 

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I ran a stock 4l60e on a heads/cam car for a good while daily driven and raced at the strip no issues at all. I only had it rebuilt because I was switching to a 408 with nitrous. My current car had the stock 4l60e with a cam for a year and then I procharged it to about 500 rwhp for a while on stock trans without issues before I had it rebuilt because I was putting a forged ls3 and bumping up to 800+ rwhp. I cammed/stalled GTO with a trans cooler shouldn't be an issue for a good while unless the car already has a ton of miles on it without ever changing the fluid, which is a very real possibility as normal people that aren't enthusiasts like us never change their trans fluid.
 

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My 4L65e.has handled everything I've thrown at it. Even with some replacement Chinese parts. Unless you're doing FI bolt-ons, don't worry about that little A4 just yet.
 

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