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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking at a picking up a Goat that only has one key, and very likely doesnt have any of the factory key codes. I did some searching here, but most of the posts seemed pretty old, when Pontiac dealers were still a thing. Is it even possible to A)find a new blank and fob, and B)find someone to cut the key?
 

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GTOless
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@Juniorss can sell you a new fob and blank

i did find someone to cut a blank off the original but it doesnt work as well (which is typical, not sure where to get a factory key code for it to be cut?)
Thanks!

I know dealers used to be able to get the key code for the car but it took a competent dealership. They can cut it based off the key you have now and it should be ok. I have aftermarket and oem blanks, I push people towards the oem blank. Most others selling the keys only sell aftermarket.
 

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'05 PBM M6/K3 GSX-R1000
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So I just went through an episode where my solitary OEM FOB finally succumbed to entropy and basically disintegrated thus not allowing me to start the car. Making things worse was the fact that I set the alarm that morning before the FOB totally fell apart and was no longer able to turn it off and thus the alarm blaring when I tried opening the door or try to crank the engine.

Calling the local GMC/Buick dealer only led to more disappointment as I was told that the part is discontinued and that my situation is an absurd one and that I should "throw the car away". Madness.

Anyway, after scouring teh interwebz I found one dude in NY that bought a bulk pack of the OEM FOBs direct from Ausland and it programmed just like the instructions on this forum said. Because the alarm was on, I got that bizarre message on the cluster talking about "alarm overide by hotwire". I did transplant my original key into the new scaffolding so didn't have to worry about the key-cutting and the car started like normal. The link below is the guy whom I bought it from and it DOES come with a blank OEM key ready for cutting.

Hopefully this helps. ;)

Link:

 

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GTOless
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So I just went through an episode where my solitary OEM FOB finally succumbed to entropy and basically disintegrated thus not allowing me to start the car. Making things worse was the fact that I set the alarm that morning before the FOB totally fell apart and was no longer able to turn it off and thus the alarm blaring when I tried opening the door or try to crank the engine.

Calling the local GMC/Buick dealer only led to more disappointment as I was told that the part is discontinued and that my situation is an absurd one and that I should "throw the car away". Madness.

Anyway, after scouring teh interwebz I found one dude in NY that bought a bulk pack of the OEM FOBs direct from Ausland and it programmed just like the instructions on this forum said. Because the alarm was on, I got that bizarre message on the cluster talking about "alarm overide by hotwire". I did transplant my original key into the new scaffolding so didn't have to worry about the key-cutting and the car started like normal. The link below is the guy whom I bought it from and it DOES come with a blank OEM key ready for cutting.

Hopefully this helps. ;)

Link:

That would be me 😉
 

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Semi-related question. I have two OEM fobs and they still work fine, but I have to be on borrowed time. Over the years, I have read the programming instructions here and they seem very straight-forward. However, one of the posts I read (recently) said something about "Dont screw up during the reprogramming or you'll have to replace your BCM".

That sounds incredulous and dangerous, if true. Is there any truth in this 'toast your BCM' statement?
 

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Semi-related question. I have two OEM fobs and they still work fine, but I have to be on borrowed time. Over the years, I have read the programming instructions here and they seem very straight-forward. However, one of the posts I read (recently) said something about "Dont screw up during the reprogramming or you'll have to replace your BCM".

That sounds incredulous and dangerous, if true. Is there any truth in this 'toast your BCM' statement?
Impossible... But be sure that your battery is fully charged and off the charger when you start.
 

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Is that FWD?
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I bought a new OEM Keyfob off ebay and followed these instructions, works perfectly.
Just want to confirm this still works.

GTO Genuine GM Key FOB Remote Transmitter 92123129

  1. Turn ignition ON with a valid key.
  2. Leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp once.
  3. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirp and ON again within 5 seconds. If the timing expires for this step, the sequence will be cancelled.
  4. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp twice.
  5. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirps and ON again within 5 seconds.
  6. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes, after 10 minutes the car horn will chirp three times. During the three horn chirps the BCM and PIM are being linked.
  7. Verify the security light is not blinking on dash. Turn the ignition to crank and run engine at idle speed, to confirm the linking procedure has been successful.
  8. Turn ignition off, walk 10 feet away and confirm lock/unlock buttons and truck work.

 
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GTOless
Joined
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7,189 Posts
Semi-related question. I have two OEM fobs and they still work fine, but I have to be on borrowed time. Over the years, I have read the programming instructions here and they seem very straight-forward. However, one of the posts I read (recently) said something about "Dont screw up during the reprogramming or you'll have to replace your BCM".

That sounds incredulous and dangerous, if true. Is there any truth in this 'toast your BCM' statement?
I have read that you can brick the key fob if not done correctly (not sure how true that is), but never heard the one about the BCM.
 

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'05 PBM M6/K3 GSX-R1000
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260 Posts
That would be me 😉
Dude! Thanks so much for working with me and overnighting the FOB to me, it totally saved the day! :)

Impossible... But be sure that your battery is fully charged and off the charger when you start.
I can report that the battery can even be below the level where it cranks the starter and the programming method below still proceeds as described. With my car sitting for about 8 days and the alarm going off many times while I struggled with the solution, the battery drained near empty but still had enough juice to power the dash/electronics and it was enough for the programming sequence.

I bought a new OEM Keyfob off ebay and followed these instructions, works perfectly.
Just want to confirm this still works.

GTO Genuine GM Key FOB Remote Transmitter 92123129

  1. Turn ignition ON with a valid key.
  2. Leave the ignition in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp once.
  3. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirp and ON again within 5 seconds. If the timing expires for this step, the sequence will be cancelled.
  4. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the car horn will chirp twice.
  5. Turn the ignition OFF within 5 minutes after the horn chirps and ON again within 5 seconds.
  6. Leave the key in the ON position for 10 minutes, after 10 minutes the car horn will chirp three times. During the three horn chirps the BCM and PIM are being linked.
  7. Verify the security light is not blinking on dash. Turn the ignition to crank and run engine at idle speed, to confirm the linking procedure has been successful.
  8. Turn ignition off, walk 10 feet away and confirm lock/unlock buttons and truck work.
Yes, this worked exactly as described for me.
 
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