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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #1
Bummer, went to do some work on my induction (Port throttle body, cold air tube, K&N, Pace Z06 MAF) and I noticed a pool of red liquid and a trail of it running down below it. Very small leak. It's the freeze plug on the very front of the passenger side head. What a bummer. So I kept the stock parts in the car until they can fix it. I wonder if they will just change the freeze plug out or if they will need to yank the head and motor.
 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #2
Here's some photos. Does the coolant level look low compared to your cars? The motor is cold in the photo, been off for 1.5 hours.



 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #4
DANSLS1 said:
http://www.newagegto.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1343&st=20&hl=freeze

Here's a thread of the only other person I've heard of to have a problem. Sounds like it's something GM knows about. Looks like just insert the plug further and maybe some bars leak.
Good luck.
Dan
Thank you. That is actually reassuring. I can get a clear swing at it, wonder if I should give it a pop or two to nudge it in a little. Hmmm.
 

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I work for GM and every car that comes down the assembly line gets 1 to 2 tabs of stop leak put in the neck of the thermostat housing before any water or anti-freeze is added. I would get some Aluma-seal if you can find it and try that first.
 

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Just saw the picture closer -- if that is the plug sticking out futher than the head I would also tap it in at least flush.
 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #7
HD926 said:
Just saw the picture closer -- if that is the plug sticking out futher than the head I would also tap it in at least flush.
That's a shadow, it is stuck in about 3mm or so.

Is there a certain brand of stop leak I should use? It is in pill form and I should put two in? Does it plug the leak immediately or is there a waiting period to check again? Thanks for your help.
 

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HOTROD HANDYMAN
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1COOLPC said:
Thank you. That is actually reassuring. I can get a clear swing at it, wonder if I should give it a pop or two to nudge it in a little. Hmmm.
Don't touch it before you bring it to the dealer. If they see it has been tampered with you will "own" the repair. :(
 

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The tabs are about the size of a Quarter and about 1/2 inch thick. Dealer will probably do the same thing.
 

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Moderator
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I would be really scared to try to try to nudge it in myself - I am always scared that I will hit a little too hard and pop that little plug into the block.
 

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take it to the dealer

do not expose yourself to a problem. the repair is clearly a warranty itme. may take several days (or they can overnight it) to get the part. Freeze plugs ae not a normal repair concern.We did our first freese (core plugs) in a year or so last month, and that was due to owner abuse not changing coolant. The most important thing is the dealer have a driver that will match the plug.

TAKE IT TO THE DEALER
dms
 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #13
Well here's what I did at 2:08 in the morning. I can't sleep when things are messed up. I went out and drained the coolant. I took off the bolts around the freeze plug that hold a ground wire. There were 2. I took off the belt and removed the tensioner pulley assembly as that will give me even more room. Then I took a 1/2" drive extension and lightly tapped on one side of the plug. As one side went in the other started coming out. Eventually I had the plug half in and half out. I was nervous that it would go all the way inside the head. Then I wiggled it out with my fingers and had a freeze plug in my hand and a hole in my brand new car's cylinder head.
So I sized up the scene, I looked at how thick the freeze plug was and how thick the cylinder head walls were. I determined how far in the freeze plug show go to get 100% contact with it's edges. Then I painted the edges of the freeze plug with RTV and stuck it back in by hand as far as I could get it. I put a shallow socket that is nearly the size of the hole and tapped that thing in to a depth that seemed acceptable to me. I put all the parts I took off back on the engine.

I'm letting it sit for a while now so the RTV can set up. In the morning I will fill it back up with coolant and run the motor. I think it will be OK. I hope so, keep a good thought please.

But I think I will still get a tube of Aluma-Seal and put in two tabs in case other leaks may think about starting. It says on Aluma-Seal's web site to drop it in the radiator and even if you don't have a cap on the radiator to remove the upper radiator hose and drop them in there. That seems odd to me because in another section they say the coolant must be hot and circulating at the time in order for it to work properly.

Also, my impression of Aluma-Seal is not quarter size tabs but little balls. I have seen it that way at the store. If it comes in little balls I should use more right?

Finally, is Aluma-Seal better than Bar's Leak? In another thread on another board a person said that he took his car in and there was actually a GM document on this and that the dealer was instructed to use Bar's Leak first before any repair was done.

So much for taking it into the dealer, eh? They get to hell ride my Goat to lunch and drop in some stop leak.
 

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1COOLPC said:
Well here's what I did at 2:08 in the morning. I can't sleep when things are messed up. I went out and drained the coolant. I took off the bolts around the freeze plug that hold a ground wire. There were 2. I took off the belt and removed the tensioner pulley assembly as that will give me even more room. Then I took a 1/2" drive extension and lightly tapped on one side of the plug. As one side went in the other started coming out. Eventually I had the plug half in and half out. I was nervous that it would go all the way inside the head. Then I wiggled it out with my fingers and had a freeze plug in my hand and a hole in my brand new car's cylinder head.
So I sized up the scene, I looked at how thick the freeze plug was and how thick the cylinder head walls were. I determined how far in the freeze plug show go to get 100% contact with it's edges. Then I painted the edges of the freeze plug with RTV and stuck it back in by hand as far as I could get it. I put a shallow socket that is nearly the size of the hole and tapped that thing in to a depth that seemed acceptable to me. I put all the parts I took off back on the engine.

I'm letting it sit for a while now so the RTV can set up. In the morning I will fill it back up with coolant and run the motor. I think it will be OK. I hope so, keep a good thought please.

But I think I will still get a tube of Aluma-Seal and put in two tabs in case other leaks may think about starting. It says on Aluma-Seal's web site to drop it in the radiator and even if you don't have a cap on the radiator to remove the upper radiator hose and drop them in there. That seems odd to me because in another section they say the coolant must be hot and circulating at the time in order for it to work properly.

Also, my impression of Aluma-Seal is not quarter size tabs but little balls. I have seen it that way at the store. If it comes in little balls I should use more right?

Finally, is Aluma-Seal better than Bar's Leak? In another thread on another board a person said that he took his car in and there was actually a GM document on this and that the dealer was instructed to use Bar's Leak first before any repair was done.

So much for taking it into the dealer, eh? They get to hell ride my Goat to lunch and drop in some stop leak.
Your even nuttier than me when it comes to being obsessed when something isn't perfect.
 

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The tabs I spoke about is what we put in at GM -- the Aluma-Seal is a aftermarket proudect that has been around since the 60s or longer-- it is a silver powder in a tube also they have Copper-Seal that works. I have used these products for years and they work well and don't plug up anything else.
 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #16
HD926 said:
The tabs I spoke about is what we put in at GM -- the Aluma-Seal is a aftermarket proudect that has been around since the 60s or longer-- it is a silver powder in a tube also they have Copper-Seal that works. I have used these products for years and they work well and don't plug up anything else.
OK, I assume the silver powder is aluminum based from the name and that's good so there is no dissimilar metal corrosion.
 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #17
Look what I found. :)

 

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Yellow Goat
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Discussion Starter #19
HD926 said:
Looks real close and same color to what we use.
Cool! I honestly have no idea what the best one to use is, AlumaSeal, Bar's Leak or the GM stuff but I figured at least GM has tested and approves of this product in GM engines. It says compatible with Dex-Cool right on it too. It is also the dealership's first round attack on small coolant leaks from gaskets and plugs. Thanks for all your help.

PS The package says to use all 6 tabs but the guy at the dealership said to just use 3 at first.
 

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13 year owner
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JB weld always works wonders too. :D
 
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