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I don't have one, and I have no clue about any shop in town.
 

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So how much of the brake booster can I get out of the way? IE if I leave the brake lines hooked up and that piece, can I remove the rest to get access easier?
 

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I'd like to remove as much as possible without having to bleed the brakes after completion. I'm going to be doing more extensive work than just replacing the master. I need to fix the firewall.
 

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Unbolt the master from the booster and it will lay down enough to completely remove the booster. Once removed, there is plenty of room to work in there without ever having to touch the brakes hydraulic system.
 

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Excellent, I'm thinking of sandwiching and at least one triangle brace welded in where the clutch pedal mount makes the 90 degree turn at the firewall.

I got all the pieces in for the repair today. I've got too much going on, the earliest I'll tear into it is probably next weekend.
 

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Tore into the repair this weekend. I drilled the crack, but didn't have anyone with a welder near me, so I braced it on both sides with as large of a piece that would sit flush with the firewall.

I did have a problem with full extension since I effectively removed .120 of travel. I didn't want to take it all out, so what I did was get some nylon bushings that matched the ID of the clutch pin. I basically moved the hole back .100 by elongating the hole and epoxied the nylon on the master side of the hole. The clutch pedal was sitting a little ahead of the brake pedal before modification, it's now "flush" with the other pedals. If this fails, I'll either go tick, or make the factory linkage adjustable by cutting it in half, threading it, and then getting a long "nut" (not sure what it's called).

She's shifting smooth again so far. I'll report back in a week or two.
 

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OK, I had an aircraft mechanic buddy install a patch plate on both the inside and outside of the firewall.

He stop-drilled the cracks, glued both plates to the firewall, and then riveted them both in place so everything is sandwiched together.

I'm still reassembling everything. As everyone knows, it's a huge pain to reinstall the booster, and right now I'm stuck trying to get the brake clevis seated back on the pedal pin.

It's been way too long, the car has been sitting for almost a year now :-O

(um, any advice on starting it after sitting for 10 months?)
 

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OK, everything under the dash is reassembled. A friend used some Kroil and an abrasive pad and got the clevis on about 10 minutes after he showed up. So much for my skills!

I pulled the sparkplugs and the fuel pump relay and cranked the motor for a few seconds to prime it.

Reinstalled the plugs, and it started right up, as though it hadn't been sitting at all. Sweet!
 

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so I know this thread has been dead for a little bit, but im concerned that I may be experiencing the same problem and just want to run the symptoms by y'all...if your still around. and sorry to bring a post back from the dead.

my pedal started making this intermittent click noise at the top of the pedal. but its only intermittent, not every time I release the clutch, I've actually sat in the driveway and pumped the clutch a bunched and would get nothing every now and then. I looked under the dash and didn't notice anything blatantly obvious except some play in the stud on the pedal and the "clevis of the master cylinder. I didn't take anything apart just yet but I ordered another pedal online (80$) I didn't even think of the clevis being aluminum and wearing out faster. And the clicking definitely feels like its in the pedal (so I hope). I drive barefoot and can feel the "click"

if I do have the the cracked firewall (fingers crossed that's not the deal) but would an acceptable fix be to just sandwich the firewall with a couple pieces or plate (saw it mentioned a little further back)?

and would this be something that I might be able to see with out taking everything apart??

im currently running a tick master cylinder with a stock clutch so it wouldn't be any heavier.

I bought the master cylinder recently, bout a year ago, and wonder if tick might have updated their design, since it has a huge backing plate that comes with the master cylinder. not sure if thats new or if y'all had the same thing as I have. I may have to contact them tomorrow.
 

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Not only did I have the cracked firewall but the pin on the clutch pedal that the clutch adjustment arm attaches to was loose. I removed the clutch pedal, took it to a machine shop and had a steel pin welded and drilled on the end so that I use a actual cotter pin instead of the unreliable c-clip.
 

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Not only did I have the cracked firewall but the pin on the clutch pedal that the clutch adjustment arm attaches to was loose. I removed the clutch pedal, took it to a machine shop and had a steel pin welded and drilled on the end so that I use a actual cotter pin instead of the unreliable c-clip.
I know you posted on my other thread about this issue. but I think when I get the new connecting arm im gonna take some measurements and see what I can do about a brass bushing or some sort or bearing
 

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if I do have the the cracked firewall (fingers crossed that's not the deal) but would an acceptable fix be to just sandwich the firewall with a couple pieces or plate (saw it mentioned a little further back)?

and would this be something that I might be able to see with out taking everything apart??

im currently running a tick master cylinder with a stock clutch so it wouldn't be any heavier.
If you've installed the Tick master, and you have a clicking sound, your firewall is probably cracked. Your pedal assembly is probably fine.

On my car the clicking continued for a long time, and the crack got big enough that the clutch pedal wouldn't come up high enough to enable cruise control (or disable CFCO so my redline was around 5500 rpm).

If you're running a stock clutch, or a GM clutch like the LS7, you don't need the Tick master.

That's not to say that the Tick is solely to blame for the crack. The firewall isn't thick enough. I imagine that when they converted the car to left-hand drive, the firewall somehow was overlooked.

The solution is what you mentioned: stop-drill the crack, glue some metal plate to each side of the firewall, then rivet it all together.

Good luck, and post pics!

Edit: It could also be this, but probably not: https://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34223
 

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Hey guys,

I know its an old thread but i thought this was worth mentioning...

I have a VZ Berlina Wagon (which is effectively the same as a GTO but obviously in RHD) with a factory L98 6L and a TR6060 manual gearbox. I have been running a heavy duty clutch with the factory master for a few years, but recently decided to switch to a tick master cylinder when putting in a braided line. Now the tick master cylinder didn't fit straight from the box, the aluminium adapter thing required a bit of grinding to get it to fit but got it in and working after a bit of effort.

Anyway all was well for about 10,000km but noticed the pedal was sitting lower, decided to adjust the connecting arm and noticed its actually cracked and pushed the firewall out by a good 15-20mm. I searched around on an Australian LS1 forum but i could only find one other case of the firewall being cracked....

Now the RHD firewall looks identical to the pics at the start of this thread, but no one over here runs the Tick master due to it not fitting (without modification). So not sure if its a coincidence but I'm like the only RHD vehicle running a tick master and my firewall is cracked within 10,000km, despite running the same heavy duty clutch for years with the factory master. (EG same pedal pressure/effort).

Anyway i just made up a stainless steel plate to sit on the inside (2.5mm thickness) and used some sicaflex 227 to "glue" it into place. I've still got to reinstall the master cylinder and pedal box (will do tomorrow) but hopefully that fixes it without having to drop the engine to get in and weld.

So yeah, but advised there is a possibility the cracked firewall is related to the tick master cylinder and not just because of a LHD firewall weakness...

Cheers,
 

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And I thought I was the only one! My VY Ute has the adjustable master cylinder fitted and yes it needed to be modified to fit. When I originally bought it the guys at Tick were saying that I was the first to fit the adjustable master cylinder to a RHD vehicle. I haven't noticed any cracks but i'll have a look later on. I have just ordered a lighter clutch as the combo of my Spec super twin clutch and Tick master cylinder is not doing my knee any good as it's a bit rubbish. I am thinking of putting the old master cylinder back on to go with the Monster LT1-S clutch set up.
 

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I have a VZ Berlina Wagon (which is effectively the same as a GTO but obviously in RHD) with a factory L98 6L and a TR6060 manual gearbox.
Just here to say that sounds like a sweet combination. Didn't know the late-build VZ wagons got that.
 
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