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Member #804
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Discussion Starter #1
While at the NHRA drags this weekend I went by the manufactures alley, normally when I ask some sort of technical question I get some Lame answer of their website or a 1800 number.

Went by the Castrol tent, their was a real engineer taking the questions. I was interested in hearing his thoughts on the revised 0W30(GERMAN made only avail. at autozone) it struck a soft spot with him and spilled his guts. I explained my situation and he fully agreed 0W30 Syntec is the right oil for a LS1 or where ever 5w30 is recommended. The oil is actually made in Belgium and is sold as Castrol SLX synthetic in europe.

They have a view point in europe that less frequent oil changes is better for the environment, thus this oil is designed for extended drain intervals. Synthetic oil is more mainstream there.

For the same price as M1, Castrol Syntec 0w30 is really impressive. I would suggest the use of this oil in anyones GTO.
 

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Member #804
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Discussion Starter #4
Still I use and will continue to use Red Line, you couldn't buy better insurance for your motor.

The castrol guy gave me less then anticipated opinion of my favorite group 5 oils. Told me they arn't necessary with what is now available. But the people interpreting oil tests on LS1tech give another story.

I will try this oil at some point. I know the Red Line i've put in is good till next spring, won't get many miles this winter.
 

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Its just kind of funny, in my perspective atleast. I rarely drive my car. I change the oil alot. Even if I put dino oil in the motor isnt going to just die or anything. With the way I use the car synthetic wont keep the motor together longer or cleaner or anything like that. Like I said before I always put Red Line in my turbo regal which is a high heat application... I've used Royal Purple in my GS all the time for 35,000 miles so far and its been perfect. In the GTO I had dino oil in it for the first change, second change went to RP ... we'll see if I get some more miles so I can change it again :D
 

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Member #804
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Discussion Starter #7
The reason I use the good stuff is, if you put your motor to the limit risking damaging rod bearings. Now I don't put my motor over 6k like you do DY:p But theirs always a chance I could miss a shift.

Its not just the fact the oil is 0w30, the castrol is a thick 30wt. oil and uses high quality base stocks similar to AMSoil etc. For $5 a quart good deal.
 

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You have 250RPM above 6000 till you hit the factory limiter! I just make power a little higher thats all.

I thought you dont always want thickness/pressure. Yes you need pressure, but lubrication not pressure will save bearings. (Im not an engineer)
 

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Member #804
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Discussion Starter #9
well it seams like lighter weight oils may provide slight power increases, but they also show more bearing wear in oil tests. The oil gurus seams to like heavier oils in the LS1.
 

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Born Again Goat
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Oil Studies

I recently was considering this very subject when I did my "break-in" "first two oil changes, at 500 & 1500 miles). I wanted to make sure I used the best oil possible in my GTO, so I did some on line research. Two websites that I visited have some interesting info on this subject:

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.shtml

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

If the studies are true, then there is not alot of benefit to synthetics when changing oil at "normal" intervals on street driven vehicles.
 

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GoatChs said:
I recently was considering this very subject when I did my "break-in" "first two oil changes, at 500 & 1500 miles). I wanted to make sure I used the best oil possible in my GTO, so I did some on line research. Two websites that I visited have some interesting info on this subject:

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.shtml

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

If the studies are true, then there is not alot of benefit to synthetics when changing oil at "normal" intervals on street driven vehicles.
There has been a lot written about the consumer report test. From the report: "According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine. Thus, these oils may be a good choice for hard driving in extreme temperatures."
The NYC cabs ran 24 hours a day and rarely went over 50 mph. If that matches your driving style than the test may apply to you. If you turn your engine off at night, or occasionally drive agressively, there might be an advantage to synthentics.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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For more information than you EVER wanted to know about oil, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com Some serious lube geeks over there.
 

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Member #804
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
GoatChs said:
If the studies are true, then there is not alot of benefit to synthetics when changing oil at "normal" intervals on street driven vehicles.
Can't say I fully agree; even within normal oil drain intervals their accumulates lead iron copper. Mobil 1 even has shown higher then normal levels of lead (from the bearings). Red Line has been shown no. 1 not that i'm pushing their product, its not cheap but it does have a very good additive package.

I like the Syntec 0w30 and will be using it in my familys fleet. Mom is debating between a '01 aurora V8 or '04 GTO A4. If the incentives keep up it will be easy to persuade her the right way.
 
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