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Money Pit
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Discussion Starter #1
I have the c-cam in my car currently, what would be the nastiest but driveable setup for heads I could get? Is it better to get assembled heads or should I just reuse my parts.

I know I can sell my stock heads, so I might just buy assembled and someone can buy my heads w/springs and all ready to drop right in their car which could increase the resale by a little and involve no work. Basically all I would need to do is take off the intake manifold and valve cover gaskets and swap them straight out right?

What kind of power am I looking at?
 

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TEA stage 3 ls6 for the 'stock look' or TEA worked Trick flow for a 4 inch bore. the flow numbers are on par with AFR.. there is a guy in GA running ls6 stage 3 with a cam a tick bigger than ours doing 470 to the tire IIRC. and his dyno is more like Nicks down here
 

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Money Pit
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Discussion Starter #3
You know the link to TEA's site by chance?

Is the install basically what I think and all I would need is valve cover, intake manifold, and head gaskets?
 

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fat nick said:
You know the link to TEA's site by chance?

Is the install basically what I think and all I would need is valve cover, intake manifold, and head gaskets?
head gaskets everything else should be ok to use over
 

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Money Pit
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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I replaced everything during my cam install 6k ago including head gaskets.
 

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fat nick said:
Yeah I replaced everything during my cam install 6k ago including head gaskets.
call TEA,jeff, or Nick.. because if you order them milled you cam raise the comp. ratio because of the cam size. :pimp: with a prefect setup 500rwhp is in sight
 

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I was told on stock displacement, you're foolish to use Stage III LS6 heads. You'll have a dog until 5K RPM. Stage 2.5 is the biggest you should go, leave the Stg III and above for the big displacement boys.
 

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8ball said:
I was told on stock displacement, you're foolish to use Stage III LS6 heads. You'll have a dog until 5K RPM. Stage 2.5 is the biggest you should go, leave the Stg III and above for the big displacement boys.
mines a dog till 4,000 as it. another 1,000 only means a restall on the verter :ftw:
 

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Jbss71 said:
mines a dog till 4,000 as it. another 1,000 only means a restall on the verter :ftw:
Another 1k RPM means you will hardly ever be in your power range....not to mention a steep degradation of driveability. Sure your peak numbers may be nice, but on the street or the track, guaranteed you will be getting whooped on by cars making far less peak power, but more power under the curve and a broader power band....
 

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8ball said:
guaranteed you will be getting whooped on by cars making far less peak power, but more power under the curve and a broader power band....
lol, ok whatever you say gose. i've been beating cars with more power for years, you know why? its called a package. rear gear, stall, cam/heads and chassis ''all need to love each other'' doing your homework matters..

i see it all the time on this site, people asking what cam or what stall and people just ramble out cam specs. and pick stall Numbers out of a hat it seems.

plus look at some of these blower cars that make all this under the curve power cool, great, prefect but they come back making threads like ''2.0 60 foot is all i could do :tear: '' whats the point or having that pretty dyno sheet making all this sexy tq. only to have the tires and chassis tell you to ''get lost'' come track time
 

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Jbss71 said:
lol, ok whatever you say gose. i've been beating cars with more power for years, you know why? its called a package. rear gear, stall, cam/heads and chassis ''all need to love each other'' doing your homework matters..

i see it all the time on this site, people asking what cam or what stall and people just ramble out cam specs. and pick stall Numbers out of a hat it seems.

plus look at some of these blower cars that make all this under the curve power cool, great, prefect but they come back making threads like ''2.0 60 foot is all i could do :tear: '' whats the point or having that pretty dyno sheet making all this sexy tq. only to have the tires and chassis tell you to ''get lost'' come track time
You're argument doesn't argue my point at all. We're not talking about putting power to the ground but rather, power under the curve v. peak power. Of course not getting power to the ground makes the power in itself next to useless, but get two cars that can hook equally as well as the other and tell me a peaky power curve is better than a broad, linear curve.

This can all be ended by talking to TEA directly. Chances are they will direct you to their 2.5 heads with stock displacement.
 

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Dont be dissapointed if you don't get anything(moneywise) off those heads. I thought that also but i believe that cast number on them are different. Either way, maybe you can trick some 5.3 L truck guy. And on the heads, don't go with the biggest you can find. I put AFR 225 on my stock block and couldn't find the power. Ended up getting a new short block to compensate. So don't make the mistake i did.
 

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Nick, Listen to this HagerGTO you don't need big runners and huge valves with the C cam if you have stock displacement. I went with the big heads because I plan on a stroker real soon so I can reuse them. Try to stay in the 205-215 range and you'll get more velocity which leads to more power. I really think the AFR 205's, TEA stage 2 or the ETP 215 are perfect for stock displacement.
 

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Still a communist state
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down the road ill be going for 500whp N/A with driveability......Patriot Stage 3 ftw!
 

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speeddemon said:
down the road ill be going for 500whp N/A with driveability......Patriot Stage 3 ftw!
Again, I hope you plan on getting more cubes. I have specifically inquired with PRC and they steered me away from their Stg III heads if still on stock displacement.
 

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Money Pit
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Discussion Starter #18
Only way I'd go bigger displacement is if I throw a rod through the block, so I might just look into s2.
 

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speeddemon said:
down the road ill be going for 500whp N/A with driveability......Patriot Stage 3 ftw!

sorry but i dont see that happening.


didnt someone do it with the hellion and kooks turndowns?

personally i could not drive that to work.
 

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:secret: aw crap what do i need now a new bottom end? i thought the bottom end on the lsx's were bulletproof
 
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