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Discussion Starter #1
421 cubed, Whippled, 11.5:1 motor. E85.

Engine is done with good stuff. Bottom end good for well north of 1500 to the wheels. Presently running somewhere in the neighborhood of a "fat" 900 to "light" 1000 at the wheels.

Kinda have the itch to bottle it. Say a 200 wet shot via fogger. There's a ton of fuel supply so that's easy.

Auto trans. Running lower end of 6 seconds in the 1/8th right now. Be nice to bang on the 5 second door. (and shut down some local mouth breathers who can't think beyond a carburetor, lol.)

The TB is a 109mm Whipple piece. Nobody (that I've found) makes a plate that big. It's not a big deal as I own a machine shop. I can whittle out a plate pretty fast and tapping for a Fogger nozzle seems like the easy button solution.

Just really novice about controlling it. I'm a manual VB 4L80 trans. P59 ECU flashed with an Escalade OS and the HPT 3 bar overlay.

Whats the "gooder" electronic stuff to buy to make this stupid easy to setup?

Thanks.
 

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2,289 Posts
Talk to the guys at nitrous outlet. They'll get you going in the right direction. On my first GTO I used one of their kits and I was very satisfied with it
 

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59 Posts
Nitrous Power Controller NPC-2006 Progressive Nitrous Controller by Induction solutions is a cake walk to install and has a crap load of features.
 

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2006GTO M6 dd-drag-roadcourse
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1,464 Posts
The cheapest and easiest progressive controller out there is the NOS Mini Controller. I’ve installed 4 of those units on different customer cars. No relays needed. Its great for EFI cars. Tach signal from a coil, tps signal, main power and acc power. Its got progressive control, delay start, window switch, timed trigger output, and 2 separate stages if you decide to do a plate kit for coming out of the hole and the fogger for back half.

It also has a resume or reset feature... lets say you set the progressive mode to delay .05 sec on the hit, starting at 50% ramping to 100% over 2 seconds... but half second out, you pedal the car to stop wheel spin... you can have the controller pause the progressive ramp exactly where its at and pick back up when you’re at 100% tps again. Or lets say you are blowing the tires off with the nitrous on gear change and its a stick car... you can set that same 50% to 100% ramp to reset everytime you clutch in or lift.

Obviously these features are available on most controllers. But its the only controller out there that offer all these for under $300.

If you want to program it with a laptop you can go with the nitrous maximizer 5 and do dual ramp setups ect. But i find the NOS Mini Controller little hand held programmer to be really convenient when you’re at the track in the staging lanes making changes. Its on a 4 foot cord so take it out and toss it back in the glove box when ur done. Controllers like the Edlebrock progressive box have the controls on the unit itself... so where ever you mount it, thats where you programming it. I like to hide my electronics so that becomes a pain in the butt programming if you try to hide it somewhere.

The solenoids are negative pulse width controlled. So hook your fuel and nitrous solenoids up to the negative coming from the box, and the other side to a fused +12v acc source and ur done. The only reason you would need relays in the circuit is if you are coming off a trans brake or 2 step and you’re at 100% tps before launching. In that case you’ll need a simple interrupt relay that unlatches the activation signal while you’ve got the 2 step or trans brake button pushed.
 

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Premium Member
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The cheapest and easiest progressive controller out there is the NOS Mini Controller. I’ve installed 4 of those units on different customer cars. No relays needed. Its great for EFI cars. Tach signal from a coil, tps signal, main power and acc power. Its got progressive control, delay start, window switch, timed trigger output, and 2 separate stages if you decide to do a plate kit for coming out of the hole and the fogger for back half.

It also has a resume or reset feature... lets say you set the progressive mode to delay .05 sec on the hit, starting at 50% ramping to 100% over 2 seconds... but half second out, you pedal the car to stop wheel spin... you can have the controller pause the progressive ramp exactly where its at and pick back up when you’re at 100% tps again. Or lets say you are blowing the tires off with the nitrous on gear change and its a stick car... you can set that same 50% to 100% ramp to reset everytime you clutch in or lift.

Obviously these features are available on most controllers. But its the only controller out there that offer all these for under $300.

If you want to program it with a laptop you can go with the nitrous maximizer 5 and do dual ramp setups ect. But i find the NOS Mini Controller little hand held programmer to be really convenient when you’re at the track in the staging lanes making changes. Its on a 4 foot cord so take it out and toss it back in the glove box when ur done. Controllers like the Edlebrock progressive box have the controls on the unit itself... so where ever you mount it, thats where you programming it. I like to hide my electronics so that becomes a pain in the butt programming if you try to hide it somewhere.

The solenoids are negative pulse width controlled. So hook your fuel and nitrous solenoids up to the negative coming from the box, and the other side to a fused +12v acc source and ur done. The only reason you would need relays in the circuit is if you are coming off a trans brake or 2 step and you’re at 100% tps before launching. In that case you’ll need a simple interrupt relay that unlatches the activation signal while you’ve got the 2 step or trans brake button pushed.


I signed up for this site in 2006. Got booted for awhile after showing some photos from Iraq that were a little "real" for some folks. I asked to be reinstated years later.

It's for reasons like this. A thoughtful, detailed, and informative response. Thank you. I really appreciate it.

I'll get the stuff on order and report back with the progress.

Have a great week all and thanks again.
 

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2006GTO M6 dd-drag-roadcourse
Joined
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1,464 Posts
I signed up for this site in 2006. Got booted for awhile after showing some photos from Iraq that were a little "real" for some folks. I asked to be reinstated years later.

It's for reasons like this. A thoughtful, detailed, and informative response. Thank you. I really appreciate it.

I'll get the stuff on order and report back with the progress.

Have a great week all and thanks again.
No problem man! Forgot to mention, when you set the window switch (ie. activation at lets say 3,500 and deactivation at 6,500 for example)... make sure you set the deactivation at least 400-500 rpm short of your rev limiter. Stock style ecu is fuel cut at the limiter. If you put it on the limiter with spray and get fuel cut you can go boom real fast.
 

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339 Posts
No problem man! Forgot to mention, when you set the window switch (ie. activation at lets say 3,500 and deactivation at 6,500 for example)... make sure you set the deactivation at least 400-500 rpm short of your rev limiter. Stock style ecu is fuel cut at the limiter. If you put it on the limiter with spray and get fuel cut you can go boom real fast.
No fuel no boom. I've had a few auto shifted cars where I've hit the limiter a lot on the street due to wheel spin. Turbo, nitrous, and now a centri setup. Never hurt a motor by hitting the fuel cut. My window switch cut nitrous right before the shift which was a few hundred rpm before the fuel cut limiter. So while I agree it should be cutting off nitrous before the limiter (no need to spray till the limiter which should be well beyond your shift point anyway) I don't believe it would go boom because no fuel no boom.

I've been on the limiter more times with my current car on the street than I've ever been and it's just a stock bottom end. Not nitrous, but a fuel cut doesn't create the type of lean damage people think it will. No fuel no boom.
 
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