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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #1
The pilot is shot so I don't care if it damages it but, can it be pulled and the new pilot bearing installed with the flywheel in place?
If not, is it true that I have to put RTV on the flywheel bolt when I put it back together to keep oil from leaking?
Is this info below correct on the TQ specs for these bolts?

"Flywheel bolts are torqued in three phases, the torque specs are 15-37-74 ft/lbs of torque.
The torque sequence is 1-4-6-2-5-3 for 6-bolt flywheels, 1-5-7-3-8-4-6-2 for 8-bolt flywheels, and 1-5-8-3-6-2-7-4-9 for 9-bolt flywheel."

When it's time to put the trans back in, do you guys attach the bell housing to the trans and install as one unit or are you attaching the bell housing to the engine (after the clutch is back on), and then attaching the trans to the bell housing?
More questions to follow.

Thanks!
 

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The pilot is shot so I don't care if it damages it but, can it be pulled and the new pilot bearing installed with the flywheel in place?
If not, is it true that I have to put RTV on the flywheel bolt when I put it back together to keep oil from leaking?
Is this info below correct on the TQ specs for these bolts?

"Flywheel bolts are torqued in three phases, the torque specs are 15-37-74 ft/lbs of torque.
The torque sequence is 1-4-6-2-5-3 for 6-bolt flywheels, 1-5-7-3-8-4-6-2 for 8-bolt flywheels, and 1-5-8-3-6-2-7-4-9 for 9-bolt flywheel."

When it's time to put the trans back in, do you guys attach the bell housing to the trans and install as one unit or are you attaching the bell housing to the engine (after the clutch is back on), and then attaching the trans to the bell housing?
More questions to follow.

Thanks!
Why would you want to install the transmssion like that? I'm not sure it can even be done? What is stopping you from pulling the fly wheel? There is no oil going to the flange, you use loctite on the bolts. Sounds like you need to ask a lot more questions
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Start at post #7


The consensus is that they are thru-holes but the medium strength blue Loctite seems to be enough to keep it from leaking. Yes?
 

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You should be able to remove and reinstall the pilot bearing without removing the FW. When my slave went out I couldn't fathom doing all that work and not installing a new clutch and rear main seal while I had the trans out though, which meant removing the FW anyway. Somewhere on this site is a PDF of a writeup on how to install a clutch, it was very useful even though it was for an 04 (mine is an 05). You should try to find that and read it to get an idea for what you're looking at.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #5
I went ahead and pulled the flywheel and ordered some ARP replacement bolts 330-2802. Definitely through holes. I could ave got the pilot bearing out and the new one in with the flywheel on, but I figured I'd upgrade the bolts while I was that far into it.
 

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you can install the trans either way, with the bellhousing on the engine first, or on the trans. in my experience it is easier to install it with the bellhousing on the engine, actually. just make sure everything lines up perfect when you insert the input shaft into the clutch splines/pilot bearing, and you should be ok..
 

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I went ahead and pulled the flywheel and ordered some ARP replacement bolts 330-2802. Definitely through holes. I could ave got the pilot bearing out and the new one in with the flywheel on, but I figured I'd upgrade the bolts while I was that far into it.
the factory replacement bolts come with thread locker/sealant installed already.

i'd worry more about upgrading the pressure plate bolts.
 

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You want to use the specific flywheel bolts that came with that kit. They are clearanced factory flywheel bolts.

If you don't, you will have major issues.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
These bad boys? SNL did the install so I didn't see what all came with the kit.
I sent the ARP bolt question to SNL as well but I don't expect to hear back until Monday.
I'll just throw the ARP set in the toolbox for the next project. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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If those are the old ones, you can see where they machined the hex heads down. You might want to ask them for a new set.

There's a few other things i am having trouble remembering off hand, such as the spacers for the pressure plate being directional somehow. You might want to get the install instructions.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #12
They are directional. The monster faces out lol. I will ask about a new set or if it is ok to reuse these.
"There are three round aluminum stands that can spin when installing them and the direction of them does not matter. There are three pinned rectangle aluminum stands that must go on as they come out of the package (Monster “hair” facing out and towards the transmission); failure to do this will result in the clutch not operating properly. All disc hubs face the transmission, do not face the disc hub on the lower disc towards the flywheel, doing so will cause damage and release issues!"
 

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Another "while you're in there", I could not see using putting the stock pressure plate and flywheel bolts since I was already in there.
The ARP FW and PP bolts aren't expensive.
 

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Another "while you're in there", I could not see using putting the stock pressure plate and flywheel bolts since I was already in there.
The ARP FW and PP bolts aren't expensive.
I would otherwise agree, but you can't use arp flywheel bolta with the lt1-s.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Correct, no ARP bolts for the flywheel. They will not clear. The bolts installed by SNL are in fact clearanced for the twin disc and they ARE Torque To Yield bolts and should not be reused. I ordered a new set from Monster.
The pressure plate bolts are already upgraded to fit the spacers for the twin-disc setup, so no need to replace those.

*I'll add a few photos as I run into issues because everything I came across here was either a blurred out Photobucket picture or a rex X.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #17
Removed old bearing, installed new bearing.
Specs on this bearing are as follows:
0.600" I.D.
1.096" O.D.
0.720" Thickness

LS1 Camaro & Firebird, LS1 & LS6 Corvette, and LS1 & LS2 GTO all use pilot bearing #14061685.
Every other LSx application uses the pilot bearing #12557583.
 

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WEEEEEEE
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Discussion Starter #18
Got the flywheel and clutch mounted back on. New shifter boot on as well.
Put the started back on and when I was torquing the bolts (37lb/ft) the housing cracked a hair on one side right as it reached 37lb/ft.
I hooked up the battery and gave it a go and it worked fine. Not sure if I should try to replace this or can it be welded? What do you guys think?
 

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Correct, no ARP bolts for the flywheel. They will not clear. The bolts installed by SNL are in fact clearanced for the twin disc and they ARE Torque To Yield bolts and should not be reused. I ordered a new set from Monster.
The pressure plate bolts are already upgraded to fit the spacers for the twin-disc setup, so no need to replace those.

*I'll add a few photos as I run into issues because everything I came across here was either a blurred out Photobucket picture or a rex X.
Forgot about the pressure plate bolts being different than stock as well on the LT1S. Out of sight, out of mind i guess.
 
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