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I really like the look of the X-Air and definitely like added performance. What was difficult about the install? I thinking about pulling the trigger on one. How much did you gain on the low end?
 

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What was difficult about the install?
You have to cut the shroud above the radiator, and pull the radiator up enough to pull the rubber bumpers out from under it and trim them down so the hood clears.
 
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You have to cut the shroud above the radiator, and pull the radiator up enough to pull the rubber bumpers out from under it and trim them down so the hood clears.
I didnt have to pull my rubber and trim them. So ymmv. It rubs just a tiny bit on the hood insulation.

I only cut the top of the fan shroud which was pretty easy also
 

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I didn’t pull the rubber bumpers but I did have to cut my shroud. I’m also very particular with how things look, so I cut it carefully and knocked down any edges. Also have to cut the boot they send. You better be sure of your measurement too because if you don’t cut it right you’ll be ordering a new tube from summit like me. 🤣

I ported my throttle body at the same time I put this cold air on. When I called my tuner, he said he doesn’t have any problem taking my $ for a few dyno pulls but it likely would be a waste of my $ and would rather me save $ for when I need to tune the nitrous system I’m going to put on the car. So, I don’t have dyno numbers to show the improvement. All I know is I could hook in 2nd from about 3000 rpm and now I’m fighting for traction. Top end, the car feels the same.

If anything, I’ll expect to see a few mph added to my 1/4 time this summer from the small mods I’ve made. Also, understand my car is far from stock. It’s a fully built 402 (I hate using that term) with a lot of expensive goodies. So the small changes have more potential to be amplified on something like mine vs a stock motor car.
 

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I ported my throttle body at the same time I put this cold air on. When I called my tuner, he said he doesn’t have any problem taking my $ for a few dyno pulls but it likely would be a waste of my $ and would rather me save $ for when I need to tune the nitrous system I’m going to put on the car.
It's anecdotal, but on both my GTO and my SS the switch to an OTR made the LTFTs swing positive by over 10%.
I finally broke the warranty seal on the SS and tuned it...no other mods but the VCM intake and it has much less KR and feels noticeably stronger after a simple MAF correction (more fuel and near 0 LTFTs).

I'd argue going from stock to a traditional CAI may not be worth paying for a tune but an OTR can warrant the adjustment.
 
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It's anecdotal, but on both my GTO and my SS the switch to an OTR made the LTFTs swing positive by over 10%.
I finally broke the warranty seal on the SS and tuned it...no other mods but the VCM intake and it has much less KR and feels noticeably stronger after a simple MAF correction (more fuel and near 0 LTFTs).

I'd argue going from stock to a traditional CAI may not be worth paying for a tune but an OTR can warrant the adjustment.
that may have more to do with the MAF being re-positioned from the stock location than an actual increase in airflow, just sayin.
 

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WOODWARDSGTO
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They all work, some work better than others. I started with a Speed Inc CAI, then LPE, then Svede. They all dropped et when I installed them for the mods at the time. I ended up staying with the Svede because it looked so much better and least restrictive according to HP Tuners scanning. LPE would have been a keeper if the Svede didn't come out though.
 

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I too started with the LPE, which I felt did make a slight difference. Moved onto the Svede with the sensor located in the housing of the SVEDE. This yielded more improvement than the LPE, but only really noticeable on very warm days. I think you would be happy with the LPE, and if does enable you to keep your OEM shroud intact as well. Here is a pic of the Svede install with the trimmed OEM shround.
122115 472.JPG
 
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